HUNGRY GERALD

HG is in Riverside,RI., at the the home of Lesley and Massimo R., HG/BSKs’ remarkable and gifted daughter and brilliant Edem (Yiddish for son-in-law). HG revels in their loving care, splendid cuisine and intellectual stimulation. Despite their company (and the presence of the R. dog, Pip. and, of course, Toby, The Wonder Dog) HG is a bit sad. That’s because BSK is in New Mexico organizing HG/BSK’s move to a spacious Providence loft. Lesley’s fabulous cuisine lifts HG’s spirits and tantalizes HG’s palate (Massimo’s enlightened wine choices enhance every dinner). Lesley takes full advantage of Tony’s Seafood, a sterling shop in Seekonk, MA. (town borders RI).  Tony’s provided the raw material for a joyous seafood dinner. First, there were oysters on the half shell (impeccably shucked by Massimo). This was a Saturday night dinner and Tony sells oysters at a low price before closing his doors on that night. As HG has written many times, HG loves Prince Edward Island oysters—Malpeques, South Bays, Colville Bays (HG/BSK’s PEI oceanfront home has survived, with slight damage, a ferocious hurricane.) Tony’s oysters, HG must admit, are as good or better than PEI’s The main dish was Tony’s swordfish with linguine (Lesley’s sofrito gave the dish zest). The star element was the swordfish, unusually juicy and flavorful. Best ever. HG mused that HG/BSK had for years been eating swordfish in the middle of the United States, many miles from the oceans where swordfish roam. Not surprising, mid-American swordfish was dry and tasteless. BSK’ s inventive sauces made it edible. Looks like HG/BSK’s move to Rhode Island (“The Ocean State”) will place the duo in seafood heaven.

Sad and lonely HG. Beloved BSK is in New Mexico handling the monumental task of organizing the move to Providence and HG/BSK’s fabulous (3,200 square feet) loft. HG (and Toby, The Wonder Dog) miss the life enhancing presence of BSK. Meanwhile, in Riverside, RI, HG and Toby are receiving loving treatment by HG/BSK’s gifted daughter,Lesley R., and son-in-law, brilliant Profesore Massimo R. Daughter Lesley knows her old Dad needs comforting dinners and, Oh Boy!!, does she provide. One night there was takeout from a good Vietnamese restaurant. Pho (with plentiful noodles, beef, chicken, etc.). Salad/shrimp/rice noodle wraps and fried sugar cane shrimp. HG gloom disappears. Next night was Shakshuka, the middle eastern dish of poached eggs on a bed of sauteed peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic and plentiful olive oil. Lesley served this supreme comfort food with a sauce of Greek yogurt and sumac. HG/BSK’s daughter knows how to chase the blues away.

This fiery melange of soft bean curd, ground pork, chili oil, bean sauce, etc., is HG’s favorite Chinese dish. HG always orders Mapo Tofu at Chinese restaurants and likes to spoon it over a bowl of rice noodles (in the absence of noodles, plain rice will suffice). Best Mapo Tofu ever was at Congee Noodle House on Broadway in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood of Vancouver, B.C. Fortunately, the Vancouver loft HG/BSK owned was a short walk from the restaurant. Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch heaven. Mapo,of course, but also: Congee, won tons, pork rice rolls, shrimp rice rolls. Many cups of hot tea as HG read the NY Times (sold at an adjacent shop). Daughter Lesley R. made an original version of Mapo for dinner using chunks of peeled eggplant and other unfamiliar ingredients. Very tasty. Yes, dining is happy in Riverside, RI, where HG/BSK reside until later this year when they move into their spacious loft in Central Falls, RI.

One of HG’s favorite New Yorker cartoons: A piece of Penne Rigate is on the phone saying: “Hey, Fusilli, you crazy bastard, how are you?”. Don’t know why but it makes HG smile every time HG dredges it from HG’s memory bank. Last night was a Fusilli festival at the Rhode Island home of HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R,, and her brilliant husband, Profesore Massimo R. (HG/BSK are living with them until the move from New Mexico is complete). Lesley cooked a rich and delicious pot of Fusilli in cauliflower sauce for dinner. The sauce was exemplary–generous quantities of olive oil, butter, garlic and herbs. It became picante with sprinkles of Aleppo pepper. With old age, HG’s stomach has shrunk and HG is no longer the super hearty trencherman (or “trencherperson”) of the past. Sometimes, generous Lesley forgets. She served HG a mountain–Everest proportions–of the lush Fusilli. HG did his best (it was so yummy) but could only finish a fraction. Didn’t go to waste. Had the rest for lunch the next day.

HG/BSK are safe and sound at the Riverside, RI, home of gifted daughter, Lesley R., and HG/BSK’s “Edem” (son in law in Yiddish), the brilliant Profesore Massimo R. Dinners are spectacular (Thanks, Lesley). Tonight, the starter was prosciutto with melon, figs, and tasty thin slices of Italian salami. Crusty bread, of course.The melon and figs were pure sweetness, the best HG ever ate. The Parma prosciutto was perfect. This was followed by a tomato-feta cheese -cucumber salad. The tomatoes (possibly last of season) rivaled New Jersey wonders. Main dish was a hearty corn chowder (the succulent corn is also the last of season). Then there was ripe brie accompanied by fig jam. Good white wine and red wine flowed. HG’s dessert was a small bowl of Talenti Salt Caramel ice cream. Yes, life is short and the end is unpleasant. So, in the meantime, let’s have a splendid meal.

HG/BSK are safe and sound in Riverside, RI, enjoying the loving company of gifted daughter Lesley R. and her husband, brilliant Profesore Massimo R. As expected, the food and wine at Chez R. are exceptional. (fresh shucked oysters, sweet corn, juicy sole, chicken thighs in a lusty sauce; orzo and very much more). PEI property survived the hurricane with only slight damage. Driving to Rhode Island was treacherous (heavy rains made visibility tough but BSK–as usual–displayed driving skills). Real estate news: Farewell, Land of Enchantment. HG/BSK have sold their New Mexico home (closing at the end of this month). HG/BSK have bought a 3,100 square foot loft in Providence (time to be close to family and friends) HG/BSK have always wanted to live in a loft and this one exceeds all of HG/BSK’s dreams. Drenched in sunlight. Sunset visibility. Great studio for BSK and a spacious office/library for HG. Helpful distinguished neighbor. The loft can accommodate all of HG/BSK’s furniture, art, books, and collections (especially BSK’s life enhancing pots and sculpture). BSK will be off to NM to supervise packing, shipping and more. Can’t believe HG/BSK good luck. Our new loft home would sell for millions in New York.

BSK cooked a big pot of chicken curry. Accompanied by warmed naan, fluffy rice, raita, two chutneys (one sweet and one hot), this provided two tasty dinners as HG/BSK prepared to leave their Prince Edward Island oceanfront home for Riverside, RI., and warm welcomes from gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Profesore Massimo. BSK’s fabulous chicken curry is a creative riff on the curry served at the home of Vikram Vij, the renowned Vancouver, BC, restaurateur and cookbook author. BSK’s curry sauce is very thick and sumptuous. HG could eliminate the chicken and slurp bowls of this wonderful stuff. The surprise of the meals was the radish-cucumber-Greek yogurt-lemon juice raita. Best ever (don’t know BSK’s secret but this raita enchanted vegetable hater HG).

BSK purchased two favorite Prince Edward Island summer favorites–Hake from Julio’s Seafood and Sweet Corn from Teddy’s farm stand. They were the basis for two tasty dinners at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. BSK cooked the hake on a sheet pan in the oven. The fish rested on sliced potatoes and chopped garlic. Lorts of herbs and spices plus olive oil and clam broth. This was accompanied by corn on the cob that received classic treatment. Boiled briefly. Butter and coarse sea salt. BSK (rightfully so) frowns upon getting fancy with corn on the cob–such as grilling, roasting and flavoring with outlandish condiments. Keep it simple. BSK saved a few cobs and the next night made crispy, piquant corn fritters to accompany the gently heated hake leftovers. There was a hint of sadness in the dining. The days dwindle down for fresh corn.. Have to wait till next year for this seasonal pleasure.

Not all of the recently harvested Prince Edward Island clams went into BSK’s supreme linguine with white clam sauce (a reprise of BSK’s Fire Island wonder). A handful were saved for BSK’s corn and clam “Chowda.”. Besides corn, clams, clam broth, ingredients included chopped onions and fennel, a sprinkling of chopped jalapenos, chili powder, milk and a host of herbs and spices. A tasty comforting dish, far better than super creamy (cloying) New England clam chowder or the tomato laden Manhattan version. HG lifted the dish’s pleasures by crumbling salt crackers into HG’s bowl plus dashes of a local hot sauce. After the satisfying “Chowda” dinner, HG was bemused. BSK does glorious things with seasonal sweet corn. However, BSK has promised HG corn fritters (onions and jalapenos in the batter). These crisp bits of heaven have not been forthcoming. (HG used to enjoy the corn fritters–version was invented by the late soulful chef Edna Lewis—that accompanied mutton chops at Gage & Tollner restaurant). BSK has not been making corn pancakes for breakfast. It is churlish of HG to complain since BSK cooks fabulous food daily and keeps old HG alive with her loving care. (Plus, BSK does household and financial management; house repairs and carpentry; bathing and grooming Toby, The Wonder Dog; daily laundry, gardening and chores and tasks too numerous to list). And, every now and then, BSK makes art.

When HG/BSK spent many happy years in their Fire Island dune house (magnificent Atlantic Ocean views), tasty hard shell clams were harvested from the Great South Bay (not polluted decades ago). Fire Island is a long barrier beach off Long Island between the Atlantic and Great South Bay. Using their educated toes, HG/BSK (and pals) would excavate dozens of clams. They were the raw material for many BSK feasts–cold raw clams on the half shell; Italian Clams Casino; classic linguine with white clam (and much garlic and chopped parsley) sauce. HG/BSK and friends would often gather on the rear deck of their home, eat Clams Casino, sip white wine and icy Martinis, and watch dramatic sunsets over the Bay. Happy times. There were echoes of Fire Island as BSK, friend Leslie F.; Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother-in-law) went clamming off a Prince Edward Island south shore bay. Scored many`juicy saline little necks (HG’s favorite size clam). BSK recreated her white clam sauce dish. Fabulous eating–and a dash of nostalgia.