HUNGRY GERALD

Are you (like HG/BSK) a passionate oyster lover? Then read on and turn bright green with envy. Prince Edward Island has long been famous for its Malpeque oysters and these are the oysters which are exported all around the world. They are splendid bivalves, indeed, but the true king of oysters is PEI’s South Lake oyster. This oyster is big, lush, briny. Incomparable. HG drops by the local fish store (By the Bay Fish Mart) and picks up a half dozen for the evening appetizer. The obliging fish lady picks out the biggest and best for HG, her steadiest customer. The price is $1.10 each. HG gets a modest discount when HG buys in quantity for a family feast. Don’t look for South Lake oysters at your fish monger. They never leave the Island. Too bad, oyster fanatics.

The government liquor store in nearby Morell, Prince Edward Island, has moved (there are some private wine merchants in Canada, but most spirits-wine-beer stores are government operations). Sign is still up but the store is vacant. HG/BSK made inquiries from some locals. Informed that the liquor store had moved to the gredge. HG/BSK were puzzled. What is a gredge? Turns out a “gredge” is a gas station or garage. The liquor store now occupies a corner of a Needs (a local convenience store chain) which is attached to a gas station (aka “gredge.”) Mystery solved. Other PEI mysteries abound: Anchovies are near impossible to locate in PEI groceries. After a many fruitless inquiries, HG finally located some dusty tins of anchovies, on ice, in the fresh fish department. Clam broth (or clam juice) cannot be found anywhere. Seems strange on an island famed for its bivalves. And okra, a fairly regular vegetable in US markets, occupies a place of complete ignorance in PEI. No one know what it is or where to get it and when SJ has trolled the markets looking for it (to make his famed gumbo), he has met a rather threatened silence, as if “okra” was a code word for illicit drugs. Fortunately, the main PEI mystery — which HG is happy if it remains unsolved– is how this wonderful, peaceful, eminently liveable island province has remained under-the-radar for so long.

Little chance for sunburn on Prince Edward Island. Grey skies. North wind. Rain in the future. Friends Peter H. (the distinguished author/journalist/wine authority) and his equally distinguished economist wife, SCH, have arrived . Seem undismayed by the weather as they have left a very steamy New York behind. The generous couple came heavily laden with culinary treats. To wit: Croissants (better than Paris). Bagels. Bialys. Authentic Jewish rye bread. Bonito flakes. Coffee. Nuts. Halvah. Great wine. And, more, much more. Such thoughtfulness should be rewarded so HG/BSK greeted the duo with freshly shucked South Lake oysters (better than Malpeques) and dry smoked salmon. Dinner was BSK’s version of Mapu Tofu with a sauce of ground pork, onions, garlic, mushrooms, etc. Plus some room temperature capellini with a dash of sesame oil and sriracha. Peter/SCH were introduced to Canadian butter tarts as dessert. They approved.

During HG/BSK’s long residence in Vancouver, British Columbia, much fresh salmon was consumed. Salmon from B.C.’s Fraser River, Washington’s Columbia River and the icy waters off Alaska were featured in Vancouver’s fish markets. Friends often brought HG/BSK slabs of great salmon they had caught in exclusive fishing lodges in northern B.C. All great, tasty stuff. HG/BSK were spoiled. The flavors and textures of the good stuff nullified the thought of ever buying insipid farm raised salmon again; however, events of last night may have created a mind change. HG peered at the great salmon filets at By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peter’s Bay, Prince Edward Island. “Is it good?,” inquired HG of the plain spoken woman behind the counter. “It’s from across the water in Nova Scotia and everyone likes it.” No mention of farm raising. But, it had to be. Nevertheless, HG bought a big piece. HG likes to cook salmon the French bistro way — pan frying over high heat, skin side down, no turning. However, this chunk of salmon was just too thick. Had to be turned. Was fabulous. Crispy skin. Lightly browned top. Full of juice and flavor. Cooked medium rare. Cold left overs for lunch (with mustard mayonnaise) were equally good. This doesn’t mean HG is going to buy American farm raised salmon. But, By the Bay Fish Mart had made HG a convert to their product.

Lovely hour-and-a-half hike along the the sea shore. Did some wading and found the water surprisingly warm. Usually, Prince Edward Island’s ocean waters begin to warm in mid-July — it seems there is a very minor upside to climate change. The sea air and salt breezes sharpened appetites so HG/BSK settled down to some sumptuous dining. As a starter, BSK sauteed a half pound of fresh sea scallops (from the Nova Scotia shore) and served them over some lightly dressed butter lettuce. Then, clams posillipo, the classic Italian dish of cherrystone clams (BSK used a generous two dozen) steamed in a sofrito of tomatoes, chopped onion, garlic and parsley. BSK did a creative variation and showered the sofrito with lots of hot, smoked Spanish paprika. Great idea. This converted the dish into a super spicy dish with Spanish overtones. HG/BSK broke lots of toasted ciabatta in the mix. Hearty eating. Saved some sofrito and put in the freezer. Will thaw it in the future and poach some cod in the sauce. Should taste like Barcelona. HG will make a rough and ready rouille — mayonnaise and sriracha — and smear it on some toasted baguette. This will introduce a note of Marseilles. International fish fressing in the great, Canadian Maritimes.

The skies are blue. The breezes are soft and salty. The sea stretches into infinity before HG’s eyes. Red earth and brilliant green fields. A driveway lined with beautiful pink, lavender and purple lupens (BSK’s assiduous seeding has paid off). Yes, HG/BSK are on lyrical Prince Edward Island, The Gentle Island. Time to eat lots of sea food. Local fish merchant is selling oysters ($1.10 each), Atlantic cod ($6.75 a lb.), Nova Scotia scallops ($13.00 a lb.) and many other nicely priced sea creatures. First Island dinner was pan fried sole ($6.00 a pound). Thick, firm filets. HG dunked them in beaten egg, rolled them in seasoned Canadian fish fry mixture and sizzled them in canola oil. BSK prepared a bowl of orzo with onions, mushrooms and garlic. Salad of butter lettuce. Meal ended with local goat cheese and local blueberry honey. A stew of cod and mussels is in the offing. Next week, allergic-to-crustaceans BSK, will watch with jealous eyes as HG polishes off $6.00 a pound lobster caught in front of the HG/BSK home

The Hooters restaurant chain (locations throughout the world) provokes HG anger. Like a lecherous uncle, there is something downright perverse about the chain’s deliberate exploitation and objectification of the bodies of young women. (HG has never been in a “Hooters” but has watched the chain’s repulsive, leering videos). One of HG’s favorite food bloggers is David Lebovitz (“Living the Sweet Life in Paris.”) He is a graceful writer and an accomplished cook. Recently, Lebovitz attended a holiday party and through a silly gift exchange, he wound up with The Hooters Cookbook. Bemused (and amused), Lebovitz decided to test a recipe: Deep Fried Onion Rings. And, annoyingly, the onion rings turned out to be splendid. As a matter of moral principle (even though HG loves onion rings–even more than he loves French fries) HG will not try the recipe. Since HG will be summering with BSK and family on Prince Edward Island, HG will enjoy the world’s best deep fried onion rings at Rick’s Fish and Chips, the delightful restaurant near the edge of St.Peter’s Bay. Six oysters on the half shell, fresh fried haddock, onion rings, cole slaw and a cold bottle of locally brewed artisan ale—that’s what HG will be eating at Rick’s following a day of swimming, sunning and kayaking. Envious?

Last day in PEI before setting out on the long and tedious air journey to New Mexico. Lots of last minute chores to insure our home on the sea sails through the winters without mishap. So, no cooking. Instead, dining at two Prince Edward island standbys, both overlooking scenic St. Peter’s Bay — the breeding ground of the very best mussels. We had planned to visit Lin’s Takeout for a luncheon scallop sandwich. Unfortunately, Lin was out of scallops so she suggested a halibut sandwich. Glad she did. The sandwich consisted of a half-pound slab of fresh, juicy just grilled halibut on a big bun. Slices of sweet onion, ripe tomato and plenty of mayonnaise. One of the great 9 buck sandwiches. Dinner was at Rick’s Fish & Chips. Started with shucked, briny Malpeque oysters and went on to perfectly crisp, falvorfully battered and fried haddock withe plentiful hand cut French fried potatoes and onion rings. The surprise was our beverages–a big, cold bottle of Gahan House Brewery Brown Ale and its companion, a bottle of the brewery’s 1172 India Pale Ale. Splendid drinking. The Brown Ale had lots of roasted malt exuberance and the India Pale had lots of alcohol and a refreshingly bitter finish. Both ales are brewed at the Gahan House Brewery in Charlottetown, PEI’s major city. Nice way to say au revoir to the gentle green island.

That’s what Willy Loman’s widow said in the climactic scene of Arther Miller’s “Death of a Salesman.” And, to leave the artistic heights for the mundane, this applies to the construction of a proper lobster roll. The big problem with lobster rolls is the cost/pleasure ratio. Lobster rolls are expensive. Unfortunately, most contain little lobster and much mayonnaise. When there is enough lobster the price makes a dent in the appetite. Before they left Prince Edward Island, SJ and Exquisite Maiko joined HG for a lobster roll lunch day (BSK had to be left out of the feast because of crustacean allergy). Attention was paid to all of the details and the result was six lush, lobster abundant lobster rolls. First, celery and onion were chopped. No cucumber. HG finds it incompatible with this treat. One pound of very good lobster meat was sliced into manageable pieces. All went into a bowl with Hellman’s Real Mayonnaise. How much mayo? Just enough. Plus a dab of Dijon mustard and a squeeze of lemon juice. Hot dog buns were toasted (exterior and interior). The interior got a generous helping of softened sweet butter. Attention was paid. Perfection was achieved.

Yes, SJ, Exquisite Maiko, Haru and Teru are off to Brooklyn, leaving behind Prince Edward Island for the harsher realities of school and careers. For HG and BSK this will mean Prince Edward Island quiet and serenity, no sounds but the wind and the sea. Of course, this will mean no extraordinary cuisine from EM. No funny insights, swim companionship, beach walks, book reading and much more from Haru. No delicious cuddles and silly noise making with the enchanting six month old Teru. Tonight, SJ took over the preparation of a farewell dinner. SJ marinated some organic, free range farmers market chicken in a mixture of oil, garlic, adobo, lemon juice, salt and pepper. The chicken went on a charcoal grill and the result was crusty, spicy, juicy hunks of bird. SJ also did the best, simplest summer pasta: A host of chopped herbs from the garden — marjoram. chives, mint, parsley, thyme, rosemary,Thai basil — were mixed with ripe local tomatoes and thin slivers of garlic. These were placed on top a big bowl of artisan pasta from a local market. SJ then heated up hot olive oil (just before the burning point) and poured it (with the appropriate sizzling sounds) over the herbs, tomato and garlic mixture. The heady herbaceous aromas filled the room. Post feast, Haru manged an ice cream bar but the rest of the dinner party could only sip wine and murmur the bittersweet sighs of farewell.