HUNGRY GERALD

HG/BSK depend upon three condiments as flavor enhancers. Number one is mustard. HG/BSK think Maille French mustard is the best. BSK uses it in vinaigrettes and some stews and braises. HG thinks it’s a nice  companion for roast beef, roast chicken and French charcuterie (pates, rillettes,terrinês, etc.). Yellow American mustard (the color is from turmeric) is best for sandwiches and hot dogs. HG /BSK prefer Russian dressing on Jewish delicatessen pastrami, corned beef, tongue sandwiches. (also good on turkey and chicken sandwiches). Chinese food demands a super hot mustard HG uses fiery Russian mustard (buys it on Amazon). There are many rivals that challenge Heinz Ketchup. They  fail. Heinz is the undisputed champ. French fries, hamburgers, meat loaf are unthinkable without a heavy splash of Heinz. And, it’s the backbone of  Russian dressing. Sriracha. HG first encountered this picante wonder some years ago at Vietnamese restaurants. It was on every table flanked by vinegar and soy sauce. These days it is omnipresent in supermarkets and other  grocers; in every type of restaurant; in the arsenal of every chef. HG likes to add it to fish stews (mixed with mayonnaise its a riff on French rouille).

HG is pretending to be in Paris. Just like when HG has been seated in a Mom-and-Pop bistro, HG begins dinner with slices of Pate de Campagne (farmland pork and chicken livers) accompanied by Dijon mustard, cornichons and wine (white or red). The pate has a pleasing rough texture and a hearty taste. HG gets it online from  Aurelian Dufour (HG has a terrine of Pate Normand –pork,apples,onions– that have been sauteed in Port. The Normand is in the fridge.) There are two problems with these tasty pates. They arrive very cold and it takes two or three days sitting on HG/BSK’s bar to reach an edible temperature. BSK objects to this for health/spoilage concerns. Tonight, HG will heat them for 30 seconds in the microwave unit and see how it works out. HG does not want to eat pate ice cream. The other problem with Dufour is while the pates are relatively inexpensive, shipping is quite pricey. So, be judicious when ordering Dufour’s treats.

Minor mystery solved: The Yiddish for son-in-law is “Edim.”  Massimo Riva is an extraordinary Edim and HG/BSK love him. He has been married for many years to HG/BSK’s daughter, Lesley, and she loves him as do their daughters Arianna and Sofia.  Massimo (also known as “Max”) is warm hearted, tactful and has exquisite manners. Max is a tall man with Italian good looks.  He is an athlete, winner of many tennis tournaments in Italy (during younger years) and still plays now(and wins). Max is a tenured professor at Brown University–head of the Italian Studies Department and the author of many books on Italian art and literature. He has been recognized by the Italian government as a contributor to Italy’ s culture. He has been a pioneer in bringing the culture into the internet. Moreover, Max is not an austere intellectual –he likes to eat well and is a whiz at selecting Italian wines to complement meals (HG has sipped wonders at Max and Lesley’s home). Max is thoughtful and generous.  An example: Family dinner at HG/BSK’s loft. Max brought HG a gift of 13 lush and briny oysters and shucked them perfectly. Okay? You can agree that in the lottery of Edims, HG won the very best. 

Saturday (Feb. 10 and Sunday (Feb. 11) comprised the best weekend HG ever experienced. Saturday evening, nephew Jonathan K. and wife, Barbara, joined HG/BSK (plus HG/BSK daughter, Lesley R and Lesley’s husband, Professor Massimo  R.) for dinner at the Central Falls loft. Jonathan and Barbara reside in magnificent homes in the Boston area and Cape Cod so leaving these mansions for a trip to gritty, industrial Central Falls is an effort. HG/BSK haven’t seen Jon and B. for many years. Time has been very kind to them. They are athletically trim and Barbara remains beautiful and stylish. They didn’t come empty handed. Barbara brought a lush lemon meringue piê and almond shortbread cookies (fabulous pie and cookies created by her). Jon brought  bay scallops (these succulent wonders came from Nantucket Bay, HG presumes). Best of all, he gave HG the 1943 graduation photograph (large) of P. S. 86, The Bronx.  HG is very recognizable. (it had been in the possession of HG’s beloved late sister, Beulah Naomi Katz). Jon and Barbara also brought photos of  cute 2-year old Lesley R. and a bag of Beulah’s costume jewelry. Dinner was BSK’s Moroccan chicken tagine served on a bed of fluffy couscous. It was so tangy (dotted with harissa) that everyone had two big helpings. Sunday was Super Bowl time. BSK made a big pot of BSK’s  inimitable chili. There were toppings of chopped onions, avocado, grated cheddar–plus a stack of corn tortillas. Lesley and Massimo joined  HG/BSK in front of the living room TV and dined on the chili. Many plate refills accompanied by Black and Tans (thoughtful Massimo brought Guinness Stout). First half of the game featured strong defenses, fumbles and a sub-par Patrick Mahomes for the Chiefs. The 49’ers led 10-3. Second half started with a Mahomes fumble. Looked like San Fran was on the way to win. (HG, however, felt the Mahomes/Kelce magic would become assertive.) Second half was pure excitement  with touchdowns and record breaking field goals. The teams were tied and went into overtime. San Fran had first possession and scored a field goal. That meant Kansas City would have to score a field goal to stay in the game. A touchdown would give them the win. HG thinks Mahomes is great under pressure–he can beat you with his arm or his feet. HG was serene–fully confident in Mahomes. He marched his team down the field to goal line territory. The 49’ers had their focus on Kelce, allowing Mahomes to toss an easy Super Bowl winning pass to Hardman. A very exciting game. HG celebrated with more lush pie and a snifter of elderberry liqueur.

HG/BSK were in Barcelona during a Spanish visit and sought a reprieve from Gaudi and the other gifted architects who made the buildings of the city a visual delight. HG/BSK found an elegant, small bar/cafe and happily sipped chilled dry sherry. HG/BSK were seated close to two fashionable women. They were eating, with gusto, what appeared to be a fish stew. The waiter was informative. They were eating fresh cod, sliced potatoes and onions in a seafood stock enhanced by herbs and a judicious pinch of cayenne. The women left and HG/BSK ordered the dish–ate and enjoyed it. BSK, a talented cook, makes the cod dish at home (much happiness for HG). BSK’s version is more “picante” than Barcelona’s.  BSK cooked it last night for dinner and was accompanied by a hearty Australian Malbec. Joy.

HG/BSK fell in love with the great Spanish city–Madrid–on a visit a few years ago. The city is steeped in history reflecting everything from imperial rule, the banishing of Jews and Moors, the bloody civil war before World War Two. And more, much more. Two museums of art–the Prado and  Reina Sofia–are startling, treasure houses of sublime paintings. The Prado contains the work of the very important artists of the last centuries–Velasquez, Goya, El Greco, Rubens–among them. Reina Sofia is a museum of modern art with wonderful works by Miro, Magritte,  Dali and Picasso. One room houses Picasso’s “Guernica”, his searing indictment of Nazi bombing of a Spanish village during Spain’s civil war. Yes, the painting remains relevant during the present days of horror. HG/BSK ate well in the majestic city: Paella. Magnificent thin slices of Iberian ham (better than Prosciutto);  Shrimp in garlic sauce; Octopus (prepared in many savory ways); Sauteed hake. Drank the best sangria (not too sweet). Lovely memories.

BSK cooked a creative version of Greek Moussaka last night—-a wow of a doubleheader. Traditionally, Moussaka is a Greek version of England’s “Shepherd Pie”. Lamb substitutes for beef and a yogurt based topping replaces mashed potatoes. HG prefers  BSK’s Moussaka, a riff on Yotam Ottolenghi’s  Lamb, eggplant  and yogurt casserole. The addition of eggplant is inspired. BSK cooked ground lamb and cubed eggplant in olive oil, chicken broth, canned plum tomatoes, tomato paste, garlic, onion, chopped parsley and a host of spices plus red pepper. It went into the oven –heated to a high temperature–and cooked until all was soft, rich and spicy. When done, it was topped with a mix of Greek yogurt, egg yolks, flour, chopped garlic and pine nuts. It all went back in the oven until the topping was bubbling. Spectacular eating. BSK hits another home run and HG/BSK will have the nightcap tomorrow. Hooray!!!

Yes, it started with BSK’s crisp and juicy spatchcocked chicken. HG was super pleased with the brown skin and juicy thigh. Generous BSK carved for HG a special taste treat: The wings. There was some breast leftover so BSK used her Asian cooking skills to make a steaming and comforting pot  of Pho, the admirable Vietnamese pot of broth, rice noodles, chicken and a melange of vegetables. Maybe not up to Saigon standards, but loved by HG. The one chicken BSK started with (a chunk of breast was leftover from the Pho) was used for dinner three: Chicken curry. In HG /BSK’s early years of marriage, BSK made it from a recipe published by the late Michael Field. It was creamy but lacked a robust flavor. This was solved by adding toppings of salted peanuts and crisp bacon. Last night’s curry was inspired by recipes from Vij, the famous Vancouver, B.C.restaurateur and chef. BSK added much fresh okra to BSK’s curry. This gave the curry needed crunch and flavor. Stupendous dinner. And, that was the end of the bird–just a few bones left.

Cold Sunday in Rhode Island. However, HG was warm and snug in HG/BSK’s sumptuous Central Falls loft. And, a special treat–some six or morehours of  TV football (49’ers vs. Lions; Ravens vs. Chiefs). Winners go to the Superbowl on Feb. 11. 49er’s were behind 17 points at half time but won in a comeback. The Chiefs won with a great Mahomes performance and a crucial goal line Ravens fumble. During the Chiefs game, HG nibbled cashews and drank a pleasant chilled white wine from Italy’s Friuli Region. HG switched to a Pinot Noir for the next game and ate BSK’s tasty ratatouille with slices of a top flight baguette. During the last stages of the San Francisco comeback, HG had a dessert of vanilla ice cream topped with a splash of maple syrup. A snifter of elderberry liqueur followed. A very happy day.  

BSK is an expert at cutting the backbone out of a chicken. The result is a “spatchcocked” chicken–colorful name for a relatively simple bit of knifework.  A spatchcocked chicken lies flat in a pan and can be cooked in the oven or in a cast iron pan. It results in much crispy skin and juicy legs, thighs, wings, etc.  BSK cooked the bird two nights ago and then carved the bird and swirled the pungent juices over the slices.    Softly fried potatoes and garlicky spinach accompaniêd. A California Merlot tasted just right to drink with this lovely dish. Much of the breast was left over so resourceful BSK made a Vietnamese Pho the next night. BSK used some Pho broth from the pantry and boosted it with a spice and herb mixture.  Onions, celery, bok choy, spinach, garlic went into the pot with an abundance of rice noodles (they were cooked separately). HG topped HG’s steaming bowl with splashes of sesame oil and sriracha. Perfect cold weather food.