HUNGRY GERALD

The Uyghurs are a Muslim, Turkic speaking ethnic group. Some 11,000,000 live in Xinjiang, China’s most western province. Their culture has been heavily influenced by their proximity to the Middle East. Their cuisine is robust relying on lamb, noodles (hand pulled), yogurt and vegetable stews. There is a Uyghur restaurant in Providence–Jahunger on Wickenden Street. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., and brilliant son-in-law Massimo brought a lavish dinner from there for a feast at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Some of the ingredients: Two types of hand pulled noodles (best ever) with gravy and lamb, peppers, vegetable stew and more, much more. HG/BSK agreed: This was super tasty Asian/Middle Eastern/Chinese food.

There was fabulous sheet pan fish and vegetables to relish for dinner last night. BSK lined a sheet pan with a variety of chopped vegetables–zucchini, fennel, peppers, onions, etc. Filets of fresh hake topped the melange which got a robust splash of olive oil plus a dusting of fresh and dried herbs. When plated, there was a shower of chopped scallions. Don’t know how BSK did it but the fish was juicy and moist and flaked easily. The veggies were cooked to the right al dente point. Obviously, BSK has a mysterious sense of timing. HG accompanied the dish with spoonfuls of Kewpie mayonnaise mixed with sriracha. BSK scores again.

Yes, BSK makes the best broccoli sauce. And, she serves it over Orecchiette (little ears) pasta in the Calabrese fashion. Last night, BSK served it with bowls of excellent local mozzarella and chunks of Kumatoe. Worthy additions. HG was reminded of HG’s first meeting with his son-in-law Massimo R. many decades ago. Massimo was very nervous (for good reason). He and HG’s glorious young daughter, Lesley, were living together. He was 11 years older than Lesley (same HG/BSK age difference). He had nø idea how he would be received by Lesley’s parents. Not to worry. An excellent meal soon banished cøncerns. HG/BSK and the two lovers were dining at Delsomma, the very good (long closed) New York theater district Italian restaurant. First course was penne in broccoli sauce (inspiration for BSK’s later version). Then on to veal dishes and pork chops with vinegar peppers. Massimo chose the wine (he has now been doing  this for hundreds of family meals).  Then dessert and grappa. His nervousness disappeared and HG/BSK admired the movie star handsome, erudite gourmand. It was obvious that Massimo and Lesley were in love and were an ideal couple. Massimo and Lesley have had a long happy marriage producing two beautiful, brilliant daughters (both in their 20s).  Tonight, L. and M. are dining at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. They may be bringing Chinese food. After years of geographic separation, HG/BSK are overjoyed to be close to L. and M. in the Ocean State.

Yes, the egg is nature’s most beautiful object.  For eating, HG prefers conventional domestic chicken eggs available in supermarkets, convenience  stores, etc. HG rarely ate eggs until HG met and married BSK, the ultimate egg cook. BSK introduced HG to a childhood treat: Egg and Soldiers. This is a soft boiled egg with its top cracked open. “Soldiers” are thin strips of toast. They are dipped in the egg with a pinch of salt. Pleasant with morning coffee. This is often served in Paris bistros as an appetizer and the toast strips are called “batons.” BSK makes perfect poached eggs and they top hash, grits, polenta and scores of other dishes. HG’s favorite is Shakshuka, a Middle Eastern vegetable stew topped with poached egss and served with yogurt sauce, pita and fiery harissa. BSK’s scrambled eggs are soft and creamy after being cooked over low heat in a special Paderno pan. A smidgen of hot sauce is BSK’s taste secret. BSK’s omelets are masterpieces—stuffed with feta cheese or veggies—mushrooms,zucchini, spinach, etc. Last night HG had a lush feta cheese omelet with a mound of Greek yogurt. Once more, HG contemplated HG’s good fortune in spending the last 60 years eating eggs with BSK.

Dinner last night at Chez Riva, the art and book filled Riverside, RI, home (quick drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft) of gifted daughter Lesley R. and brilliant husband, Massimo R. Warmed by a wood stove fire, the group were delighted by the sunset over the home’s spectacular water view. Massimo poured an icy sparkling rose’, the perfect drink with an hors d’oeuvre of whitefish salad. Off to the dinner table for briny Rhode Island oysters. A lusty mushroom pasta featuring a melange of mushrooms including porcini and shitake followed. Generous dusting of freshly grated parmesan and grinds of black pepper brought HG to pasta heaven. Cheese course of fontina and gorgonzola with fig jam. Wine was a tasty red Bordeaux uncorked by Profesore Massimo. Lesley climaxed the meal for HG with a bowl of chocolate chip ice cream. Fagmilia !!!

HG is a very lucky 94-year-old.

HG/BSK depend upon three condiments as flavor enhancers. Number one is mustard. HG/BSK think Maille French mustard is the best. BSK uses it in vinaigrettes and some stews and braises. HG thinks it’s a nice  companion for roast beef, roast chicken and French charcuterie (pates, rillettes,terrinês, etc.). Yellow American mustard (the color is from turmeric) is best for sandwiches and hot dogs. HG /BSK prefer Russian dressing on Jewish delicatessen pastrami, corned beef, tongue sandwiches. (also good on turkey and chicken sandwiches). Chinese food demands a super hot mustard HG uses fiery Russian mustard (buys it on Amazon). There are many rivals that challenge Heinz Ketchup. They  fail. Heinz is the undisputed champ. French fries, hamburgers, meat loaf are unthinkable without a heavy splash of Heinz. And, it’s the backbone of  Russian dressing. Sriracha. HG first encountered this picante wonder some years ago at Vietnamese restaurants. It was on every table flanked by vinegar and soy sauce. These days it is omnipresent in supermarkets and other  grocers; in every type of restaurant; in the arsenal of every chef. HG likes to add it to fish stews (mixed with mayonnaise its a riff on French rouille).

HG is pretending to be in Paris. Just like when HG has been seated in a Mom-and-Pop bistro, HG begins dinner with slices of Pate de Campagne (farmland pork and chicken livers) accompanied by Dijon mustard, cornichons and wine (white or red). The pate has a pleasing rough texture and a hearty taste. HG gets it online from  Aurelian Dufour (HG has a terrine of Pate Normand –pork,apples,onions– that have been sauteed in Port. The Normand is in the fridge.) There are two problems with these tasty pates. They arrive very cold and it takes two or three days sitting on HG/BSK’s bar to reach an edible temperature. BSK objects to this for health/spoilage concerns. Tonight, HG will heat them for 30 seconds in the microwave unit and see how it works out. HG does not want to eat pate ice cream. The other problem with Dufour is while the pates are relatively inexpensive, shipping is quite pricey. So, be judicious when ordering Dufour’s treats.

Minor mystery solved: The Yiddish for son-in-law is “Edim.”  Massimo Riva is an extraordinary Edim and HG/BSK love him. He has been married for many years to HG/BSK’s daughter, Lesley, and she loves him as do their daughters Arianna and Sofia.  Massimo (also known as “Max”) is warm hearted, tactful and has exquisite manners. Max is a tall man with Italian good looks.  He is an athlete, winner of many tennis tournaments in Italy (during younger years) and still plays now(and wins). Max is a tenured professor at Brown University–head of the Italian Studies Department and the author of many books on Italian art and literature. He has been recognized by the Italian government as a contributor to Italy’ s culture. He has been a pioneer in bringing the culture into the internet. Moreover, Max is not an austere intellectual –he likes to eat well and is a whiz at selecting Italian wines to complement meals (HG has sipped wonders at Max and Lesley’s home). Max is thoughtful and generous.  An example: Family dinner at HG/BSK’s loft. Max brought HG a gift of 13 lush and briny oysters and shucked them perfectly. Okay? You can agree that in the lottery of Edims, HG won the very best. 

Saturday (Feb. 10 and Sunday (Feb. 11) comprised the best weekend HG ever experienced. Saturday evening, nephew Jonathan K. and wife, Barbara, joined HG/BSK (plus HG/BSK daughter, Lesley R and Lesley’s husband, Professor Massimo  R.) for dinner at the Central Falls loft. Jonathan and Barbara reside in magnificent homes in the Boston area and Cape Cod so leaving these mansions for a trip to gritty, industrial Central Falls is an effort. HG/BSK haven’t seen Jon and B. for many years. Time has been very kind to them. They are athletically trim and Barbara remains beautiful and stylish. They didn’t come empty handed. Barbara brought a lush lemon meringue piê and almond shortbread cookies (fabulous pie and cookies created by her). Jon brought  bay scallops (these succulent wonders came from Nantucket Bay, HG presumes). Best of all, he gave HG the 1943 graduation photograph (large) of P. S. 86, The Bronx.  HG is very recognizable. (it had been in the possession of HG’s beloved late sister, Beulah Naomi Katz). Jon and Barbara also brought photos of  cute 2-year old Lesley R. and a bag of Beulah’s costume jewelry. Dinner was BSK’s Moroccan chicken tagine served on a bed of fluffy couscous. It was so tangy (dotted with harissa) that everyone had two big helpings. Sunday was Super Bowl time. BSK made a big pot of BSK’s  inimitable chili. There were toppings of chopped onions, avocado, grated cheddar–plus a stack of corn tortillas. Lesley and Massimo joined  HG/BSK in front of the living room TV and dined on the chili. Many plate refills accompanied by Black and Tans (thoughtful Massimo brought Guinness Stout). First half of the game featured strong defenses, fumbles and a sub-par Patrick Mahomes for the Chiefs. The 49’ers led 10-3. Second half started with a Mahomes fumble. Looked like San Fran was on the way to win. (HG, however, felt the Mahomes/Kelce magic would become assertive.) Second half was pure excitement  with touchdowns and record breaking field goals. The teams were tied and went into overtime. San Fran had first possession and scored a field goal. That meant Kansas City would have to score a field goal to stay in the game. A touchdown would give them the win. HG thinks Mahomes is great under pressure–he can beat you with his arm or his feet. HG was serene–fully confident in Mahomes. He marched his team down the field to goal line territory. The 49’ers had their focus on Kelce, allowing Mahomes to toss an easy Super Bowl winning pass to Hardman. A very exciting game. HG celebrated with more lush pie and a snifter of elderberry liqueur.

HG/BSK were in Barcelona during a Spanish visit and sought a reprieve from Gaudi and the other gifted architects who made the buildings of the city a visual delight. HG/BSK found an elegant, small bar/cafe and happily sipped chilled dry sherry. HG/BSK were seated close to two fashionable women. They were eating, with gusto, what appeared to be a fish stew. The waiter was informative. They were eating fresh cod, sliced potatoes and onions in a seafood stock enhanced by herbs and a judicious pinch of cayenne. The women left and HG/BSK ordered the dish–ate and enjoyed it. BSK, a talented cook, makes the cod dish at home (much happiness for HG). BSK’s version is more “picante” than Barcelona’s.  BSK cooked it last night for dinner and was accompanied by a hearty Australian Malbec. Joy.