HUNGRY GERALD

One of the many joys of summering at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home is the presence of Toby,The Wonder Dog and Pip, the gentle and intelligent female dog. These charming and amusing companions are with us because Gifted Daughter Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo are in Italy. Massimo is a tenured Professor at Brown U., an author, a pioneer in making Italian culture available on the internet. He is also a film authority and is currently leading a cinema festival in Bologna. Besides having Padua joy, Lesley works much of the day long distance for her demanding communications executive position in Rhode Island. Toby and Pip live with L .& M. during the non-Summer months at L. & M.’s Riverside, RI, home. It is difficult for BSK (BSK/HG live in a spacious Central Falls, RI.,loft) to meet the needs of old HG–95 in November, hopefully–and take care of dogs. So, Toby and Pip are getting much attention, excellent food and many beach acres in which to roam. Only one problem–Pip won’t allow BSK to brush her teeth. That will have to wait until Pip meets Lesley at HG/BSK’s giant family reunion in late July and continuing through the full month of August. Much merriment and feasting is anticipated.

Last week there were two cold and rainy days on Prince Edward Island. BSK’s kitchen garden at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home got a much needed watering. The inclement weather called for warm, comforting food. And, the answer was “Chowda” (That’s what chowder is called in New England where it’s  an all season favorite). On one night, BSK made cod chowder. The next night there was a shrimp/sea scallop chowder. Instead of milk or cream, BSK used coconut milk and kept it light by minimizing potatoes. Fragrant, delightful, tasty dinners–and, of course, comforting. HG was reminded of an incident that has become a family legend. HG/BSK’s children were very young and the family was motoring to HG/BSK’s summer home on Nantucket Island (HG/BSK are fond of island summering–Fire Island, Nantucket and now, PEI). The family was famished on the way to Nantucket. HG was in a nasty mood because HG was in the midst–unsuccessful–of trying to stop smoking. (Cancer–32 years ago–made HG stop immediately and permanently). Hyannis Port had a number of restaurants  and HG/BSK chose one with a nautical name –something like “Skipper Jack’s Seafood”. New England clam chowder came to the table. It was a sodden mess of flour, water, lumpy mashed potatoes, a few bits of canned chopped clams and bereft of any clam flavor. HG was outraged. Before a room of startled customers (a table of which were nuns) HG screamed: “This isn’t chowder. This is SHIT!!!  And I’m not paying for it!!” HG’s abashed family slunk out of the restaurant leaving HG, with no wallet, to settle the bill. No one spoke until a stop at a good roadside fried clam shack. The clams were delicious and everyone had a laugh.  All was forgiven as HG puffed on after meal cigarettes and became a happy fellow. (Since that day, HG has never ordered New England Clam Chowder. HG prefers the clear and briny clam chowder served in Rhode Island and at Legal Seafoods restaurant at Boston’s Logan Airport).

As the name implies, this is a tongue tingling, fiery (picante) chicken dish. BSK, one of the world’s eminent yardbird cooks, made it for dinner last night and HG’s mouth was filled with heated pleasure. There are three things that create the heat: Gochugaro (Korean red pepper flakes); Gochugang (Korean red pepper paste ); Coarsely ground black pepper. Abundant amounts of these elements are mixed with soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic and ginger. Chicken thighs  (boneless, skinless) are rolled in this spicy mix and then sizzled in canola oil with a bit of water until done. It’s served on a bed of rice (HG amps up the heat with a large spoonful of Sambal Oelek). Chilled Prince Edward Island ale cools the mouth.

The late Sirio Maccioni (died in 2020–age 88–at his home in Italy) was an elegant, courtly restaurateur. His restaurant , Le Cirque, had a long run–1974-2017–on Manhattan’s upper east side. Its last location was particularly spiffy–151 Beacon Court, a space in the Bloomberg Building.on E. 51st Street. Always welcoming and gracious to the celebrities and “ladies who lunch” that made the expensive eatery their hangout. Although there have been disputes about this, Le Cirque is credited with inventing Spaghetti Primavera and Creme Brulee.  (This dessert is omnipresent in almost every Paris bistro, restaurant and cafe–Le Cirque’s claim seems very dubious). HG thought about Le Cirque tonight as BSK made dinner tonight–Pappardelle Primavera–using fresh Prince Edward Island ingredients  (Yes, Pappardelle is not from PEI–BSK doesn’t use spaghetti in this dish preferring a heartier pasta. The pasta is an Italian import as is the pancetta BSK uses judiciously and the olive oil). All of the other ingredients–zucchini , shallots, parsley, feta cheese and white wine are local except California garlic. BSK’s version of Primavera is much better than Le Cirque’s version of yesteryear. Le Cirque’s was insipid, bathed in cream and verging on tasteless.

The great Yiddish writer, I.B. Singer, was a confirmed vegetarian. He was asked if he didn’t eat chicken because of his health. His reply; “No, for the chickens’ health.” HG recalled this as he watched an internet video of some 300 pounds of large, bloody pieces of beef dumped into a giant cooking receptacle. HG was revolted as HG thought of the butchering of inoffensive cattle. No, this didn’t make HG a vegetarian. The oldster will have occasional lamb chops, pork chops, bacon and sausage. Unlike Singer, HG eats many chickens in dishes prepared with skill and creativity by BSK. However, if HG did become a vegetarian, HG would be happily nourished by a dish BSK made last night: Couscous With Tomatoes, Okra and Chickpeas.  In addition to these ingredients, BSK chopped peppers, garlic and onions–heated a pan with olive oil and gently cooked the melange of vegetables and chickpeas. BSK flavored the dish with tomato paste, fiery Harissa, Aleppo pepper and a half cup of red wine vinegar. Lots of parsley was added to the cooking dish. BSK substituted quinoa for the couscous (It made a nice bed for the spicy food).  BSK added chorizo to BSK’s bowl. None for HG. As usual, HG’s bowl got a splash of Sambal Oelek. HG drank much red wine, toasted BSK’s chef skills and was blissful  The abundance of okra, HG’s favorite veggie, made HG happy.

This is the glass you’ll find on the tables at every Paris bistro and cafe  And, the glass that’s on HG/BSK’s dinner table and food prep bar–it’s the go to glass for water (and sometimes for rough and ready cheap red wine). A dozen years ago, Saveur Magazine did a`brief article on the Picardies. HG learned the glass has been manufactured by the French company, Duralex, since 1929. (The year of HG’s birth). Duralex patented the process that made the glass unbreakable, shatterproof and impervious to heat. Despite HG’s clumsiness, the  eight glasses in HG/BSK’s cupboard look good as new. The glass has a pleasing fluted shape and a  reassuring weight. (Am sipping water from one right now). They will be passed on to our surviving family.

BSK’s birthday was celebrated at Yossi and Noel’s (BSK’s sister and brother in law) Ocean Mist Farm on the south shore of Prince Edward Island. It was a gala event. Dining room views included blooming–and fragrant– wisteria and lilacs. The food on the table was grand. After toasts to the birthday lady, the group dug into boiled lobsters (harvested in the morning) that were dipped into melted butter. This was followed by asparagus from Yossi’s garden and Noel’s super pungent linguine in garlic scape pesto. Beware, Dracula!! Dessert was fisheye tapioca flavored with sugar and cinnamon. (Augmented with vanilla ice cream). And, BSK got gifts–lavender oil and a CD of World War Two bombers. This was a night to be locked in HG/BSK’s memories.

During HG’s hard drinking days with fellow New York journalists (1950-1954) HG often went to lower east side hole-in-the-wall Jewish bars when conventional bars closed  (HG presumes these after-hours bars paid off the police and other authorities). There was vodka, whiskey, brandy and other spirits. Surprise! The bar was topped with platters of cold fried fish showered with crushed garlic and a dash of Tabasco. Mystery! Where did this come from? Never saw it in conventional bars (Uptown and downtown). HG consulted Claudia Roden’s “The Book of Jewish Food.”  HG learned cold fried fish is a staple dish of Great Britain’s Jewish population. The preparation of Jewish style fried fish (filets dusted with flour, dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread crumbs or matzo meal and fried in oil or chicken–or goose–fat) came to London with Jews exiled from  Spain in the sixteenth century. A Portuguese writer in 1544 noted this was a favorite dish of the refugees. Roden noted that the Jewish cookbook of 1846 suggested the fish be fried in olive oil. Fish fried “in the Jewish style” was a favorite of Thomas Jefferson, says Roden. The popularity of Jewish fried fish led to the creation of ubiquitous “fish and chips” introduced by Jewish fishmonger Joseph Malin in 1860 at his London shop. The marriage–Jewish fish and Irish spuds–seems eternal. Malin is honored by a plaque in London’s fish market. So how did cold fried fish  get to illicit lower east side bars in New York? HG believes it got there when a Jewish bar owner or bartender tasted the tasty cold fish in London.

Cod is one of the most important fish inhabiting the oceans. When dried and then soaked in changes of water, it was a staple food on sailing ships. Cod fishing helped establish the Canadian provinces of Newfoundland, Labrador, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick (the “Maritimes”). And, cod is delicious when prepared in a variety of ways. Last night, dinner on Prince Edward Island was cod, peppers and onions cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. It was accompanied by lush mashed potatoes. A Wow! BSK often uses chunks of cod in a chowder or baked cod with potatoes and onions Portuguese (or Provencal) style. HG is very fond of “Baccala”, an Italian dish of much soaked dried cod cooked with onions, garlic, peppers, white wine and chili flakes. Good hot, room temperature or cold. BSK and gifted daughter Lesley R. craft excellent codfish cakes. However, the ultimate codfish cakes are served at a modest Nantucket eatery, Downy Flakes. They are served with a sublime egg sauce–the perfect late breakfast or brunch. Brandade is served in French bistros and many New York restaurants (HG always orders it because it’s delicious). Make it at home:  Cook long soaked salt cod in water and milk (add your favorite aromatics).  Boil and mash potatoes, moisten with olive oil and some cooking water. Remove cod from the sauce pan and mix with the potatoes, adding a bit of sweet cream (give it a quick whirl in the food processor if you like a smooth brandade–HG prefers it a bit chunky). Finally, using a garlic press, mix an exuberant amount of garlic to the brandade. If there are leftovers, make small brandade pancakes topped with slices of Swiss (or cheddar cheese)–sizzle them in olive oil until cheese melts and serve with poached or scrambled eggs. O Dinis, a Portuguese restaurant in Providence RI., serves cod in numerous tasty ways. Cod and steamed clams in a wine and garlic sauce is a favorite–as is a filet of crisp fried salt cod served with boiled potatoes.

The great restaurant, Gage &  Tollner, the venerable and historic landmark of downtown Brooklyn, has reopened after being closed for a number of years. According to the media, the antique interior has been meticulously retained while getting a needed sprucing. Unfortunately, HG/BSK won’t be dining there. The prices are too lofty ( 19 bucks for French fries and most main dishes around $60). And, they are not serving the tasty dishes of yesteryear (check the archive for S ept. 3, 2019 post). HG/BSK ate there often before moving to Colorado, Santa Fe, Vancouver 38 years ago–now living in Central Falls, RI.   Alas, clam bellies; mutton chop with corn fritters; Nesselrode Pie are not on present day G & T menus. Sad. However, HG/BSK have their happy culinary memories.