HUNGRY GERALD

HG first tasted hake, a lush and economical fish, in Madrid many years ago. HG recalls thick filets sauteed in olive oil and garlic, served on a bed of rice, and finished with melted butter, lots of lemon juice and a sprinkle of hot sauce. Very savory eating. HG recently observed that John Dory was HG’s favorite fish–an expensive treat—$34 at the Fearless Fish seafood shop in Providence . HG has changed HG’s mind–the new favorite fish is hake from the Atlantic Ocean bordering Rhode Island. When prepared by BSK, the hake is juicy, cut into silky slices and can be sauteed, fried, steamed, and cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. Yes, it’s versatile—and best of all, it’s affordable. BSK buys excellent hake for $11 a pound at Tony’s Seafood in East Providence. Last night, BSK made a happy meal of sauteed hake in butter sauce with sides of quinoa and delicious asparagus. Once more, BSK created a healthy and very delicious meal. Wonder Woman scores again. Dinner at HG/BSK’s  Central Falls, RI.,loft is a daily pleasure (only marred sometimes by HG’s bad temper as HG struggles with infirmities).

There are many tasty foodstuffs available through the Manischewitz brand. However, since it was acquired by Kayco (0wner of all Jewish brands–except for family owned Streit’s Matzos). HG is not sure what is actually made by Manischewitz or outsourced elsewhere and branded Manischewitz (the brand was favored by generations of Jewish mothers including HG’s beloved late Mom, Ida Kopkind Freeman).  HG is not concerned about the origin of Manischewitz gefilte fish. It is the best (comparable to Mom’s version). HG had a happy lunch today of the fish smothered in jellied broth and pungent and fiery Kelchner’s Horseradish. Alas, there was no challah available to sop up the fragrant juices.  HG’s late Mom would enhance the meal by covering HG’s challah with a layer of chicken fat and coarse kosher salt–a happy memory.

Fall River, MA (once a major whaling port), is a short drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. It is home to Portugalia Marketplace, a vast market specializing in everything Portuguese–tinned fish, slabs of dried salt cod, cheese, wine, breads and more—much, much more. In size, scope and variety, it resembles Zabar’s, the New York City gourmand landmark. BSK buys tinned sardines there–the incomparable Conservas Santos (skinless, boneless, in organic extra virgin olive oil). BSK mixed the fish with fennel, onions, garlic, capers and olive oil and sauteed them to make a lovely sauce, This was mixed with fettuccine–robust eating. HG/BSK  first tasted this dish in the beautiful Italian coastal city of Taormina (a vacation destination favored by Winston Churchill). Last night’s BSK version was better. 

Many, many years ago, HG/BSK toured the beautiful Italian province—historic Sicily. Unfortunately, Sicily’s image has been tarnished by the Mafia–in reality, in fiction and in memorable movies. But, it’s much more than that.  Its history is unique. Moorish/Arab,French, Greek occupiers. All have left their mark on the island’s architecture, cuisine and culture. There are many magnificent ruins of Greek temples with soaring columns–visual delights. Our guides to Sicily were daughter, Lesley, and her husband, Massimo Riva. HG/BSK were fortunate. Massimo is Italian and an academic luminary (tenured professor at Brown University in Providence). His achievements—many books, international lectures, bringing Italian culture into the internet age, cinema programs in Providence and Bologna–have been honored by the Italian government. (His latest book: “Giochi d’ombra”, has just been published by Einaudi). Charming, modest and knowledgeable about every aspect of Sicily–he was a dazzling, erudite guide.(Massimo was born and grew up in the Sicilian coastal city of historic Siracusa, once an importantt Grecian city, second only to Athens. Massimo left the city for university and the beginning of his academic and tennis careers). One sunny Sicilian day, Massimo led us to the terrace of a hilltop restaurant overlooking Greek temple ruins. Drank copious amounts of chilled white wine and after a modest appetizer all ate Spaghetti a la Norma—the sauce was composed of eggplant, tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and tomatoes. Wondrous. BSK has made this many times while HG/BSK have lived in the United States and Canada. Last night, comfy in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft, BSK served the Norma dish with a bottle of Malbec, fruity robust Argentine red. Pasta was farfalle and the sauce: San Marzano canned tomatoes, cubes of eggplant, olive oil, garlic,herbs and much Asiago cheese. Stupendous—better than Sicilian. However, no Greek temple views –just weathered industrial loft buildings (most converted to condos).

The glorious city of Paris is an HG favorite–architecture, colorful streets, avenues and boulevards; museums and art; dining, style and a unique civilized ambience plus superior people watching. Sadly, HG can no longer visit. At 95, long air travel makes visits too difficult. However, HG can still recall wistfully the joyous meals HG had at enticing brasseries, First brasserie meal was at Le Vaudeville, housed in a wonderful art deco space near the Bourse. HG ate, with pleasure—a dozen oysters, grilled cod with truffled mashed potatoes and an ile flottante for dessert plus much chilled Muscadet. Unfortunately, Vaudeville went downhill after being taken over by a chain,  Good news. Bought and polished by top flight restaurateurs, Vaudeville is back to glory (recent review by  Alec Lobrano). Too bad HG can’t sample it. Le Stella in the 16th is still operating . HG/BSK ate there many times —oysters, bulots, soupe de poisson, steak tartare, rack of lamb, ile flottante. Traditional French food cooked to perfection,  A very happy memory. There are two new brasseries that sound very good—Astair and Bellanger. Very extensive menus including Frog Legs Provencale. Moderate prices. HG can only sigh.

Founded in 1871, Rokeach is still in business and sells a variety of kosher foods (including marshmallows). HG often orders their very good borscht and chicken soup—don’t like their too sweet gefilte fish. HG’s late Mom always had Rokeach soap (kosher lettering through the bar) in the kitchen sink. And, that’s how the New York company got its start. Kosher immigrant Jews couldn’t use American soap because it was made with lard and other “trayf” (unkosher) ingredients.  Rokeach solved the soap problem by using coconut oil in its manufacture. It was a huge success. The company also used coconut oil flavored with onion as a cooking oil. Since it was vegetarian it was “pareve”–meaning it could be used in cooking both dairy and meat products.  Another huge success. It’s now called “Nyafat” and is distributed by Manischewitz. Mom also ordered Rokeach candles for festive illumination and religious observance (they were minimal in HG’s socialist family). Kayco now monopolizes the online kosher food market after acquiring Manischewitz, Rokeach, Horowitz-Margareten, Mother’s, Mrs. Adler’s and other brands. Only independent left is Streit’s–succeeding generations keep manufacturing matzos. Founded in 1925, Streit’s also makes excellent mushroom and barley soup, noodles and other products. Their onion egg matzo is a year round treat.

HG is fond of aspic in its many alluring forms—firm and soft; enclosing food; covering food (gefilte fish); in chunks (consomme madrilene). There were few things better in HG’s long eating history than HG’s late Mom’s gefilte fish covered in soft fish broth aspic and pungent horseradish (challah soaked up the juices). These days, HG makes do with jarred Manischewitz gefilte in fish broth. A favorite HG food is Jambon Persille, an aspic enclosed loaf of ham, parsley and herbs. HG got a first taste of this treat at the food department of Bon Marche on the left bank of Paris. A counterman was cutting samples of Jambon Persille for a lineup of elegant women. HG joined in and ate about a dozen thick slices before halting and ordering two kilos for home eating with mustard, cornichons, buttered baguette and Muscadet, (a wonderful lunch and dinner appetizer). HG also enjoyed the dish at the plain spoken Ma Bourgogne restaurant in Paris (they also had savory quenelles de brochet). HG bought the jambon delight at Oyama, the charcuterie/cheese shop in Vancouver (B.C.) Public Market. (HG/BSK had a loft in super-foody Van for some years). Alas, no JP in New York, New Jersey, Colorado, Santa Fe (and Central Falls, RI,, where HG/BSK now reside and Prince Edward Island, residence for some months in an oceanfront dwelling). Not all is lost. HG orders head cheese, tasty aspic enclosed calf head loaf from venerable Schaller & Weber in New York (a pleasant meal with the shop’s German rye bread followed by Liederkranz cheese,onions and liverwurst–dark beer is the drink). Occasionally, HG’s Mom made “P’cha”. a jellied calf’s feet dish (kosher version of JP). It was served at the old Sammy’s Romanian on the lower. east side but don’t know if it’s on the menu at the reborn Sammy’s. HG’s late father liked it and ate lusty amouunts.  HG had one taste. Hated it. Colony, the favored restaurant of socialites in the ’30’s, ’40’s and early 50’s, served many aspic dishes. Svelte ladies thought it low in calories.

One of HG’s favorite restaurants is Los Andes in Providence.  It’s Peruvian–spectacular ceviche among many other good things. Their Pisco Sours are state of the art—HG needs much willpower to resist having more than one. The owners of Los Andes have opened another restaurant in Providence—Brasa y Chifa. It is Peruvian with some Chinese influenced dishes. Wonderful daughter, Lesley R. celebrated Mother’s Day at HG/BSK’s Central Falls. RI, loft. ( Lesley’s husband, Massimo, sent greetings–the brilliant author and academic–tenured Professor at Brown University–was lecturing on the west coast). Generous Lesley brought a detectable meal from Brasa y Chifa– chicken wings in a lush sauce; large platter of Peruvian Lo Mein; nicely cooked rice; fried plantains and stewed vegetables. There were a host of condiments/salads—pico de gallo, corn salsa/salad, baked pinto beans, two hot sauces (fiery and moderate) plus traditional Peruvian spicy sauce (Peruvians use it on everything). Drank Malbec and HG toasted two beloved and resourceful Moms—BSK and Lesley. Yes, Mothers Day, Fathers Day and Valentine Day are commerce contrived holidays designed to benefit greeting cards, candy, apparel companies. (“What shall we buy for Dad–a tie or soap-on-a rope?”). However, they are a good excuse for fun family feasting.

HG/BSK now live in Rhode Island (spacious loft in Central Falls) and enjoy shopping at McGreen’s Wines and Liquors in Riverside,RI,  (close to daughter Lesley’s home). Encyclopedic collection with bargains galore. Favorite wine shop in Colorado was Applejack and in Santa Fe it was Kokoman (ramshackle exterior but a dazzling collection of wines and spirits inside, curated by a mannerly and expert manager). One of the most important writers about wine is HG/BSK’s friend for many, many years, Peter Hellman. He is a collector and buys his significant vintages at a small Rhode Island shop. Yes, Rhody has many delightful surprises for lovers of wine. L’Chaim!!!

HG/BSK drink wine every day (modest amount for HG).  HG has a wine cocktail (sweet and dry Tribuno vermouth with a splash of grapefruit bitters–served on the rocks) before HG’s glass of Pinot Noir or Pinot Grigio with dinner (these are not the only wines sommelier BSK serves–there are Malbecs, Tempranillos, Cabernet, etc., at hand). HG/BSK have lived in many places and had many travels overseas. Buying wine and booze differ in many areas  (yes, there are “dry” towns but HG/BSK avoided them). HG/BSK began their married life 61 years ago in an artist’s studio and apartment at 27 W. 67th Street on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. The rental was $140 per month. ( a duplex in the building just sold for more than $4,000,000). The 27th Street Liquor Store was on the corner with a great selection of wines. HG/BSK often started meals with splits ($1.50) of big time French champagne. HG/BSK were welcome summer guests at many Hamptons beach homes. That’s because the duo would bring a case of Chateau Mouton (great with steak) as a house gift (wine cost 40 dollars a case–affordable now only by a lavish oligarch). HG/BSK left the east coast for Colorado and Santa Fe. There were scores of liquor stores and in many neighborhoods you could buy wine, spirits and beer in supermarkets and drugstores (Santa Fe’s Trader Joe’s had great prices). HG/BSK (and family) spend months at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home (dazzling oceanic views) on Canada’s Prince Edward Island. The Island is a wonder–a true democracy; diverse friendly population –Scotch/Irish heritage mainly;  liberal–with a small and large L–in politics. Being Canadian, folks on the Island are soft spoken and helpful (“Help you load the car, Miss?”). Food is local, seasonal, untainted by chemicals–world famous potatoes, strawberries, sweet corn, asparagus, et., etc.  Seafood is outstanding (lobsters are netted from boats facing HG/BSK’s home). Oysters are among the world’s best and are affordable. PEI’s only flaw is its alcohol policy. Wine and spirits are taxed heavily and are sold in government stores. This raises prices steeply. However, sommelier BSK manages to find drinkable table wine at manageable prices. HG has some happy memories of yesteryear Paris where wine and oysters were laughably cheap and HG overindulged at a wine shop/cafe in Montmartre. No, a younger HG did not stumble.