HUNGRY GERALD

Economic doldrums can be healthy for architectural preservation. Two cases in point: Nantucket Island, Mass. and downtown Providence, R.I. When the whaling industry shifted from Nantucket to New Bedford, the island went into an economic depression that lasted for more than a century. The beneficial result is Nantucket’s beautifully preserved architecture. Nantucket Island retains a true 18th Century flavor (one of the factors contributing to astronomical real estate prices). Over the last 50 years, downtown Providence lost its vitality as a financial and retail center. Distinguished (and some flamboyant) commercial buildings were left untouched. There was no economic incentive to tear them down or “modernize.” Thus, Downtown remains virtually intact. It is now thriving. Its innovative shops, excellent restaurants and theaters, are luring thousands of visitors. The city’s various economic incentives seem to have produced beneficial results. HG has had long experience with Providence’s efforts at urban renewal. Some 50 years ago, HG was public relations counsel for the New York real estate investment group that developed a portion of Providence’s South Main Street with assistance from the city. A big success. The housing that was developed has been well maintained and, of course, has risen in value. The street is now lined with stylish shops, restaurants, hair salons, etc.. BSK had a splendid haircut in a salon yesterday and HG/ BSK strolled leisurely. (Very much beguiled by a curvy aluminum chair in an antiques shops window. More sculpture than seating, HG/BSK are debating a self indulgent purchase). Today, HG/BSK wandered through the downtown arts district. Bought a few modest Christmas gifts. Lunched at Ken’s Ramen on Washington Street, a small, very busy Asian restaurant. Besides the ramen which is served with chicken broth that has been simmered for some 30 hours, Ken’s offers pork buns, rice bowls topped with uni, spicy tuna or salmon roe; seared or braised pork bellies; pulled chicken, etc.. Ken’s was out of broth so HG/BSK had some big bowls of Tan Tan Mazeman. These were thick, wavy, al dente noodles mixed with pork bellies and a variety of vegetables. HG/BSK added sesame sauce and Ra-Yu hot sauce. The result was a spicy, hearty dish that was more Chinese than Japanese. Wonderful eating. HG wants to go back and sample some rice bowls and chilled sake. Be warned. Ken’s is cash only and deservedly popular. Be prepared to wait.

The official Rhode Island appetizer (so designated by the state’s Governor and other officials) is breaded, fried Calamari with hot peppers. Indeed, it’s a wonderful way to start a meal. And, the squid, pulled out of the sea near Port Judith, are superior. Lesley R, prepared the official appetizer and it got dinner off to a rousing start. This was followed by a main dish of pasta with chunks of seared, fresh tuna in a tomato based sauce. Savory seaworthiness. What HG found unusual was the pasta shape, called Paccheri: short, thick tubes. HG has usually associated seafood based pasta dishes with thin strands of pasta like linguine. Massimo R., authoritative on almost every aspect of Italian culture, pointed out that linguine is rarely used in Italy. Thick pastas are used in fish dishes while spaghetti is used with clam and shrimp sauces. In any case, Massimo R. insists that pasta be cooked “al dente” to the extreme. HG prefers pasta a bit softer. Not mushy, of course. Massimo’s standard of pasta “doneness” reminds HG of the way steak is served in Paris bistros: seared but raw (and bloody).

Bill Bomster of Stonington, Conn., sells perfect sea scallops, uniquely sweet and fresh tasting. Bomster and his three sons bring back scallops from 10 to 12 day sails into the Atlantic and sell therm from their shop in Stonington. The scallops have become a cult item among seafood lovers at restaurants and markets along the east coast. The big difference is the way Bomster scallops are processed. Working in continuous shifts, the Bomster scallops are rinsed in seawater, vacuum packed and flash frozen within an hour after they are hauled out of the water. Most scallop operations use a “wet” process where the scallops are shelled, iced, treated with chemicals and bleached. The Bomster method produces a superior scallop. Yesterday. BSK and Lesley R. visited the Pawtucket Farmers Market housed in an old mill building (Pawtucket, R.I., is a gritty industrial town, the birthplace of America’s industrial revolution). The Market is thriving and offers a big variety of fresh greens, seafood and other good things. BSK and Lesley bought a variety of mushrooms (including delicious, seldom seen Poplars), salad greens and Bomster scallops, of course. The result was a dinner platter of gently sautéed scallops nestled on fresh greens gilded with very superior first pressing extra virgin Italian olive oil and surrounded by lush mushrooms. A big bowl of quinoa accompanied the dish. A wow. This was followed by ripe Robiolla and Pecorino cheeses, fig jam, Comice pears. White and red wine. Later in the evening, there was salted caramel gelato. A lengthy procession of culinary delights.

HG is rapidly shaking off the effects of pneumonia. It seems transatlantic flights, with their endless delays and unhealthy, enclosed environments, do not agree with the old guy’s respiratory system. However, with the excellent care of the Barrington Urgent Care Center, HG is on the mend. The illness has not impacted HG’s appetite negatively. But, there is serious alcohol limitation. One glass of wine per day. No cheating. HG/BSK have been lunching at Miku, pleasant Japanese restaurant in Barrington, R.I.. Wonderful dragon rolls (eel, cucumber, avocado). Uni is fresh from the sea urchin (you get packaged uni in most sushi bars). Nicely cut tuna and fluke sashimi. Last night, HG/BSK enjoyed a memorable concert at Beneficent Congregational Church in downtown Providence. Beautiful church with good acoustics. The event was the 2015 Advent of Unity Concert–“Sing We All Noel.” The RPM Voices of Rhode Island, a choir directed by Dr. Clarice Laverne Thompson, performed alongside some talented and rousing vocal soloists and instrumentalists. Dr. Thompson is extraordinary. This is an inclusive, diverse, amateur choir. HG/BSK’s beloved daughter, Lesley R., is a member of the choir. Dr. Thompson brings forth from the group religious music that breaks the boundaries of sectarianism. It is pure love and warmth. HG, a card carrying atheist, felt himself illuminated. What, a wonderful antidote to the horrors of misguided religious fanaticism we seem to face daily. HG/BSK, Lesley R.and family, had a post concert feast at Providence Coal Fired Pizzeria. Very good roast chicken wings. broccoli di rabe and Italian sausage. Fresh baby arugula salads. Two pizzas: Another combination of greens and sausage and a vegetarian goat cheese, mushroom and olive creation The big restaurant was filled with young people having a good time. The HG/BSK/Lesley R. family added appreciative sounds to the holiday gaiety.

HG/BSK are in Rhode Island. Daughter Lesley R., son-in-law Massimo R. and granddaughter Arianna are besieged by work and academic pressures. (Lesley is also rehearsing with a gospel choir for a forthcoming holiday concert). So, BSK is doing the cooking. Dinner is in good hands. BSK is relying upon BSK’s kitchen classics — “Green soup”, a savory puree of broccoli, parsley and assorted greens; chicken curry; mapo tofu. These are dishes that span cultures and continents. They are welcome at the end of chilly December days. Massimo has enriched the cuisine by bringing home excellent prosciutto di Parma and ripe cheeses from an Italian grocery shop. When workloads lessen, HG is looking forward to oyster (and little neck clam) feasts at Hemenway’s in Providence and the Bristol Oyster Bar in Bristol. See how the Rhody bivalves compare to the wonders HG devoured in Reims recently. HG is sure the Rhody clams will be outstanding (HG has never had a tasty French clam. French bivalve cultivation genius has focused on the oyster). While in Rhode Island, HG will be sure to eat plenty of the Rhody specialty: Fried squid with hot peppers. The squid hauled in off Port Judith are incomparable.

All of HG/BSK’s French dining has been done in Paris during numerous visits beginning in 1967. Still love eating there though prices keep moving upwards, good brasseries have virtually disappeared and homey bistros are becoming a rarity. After spending a week dining in Reims and its immediate vicinity, HG has come to a number of conclusions, some surprising. The oysters at Boulingrin (two visits) and Le Bocal (one visit) are better than any oysters HG has ever slurped (BSK agrees). Proximity to Normandy and other oyster regions? Le Bocal is better (and much cheaper) than any seafood restaurant in Paris. Anna-S is as good as most of the new cutting edge bistros in Paris (most helmed by young Japanese chefs). Some Reims dishes are outshone by their Paris counterparts. Rare roast duck breast at Le Madelon is far inferior to the version served by Chez Georges in Paris. Boulingrin’s skate with capers doesn’t compare to the version served by Rech in Paris. Oddly, cheese in Reims is not great. In one restaurant HG had to send back a round of St. Marcellin. Ice cold and as hard as a hockey puck. A camembert bought at a cheese shop disappointed. The bread and rolls served in Reims restaurants are very good, better than Paris. HG has never had a great choucroute in Paris. The choucroute (a huge, lavish affair HG spied at a neighboring table at Boulingrin) looked like a class act. Will have it if good fortune brings HG back to Reims. If you did not have enough reasons already to want to visit Reims, then here is another: champagne. Reims is in the heart of champagne country and cafes and restaurants offer a staggering array of bubbly ambrosia, many from small local vineyards which one will never see in the US. Lots of splendid bottles priced at 30 Euros. HG/BSK drank some very good champagne for 7 Euros a glass (a very generous pour) in a charming cafe. A pleasant cocktail hour.

Some pleasant news for a change. The beloved Bialy is making a comeback (at least in New York, although they never really traveled beyond that city’s borders). The Bialy (full name is “Bialyostoker kuchen”) is a roll with an onion flavor (plus some fried onions clinging to the surface) and a chew like the crust of a very good pizza. It was created by Jews toward the end of the 19th century in the Polish city of Bialyostok. Jewish immigrants brought it to New York’s lower east side at the turn of the century and it quickly became a New York staple. For many decades, New York’s Jewish and non-Jewish working population started their day fueled by coffee and a “Bialy with a shmear (cream cheese).” Sadly, true bialys virtually disappeared a few years ago. Now, it’s back. Kossar’s, once the only reliable bialy source in New York (founded in 1936), closed but will reopen this year at a new and expanded space on Grand Street. Meanwhile (according to Jewish food authority Leah Koenig), Hot Bread Kitchen is selling good bialys at various food markets. In Brooklyn, Shelsky’s (the appetizing store) and Mile End (the delicatessen) are offering authentic bialys. Bagels, of course, are now universal. Horrors like chocolate chip bagels and blueberry bagels can be found at every supermarket. Of course, these bear no resemblance to the old fashioned boiled and then baked New York bagel. HG was never fond of bagels, either those of yesteryear or today’s aberrations. Always loved bialys. Kossar’s promises a revamped website for efficient ordering of bialys online. Happy news.

It can’t be a true Thanksgiving celebration without turkey. The HG/BSK/RIVA family ate excellent pork loin on Thanksgiving Day in the beautiful French city of Reims. Very good but it didn’t provide the ambience of tradition provided by the noble bird. Not to worry. The family had Thanksgiving Redux a day after arriving in Rhode Island (following the usual exhausting air journey of delays, uncomfortable seating, vile food, etc.). And, the festive meal took no more effort than the judicious use of the oven and microwave. The Rivas’ good friends and neighbors in their town of Riverside, R.I., are Ivan and Diane. They are both doctors serving the medical needs of the poor and homeless. Diane is a splendid cook. Ivan is a vegetarian but not an ascetic. He is a collector of Scotch single malt whiskys (He once gave HG a tasting of flights of these extraordinary spirits). Diane left a total Thanksgiving meal in the Riva kitchen: Turkey (of course); dressing; gravy; Brussels sprouts; cranberry sauce; a puree of carrots and ginger; haricots vert enhanced with sour cherries; crusty roast potatoes. Arianna’s friend, Jake (a student at Johnson and Wales) baked a pumpkin pie for dessert. Wonderful homecoming meal. Much to be thankful for.

Paris brasseries have entered a sad period. Once delightful places like La Coupole, Vaudeville, Bofinger, Balzar, Flo have been purchased by giant restaurant chain-conglomerates and now roll out industrialized food. Glittering decor and fresh oysters can still be relied upon. But, that’s it. The old time hip, lively and happy atmosphere has disappeared. Only Le Stella in the 16th keeps the old traditions. Its carte is a virtual parade of traditional dishes: Tete de veau; steak tartare; sole meuniere; choucroute; Iceland herring; steak frites; ile flottante, etc. The affluent residents of the 16th have impeccable manners but restraint is cast off when they confront Stella’s vast plateau de fruits de mer. In Reims, the Brasserie du Boulingrin maintains the old brasserie spirit. Art deco interior. Smoked glass and mirrors. Red leatherette banquettes. Young, smiling waitpersons. Dinner conversations are animated but the noise level is kept at a civilized pitch (This seems characteristic of French restaurants in contrast to their noisy American counterparts). On a second visit, HG sipped a cold, dry Muscadet, while devouring a dozen big, briny oysters. This was followed by very generous servings of sole meuniere. Two large fish were deboned deftly by the young woman serving HG/BSk. The filets were gilded by spoonfuls of buttery lemon cooking juices. Served with bowls of buttered boiled potatoes dusted with parsley. Dessert was, in keeping with Boulingrin’s generosity, dinner plate-sized creme brûlées. HG sipped an after dinner glass of cold Mirabelle and reflected upon the good fortune of having a splendid wife, a loving family and an appetite geared to the delights of old fashioned brasserie dining. HG interrupted this happy contemplation with a bout of severe envy as he watched a choucroute garnie presented to a young man at an adjoining table. The platter of kraut, sausages and pork was kept warm under a glass dome. This single portion seemed large enough to feed a platoon of Prussian Hussars. HG vowed to sample it if HG ever makes it back to Reims and Boulingrin.

One of the sillier American traditions is the Presidential “pardon” of a turkey on Thanksgiving Day. President Obama acknowledged the goofiness but continued the ceremony this week. There were no pardoned turkeys for the assembled HG/BSK family in Reims as there was no roast turkey for the big bout of gluttony. The family decided there was no way to get a big, juicy American-style turkey in Europe. An unhappy memory still lurked: Some years ago, Profesore Massimo R.’s American students at the University of Bologna arranged a Thanksgiving turkey feast at a favorite Bologna pizzeria. The proud pizzeria proprietor presented a glistening brown bird with an Italian flourish. However, one taste banished dreams of a Norman Rockwell-type farmhouse feast. This wasn’t a turkey. A buzzard? Vulture? Sea gull that had lost its way? Inedible. With this experience in mind, a loin of pork (roasted in milk atop the oven from a favorite recipe by Marcella Hazan) was the main dish at Thanksgiving dinner for eight (HG/BSK; daughter Lesley R.; son-in-law Massimo R.; granddaughters Arianna and Sofia; plus two beautiful young women, Sofia’s fellow students at Reims’s Sciences Po; one young woman from Brazil and the other from Chile). Side dishes were traditional: brussels sprouts with bacon; creamed spinach, dressing, mashed potatoes. Lavish amounts of gravy. Preceded by a big array of terrines and pates. Dessert was apple tart and sour cherry tart. Since we were in champagne country, the meal started with bubbly and then proceeded to Fleurie, Moulin a Vent and Brouilly. Thankful for family, fun and food.