HUNGRY GERALD

Chong Qing House in Seekonk, Mass., is a quick ten minute drive from the Riva family residence in Riverside, R.I.. It is a small Chinese restaurant occupying a space in a nondescript strip mall. Blink and you’d miss it. That would be a misfortune if you are a fan of authentic Szechuan and Hunan food. HG likes it better than any Szechuan-Hunan restaurant in New York or Vancouver. (In the absence of a trip to Hong Kong, Taiwan and the Chinese mainland, these cities have been HG’s ideal of fiery Chinese food heaven. Oddly, tiny Seekonk has displaced these metropolises in HG’s dreams of Szechuan-Hunan). Today, granddaughters Arianna and Sofia R. joined HG at Chong Quing for a festive, fiery luncheon. As usual, HG over-ordered: Spicy Lamb in Casserole (two red peppercorns denoting level of heat); Salt and Pepper Shrimp (This was the best ever version of the dish. Juicy shrimp delicately breaded and served on a bed of crispy rice noodles dotted with diced scallions. No red peppercorn designation); Shredded pork with smoked bean curd (no peppercorns); Sour String Beans with minced pork (no peppercorns); Steamed Pork Dumplings (no peppercorns). Despite the lack of peppercorn designations, every dish (except the dumplings) packed loads of tongue tingling heat. HG wanted some fish dishes but his companions are not big fish fans. Heat didn’t overwhelm the authentic .savory flavors. The only dish on the extensive menu that garnered four peppercorns was Wild Pepper Fried Frog. HG will pass on that one. HG is adventurous but not brave enough to try these delicacies: Sauteed Bullfrog with Chili Sauce; Marinated Pig Feet Shanghai Style; Spicy Pig Intestine in Casserole. HG could not figure out two dishes: Chong Qing Stew The Cock; Mixed Meat Chaff with Chong Qing Style Spicy Dried Chili. Hot stuff. Both rate three peppercorns.

HG/BSK love Providence and Rhode Island. A major reason,of course, is that it’s the home of Gifted Daughter Lesley R. and her multi talented, beautiful family. Providence is rich in history, art (home of famed Rhode Island School of Design); 18th Century architecture (Benefit Street) and higher education (Brown University). Son-in-law Massimo is a distinguished Professor at the University and Brilliant Granddaughter Arianna graduated a few days ago. HG/BSK visited the Brown campus today with Granddaughter Sofia. All were moved by a powerful sculpture of chains and words that acknowledges — in a forthright and honest manner — the University’s founding was financially aided by more than a century of profitable participation in the slave trade. HG/BSK were on campus to view an exhibit at the Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology curated by by Arianna. Brilliant exhibit. The subject was beer and its importance (religious, cultural and culinary) in a variety of cultures ranging from the Andes to Africa. There was eloquent prose by Arianna plus striking displays of brewing and drinking artifacts. (Hey. If there are some museum administrators among HG’s followers, HG counsels the hiring of Arianna immediately. The young woman is destined to have an outstanding curatorial career). Leaving culture and family love behind, HG must mention that HG’s affection for Providence and its environs is based on food lust. Lesley R. is an outstanding cook and Profesore Massimo is a knowing selector of cheese, bread, wine and other good things. Yes, home eating is a pleasure and dining out is rewarding. HG has written about oyster feasts at Hemenway’s; grilled pizza, clams and sausage plus other wonders at Al Forno.. And there are clam shacks, Peruvian, Portuguese, Korean and Italian restaurants. All serving abundant, savory and affordable food. Today, HG/BSK, Arianna and Sofia lunched at Haruki East, a very good Japanese restaurant near Brown. Great lunch specials of Maki rolls (spicy tuna, tempura shrimp, eel and avocado;yellowtail and scallions; crisp fried Gyoza; a green salad with Japanese dressing; lusty Miso soup; green tea. HG spotted a young man at the counter devouring a K Dinosaur Roll. This is a monster (Priced at $19.75, more than a foot long and combining a lengthy list of ingredients including salmon, tuna, eel, cream cheese, avocado, asparagus, etc. etc. This is an HG must try. For dinner, Avenue N American Kitchen in the Rumford neighborhood of East Providence. The restaurant is, to put it simply, wonderful. Inventive, perfectly prepared food from local sources. Handsome, nicely lit room (It replaced a group of artist studios). Deft service. Lively atmosphere with a buzzing bar scene. Modest prices. Small plates. Big plates. And, pizzas. Dinner for five (HG/BSK; Lesley, Massimo and Arianna R.) as a continuing celebration of Arianna’s graduation from Brown University. Shared three small plates (Quite generous in size): Fried oysters with horseradish and mustard sauce; Point Judith calamari with pickled peppers, citrus butter and spicy remoulade; Smothered Duck Purloo (lush sauce of okra, corn, preserved tomatoes, short grain rice, andouille butter). All were splendid. The lavish duck dish was a revelation. Shared big plates: Swordffish Schnitzel with turnips, burdock root, pickles, chile aioli; Braised Berkshire Pork Shoulder with gruyere polenta, chard and a rich brown sauce. Before the feast began, all got tastes of the Roasted Sweet Corn Soup ordered by Miss A. Drank two bottles of Oregon wine–a pinot grigio and a pinot noir. HG had his usual alcoholic cocktail (This time it was an icy vodka and grapefruit concoction) plus a glass of California cabernet to accompany chocolate mousse cake. (The sweet goody was to be shared but greedy HG ate most of it). Arianna R. is slim, sleek, soigné and shapely. But, the lady can sure pack away the groceries. Magic metabolism ??

The end of a 2,100 mile bout of virtuoso long distance driving by BSK. The magical woman is nervous if HG drives. Thus, HG (advised by Toby, The Wonder Dog) acted as navigator and music selector. On arrival at the Riverside, R.I., home of the Riva family, a warm welcome from Lesley (HG/BSK’s multi-talented daughter), Massimo (Handsome and brilliant Profesore/Uficiale son-in-law); Arianna and Sofia (Gifted and beautiful granddaughters). The excellent traveler, Toby, was glad to be out of the car and renewing a loving and lively friendship with Pip, the Rivas’ charming and brilliant lady dog. HG was famished so broke away from embraces and was off to Blount Clam Shack adjacent to the nearby Crescent Park Carousel. The “merry go round” is a beautifully restored antique. A bowl of New England Clam Chowder. The real deal. Lots of clams and lots of sea flavor. As usual, dinner at the Riva’s was an epic. It was served outdoors with wonderful views of the setting sun over the waters of Narraganset Bay. A pre-dinnder vodka for HG. Then, chilled Prosecco with cantaloupe and San Daniele ham. A huge bowl of linguine with clams (Rhody clams are the best). Spectacular bread from the Seven Stars Bakery soaked up the flavorful sauce of olive oil, tomatoes, garlic and clam juice. White wine flowed. Then, a switch to Dolcetto d’Alba with a cheese platter and salad. HG had more red wine with Belgian Almond Butter Cookies. HG had a finale of icy Limoncello. Sharing a bed with BSK and Toby (A quiet and serene bedmate), HG, surfeited with family love, wondrous food and ample alcohol, slept like a babe.

Yes, down home Jewish treats are available in the quintessentially midwestern city of Indianapolis. Shapiro’s Jewish Delicatessen and Bakery is a block long paradise of corned beef, rye bread, pastrami, tongue, chopped liver, Reuben sandwiches, knishes, bagels, lox, cream cheese, matzo balls,chicken noodle soup, ad infinitum. HG/BSK stopped at the 110 year old institution on the the third day of HG/BSK’s cross country motoring voyage. Shapiro’s is conveniently located off Highway I-70 (close to the Colts football stadium). Shapiro’s is huge with a big parking lot adjacent. The food is splendid. HG had a big platter of corned beef, tongue and pastrami. Rye bread. Mustard. Russian dressing. Sour pickles. Cole slaw. Potato salad. Plus Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray Tonic. What more could HG, a Bronx product, desire? The hungry chap was in heartburn heaven. BSK was more moderate. A Reuben sandwich, cole slaw, lemonade. Plus, a surprisingly good fresh fruit salad. There were enough left overs for HG/BSK to have a pleasant dinner in their La Quinta room in Columbus while watching Lebron and Stephon do battle.

HG/BSK are luxuriating in a La Quinta hotel on highway I-55 In Collinsville, IL, just a few miles east of St.Louis. Have completed half of the 2,100 mile trip to Providence. The road amenities in the United States continue to delight HG/BSK. La Quinta is the favorite road lodging. Big, clean rooms. Comfy beds. Flat screen TV. Hot shower with good water pressure and lots of fluffy towels. WiFi, of course. Ice maker just a few steps down the hall. Civilized living at a modest price (Free breakfast, too). This a far cry from the hotel accommodations in France and Italy. Tiny rooms. Big prices. Inferior plumbing. Plus, a free, ample supply of cockroaches. That’s why HG/BSK always rent apartments when abroad. Another great American road classic is Waffle House. Always a joy. Today, HG lunched on some savory high cal stuff: Two buttery, softly scrambled (as requested) eggs; greaseless and crisp hash browns topped with fried onions; bowl of grits; toast; jam, orange juice; a few cups of coffee. Weight watcher BSK had a salad topped with grilled chicken. BSK lauded the chicken as flavorful and juicy plus the salad was dressed with a pleasant vinaigrette. Drank unsweetened ice tea. (In mid-America and the South, ice tea is served unsweetened or sweetened. The sweetened is cloying.) Next La Quinta visit is tomorrow night in Columbus, Ohio. Midpoint between St.Louis and Columbus is Indianapolis, home of Shapiro’s Jewish Delicatessen. Looking forward to an old fashioned heartburn.

As Robert Burns put it: “The best laid plans of mice and men aft gang agley.” So, forget about HG’s last post about HG/BSK’s high cal road food trip. Different route and had to make some tweaks. Stopped at Tyler’s Barbecue on Fairmont Boulevard off Rt. I-40 In Amarillo, Texas. Ate real deal Texas barbecue brisket. (Jane and Michael Stern, The Road Food folk, and Texas Monthly love this little place). It’s neat, sweet and clean. Folks are super friendly,. And, the brisket. The best. Smoky and melt-in-the-mouth tender. HG/BSK relished their super generous brisket sandwiches (with plenty of those burnt ends that Calvin Trillin loves); a perfect, not too sweet cole slaw; smoky beans; pickles; jalapeños and flavorful sauces, both hot and sweet. Drank icy pink lemonade. Thought about our gifted pal, Stephanie Pierson, author of “The Brisket Book” (Buy it immediately and get busy brisketing). Stephanie and her delightful, witty partner, Eric Silver, just spent some days with us in New Mexico, As you can imagine, these were days of fun, frolic and feasting. The generous duo regaled HG/BSK with wonderful wines and The Dessert Queen, neighbor Karen K., brought sublime carrot cake and brownies (from Katherine Hepburn’s recipe) to the feasts. Since Stephanie is the acknowledged world authority on brisket, HG/BSK hopes Tyler’s brisket is in her future. For her to miss it would be like an authority on modern art ignoring Picasso.

HG/BSK and Toby, The Wonder Dog, will soon take off on a four day motor trip across mid-America. Santa Fe to Riverside,R.I.. Hopefully, HG/BSK will get there in time for a day of family festivities celebrating brilliant granddaughter Arianna Riva’s graduation from Brown University. Toby is anticipating a happy reunion with Pip, the Riva family’s super smart and charming dog. HG has spent some time researching the best places to eat that are close to the highways HG/BSK will travel. A good source for down home goodies is Michael and Jane Stern’s Roadfood Website. Their recommendations are not for the weight watcher or cardiologist. Big emphasis on lush burgers, mammoth breakfasts, barbecue and three-inch high pies. Oklahoma seems promising. There’s Sid’s Diner with their famous onion fried burgers and Coneys (That’s what hot dogs are called in the western provinces). The tube steaks indulge in overkill. The grilled Coneys are smothered in chile, fried onions and cheese. HG can hardly wait. Sid’s is near Oklahoma City. A bit further east in Tulsa, HG is looking forward to grilled flounder and hush puppies at White River Fish Market (BSK will join HG in devouring these treats). HG/BSK will go through Kansas City, Mo.. The duo will ignore Calvin Trillin’s barbecue mecca, Arthur Bryant’s, and concentrate on Stroud’s for America’s best pan-fried chicken. HG anticipates some conflict when HG/BSK approach Indianapolis HG has promised BSK there will be no long schlep from the highway or their motel lodgings in search for some obscure purveyor of local, esoteric delicacy. However, when HG/BSK approach the Indiana metropolis, HG will plead the case for a visit to Shapiro’s at its downtown location. Shapiro’s is a 110-year hold Jewish “kosher style” delicatessen. Pastrami, corned beef, real rye bread, matzo ball soup. You get the picture. Long regarded as one of the ten best Jewish delicatessens in the land. Certainly, it is the only Jewish delicatessen with biscuits and gravy on the menu. BSK’s birthday will be celebrated at one of the very good Pennsylvania Dutch restaurants in Allentown, Pa. Expect full reports from HG on HG/BSK’s All-American road fressing.

HG is not a burger fan. Finds all chain burgers vile (Mickey Dee serves the worst). Thinks those monstrous burgers that combine, avocado, cheese, bacon, short rib meat, ham, sausage etc, into overkill jawbreakers are impossible to eat and digest. Invitation to shirt stains and heartburn. However, during HG’s New York days, the greedy fellow always enjoyed the hamburgers at Joe Allen, the theater district restaurant on W.46th with a devoted show biz following. Allen’s hamburger is just the right size. Served properly pink. Nice garnishes. A thin roll that doesn’t overwhelm the meat. HG would have sides of French fries and Caesar salad. Preceded it with black bean soup. Drank Black and Tan: Half Guiness Stout and half IPA beer.Sometimes HG varied this routine with pan broiled calf’s liver. Allen’s was one of the very few New York eateries that had it on their menu. HG was reminded of all this by an interview with Joe Allen, the restaurant’s founder and owner (also founded and owns Orso, a good Italian restaurant next door). The interview was not really an interview. Most comments were from his wife and children. Allen is not forthcoming. He says about himself: “I bore myself. I can only imagine my effect on other people.” Anyway, reading about Joe Allen (the restaurant and the man), made HG hungry for a burger. New Mexico style. Thus, for dinner this night there were pan broiled burgers (grass fed local beef) smothered in 505 Green Chile Sauce (Available at Santa Fe Whole Foods). Corn niblets and okra enlivened with a bit of hot chile oil. Goya black beans topped with chopped sweet onions and sour cream. HG sipped (with restraint) tequila and beer chasers. Some slices of just ripe avocado. Hey, amigos, that’s the way we make burgers in New Mexico. Adios. And, stay hungry.

HG is referring to the interior of animals (aka offal). Brains, kidneys, livers, sweetbreads, tongue, hearts, intestines, tripe (stomach lining). These wonderful tastes seem to have disappeared from mainstream restaurant menus (as a corollary the interest in “head-to-tail” eating has been growing within the ranks of sophisticated and adventurous eaters). Is it the work of the health police on the alert for elevated cholesterol levels? Or have Americans become so spoiled that offal is seen as a remnant of poverty cuisine? The Europeans (especially the French) continue to devour these good things. When in Paris, HG eats lots of rognons (kidneys) in mustard sauce or grilled until the interiors are pink. A very good Left Bank bistro, La Ribouldinge, makes a specialty of offal. Pharamond serves classic tripes a la mode de Caen (Very good. However, HG prefers the Mexican tripe stew known as Menudo. As noted in many posts, HG is a fan of two versions of Menudo served at restaurants in HG’s New Mexican neighborhood: Green Chile Menudo at El Parasol and Red Chile Menudo at Sopaipilla Factory). HG’s daughter Victoria and husband chef Marc Meyer tried to introduce Menudo to New York diners at their sparkling Mexican restaurant, Rosie’s, in the East Village. Few takers, Removed from menu, alas. Sweetbreads (thymus glands) are on menus everywhere and are one of HG’s favorite treats. Best version ever was at the Oak Room of New York’s venerable Algonquin Hotel. Sauteed sweet breads with a slice of Virginian ham and an exuberant amount of Sauce Bearnaise. Pan broiled medium rare calf’s liver (enlivened with a dash of sherry vinegar) is served in scores of Paris bistros. Delicious. When HG lived in Colorado (first on a mountain horse ranch and then in Denver), HG often had splendid liver with onions and bacon at 240 Union Restaurant in nearby Lakewood. Very Parisian. 240 Union is a great, creative restaurant (A must if you ever travel to Denver or on your way to ski country). HG checked 240’s current menu. No liver. Must have met the same fate as Rosie’s Menudo. In bygone days, liver was a staple item on New York menus. Well done liver, onions and bacon (liver too well done for HG’s taste) on diner menus. Thick slabs of calf’s liver at steak houses. Chopped liver, of course, at Jewish eateries. Broiled chicken livers over saffron rice at Greek restaurants. The Schrafft’s chain, a bastion of WASP cookery, served an appetizing dish of gently sautéed chicken livers over softly scrambled eggs. Sammy’s Romanian, the flourishing homage to garlic and chicken fat Jewish cuisine, once served broiled chicken livers with unborn eggs. The livers are still on the menu but the eggs have disappeared. Only time HG ever had gizzards in New York was when SJ took HG to a little Japanese place on the West Side. Good, But, not as good as the duck gizzards in Paris. Rarely see brains in black butter in New York. Loved it at Le Veau D’or in New York (no longer on the menu but you can get a good version at Chez Napoleon in the theater district). HG ordered the dish at a nice restaurant in Paris 16e. Thoughtful owner was surprised an American ordered brains. Wanted to make sure HG knew what to expect. HG tapped HG’s skull. Owner laughed. Big, savory platter arrived. Tongue is still available at the less than a dozen (used to be a hundred) Jewish delicatessens in New York. Best tongue dish ever was served at long closed Al Cooper’s near New York’s garment center. Thick poached slice with creamed spinach and hot mustard. Sublime. Hearts have disappeared everywhere. Not for the delicate eater. In HG’s impecunious youth, HG ate big bowls of calf hearts stewed with onions, garlic and red wine. Hearty dish (to say the least). A staple at the funky far West Side French bistros that catered to the French seamen off the Ile de France and other liners. A.J. Liebling recounted in his book “Between Meals” that he would eat this dish when he was young and cash poor in Paris. Tete de Veau (calf’s head) is a feature of many French eateries.The dish is shunned by Americans. HG loves it. It consists of poached brains, tongue, mouth lining, etc.and other delectables from the calf’s head. Served with a Sauce Gribiche enlivened with chopped cornichons and capers. (Sauce Gribiche is a version of mayonnaise where mustard, cooked egg yolks and vinegar are emulsified until creamy). HG draws the line when it comes to intestines. Tried chitterlings in Harlem. Vile. The fecal stench of French Andouillette is off putting. (SJ once made the error of ordering them at Le Stella, a favorite Paris brasserie. Was unpleasantly shocked The funny food blogger Grubworm,calls the sausage:’the dish of death”). Innards do not appear on HG/BSK’s dinner table. Though a very adventurous cook and eater, BSK does not like innards. You can take the girl out of the midwest, but you can’t., etc. etc.

One of the many delights of dining in Paris is the low murmur of civilized voices. Parisians keep their conversation to a soft murmur when dining. Very unlike Americans. HG’s compatriots (not all, but very many) are loud in restaurants. Uncivilized. Insensitive to the sensibilities of other diners. Women offend as much as men (SJ has pointed out that in New York City there seems to be a trend of young women simply screaming whenever they see a friend and that screeching carries over to the dinner conversation). Here’s a snarky New Mexico/Colorado comment: Texas women are the loudest (they are also the blondest). HG used to look down on Mother’s Day as a commercialized travesty, not an homage to the glory of motherhood. However, HG has mellowed with the years and now makes sure that the world’s best Mom (and wife) is duly honored on this day with a card, gift and festive dining. BSK deserves it (and more). So, this Mom Day HG took BSK for brunch at the pleasant Restaurant Martin in Santa Fe. Lovely, simple room and deft service. HG/BSK had spicy Virgin Marys. Followed this with a spectacular duck confit hash topped with a perfect fried egg and a creative green salad. Finished with shared house made fig, peach and blueberry sorbet. This perfect brunch was marred by the woman (not a Texan) seated at a nearby table. A loud and grating voice. And, she wouldn’t stop talking and repeating the phrase “playing in the sandbox.” HG didn’t want to make a scene (uncharacteristic for HG) so HG didn’t ask Madame Loudmouth to lower her voice. Restaurants have signs forbidding cell phones (and some forbid perfume). How about:: “In consideration of others, keep your voices down” ?