HUNGRY GERALD

BSK explored the fridge and discovered a winner—Wild Alaskan Salmon Roe (better known as “red caviar”). There was a small amount left over from Christmas Eve smoked fish extravaganza. Zabar’s, Russ & Daughters (both New York Jewish appetizing store stalwarts)  deliver this wonderful product. Priced at $37 a half pound, it is an affordable treat. Gifted daughter Lesley R. tops her beautiful little crepes with the caviar and adds a squeeze of creme fraiche for  a sublime taste. BSK treated HG to a lush supper last night—the caviar topped softly scrambled eggs with a yogurt side. HG drank steely cold white wine and was a very joyous old guy. 

“NUCH AH MUL”. That’s how you say “again” in Yiddish. And, nuch ah mul, HG is writing about BSK’s “Green Soup”. It is a wonderful soup—comforting, spicy, herbaceous, healthy. The perfect lunch and supper answer to wintry weather. Warms body and soul. BSK gathers all of the aged vegetables in the fridge. Cut into chunks, they are simmered in stock with a dash of olive oil, hot sauce and an abundance of spices and herbs. When soft, BSK applies the immersion blender to bring the melange to a smooth (but slightly chunky) texture. It’s a sublime treat topped with a dollop of sour cream dusted with Aleppo pepper. Happy HG had bowls for lunch and supper today (It is also served at Jeremy and Maiko Freeman’s FREEMAN SHOKUDO “izakaya” in Tokyo. Urban Japanese are fond of it.)

Yes, HG has written about Shakshuka before. It is omnipresent in kitchens, diners,cafes, restaurants throughout the Middle East. In Israel, customers can get excellent Shakshuka at gas stations and fast food locations. And now, one can eat Shakshuka in many American restaurants (excellent choice at breakfast or brunch). Best version is at Shuka–a Bowery Group restaurant  in downtown Manhattan (HG daughter Victoria Freeman is a partner).  BSK is an adept Shakshuka cook and HG enjoyed two big bowls last night at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. So, what is Shakshuka? It is a dish of poached eggs that top chunky vegetable and tomato sauce. Creative BSK adds onions, garlic, cumin and Harissa (for spicy heat). The melange is topped with an herbaceous yogurt sauce. Warmed pita and much Pinot Noir complete this lush supper. Comfort on a wintry night.

Risotto demands patience and time, Chopped onions and rice are gently stirred in olive oil. Cups of simmered stock are added. It’s a time consuming process because a cup of stock must be absorbed by the rice before another cup is added—and stirring with. a wooden spoon must be constant, It takes close to twenty minutes to achieve perfect  risotto—creamy but not mushy—slightly al dente. Restaurant risotto is not very good because necessary shortcuts—pre-cooking, etc.–are used. Patient BSK stirs parmesan and butter in the risotto and sometimes a chopped vegetable–zucchini, spinach, bok choy, leeks. Recently, BSK made a seafood risotto using fish stock and chopped fish. Fabulous!!  BSK. intends to cook it again using sliced sea scallops, HG looks forward to this pleasure.

Chicken soup (as prepared by Jewish mothers) is called “Jewish Penicillin” because of its restorative qualities. However, the ultimate chicken soup (BSK Penicillin) is prepared by HG’s glorious wife  (wed for 62 years)  Anglo/Canadian BSK.  Last night, BSK simmered chicken thighs and a host of chopped vegetables, herbs and spices to make a wondrous soup/stew .  BSK added ditalini pasta to round out the soup. It chased away all of HG’s chills and ailments.  (Only soup to equal it was one that healed BSK when dining in Rio de Janeiro years ago).       

BSK used to have an antipathy regarding coconut milk (and coconut cream). BSK thought the ingredient made sauces too sweet and cloaked the flavor of fish and other proteins. Happily, BSK has changed her mind. Now BSK enriches many sauces with this fabulous ingredient—good example is BSK’s  sole cooked on a sheet pan. The tender filets are placed atop a melange  of finely chopped vegetables and herbs—onions, garlic ,zucchini, spinach. They get mini splashes of olive oil and stock plus a generous amount of coconut milk (plus a dusting of cumin, aleppo pepper, paprika and sea salt). The sauce was fragrant and rich. The coconut gives the fish and veggies another dimension while retaining texture and flavors. BSK is now a coconut convert.

HG has always been fond of fish cakes. The affection began some 82 years ago in Rockaway Park (parents leased a spartan apartment there for the summer–close to the Atlantic and a crowded beach). HG worked as a stock loader (heavy work schlepping big boxes from trucks) at a Woolworth store. Lunch at the store counter: Fish cakes and tomato sauce spaghetti. Loved it. Best fish cakes ever were served (many, many years later ) at the Downy Flake cafe in Nantucket (HG/BSK had a summer home there for some years). They were served with egg sauce.  Spectacular!!  Most store bought fish cakes are inferior—not enough  fish in the mix. BSK and children, Lesley and Jeremy, make outstanding fish cakes. However, the fish cakes sold at Fearless Fish Seafood in Providence are quite good. They are made with Hake and the amount of fish in the cakes is generous. HG\BSK had them for supper last  night in HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft with an abundance of PEI mustard pickle. Pleasant meal.

Frightening gun assaults at Brown University and in Australia.  Fear and mourning cloud the usually happy Christmas/Hanukkah season. Before the dreadful events there was a family chicken curry feast at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. HG/BSK were joined by daughter Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo R., plus Noel M. and Yossi M (BSK’s sister and brother in law—stopping in Rhody on their way to Las Vegas). BSK augmented the curry with dal, naan, chutney and hot sauce. Fabulous meal. Lesley and Massimo were expected to be back on the following night for a repeat. However, tragedy struck and Massimo (a Brown Professor and official) hastened to the shooting. Lesley was off to her job as Communications Director of Brown Medical Group where she had to dispense information for many, many hours. Later, the Australian horror was reported.

Few things are better than Sunday dinner at the Riverside, RI, home of gifted daughter Lesley R, and her brilliant husband,  Massimo R., distinguished Professor and author. Lesley has numerous talents and skills (she has an important job as a communications director}. She is an excellent cook–?her pasta dishes are unsurpassed. Last night, Lesley made a lush dish of fusilli in  a tomato and sausage sauce. The tomato sauce was made by Lesley in Prince Edward Island (location of  F & R summer family home) in early September when local tomatoes were at their best. Wisely,  Lesley froze some jars of the good stuff and brought them back to Rhody. The happy family drank a tasty Beaujolais Nouveau with the wondrous fusilli pasta showered with freshly grated parmigiano. BSK recalled the days when the wine was inexpensive. Alas, no more. On the drive back to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft, HG remembered the funny New Yorker cartoon: Penne says on telephone “Hey, Fusilli,you crazy bastard, how are you doing?”

HG’s beloved sister (and BSK’s adored aunt) Beulah Naomi Freeman Katz, always served a soothing, pureed  butternut squash soup preceding the lavish Thanksgiving Day feast at the Katz home in Brookline, Mass. BSK serves the soup in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft when the weather turns chilly. BSK has made many changes in the original recipe—it’s now more spicy and served with a dollop of sour cream dusted with aleppo pepper. Lush warming comfort, Check the archive: Dec. 26, 2011 for the recipe.