HUNGRY GERALD

In the 1970’s, London was HG/BSK’s favorite city. HG/BSK went there often. London was very English in those days–not the relentlessly international financial center it has now become. Portobello Market was a favorite hangout for HG/BSK—splendid food (best fish and chips); bargains galore in tableware, art, furniture and clothes. One day, HG spotted eight shapely soup spoons. They were  made in England and looked blackened and battered. The dyed hair, buxom lady who was the stall keeper, reassured HG in a lilting Cockney drawl: “It’ll shine up loverly, ducks!!”. She was right–HG bought them and they have been the go to spoons for more than 50 years. London museums were stimulating: The National Gallery, Tate (before it became Tate Modern) and Victoria & Albert were wonderful. HG/BSK also enjoyed the smaller art venues—Courtauld Gallery, the Wallace Collection, Sir John Soane’s house. And, the food, ah, the food!!  Fabulous, affordable eating–fresh oysters, Dover Sole, steamed grey sole, super scallops, shrimp and mussels–and the best thinly sliced Irish and Scotch smoked salmon. When in a carnivorous mood, HG/BSK had a mixed grill with souffle potatoes at the Connaught Hotel Restaurant  and Savoy Hotel Grill. (Connaught also served lush steak and kidney pie as well as “Silversides”, a riff on Viennese boiled beef–with hot mustard and fiery horseradish, of course). For casual dining, there were scores of good Indian restaurants as well as a dozen Chinese restaurants (dim sum was nice). That London is no more (though the Indian restaurants continue to flourish) but HG/BSK are left with an abundance of happy memories.

Orsini’s on New York’s W. 56th was a hangout for HG in the 1950’s when HG was married to HG’s late ex-wife. First a coffee shop and then a restaurant; its customers were famous socialites, actors and writers. When on stage in New York, Yul Brynner and Larence Olivier took their meals there. It was founded by the handsome and courtly Italian, Armando Orsini, and his younger brother, Elio. HG spent a lot of time with Armando since Armando was dating HG’s ex-wife’s close friend, a beautiful model. HG took Armando to HG’s favorite rough and ready Italian restaurants— Patsy’s Pizzeria on First Avenue in East Harlem was one. Snobbish Armando didn’t like it–as well as other HG choices. This made HG dislike Armando and his phony nobility. (In later years, Patsy’s was discovered by Woody Allean and became a gourmand choice —there was no connection between this Patsy’s and the classy Patsy’s in midtown which was a favorite of Frank Sinatra). Armando and the model broke up (she didn’t like his sexual choices). Orsini’s had a long run–1953-1984. Before opening Orsini’s, Armando was married for a few years to the famous stripper, Lili St. Cyr. (though separated, it was believed Lili helped bankroll Orsini’s and encouraged her numerous famous theatrical friends to patronize it).   Armando died in 2011, age 88. He had been married for 51 years to Georgianna Orsini–they wed in 1960. Georgianna was a well regarded poet–author of “Imperfect Lover” and “In Concert”.

Whitefish are abundant in the Upper Great Lakes of the United States. Most New Yorkers are familiar with smoked whitefish (sold as filets, whole fish or salads at venerable “appetizing” stores–Russ & Daughters; Zabar’s and Barney Greengrass). A slice of smoked whitefish on a warmed bialy covered in cream cheese is a favored HG breakfast dish. Whitefish are a feature of Wisconsin “fish boils” in locales like Door County and others settled by Scandinavian immigrants. Fish boils are cooked in water in cast iron pots over wood fires. The water gets a lot of salt–one pound of salt per two gallons of water. When the water boils, potatoes and onions (in a wire basket) are lowered into the pot with a dash of Zatarain’s Crab Mix powder. When almost done, chunks of whitefish (in another wire basket) go into the pot. Onions and potatoes are removed and the fish cooks quickly. Platters of fish and vegetables are showered with melted butter—strong horseradish and wedges of lemon on the side. Besides providing wondrous meals–smoked or boiled–whitefish are healthy—much valuable high omega-3 fatty acid. Unaware of its nutritional benefits, HG’s beloved late Mom used whitefish in her gefilte fish mix.

HG is fond of crisp, fried catfish. Nestled in a hamburger bun (much tartar sauce and sprinkles of Tabasco), it’s a down home treat—also nice with a bowl of grits or mac and cheese. BSK won’t eat catfish. BSK remembers catfish tasting muddy when BSK was a youngster. Today, catfish are cultivated in hygienic fish farms–the result is clean tasting catfish without a trace of muddiness. HG began eating fried catfish at casual Harlem eateries when HG was a student at uptown (145th Street) CCNY. The Harlem cooks gave the catfish much rinsing to banish muddiness, rolled them in seasoned flour and deep fried them in lard. They were served with grits (much gravy) or mac and cheese–plus smoked ham enriched collard greens. A superb dinner for ravenous, football player HG. Community fish fries are ocasionally held at Black churches in the South. Ah, if only HG could attend!!

Originally from China, carp was cultivated in European ponds beginning in the Middle Ages. Carp was an essential part of the Jewish cuisine. The French enjoyed it and “Carpe a la Juive” (carp in the Jewish style) remains on some bistro menus. (French Jews cook it at home–they poach the fish on a bed of fried onions and serve it–at room temperature–with a sauce composed of ginger, parsley, vinegar and bread crumbs). Almost no American seafood stores sell the fish–even Fearless Fish, the extensive seafood emporium in Providence, RI, has no carp. You can find carp filets in many Chinese restaurants, usually blanketed in a thick, spicy sauce. Carp was sold in every Bronx fish store in HG’s youth. Ida Kopkind Freeman, HG’s late Mother, would serve filets for dinner as a main dish (gefilte fish, in which ground carp is an essential ingredient, was an appetizer). She poached the carp in water, onions and carrots. It was served cold or at room temperature with fiery horseradish and boiled potatoes. Young HG enjoyed it and would love to duplicate it at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft if elusive carp can be found.

There are few better foods (for non-vegetarians) than grilled New York (fennel flecked), spicy Italian sausages. The best ever (This was in HG’s younger days) were sold from pick up trucks in New York’s then affordable Greenwich Village. HG has noted in other posts that truck sausages were grilled with peppers and onions, tucked into Italian bread, wrapped in wax paper and handed to customers.  Accompanied by a cold beer from a local bar, they were  a delicious hearty lunch that staved off hunger until dinner time. The sausage sandwich was 25 cents (as was the beer).  Yes, youngsters, old HG ate well for pennies ln the late 40’s and early 50’s (Nedick’s sold good hot dogs for 10 cents–later raised to 20 cents). Food (especially seafood) is very good in Rhode Island, where HG/B SK live. But, Italian sausages, even in foody Providence, are mediocre. However, BSK recently discovered good Italian sausages at Market Basket, a big supermarket just over the Massachusetts border. The sausages there are close to the New York Italian species and, last night, BSK cooked them in a sauce of olive oil, onions, garlic, parsley and canned San Marzano tomatoes. BSK served the sausage sauce over pasta and it was a treat. If you want real Noo Yawk sausages. Google ESPOSITO’S. Splendid—but expensive.

Easter Sunday was one of the happiest–and most delicious–days in HG/BSK’s long lives. HG/BSK joined gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her husband, the equally gifted author and Brown tenured professor, Massimo R., at their Riverside, RI, home. An epic food and wine feast was prepared by them to welcome the arrival of Spring weather and flowers–and a modest bow to the religious aspects of the holiday. Sunny, mildly breezy day. The L.and R. home has a flower abundant deck facing spectacular views of the Providence River (before it empties into Narragansett Bay). Happy HG faced the sun’s rays bouncing off the water while seated in a comfy deck chair and sipping an Aperol “Spritz” prepared by Massimo. Outdoor delight. After an hour of sunning, the first two courses were eaten on the deck–two big, fresh shrimp (possibly best ever) and four oysters deftly shucked by Massimo. He poured a chilled, dry Prosecco as an accompaniment).  This was followed by a bit of country pork terrine with a dab of Mostarda (HG’s happiness level began to verge on ecstasy). Then, indoors for serious eating. Lesley prepared unusual asparagus ravioli (they were a shade of asparagus green) and stuffed with a flavorful fresh asparagus mix. Final touches were a chunky asparagus sauce, grated parmigiano, ground pepper and sea salt. More Prosecco. Oh,my!! HG could have stopped there–but the parade dish was yet to come. It was a rack of lamb, roasted with a mix of spices and herbs. Fabulous. The chops rested on a bed of baby spinach leaves and were accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes for HG and small, roasted spuds for the rest of the group. BSK made her lush Greek avgolemono sauce to cover some of the chops (HG poured some of the goodness over HG’s taters). Massimo decanted a bottle of  Amarone, the powerful, mouth filling Italian wine, giving it plenty of time to breathe. It lived up to its lofty reputation (HG, sadly, was limited to a small glass because of HG’s alcohol stricures- HG could have spent hours drinking the entire decanter). Dessert was a down home flan made by Lesley’s Portuguese house cleaning aide. HG’s portion was topped with a crown of whipped cream. This was a meal never to be forgotten and replayed in HG’s mind whenever hungry or handicapped.

HG/BSK live in a spacious (3,200 square feet loft —creatively decorated by BSK) in gritty (but home to scores of artists) Central Falls, RI. Spring weather is pleasant during the day (50-55 degrees when it’s sunny). However, when it gets dark at supper time, it gets chilly as the temp plunges into the thirties. This calls for a warm and comforting supper. BSK meets the challenge with BSK’s classic “Green Soup” (When Tokyo weather chills, SJ and wife, Maiko, sometimes have it on the menu at their izakaya, Freeman Shokudo.) So, what’s in “Green Soup” ?  BSK boils chicken stock and adds broccoli, onions, garlic, parsley, over-the hill-greens, spinach, potatoes, cardamon, nutmeg, Aleppo pepper and salt to the pot. When the ingredients soften, BSK uses an immersion blender to create a smooth, (but slightly chunky) puree. Last night, for an extra picante touch, BSK added some green chili powder to the soup. When the steaming bowls came to the table, they were topped with some Greek yogurt and flanked by slices of baguette toasted with melted cheese. Glasses were filled with superior Bogle cabernet. Euphoria!! Waves of warm comfort flowed through HG and–once more–BSK brought HG supper joy.

So, which is better? HG tasted the Fearless Fish version for lunch. Very tasty version of this great Jewish appetizer. Herbaceous flavor (dill and parsley) was pleasant. Chopped carrots were incorporated (Mom’s version had slices of carrots cooked in the fish broth). The FF version had no jellied fish broth accompaniment. Mom nestled the gefilte fish in much of this lusty aspic. Because of this, HG has had to declare Mom’s gefilte fish the winner. Sometimes Mom warmed many fish oblongs in warm fish broth enhanced by fiery (HG grated) horseradish. This was accompanied by challah smeared with chicken fat. Very yummy supper on a cold Bronx night. Mom had chicken fat in her gefilte fish mix which added to its excellence. FF skips this Belarus touch. HG’s Mom died more than 50 years ago. In her memory, HG will eat FF gefilte fish in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. No jellied fish broth or schmaltz, alas.

BSK bought a special treat for HG at Fearless Fish in Providence. This top quality (expensive) seafood shop is the choice of Rhode Island’s knowledgeable shoppers. HG’s treat was  FF’s house made Gefilte Fish, a staple of Passover, the upcoming Jewish holiday noted for its extensive use of matzos. HG hasn’t tasted the FF fish balls (they are shaped like French quenelles). However, HG is suspicious. There’s no jellied fish broth; like horseradish, it’s the essential accompaniment of Gefilte Fish. Could FF’s version meet the standards of the ultimate Gefilte Fish cooked by HG’s late beloved Mother, Ida Kopkind Freeman? Mom cut equal parts of carp, whitefish, pike and Buffalo fish into chunks. (Mom called Buffalo Fish “buffel’—- It used to be widely available but today it can only be found in a few Chinatown,Flushing and Sunset Park Chinese shops–all in New York). Fish heads and bones were simmered into a robust fish stock. Mom chopped the fish chunks into a smooth mix (This demanded a strong arm and energy since food processors didn’t exist in her time). The fish was then mixed with matzo meal, beaten eggs, a bit of chicken fat plus salt and pepper. It was then formed into oblong shapes (like  Middle Eastern “kefta”)–head and bones were removed from the fish stock and the oblongs were poached gently until done–when cooked the broth was poured over them and put in the refrigerator where the broth became jellied (like a softer aspic). Young HG grated the horseradish near an open window to avoid being overwhelmed by fumes. Mom put the condiment in a tight fitting container. Topped with jellied broth and horseradish and accompanied by a chunk of challah, a shot of vodka and a beer chaser, this was a fabulous fish appetizer. HG got an ample portion since HG favored it over the main dish (except when the main dish was gravy soaked brisket–known at home as “gedempte fleisch”). HG will taste the FF fish tonight. Better than Mom’s? We’ll see.  Anyway, it will bring the past into HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.