HUNGRY GERALD

Italy didn’t make it to the World Cup and the USA men’s team was scuttled by the Netherlands. But, BSK did some exemplary culinary scoring. There was comfort galore for dinner (and leftover lunch). BSK is deft at cooking HG’s favorite Chinese dish: Mapo Tofu. This is always served with an abundance of Asian rice noodles (HG likes vermicelli). Eeks!! Horror!! No rice noodles in the pantry or thin Italian pasta. Nothing but orzo. So, BSK mixed orzo with the Mapo Tofu. Italy met China and the result was delicious. In addition, BSK made a family favorite: “Green Soup”. BSK cooks all of the aging refrigerated veggies in chicken (or vegetable broth) and adds a secret spice and herb mix. Purees the mix when cooked. The result is green in color and celestial in taste. SJ and wife, Maiko Sakamoto, serve it at Freeman Shokudo, their izakaya in Tokyo, It’s a big seller to Japanese customers during cold weather.

Years ago when HG/BSK lived in a Montclair, N.J. mansion, HG/BSK had a Colombian housekeeper named Lucy. When HG/BSK and family left for an evening out, Lucy would emit some heart wrenching sighs while murmuring “All alone…”. Well, HG was all alone last night. But, it was a
very happy time. A few “Spritzes” (cold white wine with a dash of Aperol). They sharpened HG’s appetite. First course was an Elena Ruz sandwich (on the menu in many Cuban restaurants). How to make it: Two slices of thin Pepperidge white bread. One slice covered in softened cream cheese topped with sliced turkey. Strawberry jam covering the turkey. Other bread slice on top to make a sandwich which is cut on the diagonal. Sounds strange. Try it. Delicious. Another course was reheated Marc Meyer Brandade. Sublime. HG drank more than a half bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau (good vintage this November). So—“All Alone” can be mighty pleasant.

HG/BSK are fond of scallops. Their combination of sweet and briny sea flavors is extraordinary. They are tasty raw. Gifted daughter Lesley R. makes a seviche of thin slices of sea scallops flavored with olive oil, lemon juice and a variety of fresh herbs. “Pass that bottle of chilled Muscadet, please !!”. This is a worthy rival of Nantucket Bay scallops. When HG/BSK summered on that isle, a neighbor (native of Nantucket) would scoop up a bucket from the Bay and HG/BSK ate these celestial morsels as fast as he could shuck them. Bliss. Alas the Nantucket season is short and they are rarely found at mainland fish stores. However, very tasty sea scallops are harvested off the shores of Rhode Island “The Ocean State” (where HG/BSK now happily reside). Tony’s Seafood in Providence is first rate. Son-in-law Profesore Massimo R. (brilliant and generous) brought HG/BSK a gift of scallops from there last night. BSK cooked them perfectly and served them with brothy Israeli couscous. These were the best juicy and flavorful sea scallops HG ever tasted (on a par with the excellent sea scallops HG’s son-in-law, the enlightened chef Marc Meyer, cooked for HG at Cookshop Restaurant in New York).

Maangchi, the Korean food authority, calls this dish “Cheese Buldak”. Because of its super spicy sauce, westerners have dubbed it “Fire Chicken”. It is one of HG/BSK’s favorite chicken thigh dishes and BSK is expert in cooking it to succulent perfection. Weather in Rhode Island is chilly but HG/BSK are snug and happy in their spacious Central Falls loft. Cheese Buldak was dinner last night, served with mounds of Basmati rice and generous pourings of red wine. Joyous eating. Here’s the recipe: Marinate skinless, boneless chicken thighs in a mix of Gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) and Gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes), brown sugar, peanut oil, water, soy sauce, garlic. Slice mozzarella. After marination, empty the chicken and marinade into a pan and cook at medium heat. When done, top with the mozzarella and slide under the broiler until the cheese melts. The cheese mellows the fiery spices but if you want more heat add some Sambal Oelek (HG’s favorite Asian hot sauce).

Family, fun, food and wine pleasures began on Thanksgiving Day. Crisp autumn day. Sunshine. Early afternoon there were cups of steaming squash soup enriched with dollops of sour cream. Pure comfort. This is a family Thanksgiving tradition started many years ago by HG’s beloved late sister, Beulah Naomi Freeman Katz. HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R.’s version had an underpinning of piquant spice. A nice touch. In attendance at the festivities were Lesley R. and Massimo R.’ s (Profesore M. is L.’s husband) beautiful and brilliant daughter Arianna R. (flew in from her home in Colorado). A guest was Coppelia, a distinguished academic colleague of Profesore R. So, this was a group that liked to eat (and drink). L. & R.’s Riverside RI home was the welcome venue. On to the feast: A big, burnished turkey with a juicy breast and flavorful thighs. Mashed potatoes. Stuffing. Cranberry sauce. String beans. Roasted fennel. Macaroni and cheese (created by Arianna). And–happy day!!–lots, lots, lots of sublime gravy. Massimo kept glasses full of outstanding red wines. (servers forgot a wonderful Moroccan cooked carrot salad–not to worry—saved it for the next day). Desserts included Coppellia’s apple tart and L.’s wondrous pumpkin cheesecake. At meal’s conclusion, the group’s collective tummies were close to happy bursting. The dinner was repeated the next night though HG limited himself to sliced turkey breast (afloat in gravy), mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and the forgotten Moroccan carrots. And, on Nov.26, HG’s daughter, Victoria Freeman, and her husband, Marc Meyer arrived in Rhody. V. and M. are in a partnership that owns and runs five successful New York restaurants–Cookshop, Shukette, Vic’s, Shuka and Rosie’s. Marc is a renowned chef, a pioneer in the farm-to-table movement. V. and M. drove to HG/BSK’s spacious loft in Central Falls,RI. As anticipated,they were astonished at the size, light, and huge windows of the loft. Even though the living room is still a bit of a jumble, we all were comfortable sitting there, chatting and catching up with family news as we sipped white wine. (in some months, V. and M. will become grandparents). Then off to L & M’s Riverside home for a seafood feast. Generous Victoria and Marc, as usual, did not come empty handed. Two big tins of caviar and a large baking dish of Marc’s brandade (more about the brandade in a moment). Meal began with a platter of chilled Rhode Island oysters (expertly shucked by Massimo and Marc). Then on to the caviar and accompaniments (wine was chilled Prosecco). Third course was Marc’s brandade. HG was ecstatic.. This is the best brandade in the world. Marc uses fresh cod rather than salt cod and browns the brandade under the broiler after making a decorative pattern on the top. A creative touch. HG would happily eat Marc’s lush dish every night of HG’s life. Last course was not an anti-climax (even though the brandade is a tough act to follow.) Lesley enriched her fish stew with an abundance of Rhody clams (best in the USA). So, the feasting finally ended. Early the next morning, V. and M. drove back to New York and their many responsibilities. A brief but glowing visit.

HG/BSK are very fond of Risotto. Italian magic makes the combination of arborio rice, sliced onion, olive oil, butter and boiling chicken (or vegetable) stock, one of the world’s most esteemed comfort foods. When done, abundant parmigiano is swirled into the dish. Risotto demands attention, Spoonfuls of hot stock are added to the rice. No more is added until the previous spoonful is absorbed.It takes time. Count on 20 to 30 minutes of stirring to achieve a pot of creamy but firm rice. HG never orders Risotto in a restaurant. To cut down on labor, short cuts are used which injure the integrity of the dish, The restaurant exception is Harry’s Bar in Venice. This is where HG first tasted Risotto many years ago. It was excellent then and remains so today. Don’t know their secret. HG/BSK often mix asparagus, spinach, zucchini or other vegetable in their Risotto. Last night, HG/BSK dined with daughter Lesley R. and her Husband, Massimo R. at their Riverside, RI. home. Lesley added an abundant amount of leeks to her Risotto. Never had a leek risotto before. It was fabulous.

HG/BSK are living in HG/BSK’s spacious Central Falls, RI. loft. Not fully unpacked yet and plumber, carpenter, electrician, handyman are on their way to do serious work. So, things are in a bit of a jumble. But, BSK is resourceful. Living room is arranged. The HG office is functional. Dining room is set. Most of the dishes are put away in a hutch and kitchen storage drawers. Kitchen is splendid. One night there were thick grilled swordfish steaks topped with anchovy butter. Accompaniments were garlicky baby spinach and boiled potatoes with sour cream. Splendid eating. The next night plump shrimp (from Tony’s Seafood–as was the swordfish) nestled in creamy chopped spinach grits and topped with perfect fried eggs. BSK has not lost the creativity and flair that mark BSK cuisine. Yums!! In BSK’s opinion, the best thing about the loft is the vast king size bed in the large bedroom. Super comfy. And, at last, the size enables BSK to have a full night of slumber.

The brand is “House Foods”. The product–Mabo Tofu Sauce–is made in Japan. HG was unaware of it but found it while surfing the internet. A fabulous product. HG heated the sauce. Filled the bowl with chunks of silken tofu. Poured a cup of Earl Grey tea. These were the ingredients of a warming, delightful lunch. HG chose a “Medium Hot” flavor. A good amount of heat but next time HG will try “Hot.” For a more abundant meal, add browned ground pork. And, for a very full tummy, add cooked rice noodles. As followers of HG know, the sauce highlights HG’s favorite Chinese restaurant dish of “Mapo Tofu.” Anyway, “Mapo” or the Japanese spelling, “Mabo”, it’s splendid–and makes a quick and easy meal that always satisfies.

The generous Russ & Daughters HG (93) birthday gift from Tokyo based son Jeremy and his family keeps on tickling HG’s taste buds. Tonight, BSK made HG a generous dish of softly scrambled eggs with R. & D. smoked salmon. Better than any of the egg and smoked fish dishes at Barney Greengrass, the great smoked fish emporium on Manhattan’s Upper West Side (it was the favorite breakfast venue for the late writer, Philip Roth (HG is chagrined that he never got a well deserved Nobel Prize for Literature). Cozy in Lesley and Massimo’s Riverside, RI home,the dinner good things kept coming. (Lesley R. is HG/BSK’s daughter and Profesore Massimo R. is Lesley’s husband). There was a spicy lentil salad and very flavorful chunks of pan roasted squash. HG/BSK spent the day at their new loft home unpacking (BSK did 99% of the work). BSK is unbelievable. Working non stop for many weeks (in New Mexico and Central Falls,RI, BSK has made the loft liveable. Hey, give Lesley R. some kudos. As expected, she’s been a great help.

Two nights of nostalgic culinary delights from New York’s venerable Russ & Daughters. This was the HG birthday gift from HG/BSK’s Tokyo based family (Son Jeremy; his wife, Maiko, and their children–son Haru, Daughter Teru). All the Noo Yawk treats were in the perfectly packed box: Nova Scotia smoked salmon. Sable. Herring in mustard sauce. Whitefish salad. Two tubs of cream cheese. Red salmon caviar. Bialys, bagels, rye bread. And a dessert treat–rugelach. First night was a smoked fish festival with gently warmed breadstuffs (warmed bialys covered with copious mounds of cream cheese were a special treat for Mr. 93). All was warm and cozy in the Riverside, RI. home of gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her brilliant husband, Profesore Massimo R. On the next night Lesley made superb blini. They were fabulous, covered in salmon caviar with a bit of chopped onion and sour cream. (They were also a delight topped with smoked salmon or sable). Black and Tans (cold beer mixed half and half with Guinness Stout) and white wine were drunk with gusto. Rugelach and red wine was part of the dessert parade. A zillion thanks, Tokyo guys (sad you weren’t here to join in the fressing fun).