HUNGRY GERALD

New Year Day marks the end of the holiday season thus the end of Holiday Feasting (but not the end of HG’s every day feasting, of course). Watched large, swift violent scholars bash each other about in the college bowl games. Have never quite figured out the connection between the intellectual ambitions of institutions of higher learning and coaches earning multi-million dollar salaries. HG believes the big time college football factories run very profitable athletic/entertainment businesses fueled by billions in TV contracts (as do the NBA and the NFL). The colleges have an advantage over professional sports as their players are unpaid. Since the majority of these athletes seem to be African-Americans, this leads to some uncomfortable speculation about historic parallels; however, for a day, HG put aside these speculations and enjoyed politically incorrect pleasure. Happy that the midwestern scholars from Ohio State, Michigan State and Wisconsin upended their opponents. Oregon is pure show biz in terrms of uniforms and “hurry up” offense and so HG was glad these entertainers triumphed in decisive fashion. HG put aside grid drama and joined BSK and Dessert Queen Karen K. at the home of their neighbors, Polly B. and David F. Gracious hostess Polly B. presented a big platter of Nova Scotia smoked salmon (some of the best HG ever tasted). Polly said this was a gift from “her husband’s widow.” (Figure that one out, Gentle Readers). The group drank some very good champagne and toasted 2015. The smoked salmon was followed by a savory turkey soup, good bread, excellent cheeses, grapes, green salad. Red wine. Apple pie for dessert. Two ice creams–cinnamon and salted caramel. Talented, generous friends and neighbors dining deliciously in Polly and David’s beautiful home. A fire crackling in the Kiva. A joyous way to begin the new year.

Los Andes is a Peruvian restaurant in Providence. One of HG’s all time favorites. It’s a big restaurant, jam-packed with an astonishingly diverse crowd of diners, all having an uproarious good time. This was the restaurant chosen for Profesore Massimo R.’s birthday dinner and HG/BSK and the Riva family were in high spirits. A big pitcher of very good sangria appeared. But, before sampling, HG and Massimo R. downed some beautifully made (and lethal) Pisco Sours. So good that HG had two. The Pisco Sour (Pisco Brandy, sugar, lime and whipped egg white) is HG’s favorite cocktail. The only other place in North America where you can get an authentic Pisco Sour is San Francisco. Peruvian sailors introduced it to San Francisco during the Gold Rush days. (San Francisco is also the city where you can taste another South American treat, the Ramos Gin Fizz. The venerable Tadich Grill makes it a specialty). The HG/BSK/R group started their meal with two ceviches: Ceviche Clasico (lime juice marinated clams, Prince Edward Island mussels, squid, shrimp and tilapia. Flavored with pureed garlic, and fiery leche de tigre). Ceviche de Pescano: (tilapia marinated in lime juice and cilantro and served with sliced red onion and strips of arugula in a leche de tigre sauce). There were three salads: Causa Limena (whipped potatoes and avocado topped with shredded chicken); a traditional Peruvian salad of sliced hard-boiled eggs adorning slices of purple potatoes; salad a la russe (the Russian salad of cooked vegetables in mayonnaise). Main dishes were powerfully robust and flavorful: Parillada Antica (a huge platter of grilled rib steak; homemade chorizo, marinated chicken thighs and fried yucca); Fricase (pork rib stew in a winy, dark sauce served with rice mixed with melted cheese). Wonderful tastes. A meal fit for a holiday and a birthday celebration.

The Yorkville section of Manhattan (the East 80’s) has gone through many changes. Historically, it had many restaurants serving hearty German food, bakeries specializing in strudel and butchers offering a staggering variety of sausages. Then, during the 1930’s, there was a shift to the dark side when the neighborhood, which housed many Germans, became the center of the Nazi affiliated German-American Bund headed by Fritz Kuhn. The war ended the life of the Bund and the neighborhood once more returned to gemutichkeit and jolly restaurants where HG dined on rollmops (pickled herring wrapped around dill pickles); big, crisp veal schnitzels topped with fried eggs and anchovies; opulent pastries toped with gobs of whipped cream. The real estate developers took over in the 1960’s and Yorkville is now a faceless neighborhood of “luxury” apartments houses. Amid all of the changes one constant has remained: Schaller & Weber. Located since 1937 at 1654 Second Avenue (86th Street), this is the last German butcher shop in Yorkville. It is a splendid institution. Schaller & Weber describes itself as “Masters of Charcuterie.” Accurate description for the delicious treats HG ordered online from them and enjoyed in a lavish choucroute. BSK prepared a pot of sauerkraut enriched by sliced onions, white wine and a touch of olive oil. Lesley R. boiled some tiny potatoes and showered them with chopped dill. Kassler ripchen (smoked pork chops) were warmed in the kraut. Knockwurst, Nurnberger bratwurst, weisswurst were grilled and lightly browned. Six varieties of mustard on the table, Bass Ale. Guinness Stout. White wine. Robiola cheese and grapes for dessert. Limoncello as a digestif. The holiday culinary delights continue.

Sedentary day for HG. Nestled in a comfy upholstered rocking chair, HG watched lots of NFL football on the Riva family’s newly acquired large screen / Hi-Definition TV. Patriots played desultory football in a meaningless game. Chiefs stifled Philip Rivers, the Chargers’ dramatic come-from-behind quarterback (not this time). And, in that northern Wisconsin refrigerator known as Lambeau Field, Aaron Rodgers and the Pack silenced the roar of the Lions. All of this grid drama honed HG’s appetite so it was off to Eli’s Kitchen in Warren, RI, for a major league feast. This is a little gem of a restaurant (seats about 30 people when filled which it usually is). No reservations. A modest wait is obligatory. Just about everything in the restaurant comes from local suppliers. This fresh food hops all over the globe. There are Thai, Indian, Mexican, Salvadoran and New Orleans style dishes on the menu. Vigorous spices. Generous portions. Creative cooking. And, prices are very moderate. HG devoured the ultimate bargain dish: Shrimp and Grits. The vibrant sauce was enriched with house smoked Tasso ham. The shrimp were big and juicy. The grits were creamy. The portion was huge but HG met the challenge with alacrity. The best shrimp and grits HG ever tasted since the wonders of Soul Kitchen in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighborhood. The price of Eli’s Shrimp and Grits: 14 bucks. The restaurant has nice starters including crisp crab beignets and cauliflower in a tingling sweet chile sauce. Check out the Eli’s Kitchen website for the other wonders of the menu. Brunch specials include huevos rancheros (made with carnitas) and a stupendous version of biscuits and gravy. The family meal was made festive by glasses of chilled French sparkling wine and two bottle of good red–a California Syrah and a French Cabernet. Apres feast, the group settled down before the TV to watch Wes Anderson’s wonderful movie, “Grand Hotel Budapest,” An extravaganza of wit and imagination. Perfect way to end the day.

A gem of nature near the Riverside, Rhode Island home of Gifted Daughter Lesley and husband, Profesore Massimo R., is the Tillinghast Estate in Barrington. Owned by RISD (Rhode Island School of Design), this is a gorgeous expanse of wetlands, beach grass, gentle meadows and Narragansett Bay beach. With the sun shining brightly, the Freeman/Riva clan strolled along the beach. Haru F. tossed stones in the water. Little Teru F. examined shells. Pip, the Riva family’s super intelligent and eminently lovable dog, made friends with the many other dogs frolicking in the sand. BSK found some nice pieces of beach glass (they will be added to the vast collection that prominently adorns a Chinese chest in the entryway of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home). Tillinghast Estate is magical and RISD is to be commended for its sensitive stewardship. Back to Riverside to watch the very exciting Sun Bowl contest between Duke and Arizona State, a game decided in the last seconds.HG always roots for Duke (this is satisfying in basketball season). A number of family members attended Duke. One female family member, later a law professor, exemplified the family’s leftist persuasion by leading an action protesting the low pay of workers in the Duke cafeteria. ( The Duke bowl game, alas lost by Duke, was watched on a new TV, a source of controversy, amicably resolved, between the Rivas). Another (gentle) controversy emerged at dinner. Lesley R. used left over brisket from the previous night’s dinner to make one of the most deliciously savory pasta meat sauces HG ever encountered. Lesley R. served it over Pappardelle (broad durum wheat noodles). HG exclaimed about the excellence of the pasta. Massimo R., a highly critical and knowledgeable analyst of Italian cuisine, disagreed and labeled the Pappardelle “mediocre.” (He did commend the sauce and his denigration of the pasta did not prevent him from devouring a large bowl with hearty appetite). Scholarly Massimo did note that the Italian approach to pasta can be excessive. He cited a friend who made a long journey to Naples each month to purchase the family supply of pasta. (He believed the particular water used by the pasta maker made the product superior). HG followed his pasta with green salad and a wedge of Gorgonzola. Dessert was the very good key lime pie baked by young Raphie W., a Riva family pal. It was topped with ample whipped cream (much to HG’s delight). Another happy holiday day and night..

Warm, sunny, cloudless day. HG/BSK, SJ, EM, Haru and Teru; Gifted Daughter Lesley R., were off to that ornament of Providence, RI, Roger Williams Park Zoo. HG hasn’t visited a zoo in some years and was astonished at the beauty of Zebras, Giraffes, Flamingos, Cranes and Boa Constrictors. Much to the delight of the little ones (and the bemusement of adult viewers), the Elephant performed some necessary functions in what could only be described as elephantine proportions. The group found the lethal grace of the Snow Leopard mesmerizing and the Red Panda hit new heights of cuteness. The zoo, for a few hours,turned our group into children. Happy, wondering children. In the evening, Lesley R. outdid herself in the kitchen and produced a dinner that can only be described as deeply satisfying. Tender brisket in an assertive, rich tomato licked sauce. Ultra-tender Fennel braised in butter and stock. Haricot verts stir fried with shallots and herbs. Moroccan carrot salad, redolent with cumin and cinnamon. And, as a crowning glory, SJ made his state of the art mashed potatoes, a lighter than air balance of potatoes, salt butter and cream. Profesore Massimo R. poured three splendid Italian reds: A Barolo, a Montepulciano and a Chianti. A pause. And, then came desserts: A tart/sweet cranberry tart in a walnut crust (baked by Lesley R.) flan (left over from the previous evening); strudel (baked by friend/neighbor Diane). A big bowl of whipped cream. Vintage port. Grappa. Limoncello.This is the kind of meal HG loves: Abundant, Powerful tastes. Perfect balance of the rich and austere, the bitter and the sweet. The kind of meal Lesley R. produces with no histrionics and little fuss. HG is a proud Pop.

Christmas.Day began with warmed Panettone, marmalade and coffee. Rain ceased. Sun appeared. Lovely meandering walk around the Riverside, RI, shore following the excitement of present opening. Imaginative gifts. Mexican good luck amulets from Gifted Daughter Lesley R. A large collection of mini photo cards (created by Exquisite Maiko) depicting the family and little ones. SJ gave HG Geechie Boy grits and some other culinary wonders including a bottle of handcrafted rye whiskey. Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia displayed one of her distinctive talents by fashioning a book cover for HG which satirized hilariously one of HG’s traditional and well-worn Christmas jokes. The traditional gifts of books, carefully curated, from Lesley and Massimo R: A winter’s worth of stimulating reading. A beautiful sweater and a colorful watch from BSK. Colorful socks from Lesley R. (HG receives them with joy every Christmas). This just skims the surface. Lots of generosity, originality. And, love. Dinner was a replay of the Seven Fishes with a happy addition. SJ, The Latkes King, made a big batch of crisp potato pancakes (a bow to our collective Jewish heritage). HG covered five raw Dutch herring filets with chopped onion. Gave them a squeeze of lemon and a shower of ground pepper. Flanked them with SJ’s latkes and sour cream. Drank cold half-and-half. Also managed to knock off some smoked yellowfin tuna gilded with very good, fruity olive oil. Happy jingles, one and all.

Feast of the Seven (approximately) Jewish (almost) Fishes. The HG/BSK family borrows from the Italian Catholic tradition of a seven fish feast on Christmas Eve. BSK and Gifted Daughter Lesley R. are skilled hands with chowders, oyster stews, etc. HG specializes in sautéed and fried fish. But, on Christmas Eve, the family feasts on the smoked fish products of Russ & Daughters, the venerable shop on New York’s Lower East Side. As usual, SJ was the first person on line, waiting for the store to open at 9 AM, Dec. 24 (the line grows to as many as 200 hungry New Yorkers). Here’s what SJ provided: Velvety, gently saline, raw Dutch herring (this is seasonal and is only found at R & D and Grand Central Oyster Bar); Gaspe Nova Scotia smoked salmon; Pastrami cured smoked salmon; sable; red salmon caviar from Alaska; smoked yellowfin tuna; paddlefish caviar (from USA); Japanese wasabi Tobiko caviar (flying fish roe); whitefish salad. Accompanying these wonders were Lesley R.’s sublime blini and gossamer thin crepes. Plus traditional bialys and bagels, of course. Scallion cream cheese. Horseradish cream cheese (disappointingly bland). Sour cream. Creme fraiche. Sliced and chopped sweet onion. Kalamata olives. Capers. Bubbie’s Pickles. Lemon wedges. Two salads–hearts of palm and cherry tomatoes; celeriac in lemony mayonnaise. To drink: White wine, Bass Ale, Guinness Stout. Finale: Limoncello. Chocolate truffles. Peanut brittle. There is an added benefit. This meal is repeated as a Christmas dinner after an arduous day of opening presents. The day after Christmas Day is when the HG/BSK family schedules a dinner featuring red wines and brisket or osso buco. Eccentric, yes, but eminently satisfying.

A shocking omission in HG’s post: HOLIDAY FEASTING (DAY FIVE). Faithful and knowing readers must have been taken aback that Gifted Daughter Lesley R. omitted pasta from a welcoming Italian dinner for HG/BSK. No, indeed. An error by HG (ah, the vagaries of old age). After the antipasto and before the cheese, Lesley offered steaming bowls of tortellini with ample shavings of parmesan, a most comforting dish. HG remarked upon true excellence of the broth and was told it was Swanson’s Low Sodium. Surprisingly (to HG at least) Swanson’s, a widely distributed supermarket brand, was chosen by a top flight panel of knowing tasters as the best of packaged (or canned) broths. It may replace Trader Joe’s Free Range Chicken Broth on HG/BSK’s pantry shelves. HG reflected that Lesley always creates beautifully balanced Italian meals. Because the Riva family has resided in Italy for various periods, HG/BSK have enjoyed Lesley’s cuisine in Siena, Bologna and Venice. The emphasis was always on local recipes, traditions and ingredients—hearty bresaola, salumi, stuffed pasta in Bologna and seafood in all its delicious forms in Venice. When young Lesley and husband Massimo lived in Siena (before children and before Massimo’s professorship at Brown University) the emphasis was on dining in very good (and very cheap) little restaurants nestled in the Tuscan hills. Many savory memories of mushrooms, truffles, boar sausage and very rare steaks accompanied by beans. Viva Italia!!!

Comfy Amtrak travel to New York and HG/BSK arrived at their Lower East Side hotel room for a rousing reunion with SJ, Exquisite Maiko plus the grand grandkids, Haru and Teru. A walk on East Broadway, a bowl of steaming pork and watercress soup at a Chinese eatery, brief nap, a hot shower and off to Vic’s, Restaurateur Daughter Victoria’s new venture in the same space that housed her Five Points restaurant on Great Jones Street in Noho for more than ten years. Vic’s has had much buzz because of ecstatic reviews (mentioned by HG in a previous post). When HG/BSK arrived at Vic’s they were dazzled by the new decor. Simple, Warm. Welcoming. Exposed brick. Flattering light. A ceiling that muffles much noise but allows enough to create a lively atmosphere. Tables and chairs that evoked an elegant farmhouse. And, there was Victoria, looking svelte and fashionable. She joined HG/BSK at a corner table and a perfect meal made stately progress. Chef Hillary Sterling combines imagination, precision, technique with an appreciation for down to earth tastes that evoke Italian countryside trattorias and eateries nestled on Mediterranean beaches. Her first creation HG/BSK enjoyed was a platter of crisp fried sweet onions dusted with parmesan and dried tomatoes. Pure, simple deliciousness that hit all the right notes of salty, sweet and crunchy. This was followed by little neck clams, pistachios, cannelloni beans and lovage in an intense clam broth. The sea theme continued with smoky, juicy grilled sardines adorned with thin shaved curls of baby carrot. The refreshing white wine was put aside and a fruity red was poured as three different pasta tastings were introduced. First, there was the Roman classic, cacio e pepe prepared with pecorino and parmesan. Then there were “little purses” of delicate pasta filled with ricotta, lemon and hazelnuts. The pasta finale: Tortellini filled with potato and guanciale (pork jowl) in a powerful pork brodo that sang of bacony goodness with remarkably none of the grease. There was just enough appetite left for a shared taste of some lush chocolate and snifters of house concocted limoncello (best HG/BSK ever tasted). Vic’s is a happy restaurant.The diners were visibly and audibly having a good time. And, why not? Splendid food, fair prices, pleasant surroundings, attentive service. HG advice: Reserve in advance. Vic’s is hot.