HUNGRY GERALD

HG was very fond of the New York restaurants that catered to specific creative types: financial big shots, dreamy poets, etc.  Artists & Writers on W.41 St. was the place for journalists from the Times, Trib, Newsweek, Business Week (All nearby). They all played the “match game” (HG forgets the rules of this obscure bar game). Food was good. HG relished Koenigsberger Klops, meatballs in a dill sauce. The Russian Tea Room was for ballet impresarios, agents, producers, and classical musicians. The blini with red caviar, melted butter and sour cream was stupendous. Advertising executives (Madmen days) favored Christ Cella steak house in the East 40’s. HG joined them for the incomparable steaks (Best ever!!). Ad industry went to Michael’s bar in the East 50’s (As did HG) for after work oversized killer Martinis. Sardi’s in the theater district was for stage luminaries. HG often lunched on their fabulous lamb chops with kidneys. Actors and members of the chorus ate at two theater district restaurants founded by Joe Allen (1933-2019): Orso was Italian. Pappardelle in mushroom sauce was an HG favorite. The other restaurant, eponymous Joe Allen, featured hearty American dishes. Calf’s liver with onions and bacon and chile con carne were HG faves. Real estate titans met for lunch at a private club high up in the Lincoln Building/60 E. 42nd). The food wasn’t memorable. Tycoons of finance, publishing, and law ate at The Four Seasons, not at the scenic Pool Room (For tourists) but in a cluster of plain tables next to the bar. As expected, the food (And wine) were glorious. HG often had perfect fried smelts there.

Chowder (or “Chowda”–as it’s pronounced in New England, Prince Edward Island and Canada’s Maritime Provinces: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland and Labrador–is a hearty, comforting dinner in chilly weather. HG despises “New  England Clam Chowder.” Clams are buried under cream (or milk) plus too many potatoes. Often, flour (Feh!!) is added to thicken the chowder. The sea flavor is lost. On a trip to Nantucket many years ago, famished HG ordered the New England chowder (Only chowder on the menu). HG received a bowl of hot water thickened  with more than a cup of flour. A Few bits of rubbery clam topped the mess. One taste sent HG into a fury. HG threw the bowl on the floor and shouted: “This isn’t chowder!! This is shit!!” HG stormed out of the eatery leaving abashed BSK and HG/BSK’s kids to deal with the manager (and the table of offended nuns).  HG isn’t fond of Manhattan clam chowder–tastes like tomato soup burying clams. Warm day on PEI turned chilly. Time for Chowda. BSK made a fabulous Chowda using fresh haddock instead of clams. BSK fried thick cut bacon to a crisp. Removed it from the pan. Sauteed onion, garlic, fennel in olive oil at the bottom of a soup pot. Added boiling chicken stock (Fish stock wasn’t available. Didn’t matter). Lowered heat and added haddock filets. Before fish was done, added the crisp bacon and an abundance of chopped cilantro. A few cherry tomatoes for color. BSK scored again. Innovative, superlative fish Chowda.

HG/BSK were vacationing in Paris many years ago when HG/BSK observed much shouting, singing and happy, raucous wine drinking at Paris cafes and bistros. Curious, HG/BSK learned that it was a celebration of the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau, a very young, fruity red wine that can be drunk copiously (Tipsiness is a result). It is a good times drink and a favorite of moderate BSK and decidedly immoderate HG. Since that first taste years ago, HG has ordered cases when it reaches the USA.  It’s a nice accompaniment to any type of food (It should be served slightly chilled). It was the wine HG drank in New York during the 60’s, 70’s, 80′ at HG’s favorite lunch spot–the venerable Veau d’ Or restaurant located in the midtown east side. Meal started with an amuse gueule of cold mussels in a mustard sauce. Then, a pastry wrapped grilled sausage and potato salad (Hot mustard and vinegary cornichons). Main dish was sauteed calf brains in brown butter (First had this dish, a fave, when HG first tasted Beaujolais in a Paris bistro). No dessert.  The generous restaurant owner liked that HG ate with gusto and praised the cuisine. He kept filling HG’s glass with the wondrous Nouveau (Had at least six filled to the brim large wine glasses). Was charged for one glass. Those were the days. (HG managed to get back to the office for an afternoon of demanding work).

Julio’s Fish Mart in nearby St. Peters (Minutes from HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home) sells juicy fresh sea scallops, BSK bought a pound, enough for two delicious dinners. Dinner one: BSK made a risotto with Carnarolli rice. Instead of chicken broth, the rice was simmered in fish broth (A touch of the sea). When risotto was nearly done, BSK added pan sauteed asparagus and saffron (For a golden hue). This was topped with a 1/2 pound of scallops browned in olive oil, garlic and parsley. Yummarooney!! Next night BSK sauteed chopped red peppers,onions and garlic in olive oil and butter. This was swirled into a bowl of buttery orzo and topped with remaining 1/2 pound of browned scallops. Yummarooney 2!!

HG/BSK had HG/BSK’s principal residence in the southwestern United States for 37 years. (Summers in  Prince Edward Island and, before that, interludes in Vancouver, BC.). New Mexico and Colorado were delightful places in which to live–and eat. Scenic beauty and much sunshine. Food: Glorious lamb, elk, beefsteaks and peaches in Colorado.  Best Mexican and Tex-Mex food in New Mexico. (HG misses Menudo, the lusty tripe stew). The Santa Fe farmers market was a wonderland of fresh produce, roasting chiles, local cheeses and hand crafted bread. But, the landlocked southwest lacks one essential food: Fresh Seafood. Yes, Whole Foods did its best with seafood but transportation from the Pacific Ocean takes the zesty edge away from sea critters. As the years move along, HG/BSK focus more and more dinners on seafood (BSK creates taste wonders night after night). The seafood source on Prince Edward Island is the nearby Juilo’s Fish Market (Town of St. Peters). From the seas nearby there’s cod, halibut, haddock, hake, hard and soft shell clams; oysters. Sometimes there’s fresh caught  tuna (most tuna is flown to the Tokyo fish market). Two imports: Tasty farm raised salmon from Nova Scotia and delectable frozen tiny shrimp from Newfoundland (Perfect for salad). When HG/BSK are at the Central Falls, RI, loft, HG/BSK rely upon Tony’s Fish Store in nearby Providence. Rhody’s official name is “The Ocean State.” And, from Rhody’s oceanic waters, shoreline, rivers and lakes, Tony’s counters are filled with the best and freshest flounder, sole, oysters, squid and everything else seafood lovers like HG/BSK could desire. Oh. glorious geography!!!!

In a sheet pan glistening with olive oil, BSK placed an abundance of fresh haddock filets plus strips of roasted peppers and sliced sweet onions. Went into the oven for an appropriate time. Another BSK culinary triumph. In a separate pan, BSK sauteed thinly sliced potatoes.. Mustard mayonnaise, PEI hot sauce, Maldon sea salt on the table plus a bottle of BASK cabernet sauvignon. Negroni before dinner, French vanilla ice cream with a dash of maple syrup for dessert, snifter of Jack Daniels for a nightcap. Simple, traditional dining delights.

Grey skies at HG/BSK’s glorious oceanfront home on serene Prince Edward Island. No sunbeams. However, HG/BSK and Toby, The Wonder Dog, are joyous. (Toby can run in and out, something he can’t do in the Rhody loft). BSK is organizing the PEI home after a one year absence. (Making order out of chaos is a BSK virtue. And, it makes BSK happy). HG writes the HG blog and recounts HG’s many years on Storyworth, a unique Chrstmas gift. House is warm and cozy and the endless sea views are always stimulating. Of course, there’s food and wine. Liberte’ is a Canadian brand of Greek yogurt and is the best Greek yogurt in the Western Hemisphere–it’s thick, very flavorful. HG starts the day with a big bowl and adds fruit. Lunch is often congee (or scrambled eggs). Dinner tonight will feature shucked oysters and leftover hake/avgolemono soup. To complete the homage to the salty seas and shores, BSK steamed a few dozen fresh soft shell clams. Plump. Briny. Yums.!! And finally, there’s a good amount of carrot cake remaining for dessert. HG muses: Sun is not needed when BSK is in the room. Sunbeams of love.

HG/BSK and Toby, The Wonder Dog, are back in the wondrous Prince Edward Island oceanfront summer home. Weather is eccentric. A day of sunny warmth and—b-r-r-r-!!!–cold and rainy. However, a heat pump and wood stove make life cozy. It was a shock to see the damage the recent hurricane did to the Island trees. Trees were leveled or bent into distressing shapes, Forests were decimated. Many homes were damaged. HG/BSK were lucky. Miniscule damage to their property. Everything looks good and it is a pleasure to look at the sea after being landlocked (Except when looking at the Narragansett Bay from the Riverside, RI, home of gifted daughter Lesley R. and her distinguished husband, Massimo R.) . Hakes are caught locally and are the best in the world. Had filets fried when arriving at PEI yesterday and the fish starred at dinner tonight. BSK preceded the hake with a lobster salad.  BSK poached the hake in a Greek avgolemono and rice soup. Stupendous. Ultimate in briny, lemony comfort. BSK’s birthday is today (The love of HG’s life is growing up). BSK’s sister, Noel, and her husband, Yossi, are PEI homeowners  (On the South Shore) and they braved the rain today by bringing firewood to HG/BSK’s home. Plus–Hooray!!–a yummy carrot birthday cake for BSK. Dinner climax for HG was a wedge of the cake with vanilla ice cream. HG made a wish: “Have many, many, many, many more birthdays, darling BSK”.

It’s asparagus season in PEI! Asparagus is HG ‘s favorite vegetable (Broccoli and zucchini are contenders). BSK does wonderful things with asparagus. Tucks them into a “baveuse” omelet. Adds them to risotto. Stirs them into spaghetti with olive oil, garlic and lemon juice (A tasty sofrito). Cuts asparagus into sections for an Asian stir fry. HG’s favorite: Steamed to crunchy tenderness and doused with melted butter and lemon juice. That’s how BSK made them last night much to HG’s delight. They were accompanied by crisp fried haddock and sheet pan French fries. Remoulade sauce enhanced the fish. Life’s good in Canada’s smallest province–Prince Edward Island.

Grapefruit Bitters is a recent discovery. And, HG is in love with it. HG always has a Negroni before dinner (One part bourbon, one part sweet vermouth, one part Campari). These days, HG substitutes a generous sprinkle of Grapefrït Bitters for the Campari. Cuts the sweetness of the cocktail and gives it a bit of an acidic bite (Appetite enhancing). HG  also uses the bitters with dry vermouth on the rocks (A gentle cocktail). This doesn’t mean HG neglects other bitters. Peychaud Bitters with brandy. Orange Bitters with dry white wine. Angostura Bitters with club soda. Yes, Bitters are a key element in creating a pleasant drinking life.