HUNGRY GERALD

SJ and BSK have been collaborating to produce spectacular dinners at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. SJ made his way to Atlantic Shellfish in Morell and purchased 3 dozen giant Red Head Select oysters. He was concerned at first that the large size might detract from flavor and texture, but he was wrong. These were perhaps the finest oysters that he or HG/BSK have ever tasted. SJ shucked half of them to eat on the half shell; he then grilled the other half on the hibachi for a wondrous treat. SJ has also used the hibachi to produce skewers of spicy Vietnamese-style grilled pork. SJ and BSK did a big platter of haddock based fish cakes (left overs for lunch). Sauteed Digby Bay scallops and many big green salads. BSK’s roasted spatchcocked chicken and small PEI potatoes. Pho with left over chicken, tofu and a variety of vegetables.Steamed soft shell clams with clam broth and melted butter. These have been family dinners. Grandson Haru has contributed a hearty appetite and adorable granddaughter Teru has managed to put away a goodly amount of nourishment. Last night, HG/BSK dined alone (the others were having a pizza feast in Charlottetown). Seemed like a second honeymoon. BSK steamed sole over bok choy and spinach. HG cooked Chinese broad rice noodles with firm tofu (flavored with sesame oil and Sriracha). Drank rose. A happy, quietly intimate meal.

Lots of folks for dinner. Besides BSK, there was SJ and family (Haru and Teru). Also, Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and husband). Plus, Adam S., a surprise visitor from New York. Adam is a rock star (Fountains of Wayne) and a composer (An Academy Award nominee). He and SJ have been friends since their infancy. Haru got a special benefit from Adam’s Prince Edward Island visit. Lessons on Haru’s bass guitar (a birthday present). Dinner was an extravaganza orchestrated by SJ. Some days ago, BSK bought three big racks of pork spare ribs at a bargain prices. SJ gave them a rub of cumin, chili powder, salt, paprika, powered garlic, white pepper, dried mustard, brown sugar, and other spices. Improvised a smoker out of an old bbq and cooked for four hours over chunks of smoldering white oak. He also made a large pot of Japanese chicken curry, basmati rice and an unusual side dish of stewed red cabbage mixed with onions, carrots and blazing Scotch Bonnet peppers. HG gazed at this vast array of food and guessed that there would be leftovers for the next week. BSK disagreed. Just wait and see, was the BSK message. The food was fabulous. SJ is a barbecue maser and the ribs were masterpieces. HG concentrated on them and rib bones piled up on the HG plate like a mini-mountain. SJ made barbecue sauce. Not necessary. The ribs needed no adornment. HG was too full to try the chicken or cabbage but HG’s table mates did them justice. Only a small amount of food was left. As usual, BSK was right.

As followers of hungrygerald.com may have surmised, Prince Edward Island, the site of HG/BSK’s oceanfront home, has the best, freshest (and inexpensive) oysters, clams, lobsters, haddock, cod, halibut, sole, sea scallops, hake and salmon. Plus, mineral rich potatoes, yellow beans, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and other wonderful things from the rich soil. A happy change from landlocked, high desert Santa Fe, HG/BSK’s home for many months of the year. However, HG does miss the lavish, spicy breakfasts that are featured at many Santa Fe area restaurants serving New Mexican/Tex/Mex food. Near HG/BSK’s home is Sopaipilla Factory. This is where HG eats a cheese enchilada Christmas style (fiery red chile and more moderate green). This is topped by two softly poached eggs. Fresh from the oven sopaipillas (Mexican kin to popovers) and many cups of coffee. At Tune Up Cafe on Hickox Street, a giant breakfast burrito smothered in green chile is featured. The burrito is stuffed with potatoes, peppers, onions, eggs and bacon. Guaranteed to chase away gloom and hunger. At Tecolote Cafe on St. Michael’s Drive, portions are super huge. The green chile is fiery and robust. The cooks are expert in egg cookery. HG likes scrambled eggs soft and runny (the French call it “baveuse”, translated as “oozing). And, this is how the cooks prepare a platter of three silky soft scrambles. This is covered with a generous mantle of green chile and a pile of steamed, warm tortillas. When very hungry, HG orders a side of splendid hash browned potatoes. Oh, my!! El Parasol (a few hundred yards north of Sopaipilla Factory) is HG’s place for lunch. Green chile menudo (tripe stew) showered with chopped onions and accompanied by salty crackers, is an HG addiction. HG discovered breakfast burritos at Pete’s Kitchen on Colfax Avenue in Denver (HG/BSK lived in Colorado for a number of decades). Pleasant but pallid compared to the New Mexico wonders. However, at the time they seemed like culinary wonders.

Sj sourced organic beef short ribs at the Charlottetown, PEI, Farmers Market and built a spectacular Korean dinner around them. There were three elements to the meal: Korean grilled short ribs; fluffy basmati rice; a fiery version of kimchee jigae that was part traditional Korean and part SJ creativity. Here’s how SJ constructed the soup/stew: First he built a savory broth by simmering the short rib bones,leeks, celery, onions, ginger, dried Chinese mushrooms for hours in boiling water. Strained to get rid of bones but saved bits of the meat clinging to them. The broth was then added to slices of raw pork belly, tofu, cooked kimchi, onions, Korean chili paste and Korean chili flakes. Result was a soup/stew with multiple layers of heat and flavor, all delicious. HG added scoops of rice to give it body. Thankfully, SJ made lots of this dish. Had it for lunch the next day with leftover rice. Crowning glory came a day after. SJ added ramen noodles. Delight.

BSK and SJ form a mighty culinary team. HG benefits happily from their skills and creativity. Dinner last night started with Red Head Select oysters shucked expertly by SJ. These oysters (HG’s favorites), like Johnny Flynn’s Colville Bays, have green-tinged shells. They are plump, briny, delicious. This was followed by an appetizer teaser. SJ cut thin vertical slices of young zucchini (from BSK’s garden). Dipped them in a simple batter and gave them a quick fry. Wow.!! Then BSK took over. Sauteed a pound of Digby Bay sea scallops. Don’t know BSK’s timing secret. But, BSK scallops always hit the peak of tender juiciness. The scallops got a hit of lemon juice and were the preface to the main dish that expressed BSK’s creativity. BSK made an unusual pesto. The ingredients: Garlic scapes, fresh garlic, walnuts, flat-leaf parsley, olive oil, feta cheese, parmesan. Linguine was cooked to al dente perfection. The pesto and pasta created one of the most creamy, fragrant, lush dishes in HG’s long history of pasta eating. Viva BSK!! Dramatic sunset. Ice cream dessert. Climax to a day of beach sun and swimming. That’s life on Prince Edward Island.

Yes, SJ is extraordinary. Multi-talented. HG ranks SJ with Alexander Lobrano as the two best food/restaurant writers. SJ’s blog oishigevalt.com should not be missed by anyone who enjoys dining, cooking and insights into the culture of Tokyo. (that’s where SJ resides with his family). SJ is also an authority on Jamaican music; a former reggae merchant; a much in demand reggae disc jockey (under the name “Scratch Famous”) who has spun before audiences in New York, Brooklyn, London, Paris, Berlin, Manchester, Sydney, Melbourne, Okinawa, Hong Kong and now, of course, in Tokyo and other Japanese cities. SJ is also a publicist and a creator of music-related promotional materials. SJ is a devoted father and husband. SJ is always alert to HG’s disabilities and is helpful and caring. Yes, HG loves and admires SJ. With good reason. SJ is the best son a man can have. Like all members of SJ’s family, SJ loves food, wine and family dining. And, SJ is a very good cook. The other day, SJ and BSK picked up 2 lbs of fresh halibut and 2 lbs of hake. Here’s the Prince Edward Island dinner SJ (with BSK as sous chef) made last night. SJ cooked leeks, peas, spinach, onions, garlic and tarragon (an abundance). This melange was pureed with some olive oil, salt and pepper into a velvety flavorful sauce. The halibut — absurdly fresh — was cut into thick steaks, dusted with flour and fried in olive oil. Lightly browned exterior; juicy interior. Sous chef BSK cooked yellow beans (HG’s favorite vegetable) and boiled some tiny PEI potatoes. The cooked halibut rested on a bed of yellow beans and was covered with the green sauce. The spuds got a sprinkle of parsley. A memorable (and healthy) dining experience.

The next night SJ took on the hake. Hake is part of the cod family and is a wonderful but quite unattractive fish. Doesn’t appear often on American menus although it’s a staple in Spain and France (first tasted it in Madrid and Barcelona). Sometimes appears at Whole Foods and can be found (frozen) at Costco. The filets are wonderful fried, steamed, broiled or baked. Very versatile. HG has praised hake before. Check hungrygerald.com archive: “Hanging With Hake”, Sept. 23, 2011; “Hake The Chinese Way”, June 25, 2014. Here’s how SJ did it. SJ dusted the filets in flour seasoned with a touch of cayenne, white pepper and salt. Dipped them in beaten egg, then rolled them in panko. SJ carefully fried the filets in canola oil. Done in minutes. Before placing the deliciously browned fish on a warmed platter, SJ rested them on a wire rack to let the excess oil drip off onto paper towels. Light. Crispy. Not oily. Best fried fish ever. So good that BSK will double the hake order on next shopping trip.

SJ has arrived from Tokyo with tall, grown-up son, Haru, and long-legged adorable daughter, Teru. They joined gifted daughter, Lesley R., her husband, Massimo, and beautiful/brilliant daughter/granddaughter, Arianna. Missing are Exquisite Maiko; granddaughter, Sofia R.; GF’s daughter, Victoria, and her husband, Marc Meyer, the noted chef. Maiko has professional chef obligations in Tokyo and Victoria and Marc are in New York working to complete their new restaurant, Shukette. However, the bulk of HG/BSK’s family is together on Prince Edward Island so there is much joy. (Toby, The Wonder Dog, is happy to frolic again with Pip, the R. family’s delightful doggy). Sunny, warm beach days with much swimming (water is unusually, warm). The group is feasting. Seafood galore. Massimo has been shucking scores of Colville Bay, Malpeque, Red Head Select and Savage Harbor oysters. (The Professor is an expert shucker as well as being the world champion dishwasher administrator). SJ has fried some of the larger oysters dusted in Japanese Panko. Delectable. BSK has made creamy brandade using fresh cod that has been poached in bonito flake broth. Outstanding. There has also been a large bowl of lobster salad ready to be packed into toasted rolls. Linguine with white clam sauce and clams casino. (Clams harvested by the family in the waters of St. Mary’s Bay). Crispy, fried haddock. And, Prince Edward Island mussels, of course. Unexpectedly, little Teru is a big fan of mussels and can put away happily a big bowl. Lots of laughter, lots of food, lots of wine, beer, gin, and savory Scotch liqueur. And, best of all, lots of love.

HG’s family likes to eat big bowls of leafy green salad dressed with a good vinaigrette. HG rarely indulges. That’s because throat cancer surgery decades ago has interfered with HG’s swallowing apparatus. Crispy, crenulated leaves cause nasty coughing. Two salad exceptions: Daughter Lesley R.’s Newfoundland baby shrimp salad and BSK’s yellow and green bean salad. They were both part of last night’s dinner and HG swallowed much with pleasure and ease. Don’t see yellow beans in many USA supermarkets but they are grown in many farms here on Prince Edward Island. (See Hungry Gerald post Aug. 31, 2014 for an appreciation). Paris bistros should take bean cooking lessons from BSK. Traditional bistros serve haricot verts and string beans cooked to a mush and modernist bistros serve them raw and inedible. Here’s how BSK cooked yellow and green beans last night. Boiled until they reached the perfect al dente crunch. Then a rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Dressed with olive oil, lemon juice, Maldon sea salt, smoked black pepper and a shower of herbs. A delight. Meal began with crisp fried zucchini blossoms from BSK’s garden; shucked Colville Bay oysters (distinctive green tinged shells); Lesley’s shrimp salad. This was followed by steamed soft-shell clams, green salad, bean salad, cups of Andrew MacDonald’s lusty mussel chowder. Nice anthology of PEI sea and farm treats.

Joy!! Gifted Daughter Lesley R., her husband, Massimo, and HG/BSK’s brilliant and beautiful granddaughter, Arianna R. are with HG/BSK at the family oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island. And, with them is endearing Pip, their very intelligent dog. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is overjoyed at the companionship. Only R. family member missing is Sofia, who is sweltering in New York. Sunny, warm days on PEI. (As HG writes, HG gazes at Lesley and Massimo in kayaks on a calm sea). Yesterday was a scorcher so there were many swims interrupting beach lounging. Returned home from the beach parched and sunbaked. Comforting showers and cold drinks (a large Negroni for HG). Appetites kicked into high gear. BSK’s sister, Noel, and husband, Yossi, arrived for dinner bringing a rack of lamb, many vegetables, a large bunch of fragrant lavender, all from their verdant Ocean Mist Farm. (Noel and Yossi are super industrious and athletic, top flight equestrian and horse trainers as well as being farmers, builders and livestock breeders. Despite advancing maturity, they seem to be constructed of steel and copper wire). For dinner, Lesley (with BSK as sous chef), prepared a lusty Basque influenced casserole. Onions and garlic were softened in olive oil (big Creuset baking dish was used). White wine and stock were added to a few layers of thinly sliced potatoes plus browned fennel sausage and chopped Kalamata olives. When the potatoes were just about cooked, sliced tomatoes were added. Finally, the delicious melange was topped with two pounds of haddock filets. Brief baking to keep the fish cooked but firm and juicy. Then under the broiler for a brief glaze. The result was a culinary masterpiece. A baguette from the Cardigan Farmers Market soaked up the savory juices. Big green salad followed. Copious wine (red and white) was drunk. Finale was Lebanese “Halwa.” HG sipped Portuguese Bagaco (marc) from a local vineyard. The end to a perfect day.

Sometimes HG/BSK break classic culinary rules and enjoy a dinner folks may think odd. Last night, for example. With a pleasant cocktail in hand (tequila, dry vermouth and lemon juice), HG shucked and devoured some Malpeque oysters (BSK drank pinot grigio on the rocks). HG switched to the white wine for the second course of softshell clams dunked in broth and melted butter. For the main dish of sweet potatoes, both HG and BSK switched to a robust Argentine Malbec. BSK’s sweet potatoes are peeled, sliced into batons and baked to a crisp with olive oil, garlic and herbs. That’s the way BSK likes them. Meanwhile, for HG a big (scrubbed but not peeled) sweet potato baked in the oven for more than an hour. The result was a soft, lush sweet potato. HG sliced it open and added butter, sea salt and ground pepper. Celestial. Brought back memories of the sweet potatoes sold on Bronx streets when HG grew up during the Great Depression. Glad that sweet potatoes are a popular street food in Japanese cities.