HUNGRY GERALD

Gifted and thoughtful daughter, Lesley R., does many wonderful things with seasonal sweet corn. Yes, buttered and salted corn on the cob is a special treat. There’s more. Corn kernels are added to a variety of seafood, chicken and pork chowders and stews. Makes everything better. Lesley has promised her doddering Dad crispy corn fritters. Since they contain fiery jalapenos, they are not breakfast food but a worthy companion of numerous main dishes. HG always had them with Gage & Tollner illustrious mutton chops. Happily the wonderful downtown Brooklyn landmark restaurant has been tastefully restored and reopened. Reviewers say the food and wine are splendid (sauteed clam bellies, an HG/BSK favorite is on the menu). Prices are lofty. In the absence of fritters, Lesley has delighted HG with two scrumptious breakfasts of corn pancakes. Everybody joined in to savor stacks of fluffy pancakes gilded with butter and maple syrup. Lesley saved and refrigerated three pancakes. On the next breakfast morning, Lesley popped them in the microwave. Brought joy to HG (and HG has future fritters).

Pasta for dinner. And, it was spectacular. Lesley R. cut many kernels of sweet corn and mixed them with sliced sea scallops, diced zucchini, onions,cherry tomatoes, garlic, parsley, cilantro and other herbs plus spices. This was simmered in olive oil for a super sofrito that merged beautifully with linguini. HG drank some pleasant pinot noir and happily watched a sunset that sent shafts of color on HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. What made the pasta very special was Lesley’s attention to detail. Scallops are attached to their shells by a tough, inedible muscle. Lesley cut the muscles away and that gave the scallops additional succulence. There were still some ears of corn remaining. HG hopes Lesley will make her excellent corn fritters. In a pinch, HG will fry corn pancakes. Served with sour cream or gilded with maple syrup, these are a breakfast treat. Yes, seasonal sweet corn is a gift that keeps on giving.

As Etta James sang, “At Last.” Yes, at last sweet corn is ripe on Prince Edward Island and — with a dash of butter and salt — it is delicious. Up north in Canada, sweet corn is ready weeks after Americans are feasting on the seasonal delicacy. BSK was determined to find a farm stand selling just picked ears. A determined BSK is focused and relentless. BSK found a stand in an obscure location in the the town of Montague. Young man bagged two dozen and the feasting began tonight. Dinner was simple. Corn (super yummy). Steamed soft shell clams with melted butter and grit free clam broth. Roasted spatchcocked chicken (this was a gift from BSK’s sister, Noel M., and the free range bird was raised by Noel’s neighbor). Green salad. Cheese. Ice cream (and for HG, the usual French chestnut puree and whipped cream). Epic meal. HG warmed a cooked ear of corn in the microwave for a tasty lunch the next day.

HG has been enamored with Asian food since he was nine years old (yes, that was 83 years ago). HG’s late beloved sister, Beulah Naomi Katz, always was generous in providing little HG with sweet treats (Mr. Goodbar was a favorite). But, on HG’s ninth birthday, there was a special culinary adventure. Beulah and HG boarded the Third Avenue El at Fordham Road in The Bronx for a trip to Chatham Square in Chinatown (a long trip made exciting by peering into the tenements that lined Third Avenue). Don’t remember the restaurant but the meal remains fresh in HG’s memory. Starter of egg drop soup enhanced by a bit of soy sauce, Then, a huge bowl of chow mein (heavy on the corn starch). HG was cautioned about not adding much of the tongue burning (but tasty) Chinese mustard. Dessert was an almond cookie washed down with one of the endless cups of fragrant hot tea. HG was transported. The meal was the best HG had ever had. HG daydreamed about living in Chinatown and eating food like that every day. HG’s love affair with Chinese food remains passionate but HG’s tastes have expanded to encompass most of Asia. In New York, Vancouver, San Francisco, Los Angeles, London, Paris etc, HG has been immersed in the glories of the cuisines of Japan, Vietnam, Korea, Thailand, India, Malaysia, Ceylon, Indonesia and more. BSK and gifted daughter, Lesley R., are adroit cooks of Asian food. Last night. Lesley tickled taste buds with a Vietnamese starter and a Thai main dish. Starter was the Vietnamese staple:Salad rolls. Lesley moistened rice sheets, and before rolling them up, filled them with rice noodles and an array of fresh vegetables. Served them with a mix of fish sauce, hot sauce, vinegar, chopped herbs and chopped peanuts. Sublime dish. Main was Thai—a fragrant stew of ground pork, rice, coconut milk and an abundance of spices and herbs. Fabulous. The family champion of Asian food is son Jeremy. He and his wife, Maiko (a dazzling cook of Japanese food) live in Tokyo with their family and own and run Freeman Shokudo, an izakaya specializing in barbecue. Yes, there are Japanese dishes on the menu but the big favorite is pastrami, lovingly seasoned and smoked. Informed New Yorkers and Los Angelenos say it’s better than Manhattan Katz’s or L.A.’s Langer’s. Go figure.

Prince Edward Island has some of the world’s best oysters, steamer clams and mussels. Gifted daughter, Lesley R.; her distinguished husband, Profesore Massimo R., and BSK took advantage of the bivalve abundance by creating an extraordinary meal at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. First, there was a platter of chilled oysters (shucked with his usual expertise by Massimo). Then (after numerous cleansing rinses), BSK steamed soft shell clams into plump succulence. Dipped into melted butter (with lemon juice and a bit of hot sauce), they were a taste treat. The clam broth (not a particle of sand in it) was a bonus. Climax was “Sciscilli con cozze”. Lesley prepared this stupendous treat from “Ricette di Abruzzo e Molise”, a Slow Food Italian language cookbook. The base of this dish was balls of bread crumbs mixed with eggs, cheese,herbs, and spices. (the eggs served as an effective binder). Lesley steamed mussels in a soupy sofrito of tomatoes, onions, garlic, parsley, chorizo, olive oil and white wine. The bread crumb balls (HG thinks they’re called “sciscilli ” in Italian) were cooked in this sofrito. Mussels were removed from their shells and added (a few remained in their shells for decoration). Viva Italia!!! Viva Lesley!!!

Yotam Ottolenghi is one of HG/BSK’s favorite cookbook authors and NY Times recipe columnist. He came to fame with delicatessens in London and then escalating to restaurants. The Riva family (HG?BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley, son-in-law Massimo, granddaughters Arianna and Sofia) has dined there frequently during London visits and rave about the tasty Israeli/Middle Eastern cuisine. (They give the delicatessens very high marks for takeout food enjoyed before the hotel room or rented apartment TV). A BSK favorite cookbook is “Ottolenghi Simple”, BSK found an odd recipe there for fritters based on mashed peas. (HG mused: Was this like the sad “mushy” peas served in some British fish and chip eateries? NO is the answer). Frozen peas go into the food processor and are then mixed with zaatar, ricotta cheese, feta cheese, shredded fresh mint leaves, baking powder, flour, lemon zest ,eggs, salt and pepper. BSK formed the mix into fat cigar shapes and fried them in sizzling canola oil. Crisp. Greaseless. Unique and delicious flavor. Accompanied by harissa (piquant Moroccan hot sauce), lemon wedges and HG’s version of yogurt sauce (Greek yogurt enriched with olive oil, lemon juice, cumin and zaatar) this is savory eating. (Makes a lush sandwich when tucked into a pita pocket with the appropriate condiments or raw vegetables.)

Another delightful dinner cooked by gifted daughter, Lesley R. (BSK was the sous chef). Last night’s extravaganza was fish tacos. Lesley baked haddock filets in the oven on a sheet pan. The fish was then sliced and mixed with lime juice, scallions, cilantro and a bit of olive oil. Flour tortillas were steamed. On the table were an array of hot sauces, Lesley’s tasty, spicy sour cream sauce; lemon wedges. There was also a platter of chopped herbs, endive leaves, avocado, sliced radish. (HG added radish, avocado and sour cream sauce to HG’s fish portion). The fish and condiments were spooned into pieces of tortilla and then folded. This is Mexico City style and prevents juices from dripping on clothing. Accompanied by Prince Edward Island Gahan’s red ale, this was the best taco meal HG has ever had. Adding to the splendor of dinner, was an appetizer of oysters flawlessly shucked by HG/BSK’s distinguished son-in-law, Massimo R. Yes, it’s a good life at HG/BSK’s PEI oceanfront home.

Very hot day on Prince Edward Island. Later in the day window adjustments were made capturing comforting oceanfront breezes. But, dinner (when the air was sweltering) was a tasty response to heat. Meal began with cold and delicious Colville Bay oysters, expertly shucked by HG/BSK’s distinguished son in law, Massimo R. Then, his wife, HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R.,took over (with sous chef assistance from healthy BSK). The menu: Salmon mousse (scooped up with endive leaves). Sea scallop ceviche (a Lesley specialty). Newfoundland shrimp salad (another Lesley culinary gem). Bulgur rice and vegetable salad. Cold white wine was poured and the heat was beat. HG concluded with the usual dessert of French chestnut puree and squeeze can whipped cream accompanied by a glass of red wine. All in all, the ultimate warm weather dinner.

HG sighed a big sigh of relief. Beloved wife BSK tested negative for Covid. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., is making sure that BSK follows the right protocols including sufficient rest and sleep. Lesley and husband, Massimo, were invaluable during BSK’s difficult siege. So glad they were visiting HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home. What would handicapped HG and ill BSK have done without them? In addition to acting as doctor and nurse, they have done all the shopping, cooking, cleaning, etc. At the same time they were busy with their professional duties. HG did not suffer from culinary deprivation. Fish cakes (the best), chowders, salads, fried haddock, inventive pasta dishes, and more. Wonderful PEI and Quebec cheeses. Much red wine and Gahan’s Ale. Anxiety didn’t dull HG’s appetite.

Pre Covid. Dinner was Brandade and a PEI yellow bean salad (Seasonal yellow beans are a Prince Edward Island treat much enjoyed at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home.) Brandade (first tasted in a New York theater district French bistro of yesteryear), HG is fond of it–either plain and dusted with pepper and parmesan cheese–or in a gratin doused in heavy cream, topped with eggs and baked in a hot oven and browned under the broiler. BSK made the classic French Brandade from a recipe from Jaques Pepin (“Fast Food My Way” by JP). Brandade is usually made with salt cod (cooked after many rinses). BSK uses fresh cod from local seafood store and cooks it gently. This is mixed with garlic (much), olive oil. milk, fennel seeds. The mix made into a puree using a food processor. The result is tasty comfort. Leftover Brandade refrigerates without losing pungency and makes an excellent next day appetizer drizzled with a bit of olive oil (HG likes to top it with anchovies). Makes a wondrous breakfast when made into a pancake and gently browned. It’s the base for BSK’s matchless poached eggs. BSK was introduced to fresh cod Brandade by Marc Meyer, the renowned New York farm-to-table chef, when he visited PEI with wife, Victoria Freeman. (Vicki is HG’s daughter).Marc and Vicki are partners in The Bowery Group, which owns and runs five very good restaurants in downtown Manhattan –Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Rosie’s and Vic’s’). Fresh cod is a good idea. Saves time and lightens the Brandade without losing its garlic creaminess.