HUNGRY GERALD

HG spotted a Melissa Clark (NY Times) recipe that seemed interesting for a wintry dinner—a soup/stew of cannellini beans, garbanzo beans, chicken stock, canned San Marzano tomatoes, and much garlic. HG tried to cook it but sous chef BSK took over midway. BSK served big bowls of the  mix and dusted them with parmesan and Spanish pimenton. Looked great. Alas. Because of throat problems caused by cancer surgery 32 years ago, the dish caused HG to choke and cough. Inedible. BSK eased HG’s hunger with Fearless Fish Market whipped cream cheese on lightly toasted potato bread.(Old guy ate every slice without distress). HG suggested that the tomato/bean dish be thrown out. BSK grew up with a “Waste Not” philosophy. BSK added chicken stock to the mix,and using the immersion blender created a silky, smooth, spicy soup. HG had three big hot bowls of the soup for lunch today without mishap. Warmed body and spirits. Thanks, wonderful, thrifty BSK.

Sammy’s Roumanian, where schmaltz (chicken fat) gilded everything from steaks to chopped liver and  eggplant salad, was HG’s favorite New York restaurant. There was an abundance of garlic enhancing the food and ice enclosed bottles of vodka on every table  (plus pitchers of schmaltz). Located on the Lower East Side,(Corner of Delancey and Christie), Pete Wells (NY Times) called it “the most wonderful terrible restaurant in New  York.”.  It was in your face Jewish. Loud,raucous, drunken. Jews danced between courses to Yiddish tunes from a piano player.   As Wells put it in a 2014 review: “Sammy’s is a permanent underground bar mitzvah where Gentîles can act like Jews and Jews can act like themselves.”  BSK went once and hated it. HG went often with SJ, the late beloved Adam Schlesinger, and male frênds and business colleagues.     Sammy’s closed three years ago. HG was tearful as a part of HG ‘s New York disappeared. HG is 94.  What’s left of the city’s old time culinary Jewishness? Some dairy restaurants, an eatery in the jewelry district –and stalwarts Katz’s, Zabar’s, Barney Greengrass, Russ &  Daughters, Murray’s. And, at 94, HG can’t last forever…But wait!!!  It was recently reported that Sammy’s will live again! Sammy’s owners have leased space on Stanton Street in the Lower East Side and promise an unchanged schmaltz heaven, frozen vodka fresser paradise. It will open soon. HG hopes to,be alive to eat, drink and exaggerate his inherent Jewishness.                                                                                      

Sun poured into Lesley R.’s Riverside, RI, home (her husband, Massimo, is in Paris lecturing and attending to scholarly duties–returns to Rhody tomorrow night). So, HG/BSK were gifted daughter’s early dinner guests. While food was prepared HG drank a sweet and dry vermouth/ grapefruit bitters cocktail while watching the sun send shafts of light over the expansive water views. HG sipped a glass of white wine while enjoying the appetizer of deviled eggs topped with Tobiko and Trout Roe. Fabulous bow to Easter. HG sipped red wine with Lesley’s extraordinary asparagus and leek risotto. Lesley purees the cooked asparagus stems and leek leaves before adding these ingredients to the rice (Asparagus tips adorn the top of the risotto). Nice touch. HG finished a last glass of red wine with a dessert of handmade pieces of dark chocolate enclosing creamy peanut butter. Another delightful meal Chez Lesley R.

BSK created two nights of happy dinners with one night of cooking and simmering. This was one of HG’s all time favorites—Escarole soup with cannellini beans (first experienced at Frankies Spuntino Restaurant in Brooklyn). BSK sauteed chopped carrots, onion, garlic and celery in olive oil (plus a later removed bay leaf). When softened, added chicken broth, pancetta and cannellini beans (Goya’s canned beans are the best). When it came to a boil, BSK turned the heat down and added chopped escarole (it was chopped to make the leafy vegetable easy to swallow) and simmered until soft. Steaming bowls got a dusting of parmesan, salt and pepper, and a dash of olive oil. (heaven in a bowl). For some reason, it is hard to find escarole in supermarkets. When HG/BSK lived in New Mexico, next door neighbor was Gary Gundersen, best organic farmer in New Mexico. Gary always grew a big crop of escarole (among many other greens). HG would walk to the nearby fence line and pick up a fresh from the soil head of escarole. Yum!!

Yotam Ottolenghi, the Israeli/English chef/restaurateur/grocer/cookbook author (and occasional NY \Times columnist) is the source of wonderful Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Israeli, Palestinian dishes. His recipes never disappoint HG/BSK. Last night, BSK cooked his variation of Greek “Moussaka”—“Eggplant,Lamb and Yogurt Casserole”. It was one of the best things HG ever ate–many layers of flavors. Meaty. Spicy. Creamy. Piquant. (Find the recipe on  NYT Cooking). HG began HG’s job as sous chef under BSK’s command. HG cut many, many thin slices of garlic.  Peeled and cut cubes of eggplant. HG received a tongue lashing from chef BSK –HG’S eggplant wasn’t cut in uniform one inch forms. (BSK’s demands are similar to those of  the late Henri Soule, the martinet owner and cuisine boss of New York’s Le Pavillon–long closed–for decades the best restaurant in the city). HG promises to do better and escape BSK wrath.

When HG was a young, heavy drinking journalist, HG ate many meals at Irish bars. Before being replaced by office towers, tall apartment houses and fashionable retailers, Third Avenue was speckled with Irish bars. Among HG’s favorites was Murphy’s (northeast corner of 45th and Third) a good place for an austere ham sandwich and mix of draft beer and Guiness Stout (Black and Tan ). Some yards west of Murphy’s was Mirror Bar. The Daily Mirror newspaper was housed in the building  (as well as International News Service, International]  News Photos, King Features and other Hearst enterprises–HG  had his office there, racing between INS, INP and television news services. Mirror Bar was rough and ready and drunken. Cuisine enjoyed by HG was hard boiled eggs and pickled pig’s knuckles. PJ Clark’s was a few blocks north on Third. It wasn’t fashionable though it had old time decor. HG enjoyed their cheap and juicy burgers. McSorley’s Old  Ale House on E. 7th  (just off Third) was the oldest bar in New York and is still thriving. In HG’s day it didn’t serve women (Supreme Court changed that in the early 70’s). Ale was (and is) splendid and  cuisine was limited–cheese, sliced onions, stale bread. Now it has an extensive menu as it attracts crowds of tourists. The ultimate bar room dish was pot roast in lush gravy from a long closed place (name forgotten on E.23rd (??). Ah, that gravy!! Cost was a dollar. Big favorite of the NYC police.

Okra is HG’s favorite vegetable (other winners are broccoli, zucchini, cauliflower–thumbs down on kale, chard, iceberg lettuce, kohlrabi). Fried okra is a tasty appetizer at many Indian restaurants–as is the Indian variation of fried onions). Originally brought in from Africa during the slave trade, okra is omnipresent in the American south–fried, stewed, mixed with corn and collard greens, etc. New Orleans is the capital of okra.  It is found in gumbo, jambalaya and a host of other Creole and Cajun dishes (HG loves them all). Many people despise okra. They label it “slimy”. BSK is a dab hand with okra. BSK only buys fresh green okra. When cooked in BSK’s many riffs on gumbo, it has a firm great mouth feel and adds irreplaceable flavors. Pass the Frank’s Hot Sauce!!!

Yes, wonderful BSK is back from Italy and HG is beyond joyful to have BSK safe and sound in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Wearing a white shirt covered by a Benetton sweater picturing a delightful large black rabbit, BSK was tres chic (No woman has more style than BSK). The Benetton clothing chain has always been a shopping resource for HG/BSK in HG/BSK’s decades of visits to Italy (This time BSK scored a turquoise wool turtleneck for HG). BSK said that BSK’s ten days in the glorious city of Padua (Located in the Veneto region and fairly close to Venice) were filled with art, magnificent architecture gazing, splendid food (Lots of fresh fish). BSK’s informed guide was HG/BSK’s brilliant and beautiful granddaughter,Sofia R. (She’s doing graduate work at the city’s renowned university.)  A highlight of Padua is the art of Giotto. However the churches, public buildings,etc., have walls covered with breathtaking frescoes and adorned with riveting sculpture. After dinner tonight (Linguine with sardine and fennel sauce) BSK showed HG more than a score of Padua photos from BSK’s I-Phone. Wow!! So glad BSK is back as HG’s bed mate.  Once more, the room is graced by BSK’s ambience and fragrance.

After tea and almond cookies, HG thought gifted daughter, Lesley R., and HG would be heading back to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft, for dinner. Nope. Lesley decided to cook dinner at her and husband Massimo’s Riverside, RI, waterview home (17 minute drive from Central Falls). And, what a dinner it was!! Started with aperitifs of Pinot Grigio spritzes. This was followed by steaming bowls of penne in broccoli sauce. This is a BSK specialty. Have to admit: Lesley’s version is as good as her Mom’s (BSK is having an art-filled vacation in the charming Italian city of Padua and might take issue with HG’s culinary assertion). Professore Massimo was in charge of the latter part of the meal–a cheese platter of state of the art gorgonzola, truffle cheese, parmesan,  Companion was a Massimo selected bottle of red wine. Rhody epicures.

Distinguished Professor Massimo Riva had professional duties today so Lesley (his wife and HG/BSK’s gifted daughter) drove HG from HG/BSK’s Central Falls RI, loft to the Rivas’ water view home in nearby Riverside.  Toby, The Wonder Dog, and Pip, the Gentle Genius lady dog, were overjoyed to see Lesley and HG. Warm and sunny day so there was cozy facial sunbathing on the deck. Lesley fed HG a lush lunch—spicy pureed squash curry soup topped with a scoop of sour cream. Lush and warming. When the Professor came home in the afternoon, he, Lesley and HG had a civilized cuppa tea with almond cookies.Seated in a comfortable rocker, HG read Cormac McCarthy’s “All The Pretty Horses.” Yes, much loved BSK has been missed as BSK is being drenched with art,architecture and Veneto cuisine in the charming Italian city of Padua (Close to Venice). However, Lesley and Massimo  are bringing daily joy to  HG. Famiglia!!!