HUNGRY GERALD

Perfect sunny day on Prince Edward Island. HG was perched on the beach in front of HG/BSK’s home. BSK, GGS, SJ, EM, Haru and Teru drove to the broad sands off Maclaren Road. Everyone was in and out of the calm warm sea throughout the day. HG was engrossed in Granta, the British quarterly of adventurous writing. Fiction, reportage, poetry, etc. HG finds Granta an excellent beach companion. Thirty minutes (sometimes 40) of challenging reading. Then a refreshing swim. Repeat until shower and cocktails. Two dozen Colville Bay oysters were shucked and devoured. Then, a respite from seafood. BSK pan broiled hamburgers, topping them with cheddar cheese and an improvised, but tasty green chile sauce. SJ marinated chicken thighs in fresh herbs, garlic, olive oil, lemon and various spices and grilled them into crusty, brown and juicy nuggets. A big batch of fresh vegetables—zucchini, onions, peppers, etc. were served up as well. Plentiful Chilean Tempranillo. Another festive family feast.

The late George Burns on the subject of age: “They say the legs are the first thing to go.” Burns, who had impeccable comic timing, would pause for a second or two, and say: “The second.” Yes, age has a destructive impact on the male anatomy. HG will be 86 this November. HG has switched from saying “I’m getting old” to “I’ve arrived. I’m old.” Old age arrives with a tidy group of ailments. Unexpected arthritis pains. Faulty hearing. Rickety legs (HG walks with a cane). Lessening of upper body strength. Enlarged prostate necessitating frequent nocturnal trips to the bathroom. And, in HG’s case, an impaired respiratory system (the result of 50 years of incessant cigarette and cigar smoking). Okay. Those are some of the bad things about getting old. How about the good things? Here, HG cannot generalize but only report personal history. Pre-dinner drinks, wine with dinner, brandy post dinner. Age hasn’t diminished the pleasure of these daily rituals. (Novelist James Gould Cozzens described whiskey as “The old man’s friend.” In HG’s case it’s vodka). HG remains obsessively joyous about dining pleasures, at home or in restaurants. The pleasures of family and friends remain constant (as well as the ever growing love for wife BSK). HG’s family reports that HG remains politically incorrect and tasteless with an emphasis upon off color humor (not that they don’t still love the old fart). HG still enjoys writing (something HG has done professionally for decade upon decade). Quiet pleasures have gained intensity: Walking by the sea and swimming on Prince Edward Island. Gazing at cliffs and mesas in New Mexico while breathing tangy high desert air. Sitting by the fireplace on winter nights. Reading. Listening to music (Bill Evans, Django, Miles, Fats Waller, Mozart, Bach, Yo Yo Ma, Blossom Dearie remain favorites). Toby, The Wonder Dog, is a perpetually charming and amusing companion. These days HG is bemused, rather than made furious, by the state of the nation. Unabated racism (especially directed toward President Obama). Perpetual gun slaughter with attempts to lessen it blocked by the NRA. The useless, idiotic “War on drugs” which imprisons thousands of young African-American men while never acknowledging that addiction is a medical, not a criminal, problem. Despite progress, the ongoing denial of female equality and the continual media projection of women as a catalog of inflated pieces of fantasy anatomy. The dreary clownishness of Donald Trump and the descent of the Republican Party to know nothing stupidity rather than intelligent conservatism. Frightening income disparity, the rise of the oligarchs and the money corruption of the election process. On the world front there’s the futile response to global warming and environmental destruction. Islam, responsible for some of our greatest civilizations and most significant intellectual achievements, spawning splinter terror movements. Israel, once such a beacon of hope, now held captive by right wing politics. Russia reverting back to traditional autocracy. And, yes, there’s plenty of other dire news. HG can only conclude that the United States is still a work in progress (much work still to do). The world? It is inhabited by a very flawed species known as the human race, a species like few others, that seems to delight in the slaughter of its own kind. At this stage of life, HG tries to live in the present, enjoying the delights offered by each individual day. The French philosopher said: “When we think of the past, we regret. When we think of the future, we fear.” Wise words. As to the present, the sun is shining on Prince Edward Island. There’s a nice breeze. HG and Toby are off for some outdoor fun.

When you are on Prince Edward Island you are rarely far from excellent fried fish, French fried potatoes or crisp, deep fried onion rings. Rick’s Fish & Chips in St, Peters is (HG kids) the three star Michelin choice for these goodies. But, fear not, one can find worthy competitors all over the Island. There’s Wicked Fries, a food truck that appeared this year in Morrell, which has “awesome” fries (according to grandson Handsome Haru) and a fairly remarkable burger sourced from local PEI beef (according to SJ). There’s another truck in Montague Harbor where HG/BSK have had exemplary fried fish sandwiches with French fries and house made tartar sauce. There’s another French fry food truck in Charlottetown that lurks near a complex of big box retailers. Always busy so they must be doing something right. HG/BSK live nine months of the year in New Mexico where tacos and burritos are rarely out of reach. You can grab them from food trucks, garner them from drive ins or eat them in restaurants. They are good, better or sublime. If they are inferior the purveyor is rapidly out of business. In Paris, there seems to be a crepe stand outside of every Metro station. These are not favored by HG who prefers the superb galettes or crepes at creperies like Breizh Cafe in the Marais neighborhood. In Vancouver, B.C., where HG/BSK lived (part time) for ten years, there were score of sushi joints. Every bench in the numerous parks or on busy avenues seemed to be occupied by beautiful young women eating sushi and chatting gaily with their friends. Philadelphia, which has always seemed to HG to be a highly eccentric city, is dominated by the soft pretzel. This doughy, heavily salted baked good (or bad) is heavily dosed in mustard and enjoyed by the multitudes. Go figure.

A few nights back, before Lesley R. and family headed back to Rhode Island, HG/BSK felt that after days of seafood it was time to pay attention to that excellent bird: The chicken. But, first there was homage to the sun. Much play on the beach in front of the HG/BSK home. BSK, Massimo and Lesley R., SJ and Handsome Haru were off in kayaks, exploring the calm sea waters. HG was content to stroll and wade in the gradually warming surf. Exquisite Maiko prepared lunch: Japanese curry, an EM special using a Japanese roux package as a base and adding her own spicing plus onions, potatoes, carrots, bonito broth, breakfast sausage and a bit of water. Totally unlike Indian curry. Thick. Unctous. Delicious. Served in small portions (after all, it was lunch). Then on to the wide beach off Maclaren Road for beach glass collecting and shore hiking. Lesley R. preceded dinner with her tarragon-laced Newfoundland cold water shrimp salad. This was followed by a blast from HG/BSK’s New Jersey past: Stretch’s Chicken Savoy. The dish could only be found at the eccentric Belmont Tavern in Belleville, N.J. Composed of chicken, red wine vinegar, white wine, garlic (much), rosemary, anchovies (abundant). Major league flavors. Lesley R. recreated the lush dish in bravura style. It was accompanied by BSK’s signature smashed potatoes (chicken broth and scallions) plus a seasonal PEI treat: Yellow beans. Green salad. Local cheeses (plus some from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick) accompanied by a very special treat: Armenian candied pumpkin (introduced to Massimo and Lesley R. by Lesley’s lovely friend, Dr. Diane, a lady of Armenian heritage.) Great day, Great fun. Great food.

Lesley and Massimo R., Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia (plus their endearing dog Pip) leave Prince Edward Island for Rhode Island tomorrow. So tonight there was an emphasis on lobster, a Lesley R. favorite food. Thus, there was lobster salad. (Lesley constructed it. No one does it better). A steamed lobster. (This was intended as a Lesley treat. But, the generous lady dismantled it and gave every one a taste). A cherry tomato, sweet onion and feta cheese salad. L and M brought back some tiny potatoes from Noel and Yossi’s garden. As big as the marbles HG played with as a youngster. Full of mineral PEI flavor. Quickly boiled and given a hit of olive oil and chopped parsley. BSK made a lush and comforting oyster pan roast. (Following the Grand Central Oyster Bar recipe). Cheese platter. Crusty bread. Lots of wine. Change is in our thoughts. GGS is off to begin two years of college studies in France. An adventure (fraught with the usual anxieties). HG/BSK know that GGS will triumph. In any case, Lesley and Massimo R. plus HG/BSK will join her in Reims for November vacation. HG has researched the Reims dining scene. A festive culinary time is assured.

HG did some contemplation today and came to the conclusion that HG is a very fortunate senior citizen (love that euphemistic, condescending description). For much of the year, HG is surrounded by HG’s children and grandchildren. (Happily, BSK is omnipresent). Collectively, they are an endearing group. They amuse HG and are amused by HG. They don’t take the old gent too seriously and take HG’s old fart eccentricities with equanimity. Fortunately, they share HG’s love of food and drink. (However, they are not vodka and brandy addicts but do enjoy wine and beer). After a perfect day on the Prince Edward Island beach and sea (the water was seasonally warm, almost Floridian in its temperature) the clan knocked off an evening meal that stressed the local specialties. Lesley R.(with assistance from sous chefs BSK and EM) prepared a big stew of mussels, quahogs (hard shell clams), spicy PEI sausage, tomatoes and herbs. Served over capellini with plenty of good bread to soak up the juices. BSK dressed a lovely green salad and Massimo R. presented a platter of local and maritime province cheeses. Red wine. The two charming dogs, Pip and Toby, gamboled about. The setting sun presented a palette of extraordinary shapes and colors. Did HG mention that HG is “fortunate”? That is a profound understatement.

Bright sun. Soft breeze chasing away mosquitoes. Sea waters warm with gentle waves. Perfect for swimming. HG’s family was off to various beaches while HG unfolded a beach chair on the secluded patch of beach in front of the HG/BSK home. Solitude allowed HG a naturist day. The mature chap swam, sunned and read without the benefit of a bathing suit. Between swims HG read Inventing a Nation: Washington, Adams, Jefferson by Gore Vidal. The title is a bit misleading since Vidal spells out the role of two other illustrious Americans, James Madison and Alexander Hamilton, in the “invention” of the United States. The book is slender but very illuminating, written with Vidal’s usual brio and containing many mordant comments about the lamentable state of politics and government in the land of the free and the brave. HG was struck by the fact that the ongoing battle between two factions–the “states rights”/anti-strong central government faction and the Federalist/strong central government faction–began at the very inception of our republic. The present day Tea Party is just a modern manifestation of a very old trend. Reading the book, HG was reminded that our founding fathers were not only brave (if the American revolution failed they would swing from English gallows) but remarkably erudite. They could think and they could write. Yes, we’ve slid downhill. Intellectually stimulated and physically relaxed, HG was ready for some big time feasting as dinner approached. Equipped with a sturdy glass of ice and Myriad Strait Gin (a flavorful spirit distilled on Prince Edward Island at the Myriad View Distillery) listened to Bill Evans jazz as Exquisite Maiko and Lesley R. prepared dinner. First, there were cups of SJ’s hearty haddock chowder (left over from an SJ-hosted dinner the previous night). This was followed by what could only be called Magic Time. EM served her unique scallop pancakes (scallops, cabbage, onions, flour, etc.). Crisp, juicy wonders. These were showered with bonito flakes and adorned with squirts of Japanese mayonnaise or Bulldog sauce (a semi-sweet Japanese condiment). There was more. EM flattened slices of pork tenderloin, dipped them in beaten egg and Panko, fried them in peanut oil. Yes, this is Tonkatsu, an HG piggy favorite. Greaseless and crackling crisp. HG likes them with Frank’s Hot and Sweet Chili Sauce and Matouk’s fiery West Indian Hot Sauce. EM prepared a big bowl of cabbage slaw, a slaw mixed with sesame oil, lemon juice, etc. Marvelous. But, impossible to reproduce because it is dependent on EM’s knife skills which EM utilizes to cut a head of cabbage into thread like filaments. Lesley R. backed up the slaw with an exuberant salad of sliced cherry tomatoes, sweet onion and basil dressed with good olive oil. Later, there was poker and for HG (who hates games) there was brandy with Peychaud’s Bitters. A perfect day.

Birthday dinner for Gifted Daughter Lesley R. (looking particularly radiant) and the clan gathered at Terre Rouge Bistro in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. While completely delicious, the meal was an affront to the heath police and cardiology guardians. Featured were artery cloggers like roasted marrow bones, pork bellies, pate, ham, compound butter, macaroni and cheese. The birthday lady, who received gracefully some gifts, stuck to PEI sea bounty–scallops and mussels. BSK surprised HG. Usually, BSK denies the truism that fat is flavor. Does not eat chicken skin. Trims fat from pork chops, prosciutto, etc. But, on this festive night BSK ate with hearty appetite a very robust dish of pork bellies. Didn’t leave a sliver of fat. Of course, BSK’s appetite was tepid compared to that of Handsome Haru. Fresh from a vigorous day at tennis camp, HH attacked the shared plates with an enthusiasm that was a tribute to his HG lineage. Teru, the wee bundle of cuteness, was at the table for almost two and a half hours and maintained perfect aplomb. Found a special treat: A very good cherry jam condiment. The meal ended with an interesting creme brûlée and a variety of gelatos. Much fun. But, HG is going to heed Tony Soprano’s advice to a chubby colleague: Time to stick to salads.

Hooray!! At last. A sunny beach afternoon. Walking, swimming, lounging, wading, playing with the adorable dog companions—Toby and Pip. All beach activities contained special delight following days of Prince Edward Island rain and grey skies. Dinner was a mad delight. Six noisy kids. Nine ravenous adults. SJ and Exquisite Maiko were in charge of cuisine. The northeast coast classic: Lobster rolls. Plus, EM’s beautifully composed shrimp and avocado salad and Lesley R.’s tomato salad. SJ barbecued baby back ribs. Their brown sugar rub went up in flames creating a dense, salty char. SJ, a barbecue perfectionist, was distressed. HG loved them and they were gobbled up by an appreciative crew. Responsive to a range of food likes and dislikes, SJ was busy barbecuing steak, hamburgers and sausages plus boiling corn. The kids made noise and chomped away. The adults were a shade more restrained as tequila, vodka, white wine, red wine, beer, ale flowed in abandon. HG concluded: This is what summer is all about. Avoid restraint, quiet and delicate dining. Just have fun. (Of course, it’s very helpful to have Sj and EM acting as your caterers).

There is something very heartening about dining on food you’ve planted, harvested or caught. There is nowhere better to do this type of foraging than Prince Edward Island. There, abundance describes “found foods”. On yesterday’s grey Prince Edward Island morning, SJ, Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia and Handsome Haru drove to a harbor near Panmure Island and fished for mackerel. Garnered a dozen gleaming beauties. Later in the day, HG/BSK, Exquisite Maiko, darling little Teru joined them at Noel and Yossi M.’s nearby home. They were greeted by the baa-baa sounds of three adorable sheep (much admired by Teru). After examining the lettuce crop, the cherry trees and unearthing a gigantic horseradish root, the group was off to gather quahogs (hard shelled clams) from the shore of St. Mary’s Bay. Some of the group dug into the shoreline with clam rakes. HG/BSK, veterans of many years of clam hunting in Long Island’s Great South Bay off Fire Island, simply wriggled their toes in the muddy shore bottom. The seasoned HG/BSK toes could feel the difference, when they hit a hard object, if it was a clam or a rock. The collective effort produced some 30 clams. Tea and butter tarts at the M. residence. Back home with the catch the group was met by Adam S. (noted composer, Academy Award Nominee and founder of the power pop group Fountains of Wayne and SJ’s close friend since infancy). With Adam were his two young daughters; sister Laurie and her son and daughter, Handsome Haru acted as host of the younger set and took them off to explore bluffs and beach. The elders devoted themselves to vodka, tequila, white wine and laughter. EM got busy with mackerel. Fileted the fish with her usual expertise and saved some of them (preserved with salt) for later grilling For dinner, EM chopped some filets for her superb tataki and marinated some slices with onions and cherry tomatoes. A fabulous way to start dinner. The rest of the folk got busy with clams, scrubbing them clean, steaming and then chopping the big clams and cooking the smaller ones in a savory sofrito of clam juice, white wine, garlic and parsley. The sauce and clams adorned Garofalo linguine which the table of nine adults consumed with gusto. The younger set dined at the sun porch table on penne with oil, garlic and parmesan. Many happy and loud sounds were heard from that vicinity. The adult table was quieter but equally joyous. A glorious sunset added to the merriment.