HUNGRY GERALD

Few things are more symbolic of the grim 1930’s depression years than HG’s Mom’s reliance on unidentified A & P cans whose labels had been washed off or torn off. (HG called them “mystery cans”). The A & P store manager displayed them in a big barrel–they were cheap–five cents or less for a can. The late beloved Ida Kopkind Freeman bought them for dessert. She thought contents like peaches, pears, pineapple or prunes could be determined by shaking a can near her ear. Surprisingly, she had a very good batting average and most family meals in The Bronx ended with a canned fruit dessert. However, sometimes Ida missed. A  can was opened and revealed lima beans or brussel sprouts or something equally unpleasant. These contents were served for dinner next night with boiled chicken or stewed meat (“gedempte fleisch”). Waste not. Want not. However, there were times when we ate, under protest, cold brussel sprouts for dessert. “Eat, eat. It’s a vegetable. It’s good for your health,” Ida insisted.

Last night, HG/BSK motored from HG/BSK’s north shore Prince Edward island oceanfront home to the south shore Ocean Mist Farm (40 minute shlep). This is the verdant farm/equestrian center that is home for BSK’s sister, Noel, and her husband, Yossi. Dinner was a fabulous feast. It started with glasses of Sauvignon Blanc  –dry vermouth with a splash of Angostura Bitters for HG. Noel’s lasagna followed–one of the best HG ever tasted. Meaty. Cheesy. Perfectly cooked pasta. HG had  two robust helpings with a splash of son Jeremy’s hot sauce and many glasses of a tasty red wine from an Ontario vineyard. Can’t get fresher than that green salad with lettuce plucked minutes before from Yossi’s garden . Dessert was stewed fruit topped with much vanilla ice cream–a meal that was pure joy from start to finish.

Oh, the days dwindle down to a precious few. (Walter Huston did the best vocal of this wistful song). Yes, HG/BSK are awaiting the arrival of Gifted Daughter, Lesley R. The helpful daughter will help close down HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home–an oceanfront paradise. If the fates are gentle (HG will be 95 in November), HG will return. In the fridge were preserved lemons, parsley, fresh lemons, zucchini, a red bell pepper,and two cauliflower florets. The pantry provided onions, couscous, garlic, stock, cumin,Aleppo pepper and ras el hanout (Moroccan spice mix).Defrosted chicken thighs were at hand. Waste not–Want not–is BSK’s guiding principle and the resulting supper was a fabulous Chicken Tagine. It was enlivened with spoonfuls of Harissa, (for some additional heat).  Another in a very lengthy list of BSK culinary triumphs.

Shakshuka, which was first created in Tunisia, is a popular breakfast dish throughout the troubled, violent Middle East. It is omnipresent in Israel where it is found in family kitchens, gas stations, diners, casual restaurants (Israeli and Arab). BSK makes Shakshuka with BSK’s usual flair. The ingredients are chopped red bell peppers, canned San Marano tomatoes, olive oil, feta cheese, garlic, onions, cumin, paprika, cayenne or hot chili powder, sea salt and black ground pepper. It is topped with BSK’s spectacular poached eggs.  Too spicy for breakfast but a perfect supper at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. Before tasting the Shakshuka (HG likes fiery spicy food) HG reached for  Harissa and Frank’s Hot Sauce. BSK warned, “Taste it first before you add anything.”. HG obliged. First spoonful–a sizzler–just the way HG likes it (Too much heat for ordinary folk). Garlic and lemon juice yogurt sauce, pita and Pinot Noir were welcome companions. HG’s mouth cooled with a dessert of vanilla ice cream.

Shawarma is a wonderful way to prepare chicken, lamb or beef. Though Shawarma is of middle eastern origin, it is now sold in restaurants and street vendors throughout Europe, Japan and the United States; in Mexico, Shawarma —introduced by Lebanese immigrants — evolved into the beloved “Al Pastor” taco. Traditionally, Shawarma is a vertically stacked, rotating “cone” of seasoned lamb, beef or chicken that is shaved to serve as it cooks against open flame or electric heat. Last night, BSK adapted Shawarma for the home kitchen – roasting deeply seasoned chicken in a sheet pan; and served it with leftover Fregola (Waste Not-Want Not.). A sensational supper. Here’s how BSK did it:  Slices of skinless/boneless chicken thigh went into a mix of olive oil, coriander, cumin, turmeric, Hungarian paprika and Spanish pimenton, salt, Aleppo pepper. When fully covered with the mix, chicken went on the sheet pan with wedges of red onion and roasted. When served,it was topped with a Greek yogurt sauce–the yogurt was flavored with olive oil and grated garlic (using a garlic press).  To add color, the dish was sprinkled with chopped parsley. (HG had some Harissa on the side). Hey, life is tasty –BSK does culinary magic every night–at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home.

Fregola is a delicious Sardinian pasta made from hard durum wheat–resembles Quinoa when cooked. Among its virtues is its ability to ingest sauces, BSK made a big bowl of it last night flavored with a lusty sofrito (stock, olive oil, onions, garlic, herbs etc.), BSK served it with chicken breast paillards (breasts hammered by BSK into thin slices). The breasts were sauteed with an abundant amount of olive oil, butter and lemon juice–this provided an excellent sauce. So, supper at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home was another BSK winner. Simple. Tasty. Healthy. Thanks, BSK.

BSK is Canadian born Anglo Saxon. Not Jewish. Ida Kopkind Freeman, HG’s late, beloved Mother, was a Jewish immigrant to the United States, born and raised in a Belorussian “shtetl”, spoke Yiddish and heavily accented English.  So, besides love for HG, what did these polar opposites have in common? A strong Waste Not–Want Not  philosophy. Never throw out leftovers. Save all foodstuffs. Living through “shetl” hardships, lower east side ramshackle tenements and The Great Depression–HG’s Mother’s food saving habits were understandable. BSK got food saving habits from BSK’s loving paternal grandmother. BSK”s paternal grandmother and grandfather were English immigrants to Canada and had known some impoverished years (grandfather was raised in a Barnardo orphanage–he enjoyed it because he got enough to eat.) BSK, who spent her early years in Canada, was very close to BSK’s grandmother and imprinted in BSK’s memory are grandmother’s food  habits. Last night, BSK made splendid use of leftover quinoa. It was refreshed with some stock, softly fried onions, garlic and peppers –plus flat leaf parsley, All was at hand in the fridge and pantry. This was topped with sauteed sliced sea scallops (bought a day ago). Another glorious BSK supper at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on green and serene Prince Edward Island.

HG is very fond of Quinoa, a crunchy, tasty grain. HG likes the way it sounds: KeenWah!! It is much healthier than rice and soaks up sauces with finesse. Last night, BSK bought two thick, fresh salmon filets at nearby (St. Peters) JuIio’s Fish Mart. Sadly, Juio’s closes on Sept.15. There will be oyster bargains on that last day so BSK will take advantage. Last night’s supper at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home, was –as usual–delicious and comforting. BSK cooked the salmon perfectly—medium rare silkiness. HG finds salmon tasteless if cooked beyond that point. It is always served medium rare in Paris. Some years ago, HG/BSK were in Paris with HG’s beloved sister Beulah Naomi Katz and her husband, Daniel (both deceased and much missed). Dining at Le Vaudeville Brasserie, Beulah ordered salmon in sorrel sauce. After a few swallows, she exclaimed: “This is the best thing I ever ate!!”. She had never eaten properly cooked salmon before. BSK accompanied last night’s PEI salmon with a big mound of quinoa mixed with chopped spinach and garlic. Cooked with stock; enhanced with hot sauce and olive oil; topped with sour cream— the quinoa was a regal dish which alone would be a tasty supper or lunch (with a glass of Pinot Noir). 

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Decades ago, HG/BSK dined at a very good Italian restaurant in the Manhattan theater district–Delsomma. Our companions were the late gifted musician/composer Michael Small and his wife, Lynn (still alive and beautiful and stylish as ever). It was Michael who introduced HG/BSK to the restaurant and the occasion was the premiere of the movie,” Marathon Man” with Dustin Hoffman and Lawrence Olivier–Michael composed the score. (Michael is very much missed by HG/BSK–a warm laughter filled friendship). It was at that dinner HG/BSK first tasted penne with broccoli sauce. It was so good that BSK replicated it for many happy suppers..(HG/BSK first met daughter Lesley’s future husband,Massimo Riva, at Delsomma. Penne with broccoli sauce was ordered. Massimo, an Italian gourmand, approved. HG/BSK knew then that daughter Lesley had met her true soul mate. HG/BSK were right–proved by L. & M. ‘s long happy marriage which has produced two glorious women (both in their twenties)–Arianna and Sofia. And, what did HG/BSK have for dinner last night?—Tortellini (instead of penne) with broccoli sauce. BSK scores again. BSK’s sauce even tops Delsomma’s.

 Excellent suppers continue at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. Last night it was HG’s favorite—corn chowder a la BSK. No milk or cream as is traditional. Instead, a zesty stock filled with seasonal sweet corn kernels, tender shrimp, garlic chopped potatoes and flat leaf parsley. BSK produced another culinary gem and HG had two hearty helpings (there was enough left over, happily) for lunch today.  While waiting for a new computer and the ability to continue hungrygerald.com–HG did not starve.  BSK made glorious fish dinners–salmon roasted medium rare accompanied by a butter stuffed sweet potato, a marriage that is one of HG faves, Other sparkling fresh fish from nearby Julio’s Fish Mart were steamed, poached or fried. BSK also bought sea scallops and sliced them for Korean Pancakes. Heavenly.