HUNGRY GERALD

Back in New Mexico where our gardens are ablaze with color. Daffodils, tulips, forsythia, lilac bushes. HG/BSK ambled through the apple orchard which is in full blossom. The fragrance is delicious. Fish are leaping about in the Koi pond and Toby, The Wonder Dog, is leaping in pleasure–delighted at the HG/BSK homecoming. BSK prepared one of HG’s favorite dishes: A roast spatchcocked chicken. BSK marinated the succulent Bell & Evans bird at room temperature in a marinade of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and rosemary. The nicely browned, juicy chicken (and plenty of herbaceous, garlicky juices) was served with BSK’s smashed potatoes. (BSK crushes boiled potatoes with chicken stock and then adds sliced scallions). The next day, HG cut the left over chicken in slivers. Sliced Persian cucumbers, sweet onions, carrots and radishes. Cooked and quickly cooled (under cold water) some Chinese cellophane noodles. Made a dressing of Vietnamese Red Boat Fish Sauce, brown sugar, water, sesame oil and red chile flakes. Mixed everything together, Topped the platter with torn leaves of mint and basil.and a shower of chopped, salted peanuts. A bottle of Sriracha on the table for added heat, Drank cold Anchor Steam Ale with this vaguely Vietnamese dish. Pleasant eating on a warmish spring night.

For the last days of HG/BSK/SJ and family’s Florida sun and sea extravaganza the restaurant of choice has been Keegan’s Seafood Grille in the Indian Rocks neighborhood of St. Petersburg’s Gulf Coast. This super casual place is perfect after a beach day. The atmosphere is laid back and joyous. The smiling waitpersons seem glad to see you. However, there’s nothing careless or slipshod about the food. Doing simple things perfectly takes discipline, And, Keegan’s got a disciplined kitchen staff. Oysters arrive perfectly chilled and perfectly shucked (these are the best Gulf oysters HG has ever encountered). “U-Peel-Um” shrimp arrive warm, firm and bursting with flavor, ready for a bath in melted butter enlivened with hot sauce. Grilled or blackened Grouper and Amberjack taste fresh from the sea. There’s succulent, tender octopus (a signature dish). The octopus is steeped in olive oil and garlic, “charbroiled” and finished on “a hot lava stone.” Some outstanding conch dishes: conch salad, cracked conch, conch fritters. An innovative snack of deep fried Jalapeño peppers stuffed with cream cheese and crab. A Greek influenced dish of shrimp, feta cheese and hot peppers served in a terrine. Fried soft shell crab sandwiches. Gumbo (HG found it equal to N’Awlins’ best). Georgia low country She Crab soup. Oyster stew. There’s very good India Pale Ale on tap (no hard liquor is served, alas). Low prices. High spirits. Honest food. Keegan’s got it all.

HG is rapidly becoming the color of an antique mahogany chest. Ah, that St. Petersburg sun. HG/BSK’s grandson, Handsome Haru, is now a shade of appetizing butterscotch. Adorable granddaughter Teru is bossing everyone around and responding to compliments on her unique cuteness with maidenly reserve. Yes, everyone is having a good time. Today’s big meal of the day is at Pepo’s Cuban Cafe. The casual eatery is reminiscent of the Cuban restaurants HG enjoyed when doing business with real estate clients in the Washington Heights section of Manhattan. (This was where the first wave of Cuban emigres settled in New York City. Their New Jersey choice was Union City). Pepo’s menu features all of the classics—Cubanos (pressed ham, pickle, roast pork and cheese sandwiches); Picadillo, Ropa Vieja, Plantains–and, of course, black beans with white rice or saffron rice. A highlight of the menu is Pernil, slow roasted pork. Pepo’s calls the dish “The Original Pork.” That’s what HG ordered. A big bowl of shredded pork doused with flavorful juices from the roasting pan. The accompanying dish was a platter of saffron rice and black beans. Two salsas–red and green. Every element was perfect. Fluffy rice. Perfectly done beans bursting with a cuminy kick. Pork that captured the gusto of the tropics. And, the portions were super generous. SJ ordered the same dish while everyone else knocked off giant Cubanos. HG drank icy Yerba Mate soda (a sort of Cuban version of Cel-Ray Tonic). HG/BSK are hopeful the thaw in USA-Cuba relations will allow them to soon eat Cuban food in Havana.

Back in New Mexico. Blue skies. Bright sun. Temperatures in the 60’s. Much cooler when the sun goes down making HG/BSK’s living room fireplace a colorful and warming amenity. Delightful reunion with Toby, HG/BSK’s much loved dog. Polly B., neighbor, friend and much lauded photographer, gave HG/BSK a homecoming dinner. This was followed by a brief visit from Antony and Claudia C. (A talented couple: He manages a mutual fund and she’s a journalist-author-radio interviewer). BSK’s magical meat loaf for dinner. HG is taking advantage of the brief stay in the Land of Enchantment by ingesting loads of menudo and green chile smothered enchiladas at favorite neighborhood eateries. Next week HG/BSK will be off to Florida (St. Petersburg) to visit BSK’s 95-year-old Mom. Since it will be Spring Break, HG/BSK will be joined by SJ and family for five days at a beachfront condo. The Brooklynites need to thaw after the vicious, frigid and almost endless Northeast winter. Anticipate much sun, sea and seafood fun in St. Pete.

Another sunny morning (Hey!! Vancouver is going to lose its rep for incessant moisture). Heartened by the rays, HG/BSK drove to the University of British Columbia Botanical Gardens. Founded in 1916, the Gardens cover 110 acres and contain some 12,000 plants. Only a few of the rhododendron were in bloom but HG/BSK gloried in the magnificent magnolias (largest blossoms the duo had ever encountered). Strolled through a forest of soaring (almost skyscraper heights) trees from British Columbia as well as exotic trees from Eastern United States and Asia. The forest floor was carpeted with lush ferns and the sun dappled greenery revealed new visual wonders at every turn. Sun disappeared. Misty rain appeared. HG/BSK spent the afternoon in a Mt. Pleasant coffee shop taking care of various chores on HG/BSK’s laptops. Dinner with Jamie S. and ever-elegant Karen St. John at Pidgin, an inventive restaurant in the Gastown neighborhood (still edgy on its fringes but now a center for trendy fashion and dining). Had some daring (but delicious) things like kohlrabi “dan dan” noodle salad with tofu and almonds; raw scallops with “piquant” radish; pork belly rice bowl with Asian pear kimchi and quail eggs. Only loser was the salmon with apple pistachio puree. The “sous vide” cooking method reduced the salmon to mush, giving it a strong resemblance to Gerber’s Baby Food. But, the misdemeanor was forgotten as the table dipped into a creative dessert of crisp pastry, fruit and sorbet. Atmosphere and service were pleasant with very attractive lighting. (Postscript: In a previous post about Annalena Restaurant, HG noted–with a question mark–the word “panagrattato” as an ingredient in a dish. Bilingual daughter Lesley R. pointed out the word means “breadcrumbs” in Italian. A pretentious flourish by the Annalena menu writer).

The University of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver is, in HG’s opinion, the most beautiful museum in the world. At the risk of being precious, HG would describe the building as a work of visual poetry expressed in concrete. It is a masterpiece by the great Canadian architect, Arthur Erickson. HG/BSK have visited many times and are always astonished. So, on this rare sunny day HG/BSK motored around the beautiful campus and the striking residential areas before arriving at the museum for another visit. The Great Hall has an imposing collection of lofty totem poles from the First Nation villages along British Columbia’s coast. There are also giant hand carved canoes for passage in the seas and rivers as well as giant bowls, spoons and ladles (all fashioned from wood) for use in potlatch feasts. A special rotunda houses a virtuoso example of wood sculpture, “The Raven and the First Men” by First Nations artist Bill Reid. The museum is not devoted solely to the First Nations. There are major collections of South Pacific, African and Chinese art and artifacts. The museum is mind expanding. Of course, this honed HG/BSK’s appetites so the duo had a late lunch at Rodney’s Oyster House in the Yaletown neighborhood. Some two dozen oysters from the British Columbia and Washington coastlines. Wonderful variety of tastes and textures. HG/BSK’s favorites were the deep shelled Kusshi oysters, a new taste discovery for HG/BSK. When asked for the provenance of the Kusshi oysters, the obliging shucker wrote: “Deep Bay Bowser, Baynes Sound, Vancouver Island.” HG/BSK judged the Kusshi as being a worthy competitor of Johnny Flynn’s Colville Bay (Prince Edward Island) wonders for the title “World’s Best Oyster” Tonight, HG/BSK supped in their loaned condo: Pan fried Weisswurst, sauerkraut, wee boiled potatoes, Cornichons, Sweet mustard. Cold Canadian ale. Followed by cheeses and buttered baguette plus a few glasses of red wine. Butter tarts for dessert and (for HG) a snifter of brandy. Finale of a stimulating day.

Off to that wondrous gem of Vancouver, The Public Market on Granville Island. This is one of the great markets of the world–bustling, colorful, well organized. Counters of fresh fish–salmon (incomparable), sole, halibut, etc. Plus specialties like spiny sea urchins (a delight for Uni lovers), salmon caviar, wood smoked salmon (in a separate building about 50 yards away is The Lobster Man for lobster, mussels and oysters). Two large shops offer superb meat. There’s a chicken shop, stall after stall offering flowers, fruit and vegetables from nearby farms. Terra bakes superb baguettes and scones. A tiny shop stocks a variety of milk products—milk, sour cream, yogurt and butter. There are two large operations that sell cheese, fresh pasta, olives, olive oil and everything else necessary for Italian cuisine. A score of shops that sell specialties–Indian spices, Chinese herbs, nuts, chocolate, Canadian wines, pastries (including that Canadian specialty, butter tarts, unavailable in the USA), etc.,etc., ad infinitum. HG/BSK purchased yogurt and fruit (for breakfast), crisp salad greens, tiny potatoes. Baguette from Terra. Thus provisioned, HG/BSK arrived at their favorite shop—-Oyama. The name is Japanese but this is a French-Canadian place that stocks every conceivable variety of sausage, ham, bacon, mustard, pate, terrine, rillette, etc…Plus, three dozen beautifully curated and aged cheeses. It is charcuterie heaven. BSK’s favorite is the delicious pheasant pate while HG relishes the garlic head cheese. Both love the suave duck pate and the perfectly sliced prosciutto (from Parma). Cornichons, sweet mustard, duck and pork rillettes; Bavarian Weisswurst, sauerkraut were added to their order plus camembert and cumin gouda cheese. Lunched at Stockpot, purveyor of great soups. HG had old fashioned chicken noodle while BSK opted for vegetable. Tonight HG/BSK will devour the Oyama charcuterie and cheeses with a big green salad, crusty bread and plenty of red wine. Weisswurst, sauerkraut, little boiled potatoes, cornichons and sweet mustard are scheduled for tomorrow night.

A light mist over Vancouver which did not discourage HG/BSK from visiting the VanDusen Botanical Garden in the Shaughnessy neighborhood. Cherry trees and magnolias in full bloom. Shimmering ponds. Scores of unusual Asian trees. A bright green lawn studded with sculpture. And, one of the world’s greatest collections of rhododendron. Early in Spring so not all were in bloom but some dazzled the eye. Dinner with Jamie S. and Karen at Karen St. John’s townhouse. Jamie and Karen have been taking cooking lessons at the Dirty Apron Cooking School so this was a time to taste two of the dishes they had learned there. The starter was a Hawaii-influenced Ginger Soy Tuna Poke — diced Sushi grade tuna mixed with chopped cucumber, scallions, sesame oil and some other good things. This was served atop a crisp Sesame Rice Cake. A sublime combination of tastes and textures. The main dish was a Macadamia Nut Crusted Halibut—the crust of butter, nuts and bread crumbs perfectly cloaking and enhancing the firm fleshed, juicy fish. Heat and spice were added to the dish via a Chili Coconut Sauce—a sauce which combined the heat of Thai peppers and chopped ginger with the lush sweetness of coconut milk and palm sugar. Dessert was a cooling ice cream and chilled white wine was drunk throughout the meal. HG remarked that although HG/BSK might encounter some very good restaurant meals during their Vancouver vacation, HG doubted anything could top this home cooked meal. HG was right.

Ah, Vancouver. A truly glorious city where HG/BSK once owned both a glorious loft with views of mountains, water and shimmering skyscrapers and then a steel and glass townhouse designed by HG/BSK’s brilliant architect friend, Pablo Rojas. Enjoyed almost a dozen years of bicycling, dining, cooking and absorbing all the special pleasures of this very Asian, very cosmopolitan city where the population is politically leftist, architecturally adventurous, appreciative of the healthy outdoor life, environmentally sensitive….and totally Lucullan in relishing the joys of the table and the glass. Spring comes early to Vancouver. Time for HG/BSK to leave New Mexico chills behind and become immersed in Vancouver cherry blossoms, magnolias, rhododendrons and majestic trees. Kind and generous pal, Jamie S., made his beautiful three story condo townhouse available. Lovely spaces. Mountain and urban vistas. A modern design buff, Jamie has cutting edge furnishings and the definitive collection of Alessi kitchen utensils and table top adornments. Plus a shower/ steam bath that envelops the fortunate occupant with exhilarating streams of water from about eight different directions. If cleanliness is indeed next to godliness, this shower is an attractive homage to the Almighty. The shower washed away all traces of HG/BSK’s plane trip weariness and honed the duo’s appetites. Off to Congee Noodle House in Vancouver’s uber hip Mt. Pleasant neighborhood. HG/BSK ordered their traditional comfort food meal at the eatery (HG/BSK’s loft was located less than a 100 meters away so the duo ate there often): Chef’s Special Chicken (juicy poached white meat chicken with a ginger/garlic/ sesame oil/ scallion condiment); deep fried squares of squid with flecks of hot, dried pepper; Mo Pu bean curd and ground pork (silky bean curd and ground pork in a spicy sauce); bowls of fluffy rice; Tsing Tao Beer. A welcoming feast indeed.

In HG’s various nostalgia drenched accounts of the long deceased Romanian-Jewish restaurants (called “Romanian Broilings”) of New York’s Lower East Side, HG failed to mention that Pastrami, the delectable, peppery smoked meat, was introduced to the United States by these restaurants. The delightful author, Patricia Volk, claims her grandfather, a Romanian-Jewish immigrant and proprietor of a Delancey Street delicatessen/eatery, was the first to serve Pastrami, therefore ushering in happy heartburns for generations of American Jews and discerning non-Jewish fressers. Food historians claim Pastrami derives from Basterma, a dried beef beloved by Turkish warriors who brought the delicacy to Romania. (Pastrami is mentioned, favorably, along with Mamaliga [polenta] and Karenezelach [ground beef, onion, garlic cigar shaped hamburgers] in the rousing Yiddish music hall favorite, “Romania, Romania”.) Alas, first rate Pastrami is now tough to find — beyond the speciality Jewish delis like Katz’s on Houston Street and Langer’s in LA, but the majority of Pastrami being served is commercially made and a pale comparison to the real thing. Patricia Volk’s grandfather started a great tradition. The family fed New York in splendid restaurants for 100 years. Morgen’s (closed in 1985), run by Patricia Volk’s parents, was an HG favorite. Located in the Garment Center, it was always filled with designers, lovely models and cloak-and-suit big shots. (Read Volk’s books, “Stuffed” and “Shocking Life.” Also, don’t miss books by Volk’s pal (and HG/BSK’s) Stephanie Pierson. She’s a world class wit. Her latest is “The Brisket Book.”).