HUNGRY GERALD

Pancakes, specially flanked by bacon and gilded with maple syrup, comprise a sumptuous breakfast. But, savory ground turkey, seafood, vegetable pancakes (or fritters) are great for dinner (Or “supper” as they call evening dining on Prince Edward Island). BSK makes wondrous pancakes from ground turkey, zucchini, scallions and Middle East spices bound together with a beaten egg. HG complements them with a garlicky sour cream/yogurt sauce heady with zaatar, cumin, sumac and coriander. (You can find the recipe for the pancake/fritters and sauce in “Jerusalem”, a Yotam Ottolenghi cookbook.) BSK used daughter-in-law Maiko Sakamoto’s recipe for the Korean seafood pancakes BSK made last night. BSK mixed flour, egg, baking powder, canola oil, shredded cabbage, chopped scallions. Added thinly sliced local sea scallops to the batter. Fried the pancakes to a glistening crisp. HG made Japanese “Bulldog” sauce: Ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, soy sauce, mirin, sugar. BSK steamed a batch of local asparagus. Drank Canadian pinot grigio. The pancake recipe can be altered by using sliced onion instead of cabbage and shrimp, lobster or crabmeat for the seafood element. HG’s preference is to add a bunch of shucked oysters to the batter. In HG/BSK’s continual homage to cross cultural dining, dessert was authentic Middle Eastern pistachio Halvah, imported from Lebanon and sold at PEI’s Atlantic Super Stores.

HG has no guilty pleasures. Finds porn boring. Ditto thrillers and other best selling fiction. Franchise fast food is inedible. French fries are boring. The crap that lines the snacks and candy aisles of supermarkets are a disgrace. HG hates Coca Cola and all of its vile, chemical relatives. The exception is Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray tonic, the appropriate companion of pastrami sandwiches. HG is by no means a health addict. Though 90% of HG/BSK’s diet consists of fish, vegetables, salad greens, grains and pasta, HG/BSK do eat (with pleasure) an occasional well marbled steak, lamb and pork chops. HG ignores cardiological wisdom by indulging in a number of lo-cal but high cholesterol foods like oysters, shrimp and Mexican menudo, the addictive tripe stew that is featured at restaurants near HG/BSK’s New Mexico home. When in France, HG dines on artery cloggers like brains, kidneys and sweetbreads. (Strangely, never eat them on the rare occasions when they appear on American restaurant menus). When resident on Prince Edward Island, HG eats lots of frog legs (Imported from Vietnam and sold at Sobey’s Supermarket). HG wrote about the delicacy in a recent post. Gifted Daughter Lesley R. is concerned. Always well informed on health matters (She’s marketing and communications manager at a major Rhode Island hospital). Lesley R.has warned HG that Asian raised frog legs pose a health risk since they are often raised and processed in unsanitary conditions. While gratified by Lesley R.’s concern, HG will continue to eat these delicious morsels. Will be closing in on age 87 in a few months. Something will kill HG in the not too distant future. Might was well be frog legs.

Yes, HG is a great fan of the cocktail hour. In HG’s younger days, 5PM began the imbibing of extra dry gin martinis (known as “icy steelies” or “silver bullets”). HG recalls knocking off three super sized cocktail hour martinis at Michael’s Pub, the Hotel Drake Bar and the Russian Tea Room (in that vodka proud room, 100 proof vodka instead of gin), and remaining upright and in command (relatively) of talking and good manners. The martini diet made HG amorous and led to adventures (good and bad). Dorothy Parker summed up this aspect of martini drinking: “One martini. Two at most. Three, I’m under the table. Four, I’m under the host”. Now in his late 80’s, HG has pushed the cocktail hour to 6PM. Being still in love with BSK, wife of almost 53 years, HG is not adventurous but relishes 6PM cocktail hour with the delightful woman. BSK is a devotee of white wine with a splash of Aperol, ice and a lemon squeeze. HG sticks to stronger drink. PEI distilled Myriad View gin (wonderful botanicals) with Pernod or Campari. Negroni composed of one-third Jack Daniel’s, one third dry vermouth, one third sweet vermouth, lemon juice. Vodka with Campari. Tequila, half and half with dry vermouth, lots of lime juice. 6PM begins sunset over the sea. Since PEI is far north, the sunset drama continues until 10PM. Miles Davis music adds another dimension to alcohol-fueled pleasure. Don’t miss those traditional, abundant martinis.

Much to celebrate. Granddaughter Arianna’s graduation from Brown University. (See below for photo of the gorgeous young woman). Equally gorgeous granddaughter Sofia’s birthday and homecoming from France. BSK’s birthday (and the end of BSK’s maarathon feat of motoring). Daughter Lesley R., a creative dynamo in the kitchen (and in her professional career) was the majordomo of a sumptuous feast. A number of friends and neighbors were invited. All were dazzled by the buffet: Sliced Italian sausage; San Daniele ham wrapped around breadsticks; a room temperature salad of penne, roasted eggplant, tomatoes, anchovies and capers; mozzarella and tomatoes drizzled with extra virgin Italian olive oil; a cheese platter with grapes and superb Seven Stars bread. Pre-feast Tito’s vodka for HG. Prosecco, beer, white wine, red wine complemented the food. Lesley R. dazzled HG with Vietnamese Bahn Mi sandwiches. She marinated flank steak in Vietnamese fish sauce and other ingredients. Made a slaw of cabbage, pickled radishes in a Vietnamese dressing. Soft rolls smeared with Sriracha/Mayonnaise. Thin slices of the roasted steak. A layer of slaw. A sandwich that was a flavor explosion. Nearby neighbors (who are also close friends) arrived with their son and daughter. The lady is of Armenian extraction and a distinguished cook (among many other talents). She made two dishes that made HG wonder at the glories of Armenian cuisine: A savory dip known as “Muhammahrah” and a molded bulgur salad called “Ich” (Yes, the spelling is correct). Her son baked a great Key lime pie and another neighbor contributed a tasty strawberry rhubarb pie. Daughter made a big bowl of whipped cream. Husband? Supervised the music that enhanced the festivities. HG finished this perfect day of food, drink and love by watching the Warriors (HG is in awe of their ball movement) while sipping flutes of icy Limoncello. The painter and social figure Gerald Murphy (A friend of Fitzgerald, Hemingway, Picasso and other creative forces) said: “Living well is the best revenge.” HG presumes the revenge is aimed at the brevity of our time on earth and the inevitable pains and distresses of life. HG agrees. With aid of BSK and HG’s wondrous family, HG takes revenge daily.

The end of a 2,100 mile bout of virtuoso long distance driving by BSK. The magical woman is nervous if HG drives. Thus, HG (advised by Toby, The Wonder Dog) acted as navigator and music selector. On arrival at the Riverside, R.I., home of the Riva family, a warm welcome from Lesley (HG/BSK’s multi-talented daughter), Massimo (Handsome and brilliant Profesore/Uficiale son-in-law); Arianna and Sofia (Gifted and beautiful granddaughters). The excellent traveler, Toby, was glad to be out of the car and renewing a loving and lively friendship with Pip, the Rivas’ charming and brilliant lady dog. HG was famished so broke away from embraces and was off to Blount Clam Shack adjacent to the nearby Crescent Park Carousel. The “merry go round” is a beautifully restored antique. A bowl of New England Clam Chowder. The real deal. Lots of clams and lots of sea flavor. As usual, dinner at the Riva’s was an epic. It was served outdoors with wonderful views of the setting sun over the waters of Narraganset Bay. A pre-dinnder vodka for HG. Then, chilled Prosecco with cantaloupe and San Daniele ham. A huge bowl of linguine with clams (Rhody clams are the best). Spectacular bread from the Seven Stars Bakery soaked up the flavorful sauce of olive oil, tomatoes, garlic and clam juice. White wine flowed. Then, a switch to Dolcetto d’Alba with a cheese platter and salad. HG had more red wine with Belgian Almond Butter Cookies. HG had a finale of icy Limoncello. Sharing a bed with BSK and Toby (A quiet and serene bedmate), HG, surfeited with family love, wondrous food and ample alcohol, slept like a babe.

Motoring on the Pennsylvania Turnpike. Fourth day of HG/BSK’s cross country voyage. The promising local, funky eateries demanded a long, circuitous detour from the highway. So, HG/BSK stopped at the giant West Somerset service area. Dining choices: Popeye’s; Pizza Hut; Burger King; Starbucks and a pretzel counter. HG/BSK opted for Popeye’s. HG recalled that Virgil Thompson, the late, great composer, lyricist and music critic who lived in New York’s Chelsea Hotel on W. 23rd Street loved Popeye’s. His guests (and they were a very distinguished, very international group) were often treated to a dinner of Popeye’s fried chicken, red beans and rice, mashed potatoes and gravy, cole slaw and biscuits with honey. Gracious Virgil also provided his guests with abundant icy Martinis and plentiful white wine.(Virgil got his Popeye’s spread at the chain’s W. 23rd branch where he was a beloved figure). HG/BSK emulated Virgil and ate spicy fried chicken, cole slaw, biscuits, red beans and rice. No alcohol, unfortunately, but good watermelon juice. Pleasant food (Far, far better than despicable KFC). However, HG/BSK agreed that when it comes to chicken, HG/BSK far prefer BSK’s sauteed boneless-skinless chicken thighs or BSK’s chicken breast paillards (Flattened chicken breasts, dipped in beaten egg and dusted with fine Japanese Panko crumbs. They’re quickly fried and get a sauce of melted butter, capers and lemon juice). The service area at West Somerset was jammed. Popeye’s had the longest lines (with the most efficient and cheery counter personnel). While waiting in line, HG made a quick social analysis. Popeye’s clientele was 80% African-American, 20% Caucasian. Burger King was favored by and equal mix of white old folks, Latinos, Asian-Americans, African-Americans. Pizza Hut was favored by a racially and ethnically mixed crowd buying pizza for hungry kids. Starbucks seemed to attract an elite crowd of young white people. The pretzel stand dispensed salty and sugar horrors to Trump fans.

Yes, down home Jewish treats are available in the quintessentially midwestern city of Indianapolis. Shapiro’s Jewish Delicatessen and Bakery is a block long paradise of corned beef, rye bread, pastrami, tongue, chopped liver, Reuben sandwiches, knishes, bagels, lox, cream cheese, matzo balls,chicken noodle soup, ad infinitum. HG/BSK stopped at the 110 year old institution on the the third day of HG/BSK’s cross country motoring voyage. Shapiro’s is conveniently located off Highway I-70 (close to the Colts football stadium). Shapiro’s is huge with a big parking lot adjacent. The food is splendid. HG had a big platter of corned beef, tongue and pastrami. Rye bread. Mustard. Russian dressing. Sour pickles. Cole slaw. Potato salad. Plus Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray Tonic. What more could HG, a Bronx product, desire? The hungry chap was in heartburn heaven. BSK was more moderate. A Reuben sandwich, cole slaw, lemonade. Plus, a surprisingly good fresh fruit salad. There were enough left overs for HG/BSK to have a pleasant dinner in their La Quinta room in Columbus while watching Lebron and Stephon do battle.

As Robert Burns put it: “The best laid plans of mice and men aft gang agley.” So, forget about HG’s last post about HG/BSK’s high cal road food trip. Different route and had to make some tweaks. Stopped at Tyler’s Barbecue on Fairmont Boulevard off Rt. I-40 In Amarillo, Texas. Ate real deal Texas barbecue brisket. (Jane and Michael Stern, The Road Food folk, and Texas Monthly love this little place). It’s neat, sweet and clean. Folks are super friendly,. And, the brisket. The best. Smoky and melt-in-the-mouth tender. HG/BSK relished their super generous brisket sandwiches (with plenty of those burnt ends that Calvin Trillin loves); a perfect, not too sweet cole slaw; smoky beans; pickles; jalapeños and flavorful sauces, both hot and sweet. Drank icy pink lemonade. Thought about our gifted pal, Stephanie Pierson, author of “The Brisket Book” (Buy it immediately and get busy brisketing). Stephanie and her delightful, witty partner, Eric Silver, just spent some days with us in New Mexico, As you can imagine, these were days of fun, frolic and feasting. The generous duo regaled HG/BSK with wonderful wines and The Dessert Queen, neighbor Karen K., brought sublime carrot cake and brownies (from Katherine Hepburn’s recipe) to the feasts. Since Stephanie is the acknowledged world authority on brisket, HG/BSK hopes Tyler’s brisket is in her future. For her to miss it would be like an authority on modern art ignoring Picasso.

HG/BSK and Toby, The Wonder Dog, will soon take off on a four day motor trip across mid-America. Santa Fe to Riverside,R.I.. Hopefully, HG/BSK will get there in time for a day of family festivities celebrating brilliant granddaughter Arianna Riva’s graduation from Brown University. Toby is anticipating a happy reunion with Pip, the Riva family’s super smart and charming dog. HG has spent some time researching the best places to eat that are close to the highways HG/BSK will travel. A good source for down home goodies is Michael and Jane Stern’s Roadfood Website. Their recommendations are not for the weight watcher or cardiologist. Big emphasis on lush burgers, mammoth breakfasts, barbecue and three-inch high pies. Oklahoma seems promising. There’s Sid’s Diner with their famous onion fried burgers and Coneys (That’s what hot dogs are called in the western provinces). The tube steaks indulge in overkill. The grilled Coneys are smothered in chile, fried onions and cheese. HG can hardly wait. Sid’s is near Oklahoma City. A bit further east in Tulsa, HG is looking forward to grilled flounder and hush puppies at White River Fish Market (BSK will join HG in devouring these treats). HG/BSK will go through Kansas City, Mo.. The duo will ignore Calvin Trillin’s barbecue mecca, Arthur Bryant’s, and concentrate on Stroud’s for America’s best pan-fried chicken. HG anticipates some conflict when HG/BSK approach Indianapolis HG has promised BSK there will be no long schlep from the highway or their motel lodgings in search for some obscure purveyor of local, esoteric delicacy. However, when HG/BSK approach the Indiana metropolis, HG will plead the case for a visit to Shapiro’s at its downtown location. Shapiro’s is a 110-year hold Jewish “kosher style” delicatessen. Pastrami, corned beef, real rye bread, matzo ball soup. You get the picture. Long regarded as one of the ten best Jewish delicatessens in the land. Certainly, it is the only Jewish delicatessen with biscuits and gravy on the menu. BSK’s birthday will be celebrated at one of the very good Pennsylvania Dutch restaurants in Allentown, Pa. Expect full reports from HG on HG/BSK’s All-American road fressing.

HG is referring to the interior of animals (aka offal). Brains, kidneys, livers, sweetbreads, tongue, hearts, intestines, tripe (stomach lining). These wonderful tastes seem to have disappeared from mainstream restaurant menus (as a corollary the interest in “head-to-tail” eating has been growing within the ranks of sophisticated and adventurous eaters). Is it the work of the health police on the alert for elevated cholesterol levels? Or have Americans become so spoiled that offal is seen as a remnant of poverty cuisine? The Europeans (especially the French) continue to devour these good things. When in Paris, HG eats lots of rognons (kidneys) in mustard sauce or grilled until the interiors are pink. A very good Left Bank bistro, La Ribouldinge, makes a specialty of offal. Pharamond serves classic tripes a la mode de Caen (Very good. However, HG prefers the Mexican tripe stew known as Menudo. As noted in many posts, HG is a fan of two versions of Menudo served at restaurants in HG’s New Mexican neighborhood: Green Chile Menudo at El Parasol and Red Chile Menudo at Sopaipilla Factory). HG’s daughter Victoria and husband chef Marc Meyer tried to introduce Menudo to New York diners at their sparkling Mexican restaurant, Rosie’s, in the East Village. Few takers, Removed from menu, alas. Sweetbreads (thymus glands) are on menus everywhere and are one of HG’s favorite treats. Best version ever was at the Oak Room of New York’s venerable Algonquin Hotel. Sauteed sweet breads with a slice of Virginian ham and an exuberant amount of Sauce Bearnaise. Pan broiled medium rare calf’s liver (enlivened with a dash of sherry vinegar) is served in scores of Paris bistros. Delicious. When HG lived in Colorado (first on a mountain horse ranch and then in Denver), HG often had splendid liver with onions and bacon at 240 Union Restaurant in nearby Lakewood. Very Parisian. 240 Union is a great, creative restaurant (A must if you ever travel to Denver or on your way to ski country). HG checked 240’s current menu. No liver. Must have met the same fate as Rosie’s Menudo. In bygone days, liver was a staple item on New York menus. Well done liver, onions and bacon (liver too well done for HG’s taste) on diner menus. Thick slabs of calf’s liver at steak houses. Chopped liver, of course, at Jewish eateries. Broiled chicken livers over saffron rice at Greek restaurants. The Schrafft’s chain, a bastion of WASP cookery, served an appetizing dish of gently sautéed chicken livers over softly scrambled eggs. Sammy’s Romanian, the flourishing homage to garlic and chicken fat Jewish cuisine, once served broiled chicken livers with unborn eggs. The livers are still on the menu but the eggs have disappeared. Only time HG ever had gizzards in New York was when SJ took HG to a little Japanese place on the West Side. Good, But, not as good as the duck gizzards in Paris. Rarely see brains in black butter in New York. Loved it at Le Veau D’or in New York (no longer on the menu but you can get a good version at Chez Napoleon in the theater district). HG ordered the dish at a nice restaurant in Paris 16e. Thoughtful owner was surprised an American ordered brains. Wanted to make sure HG knew what to expect. HG tapped HG’s skull. Owner laughed. Big, savory platter arrived. Tongue is still available at the less than a dozen (used to be a hundred) Jewish delicatessens in New York. Best tongue dish ever was served at long closed Al Cooper’s near New York’s garment center. Thick poached slice with creamed spinach and hot mustard. Sublime. Hearts have disappeared everywhere. Not for the delicate eater. In HG’s impecunious youth, HG ate big bowls of calf hearts stewed with onions, garlic and red wine. Hearty dish (to say the least). A staple at the funky far West Side French bistros that catered to the French seamen off the Ile de France and other liners. A.J. Liebling recounted in his book “Between Meals” that he would eat this dish when he was young and cash poor in Paris. Tete de Veau (calf’s head) is a feature of many French eateries.The dish is shunned by Americans. HG loves it. It consists of poached brains, tongue, mouth lining, etc.and other delectables from the calf’s head. Served with a Sauce Gribiche enlivened with chopped cornichons and capers. (Sauce Gribiche is a version of mayonnaise where mustard, cooked egg yolks and vinegar are emulsified until creamy). HG draws the line when it comes to intestines. Tried chitterlings in Harlem. Vile. The fecal stench of French Andouillette is off putting. (SJ once made the error of ordering them at Le Stella, a favorite Paris brasserie. Was unpleasantly shocked The funny food blogger Grubworm,calls the sausage:’the dish of death”). Innards do not appear on HG/BSK’s dinner table. Though a very adventurous cook and eater, BSK does not like innards. You can take the girl out of the midwest, but you can’t., etc. etc.