HUNGRY GERALD

Mornings at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home follow a distinct pattern. BSK arises much earlier than snoozing HG. Lets Toby, The Wonder Dog, out for his morning ablutions and brief exercise. After about twenty minutes, BSK opens the door for Toby so the little fellow can enjoy breakfast. But, not this morning. Toby was busy chasing a squirrel around the outside deck and rose bushes. As always, the squirrel proved elusive. Then, Toby did something extraordinary. The Wonder Dog pushed his way into the dense foliage bordering the HG/BSK acreage. There were sounds of Toby’s journey (he had never ventured into these thorny greens before). This was followed by silence. Distraught BSK (all of this was happening before BSK’s morning wake up coffee) tried to coax Toby out. No success. More than a half-hour of silence. BSK donned appropriate protective clothing and ventured into the bushes in the belief that Toby’s collar was snared. No sign of Toby. Sad BSK gave up. Was there a coyote lurking who had lured and then killed Toby? Finally, BSK heard sounds of Toby’s collar and its metal tags. A piece of chicken brought Toby out of his hideaway. Joy and relief. And, where was HG during this adventure? Snug under the covers and peacefully sleeping.

Autumn on Prince Edward Island. Leaves are beginning to turn. Whitecaps dot the sea in front of the HG/BSK home (40 feet of windows provide startling visuals of the sea, birds, clouds, sunsets). Warm weather will return for a spell as it usually does in PEI September. In the meantime, BSK concentrates on cooking that warms the body and spirits. A BSK specialty is soup (HG has written about this skill before. Sept. 4, 2019). Today, BSK harvested the tomatoes, red and green, that made a comeback in BSK’s vegetable garden after Hurricane Dorian. This was supplemented by tomatoes purchased at the Charlottetown Famers Market from a man identified solely as “The Cherry Tomato Man.” This gentleman told BSK that BSK’s brother in law, Yossi M., is “the coolest guy on PEI.” HG agrees. Back to the soup. BSK placed quartered tomatoes on a cookie sheet. Olive oil. Salt and pepper. Roasted in the oven. Red peppers were roasted over open flames on the range (these would give the soup a tantalizing hint of smoke). BSK removed the blackened skins of the peppers and cut them into strips. Onions, garlic (abundant), chopped celery and carrots plus the peppers went into a pot for softening. The roasted tomatoes were added. Chicken stock poured into the pot with sprinkles of cumin and aleppo pepper. After cooking, BSK used an immersion blender to bring the soup to the proper level of smoothness. Winds were blowing as HG lunched on a bowl of the steaming, multi-flavored soup. Superlatives cannot do it justice. Bravo, BSK!!

Yes, HG consumes scores of oysters each year with gusto and expertise. HG never adds anything to a raw oyster. No mignonette, no hot sauce, no lemon juice. HG wants to enjoy the sea taste, subtle variations in texture, levels of brine without any interference. In HG’s opinion, cloaking the flavor of a raw oyster (or clam) with sauce is akin to ordering a steak “well done” or lavishing ketchup on all manner of food. HG has eaten oysters in many places. Florida (oysters are tasteless). New Orleans (dangerous because of pollution). Baltimore (pretty good). Barcelona (fair). Madrid (poor). A superior restaurant in New York, Grand Central Oyster Bar, offers splendid oysters from Long Island, Rhode Island and Maine (and their cooked oyster dish, Oyster Pan Roast, is mind-altering). However, the best oysters are found outside of the United States. Rodney’s Oyster Bar in Vancouver, B.C., serves a big variety of oysters, perfectly shucked and chilled. (An innovation is a freshly grated horseradish used by HG as a palate cleanser between oysters). Nothing compares to the elegance and ambiance of eating oysters in a good French brasserie (Le Stella or Astair) or bistro. On a side trip to Reims in Champagne country, HG had lovely oysters (much cheaper than Paris). HG believes the best oysters in the world can be found a few miles from HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island. At Island Shellfish in the Town of Morell, HG buys large and lush Red Head Selects and Malpeque Superiors. (BSK’s favorites are the green-tinged Coleville Bay oysters from The Lobster Shack in the Town of Souris. Smaller than HG’s lusty choices). Hurricane Dorian diminished temporarily the variety of oysters at Island Shellfish. Savage Harbor oysters were available yesterday. HG bought two dozen. Modestly sized but extraordinary in flavor. Savage Harbor has a new fan.

Wisps of sun seemed determined to break through the clouds on a breezy Saturday in Prince Edward Island. HG/BSK went off to the Charlottetown Famers Market. HG picked up a bag of tiny (really tiny) potatoes, one of the riches of PEI’s red soil, plus a pound of fresh haddock. These products (plus spinach and cherry tomatoes) would be the elements of the night’s dinner. BSK concentrated shopping on greens, onions, etc., plus a big bone for Toby, The Wonder Dog (he gnawed it happily later in the day). After completing banking and other errands, HG suggested lunch at King’s, a much-touted Chinese restaurant. Prescient BSK was not enthusiastic but agreed. King’s was very disappointing. Chinese families and couples occupied the other tables in the restaurant and seemed to be dining with pleasure. Did HG/BSK order the wrong dishes? Is King’s worth another visit? Only good Chinese food HG/BSK ever ate on PEI was at Summer Kitchen in Charlottetown. It lasted about one year before closing. There are a number of Chinese (and Japanese) groceries on PEI and a growing Asian population. So, why no good Chinese restaurants?

There’s a chill in the Prince Edward Island air and some leaves are beginning to show autumn colors. There are pork chops in the freezer (from organic pigs raised at Ocean Mist Farm). Hey, time for a New Mexico meal, a staple at HG/BSK’s Santa Fe County home. The chops were brined, dried, dusted with Goya Adobo and sizzled in a cast iron pan until the exteriors were brown and the interiors a juicy light pink (overcooking destroys pork chops). BSK prepared sauteed peppers and onions (nobody makes this better than BSK). HG opened a can of Canadian black beans (Goya is not available on PEI but these beans were acceptable). Heated the beans with a squeeze of garlic. Topped them with chopped onions, sour cream and Cajun spices. Salad of local yellow beans, scallions, and feta cheese. Drank a good pinot noir. Happy meal from The Land of Enchantment on The Enchanted Island.

HG has happy memories of perfect New York meals. At Veau D’or: Brains in back butter preceded by sausage with warm potato salad. At The Russian Tearoom: Blini with red caviar, melted butter and sour cream preceded by borscht. At Paul & Jimmy’s: Poached striped bass in brodo with a starter of linguine with white clam sauce. At Christ Cella: Lump crab meat cocktail, New York strip steak, Roquefort cheese salad. At Gitlitz Delicatessen: Pastrami and chopped liver on rye with coleslaw, Russian dressing and pickles. At Delsomma: Penne in broccoli sauce, pork chops with vinegar peppers and potatoes. At Fornos: Margaritas and roast pork with Spanish potatoes and broiled bananas. At Luchow’s: Pfefferlinge (wild mushroom fricasee) and Schlemershnitte (steak tartar covered in Beluga caviar). Blue Ribbon: Grilled bratwurst with sauerkraut and home fries followed by apple pancake. Artist & Writers: Dry martinis and koenigberger klops (meatballs in a dill and sour cream sauce). Paramount Dairy: Warm gefilte fish in fish broth and kashe varnishkes with mushroom and onion gravy. Nom Wah (of yesteryear): Dim sum. (HG has written about HG’s perfect meals at Gage & Tollner in a previous post). These are all joyous meals but they pale compared to the meal HG would relish often at the counter of the Grand Central Oyster Bar. Eight chilled oysters on the half shell. Oyster Pan Roast. Nesselrode pie. The pan roast was prepared behind the counter in a special pot by a dour, unsmiling older Italian. It was incomparable, redolent of the sea and the richness of farmland. For years, HG/BSK have tried to replicate this dish. The ingredients and cooking technique are simple. However, HG/BSK have always failed. Their attempts created a pallid dish, in no way comparable to the Oyster Bar wonder. HG tried again last night using big, plump Red Head Select oysters. The result: FAILURE.

Heavy rain is washing away the salty residue (from Hurricane Dorian) on the windows of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. It’s time for a comforting breakfast. HG mixed the kernels of last night’s leftover Blum’s sweet corn into pancake batter and sizzled a batch of pancakes which were doused with Canadian maple syrup. Glasses of orange juice and multi cups of steaming coffee. Comfort achieved. HG usually has a spartan breakfast of Greek yogurt and fruit (nectarines rule). However, rain and cold call for warming breakfasts. These are some HG favorites: Grits topped with poached eggs (as only BSK can make them). Egg noodles with butter, salt, pepper, and ricotta cheese. Oatmeal with dried fruit. Wheatena (a childhood cereal favorite) accompanied by cups of hot chocolate (using Droste’s cocoa). Beautiful Vancouver has many rainy days. Locals call Vancouver, with affection, “Rain City.” When HG/BSK occupied a loft in the colorful Mt. Pleasant neighborhood, HG would have the ultimate rainy day breakfast at Congee Noodle House restaurant on Broadway. Big bowl of congee (rice porridge) topped with nuts. Rice crepes with barbecued pork and shrimp. Thin-skinned juicy wontons floating in a bit of chicken stock. Many cups of hot tea. HG intends to have that savory breakfast when HG/BSK visit Vancouver this November (an HG birthday–90–treat). Rain is anticipated and welcomed.

Hurricane Dorian dealt Prince Edward Island a blow. No, not like the Bahamas. No houses were blown away. No injuries. No fatalities. A store in the small town of Montague lost its roof; trees were uprooted blocking roads and damaging electric wires. The sea in front of HG/BSK’s oceanfront home was a white froth of churning waves. The rain was intense. Winds howled ferociously knocking out the electricity so no lights, water or internet — resourceful BSK planned wisely for this eventuality, stockpiling candles, lanterns and bottled water. Though the storm sounded ominous, HG/BSK kept snug and dry. Morning found the house un-damaged; the same could not be said for BSK’s carefully tended vegetable garden which was torn apart by the winds. With the power still out, BSK/HG kept informed by battery-operated radio. Grateful for the gas stove so HG/BSK had plenty of hot coffee, ate much Blum’s sweet corn and enjoyed pasta dishes smothered in vegetables — all by the romantic glow of candlelight. HG/BSK had blissful hot showers last night (Sept. 9) after power and water were restored. Internet became functional an hour ago (Sept.10). Today, the sea is calm, the sun is bright. Perfect day for a walk along the bluffs with Toby, The Wonder Dog.

Delightful guests. Rob H. and wife, Kimber W-H, arrived at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island for a two or three-day visit. Rob and Kimber are New Mexico neighbors. Rob was the very effective leader in defeating the efforts of a Texas company to build dangerous electric power lines in the serene and scenic Pojoaque Valley where HG/BSK and gifted, creative neighbors live. (BSK describes her role in the successful campaign as “minor”). Rob flies his own plane and he and Kimber landed in Charlottetown on Thursday. Pleasant locavore dinner of sweet corn (Blum’s best) and fried hake with tomato/onion/feta salad. Canadian butter tarts with vanilla ice cream for dessert. Meal was enhanced by their gift of Rodney Strong cabernet. Snifters of local Myriad View Moonshine was the after-dinner finale. A happy time dining and conversing with erudite, interesting, charming (and kitchen helplful) Rob and Kimber. Alas, their visit was cut short. Friday was sunny and BSK, K. and R., enjoyed walking on beautiful Greenwich beach followed by lunch at the Lobster Shack in Souris. But, Hurricane Dorian was threatening so Rob and Kimber deemed it prudent to fly to Bangor, Maine, while the weather was still good. Wished their visit was longer. The consolation: HG/BSK will see them in New Mexico.

BSK’s talents are endless. Brilliant in art, cuisine, design, architecture, light construction, home repairs. Also a superior professional political, economic and environmental strategist (Hey, BSK saved a scenic Colorado canyon from being turned into a gravel pit!). Here, on Prince Edward Island, BSK has surrounded HG/BSK’s oceanfront home with a beautifully composed and colorful garden of flowers and shrubs. And, next to BSK’s studio/garage, BSK has cultivated flourishing crops of zucchini, cherry tomatoes, lettuces, and herbs. During SJ’s recent PEI sojourn, SJ beguiled his family with fried zucchini blossoms and slices from the garden. Last night, HG/BSK kept things local for a pleasant dinner. HG shucked Red Head Select oysters (big and juicy). BSK pan-broiled lots of cherry tomatoes in olive oil, parsley, garlic (from Ocean Mist Farm). It was served over tagliatelle and sprinkled with torn basil, red pepper flakes and parmesan. Sublime. HG finished the meal with a snifter of moonshine from the Myriad View distillery in Souris. Locavore luxury.