HUNGRY GERALD

Although HG is a born and bred urbanite, oblivious to much of the beauty of nature and its infinite variety, HG has oddly found that observing seabirds is a source of unending pleasure. HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home, perched directly above the sea, is the ideal theater for enjoying seabirds. The Heron, of course, is the most graceful bird. Statuesque in repose. Poetic in flight, a streamlined Art Deco vision. Cormorants provide comic relief. The least graceful of fliers, flap-flap-flap go their wings in a manic pattern as they progress across the sky. Crows are graceful but unpleasantly noisy and untidy in their excretory habits (they target HG/BSK’s decks). Gulls of all kind soar through the air with the greatest of ease, seemingly mocking the clumsy Cormorants. Harrier Hawks do, in the words of the song, “make lazy circles in the sky.” Every now and then a mighty eagle soars into view and all of the birds scatter. Among the smaller shore birds, HG derives particular pleasure from colorful Meadow Larks and quick-stepping Sandpipers and Piping Plovers (the latter, alas, is an endangered species that PEI naturalists are making an effort to preserve). But, HG’s favorite sea bird is that mighty fisher, the Osprey. They are feathered dive-bombers. Ospreys fly a few yards above the sea, ever alert to the possibility of a meal. Then they spot a fish. The Osprey comes to an abrupt halt and does a swift, vertical dive. There’s a big splash when the bird hits the water. It is one of nature’s most diverting spectacles.

Yesterday, HG picked up a big box of first-of-season strawberries at a roadside stand on Prince Edward Island. Took a big breath and inhaled sheer magical goodness. Out of season strawberries (imports from Mexico, Chile, etc.) are tasteless with a cottony texture. These local strawberries, grown in the good red earth of PEI, are a world apart, full of juice, flavor and fragrance. A favorite dessert is a bowl of these berries sprinkled with a bit of sugar and covered with sweet cream. Very nice macerated with a bit of kirschwasser. BSK is planning a compote of rhubarb and strawberries. When HG was a little fellow enjoying summers is Rockaway, Italian truck farmers would arrive and shout: “Stromberry!!” That shout announced that strawberry season had arrived and for days and nights HG would enjoy big bowls topped with sour cream. In the kitchen of HG’s Mom, almost everything edible received the inevitable (and delicious) dollop of sour cream. In the here and now, HG/BSK are breakfasting on the berries with Greek yogurt, walnuts and honey. In a few weeks, heaven will get a new dimension. That’s when the local raspberries and blueberries appear. HG/BSK and famille pick them every day from the bushes surrounding the HG/BSK home. Salt spray from the sea seems to give them another delightful dimension.

Fifty years ago, ratatouille was a fashionable dish. It was a mark of culinary sophistication to pronounce the word properly: Rat-a-too-ee. Then it disappeared from the dinner tables of the fashionable and the menus of chic restaurants. HG is pleased that BSK, a culinary classicist, keeps it alive. One of HG’s favorite luncheon dishes is a bowl of room temperature ratatouille topped with three or four anchovy fillets and a few black kalamata olives. Somehow it evokes summer. It should. Its origin is Provence, southern France. Its birthplace is Nice. In fact, the full name of the dish is “ratatouille nicoise.” BSK’s version of the dish is delicious. Each ingredient (olive oil, garlic, onion, eggplant, zucchini, red bell pepper, tomato, parsley, basil, thyme) is top quality ans treated as such. BSK cooks the vegetables in a sequence BSK has devised (tomatoes go in last). This means all the flavors merge but each retains an individual vibrancy. Keeps well in the refrigerator. Gets better with time. HG has never fancied ratatouille as a side dish with fish or meat. It’s a stand alone treat.

Lots of weather excitement yesterday as Hurricane Arthur roared across the Canadian Maritimes. Nova Scotia bore the brunt with power lost for many homes. Here, on Prince Edward Island, HG/BSK listened to loud winds and watched the sea produce whitecaps and spray. Beautiful. Turned into rain as the day progressed. Electricity went on and off. Fully restored by early afternoon. All was snug as HG read back issues of GRANTA, the wonderful British literary quarterly. BSK constructed a nice foul weather dinner: An Asiatic influenced beef short ribs soup /stew served with Japanese udon noodles and topped with a poached egg. This was followed by a salad and cumin gouda cheese from PEI’s inimitable “Gouda Lady.” HG/BSK let the winds howl as much red wine was poured. Bright sun and moderate winds this morning as Arthur disappeared. Long, invigorating beach walk. Shore was strewn with bits of jellyfish chopped up by the storm. A first: HG found a nice piece of green beach glass. BSK, the champion glass gleaner, found none.

HG/BSK (and family) have been collecting beach glass for more than a half century. They have walked the shores of Fire Island, Nantucket, Cape Cod, West Hampton, East Hampton, Montauk, and, of course, Prince Edward Island. Always on the alert for bits of glass that have been burnished by the sea. It is a gentle and harmless pastime made delightful by sea breezes, salt air and the sounds of the surf. On the antique Chinese sideboard in the entry to HG/BSK’s PEI home are glass containers filled with more than a thousand bits of beach glass. Some months ago there was a charming New Yorker cartoon depicting a couple at the sea shore. Says the man to his lady friend: “You are a piece of blue beach glass.” When HG saw this, HG remarked to BSK: “You are a piece of red beach glass.” Yes, blue beach glass is rare but red beach glass is the ultimate rarity. In years of beach walking, HG has never discovered one. So, you can imagine HG’s excitement today when BSK shouted: “Come quickly. I found it.” Yes, there in BSK hand was the perfect piece of red beach glass. Like the lady, rare and beautiful.

So, how did you spend this summer Sunday? This is what HG did. On Prince Edward Island the sun was out full blast. Cloudless sky. Sea was lake-like calm. Perfect kayak weather. HG and BSK paddled happily. The water was very clear and HG saw many lobster and fish plus a giant jellyfish with tendrils three feet long. Surprised some herons sitting on a rocky point. Whoosh!! Up in the air they went and there is nothing more beautiful and streamlined than these long necked birds in flight. Paused for lunch. Spicy Korean instant ramen enriched with some slices of cheddar (a staple dish offered youngsters by Korean moms in Los Angeles). Back to the beach for some reading, strolling, beach glass hunting. Into the sea for a “refreshing” plunge. The sea won’t warm up until later in July. After an outdoor shower, HG shucked a dozen cold South Lake oysters. Chilled vodka aperitif for HG and white wine for BSK. Then a dinner of steamed asparagus with a butter/lemon sauce followed by a salad of sautéed sea scallops and lovely farmers market greens. A perfect Canadian pecan studded butter tart for dessert. HG/BSK have a library of almost 100 classic VCR films. HG has been indulging nostalgia for HG’s New York/Broadway press agent days. Watched Woody Allen’s “Broadway Danny Rose” a few nights ago and on Sunday delighted in “Sweet Smell of Success.” James Wong Howe black and white photography. Bravura performances by Tony Curtis and Burt Lancaster. Climaxed a perfect day.

During the economic depression of the 1930’s, HG’s family spent the summers in a Rockaway boarding house. (HG gathers Hurricane Sandy-bruised Rockaway has become a destination for Brooklyn hipsters and surfboarders with some nice restaurants springing up near the reconstructed boardwalk). When HG was a little fellow, Rockaway was cheap and decidedly proletarian. HG’s parents rented two rooms in the boarding house for $25 (July 1 through Labor Day). Not luxurious. Communal bathroom (commode and sink) serving four families. Communal showers in basement (one for women and one for men). No hot water. Soapy five year old HG frolicked under icy water with naked bosomy ladies. (Remembered with much fondness). Here on Prince Edward Island, HG comes off the beach sandy, sun baked and salty. With much foresight, BSK carefully planned a spacious outdoor shower. Not just a place to rinse sandy feet, the BSK shower has doors for privacy, wooden pegs for towels and bathrobes, shelves for soaps and shampoos. Best of all: Plentiful hot water. Yes, the HG/BSK home has luxurious indoor showers and a jetted bathtub. But, HG prefers the outdoor shower as being somehow reminiscent of earlier days by the sea.

Okay, food loving pals, turn green with envy. It’s lobster season here on Prince Edward Island and fresh caught lobster sells for $5 to $7 a pound — it seems that slightly warming waters has expanded the lobster population. The ocean directly in front of the HG/BSK home is teeming with the crustaceans and HG/BSK awaken each morning to the sight of a dozen lobster boats chugging about in front of their windows. Seems to be an early morning activity because by 11 AM they’re all gone. HG is taking advantage of this surplus and devouring many delicious lobsters in a variety of styles: Steamed and dipped in melted butter (garnished with lemon juice and Frank’s Hot Sauce). Mixed with chopped celery and mayonnaise and stuffed into lightly toasted frankfurter rolls. Scooped into Belgian endive leaves. None of this brings joy to BSK. The love of HG’s life is allergic to lobsters and all other crustaceans (shrimp, crab, langoustines). BSK is not allergic to bivalves (oysters, clams, scallops). So, there’s a lot of good sea stuff for BSK to relish. But, BSK still looks at HG with wistful envy as the greedy old guy knocks off some juicy lobster.

Hake is a member of the cod family, HG believes, and this firm fleshed fish is an HG favorite. They catch lots of hake in the waters off Prince Edward Island which means it’s cheap (6 bucks a pound) and always available at the local seafood shop in the town of St. Peters (a quick drive from the HG/BSK home). Hake can be baked, fried or steamed. HG likes to steam hake and HG does it the Chinese way. HG places hake filets on a mix of fresh grated ginger, rice vinegar, soy sauce and white wine. Brings it to a quick boil. Covers the pan. Lowers the heat and simmers for 8 minutes, Tops the dish with slivers of scallion (or fried garlic chips). A dash of Sriracha. Serves it with soba (moistened with sesame oil) plus stir fried baby bok choy. You can do this dish with cod, snapper, filets of sole (cut the steaming time way back if you’re using sole).

The HG/BSK Prince Edward Island home, perched on a bluff overlooking the endless Gulf of St. Lawrence, is oceanic heaven. More than 50 feet of windows and glass doors provide an ever-changing panorama of whitecaps and clouds tossed about by salty breezes. Sunsets are spectacular and, here in the north, they are long lasting (doesn’t get truly dark until about 10:30). Now in residence for the summer, HG/BSK are enjoying the sea level serenity (a change from the high altitude serenity HG/BSK experience in New Mexico). The local sea food store (By the Bay in the town of St. Peters) and BSK’s herb garden are providing taste treats. BSK’s crop of sorrel is abundant. That means sorrel soup plus grilled salmon nestled in sorrel sauce (BSK’s version of the soup and sauce is better than the over creamy stuff you get in Paris). HG/BSK have been steaming freshly caught cod and hake in Chinese sauces. Dinners have begun with a half dozen incomparable PEI oysters. Heaven, indeed.