HUNGRY GERALD

This past summer, BSK encountered a New York Times recipe that contained all the elements HG/BSK enjoy at dinner: “Salmon Soba Noodles With Ponzu-Scallion Broth.” These were the ingredients: Dashi broth, salmon, soba noodles, spinach, firm tofu, scallions, grated ginger, canola oil, sliced radishes, slivers of carrot, ponzu. BSK did a careful mix and followed the recipe meticulously. (Unusual for BSK who likes to deviate and add original touches. This time BSK only substituted spinach for the cabbage called for). It was a sensational dinner dish which BSK promised to repeat often. Drank an abundance of pinot noir (HG/BSK like red wine with fresh salmon; crisp white with smoked salmon, of course). Another joyous evening was had at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on peaceful, green, democratic Prince Edward Island.

Many, many years ago, youngster HG summer vacationed with HG’s family in a Rockaway Beach boarding house yards from the boardwalk, beach and Atlantic ocean. Every weekend, Armenian families would stake out a sandy space next to the boardwalk. The men dug a spacious ditch upon their early arrival and filled it with abundant charcoal. A seasoned lamb was skewered on a special metal apparatus and placed in the pit a modest distance over the charcoal. The charcoal was lit. Throughout the day, the roasting lamb was basted with a marinade and gently rotated (the roasting apparatus had a wheel to do the job). The sea air was filled with appetizing aromas. The Armenians had many plunges in the surf, picking their way through the bodies that jam packed the proletarian beach. The savory lamb was done in mid-afternoon. A dexterous fellow heaped sand on the charcoal to staunch its heat, and, skillfully filled platters with sliced lamb. Eating began. There were juicy sliced tomatoes, Romaine lettuce, an unusual middle eastern potato dish, and bread. There was a flagon of olive oil plus. many jugs of red wine. The meal was civilized–but filled with gusto and laughter. The Armenians set up folding tables and chairs. No plastic–real plates, glasses, silverware and cloth napkins. Young HG was a stealthy voyeur and observed all stages of the cooking and eating. High hopes of getting a taste of that roast lamb. No such luck. The Armenians were meticulous about cleaning up and packing. Much sand on the diminished charcoal. When they left the beach it looked and felt that they were never there. All of these thoughts came to HG last night. Lesley R.’s lovely friend, Diane, is of Armenian heritage and a skilled Armenian cook (Lesley is HG/BSK’s brilliant and thoughtful daughter. HG is living the good life in the Riverside, RI, home she shares with husband Massimo. Meanwhile BSK is in New Mexico preparing HG/BSK’s move to a Providence loft). Diane brought HG and Lesley a fabulous Armenian dinner of soup (Panjarbour),  pickled beets and semolina cake. Sublime and welcome meal. HG never tasted anything like the Panjarbour. It contained spinach, red lentils  and Armenian hulled wheat, unusual spices and herbs. The soup reached the pinnacle of comfort. HG has always enjoyed Armenian food. A favorite New York restaurant was Ed Berberian’s Balkan-Armenian Restaurant. It was located off Lexington Avenue in the East 20’s. HG ate there often (it was the second restaurant HG took BSK to during courtship more than half a century ago—the first was long closed Bo-Bo’s in Chinatown). With Rockaway memories in mind, HG always ate tasty lamb shish kebabs at Balkan-Armenian plus cheese borek (fabulous fried dumplings), rice pilaf, stuffed grape leaves, chopped eggplant, baklava, etc. Very, very good and very, very inexpensive. Despite a tragic history, Armenians can still enjoy life and bring joy–culinary and spiritual–to others.

West 47th Street (between Fifth Avenue and Avenue of the Americas) is The Diamond District. Very, Jewish. Scores and scores of dealers in diamonds and precious jewelry (Many Hasidim in their traditional garb—a midwestern female friend thought they were Amish). For some peculiar reason, it was the site of New York’s first sushi restaurant. Maybe the owners thought sushi was kosher. Daring HG was one of the first sushi customers. Hated the raw fish. Agreed with that TV character who said: “It might be good if they fried it up.”. HG gave it a second chance–after all, millions of sagacious Japanese can’t be wrong about a favorite dish. HG became a sushi addict (as did HG’s family). Sushi became HG’s favorite meal. HG concentrated on modest restaurants. Those $500-1,000 tastings are for oligarchs. HG is living in Riverside, RI, temporarily (BSK is still in New Mexico orchestrating the move to HG/BSK’s newly purchased Providence loft). HG receives loving care (and fabulous cuisine) from HG/BSK’s brilliant and gifted daughter, Lesley R. Today was a tough day for Lesley (she has an important job as communications director for one of Rhode Island’s largest health providers). Her office has been flooded so she’s been working at home juggling career and home responsibilities (including taking care of her infirm Dad). Today, Lesley dealt with professional emergencies; plumbers who removed a broken toilet; tree surgeons who gave her estimates for removing a dead tree; the delivery of a cord of firewood (and eventual stacking). She also fed and walked the dogs, Pip and Toby (talked to the vet who gave her bad news about darling Pip). Finally, she went to Home Depot, bought a toilet and managed to get it into her car). Whew!! Fortunately, a Japanese restaurant is nearby and Lesley brought home a sumptuous feast. Let’s hope tomorrow is a happier time for this glorious woman.`

One of life’s pleasures is listening to the late Dave Frishberg (accompanying himself on the piano) singing the witty songs he composed. Three HG favorites are “Van Lingle Mungo”, “My Attorney Bernie”, “I’m Hip.” He also wrote and sang “Do You Miss New York?” Urban and urbane Dave’s answer was: Yes. HG thought about missing New York. Not really. New York today is meant for oligarchs and the New York HG loved has changed. Of course, there are things HG misses. Here’s a partial list. Central Park. Chinatown. The Bronx’s Arthur Avenue. Pastrami. Museums. Russ & Daughters. Zabar’s. Pumpernickel bread, Jewish rye bread. Bialys. Grand Central Oyster Bar. Riverside Drive. Chrysler Building. Queens restaurants. HG daughter, Vicki Freeman and husband Marc Meyer’s Manhattan restaurants (Rosie’s, Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s). Empire State Building. Seagram Building. Sammy’s (gone);Jewish “dairy” restaurants (one or two remain); Citarella’s. Most of all HG misses those former Brooklynites–now in Tokyo–Son Jeremy; his wonderful wife, Exquisite Maiko; HG’s delightful grandkids, Haru and Teru. Facetime will have to do.

Many, many decades ago, BSK was a pesto pioneer. HG/BSK tasted it in Italy and were enthusiastic. At HG/BSK’s then home in Montclair, NJ, BSK would make many jars of the wonderful stuff. Olive oil, basil, garlic, pignolia nuts, parmesan (and a bit of Italian parsley) would go into the food processor (blended for only moments to retain texture). Presto!! Green heaven. BSK would coat thick slices of the wondrous Jersey tomatoes BSK cultivated in BSK’s vegetable garden with pesto (BSK also gew the super fresh basil). Spoonfuls of pesto adorned broiled, fried and steamed fish filets. Best use was pesto mixed with linguine or spaghetti accompanied by grated parmesan and hot pepper (the righteous companion was fruity red wine). Not everyone shared the HG/BSK’ family’s pesto delight. An SJ friend said when served a dish of pasta with pesto: “A-a–rgh!! Green spaghetti!!”—and refused to eat it. HG liked pasta pesto ringed by potato slices and broccoli. Tonight, in Riverside, RI, gifted daughter Lesley R. had an abundance of basil and made pesto before the herb aged. Exuberantly tasty. HG had a big bowl of linguine smothered in pesto. As usual, Lesley served HG (tummy has shrunk) a giant portion. Sprinkled with parmesan and chili powder, HG managed to eat 3/4ths. The rest will make a salubrious lunch for HG tomorrow. (Lesley’s version of pesto tonight was groundbreaking – arugula, olive oil, cashew nuts, goat cheese, basil, parmesan, garlic. Lush creativity).

No one could be more thoughtful and caring in catering to HG’s food needs than HG’s beloved daughter, the gifted Lesley R. Here’s an example. For dinner last night, Lesley warmed up a pot of her flavorful Japanese beef and squash stew. Because cancer surgery (thirty years ago) has constricted HG’s swallowing, Lesley adjusted HG’s steaming bowl of this comforting stew. HG has trouble swallowing meat so Lesley replaced the meat in HG’s bowl with slices of excellent semi-firm tofu (HG consumes this protein easily). A squirt of PEI hot sauce. Many glasses of red wine. Happy HG. This was followed by Bonne Maman chestnut puree topped with whipped cream. And, yes, more red wine. Thanks to Lesley, HG lives in a joyous comfort zone.

HG is having a glorious time at the Riverside, RI,home of gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her illustrious husband, Massimo R. (despite the absence of BSK who is expediting HG/BSK’s move to HG/BSK’s Providence loft.) . L. and M. take loving care of old HG, anticipating HG”s every need (and they are numerous). And, the cuisine. Ah, the cuisine!! Last night’s dinner is an example.Pre-dinner, M. constructed classic spritz cocktails. Then, an appetizer of smoked bluefish (from Tony’s Seafood) served with a super-spicy sauce of wasabi and sour cream (L. was generous with the wasabi). HG first tasted smoked bluefish in Nantucket and then sourced it at Whole Foods. Tony’s product is the best ever, in a class by itself. The Main dish was a Japanese stew of beef, ginger (much), butternut squash, garlic, mirin, dashi broth, lemon juice, Asian spices. Served over a bowl of rice, it was pure, savory comfort. (On this day, L. served HG a breakfast of mango yogurt and raspberries–lunch was L’s. delicious version of a bodega cheese and fried egg sandwich). Family!! HG is very lucky.

)

HG is in Riverside,RI., at the the home of Lesley and Massimo R., HG/BSKs’ remarkable and gifted daughter and brilliant Edem (Yiddish for son-in-law). HG revels in their loving care, splendid cuisine and intellectual stimulation. Despite their company (and the presence of the R. dog, Pip. and, of course, Toby, The Wonder Dog) HG is a bit sad. That’s because BSK is in New Mexico organizing HG/BSK’s move to a spacious Providence loft. Lesley’s fabulous cuisine lifts HG’s spirits and tantalizes HG’s palate (Massimo’s enlightened wine choices enhance every dinner). Lesley takes full advantage of Tony’s Seafood, a sterling shop in Seekonk, MA. (town borders RI).  Tony’s provided the raw material for a joyous seafood dinner. First, there were oysters on the half shell (impeccably shucked by Massimo). This was a Saturday night dinner and Tony sells oysters at a low price before closing his doors on that night. As HG has written many times, HG loves Prince Edward Island oysters—Malpeques, South Bays, Colville Bays (HG/BSK’s PEI oceanfront home has survived, with slight damage, a ferocious hurricane.) Tony’s oysters, HG must admit, are as good or better than PEI’s The main dish was Tony’s swordfish with linguine (Lesley’s sofrito gave the dish zest). The star element was the swordfish, unusually juicy and flavorful. Best ever. HG mused that HG/BSK had for years been eating swordfish in the middle of the United States, many miles from the oceans where swordfish roam. Not surprising, mid-American swordfish was dry and tasteless. BSK’ s inventive sauces made it edible. Looks like HG/BSK’s move to Rhode Island (“The Ocean State”) will place the duo in seafood heaven.

Sad and lonely HG. Beloved BSK is in New Mexico handling the monumental task of organizing the move to Providence and HG/BSK’s fabulous (3,200 square feet) loft. HG (and Toby, The Wonder Dog) miss the life enhancing presence of BSK. Meanwhile, in Riverside, RI, HG and Toby are receiving loving treatment by HG/BSK’s gifted daughter,Lesley R., and son-in-law, brilliant Profesore Massimo R. Daughter Lesley knows her old Dad needs comforting dinners and, Oh Boy!!, does she provide. One night there was takeout from a good Vietnamese restaurant. Pho (with plentiful noodles, beef, chicken, etc.). Salad/shrimp/rice noodle wraps and fried sugar cane shrimp. HG gloom disappears. Next night was Shakshuka, the middle eastern dish of poached eggs on a bed of sauteed peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic and plentiful olive oil. Lesley served this supreme comfort food with a sauce of Greek yogurt and sumac. HG/BSK’s daughter knows how to chase the blues away.

This fiery melange of soft bean curd, ground pork, chili oil, bean sauce, etc., is HG’s favorite Chinese dish. HG always orders Mapo Tofu at Chinese restaurants and likes to spoon it over a bowl of rice noodles (in the absence of noodles, plain rice will suffice). Best Mapo Tofu ever was at Congee Noodle House on Broadway in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood of Vancouver, B.C. Fortunately, the Vancouver loft HG/BSK owned was a short walk from the restaurant. Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch heaven. Mapo,of course, but also: Congee, won tons, pork rice rolls, shrimp rice rolls. Many cups of hot tea as HG read the NY Times (sold at an adjacent shop). Daughter Lesley R. made an original version of Mapo for dinner using chunks of peeled eggplant and other unfamiliar ingredients. Very tasty. Yes, dining is happy in Riverside, RI, where HG/BSK reside until later this year when they move into their spacious loft in Central Falls, RI.