HUNGRY GERALD

Greek Yogurt is a staple ingredient of the delicious and healthy cuisine prepared BSK. These nutritious meals keep 95-year-old HG alive and reasonably mobile and articulate. Yogurt is the principal dish at breakfast: mixed with dried fruit compote simmered by BSK; washed down with a BSK smoothie. (Some 20 vitamins and meds are swallowed and the meal ends with a cafe au lait). Yogurt is an ingredient in much Indian cooking and chicken is tenderized and flavored by a yogurt marinade. Shakshuka (delightful poached egg and vegetable stew) is popular in Israel and other Middle Eastern countries. It is topped with spoonfuls of yogurt mixed with zaatar and a squeeze of lemon. (BSK is non-pareil in crafting this dish). HG enjoys the sauce with many lamb dishes. A favorite is Kefta, a grilled ground lamb-onion-garlic cigar shaped burger. Heavenly when tucked into a pita with a splash of yogurt and some spicy peppers and slices of red onions. A pleasant Greek dessert is a bowl of yogurt topped with walnuts and pours of honey. Yes, yogurt is consumed throughout the Middle East—but all the countries believe Turkish yogurt is the best–and Turkish yogurt dishes are tops. Have yet to find the product in the USA so Greek Yogurt is the choice in HG/BSK’s kitchen. 

When HG was a young guy in The Bronx (1930’s and early1940’s), HG  indulged in many foods that cost a dime (yes, a few cost fifteen cents–and you could get a nice nosh–Indian nuts (pignolia nuts) or pumpkin seeds from subway dispensers. Cost: A penny. Little HG managed to earn some coins helping to carry packages for women shopping. Sturdy wee chap would lug packages up many flights (few elevators in those Great Depression days). Here are the items the fledgling foody ate:  White Castle burgers  (tiny and tasty); Hot Dogs (from long closed Nedick’s); Chili aka “bowl o’red” (served at diners to hard working men –and accompanying salt crackers were gratis); Charlotte Russes and Pizza slices (one sweet treat and one savory treat sold at the Bronx’s Arthur Avenue Italian food neighborhood); Knishes (HG ate Gabila knishes–later in life tasted far superior knishes at Yonah Shimmel on the Lower East Side); Sour garlic/dill pickles from Bronx “appetizing store” barrels; Toasted Almond Good Humors; Orange Ices (sold in the street from rolling carts during warm months),  Big chunk of garlic salami from Jewish delicatesses (“ah nickel ah shtickel”) ;  Can of Campbell’s Pork & Beans (Warmed at home–Mom didn’t know it contained forbidden “trayf” pork)’  Joyva Halvah squares and Little Chunkies (best candies); Candy store pretzels straight and long and traditional twisted shape served with a chilly Egg Cream (HG’s recipe for an Egg Cream was published in the New York Times food section).  The best treat of all was the Takee Cup served at Rockaway Beach, The “cup” was a small bowl made of dried noodles and filled with glorious chow mein. Sold on the Boardwalk, HG ate it with pleasure while being invigorated by Atlantic Ocean breezes.

BSK bought two splendid fish filets from Fearless Fish, the sterling fish merchant in Providence. They were two of HG/BSK’s favorites—John Dory and Salmon. BSK cooked the John Dory on a sheet pan. BSK cooked chopped peppers, onions, olive oil, parsley, and garlic until they were softened and full of flavor. A splash of white wine helped make a sauce. BSK topped the vegetable melange with the sparkling John Dory filets and put the pan back in the oven for a few minutes  (Happily, BSK follows the advice of the great chef Eric Ripbert–don’t overcook fish). John Dory may be the closest to European Dover Sole of fish found in American waters. This was a magnificent supper in HG/BSK’s Centra Falls, RI, loft. On the next night, it was Salmon’s turn to star. While sweet potatoes baked in the oven–BSK gave them time–BSK invented a fish friendly green sauce. Ingredients included parsley, olive oil, gàrlic, c/ilantro and other herbs plus spices. BSK roasted the Salmon in the Paris bistro manner—medium rare, silky and juicy flakes. The Salmon was topped with spoonfuls of BSK’s slightly chunky sauce. Fish heaven on a plate. Bliss. The combination of sweet potato and Salmon is an HG/BSK invention and tradition. Never saw it on any menu. HG melts much butter in the hot sweet potato—diet and health conscious BSK just gives her potato a minimal sprinkle of sea salt.

A spectacular  Chinese dinner tonight at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Present were Arianna R. (HG/BSK’s glorious, talented, beautiful granddaughter who BSK/HG have not seen  for many months); gifted daughter, Lesley R.,and her husband, Professor Massimo R. (Ari, Lesley and Massimo will soon leave for Italy and a reunion with HG/BSK lovely granddaughter, Sofia). Ari, like HG, is a passionate fan of Chinese food.  She lives in Colorado and enjoys the scenic state–however, alas, there are no good Chinese restaurants. So, she requested dinner from Chengdu Taste, the gourmet eatery in Providence. Lesley did the ordering and Massimo picked up the food.  Oh, my!! Dumplings, wontons;  hot & sour soup, ma po tofu (HG fave); noodles; cumin lamb, fish –and more  (eggplant and string beans–plus a big bowl of rice). A zillion thanks, Ari, for requesting a Chinese feast. (HG wrote this post days ago. After the Chengdu feast, Arianna, Lesley and Massimo left for the Italian city of Padua and a reunion with Arianna’s sister, Sofia. Later in the week they were joined by HG/BSK’s son, Jeremy, and his son, Haru. The two Tokyo guys are doing an international tour–Istanbul, Italy, etc. It’s a graduation present for Haru and recognition for being accepted at a prestige college. So, it was a big time multi cultural family get together).

When there’s leftover roast beef on a restaurant dinner menu it will turn up the next day as part of a roast beef hash (Keen’s in New York serves the ultimate hash). Thrifty use of ingredients. BSK adopts this philosophy in BSK suppers and lunches in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI.,loft. Here’s some things BSK can do with a fridge full of wilted greens and superannuated vegetables plus two cans of Cannellini beans. First, there’s “Green Soup”—BSK cooks the fridge contents in chicken stock and adds chopped onions, garlic, olive oil and a host of herbs and spices. When sufficiently softened, this is pureed with an immersion blender. Heat is turned to simmer and BSK adds the beans. This is a spicy (Aleppo pepper) soup that is the essence of comfort. The other can of beans is used in many yummy dishes crafted by BSK. The best is Pasta e Fagioli–a small shaped pasta (Ditalini,Orecciette, Orzo) is cooked. in another pot, leaves of escarole are boiled. In a saucepan, ol/ive oil, chopped onions, garlic and celery are cooked to make a savory sofrito. Drained pasta and chopped escarole are added to the pan–plus a can of drained beans. Before serving, the dish gets a splash of olive oil and a sprinkle of red pepper flakes . (This was a favorite dish of the late, great Fiorello LaGuardia, Mayor of New York, who called the dish “Pastafzoole”, New York Italian dialect). Do like the “Little Flower”–dust helping with grated parmesan or romano–and eat with gusto and glasses of Salice Salentino.

Daughter Lesley R. came for supper last night while her husband, Profesore Massimo R. was conducting his cinema series at Brown University (where he is a tenured Professor and director of the Italian Studies Program). HG/BSK and Lesley had a stupendous meal. BSK created a long simmered stew of Bell & Evans chicken thighs and Lollipop Drumsticks. (Bell & Evans is the leader in packaging the best and freshest chicken parts (also whole chickens). Don’t know all of the ingredients of the BSK stew–but HG could identify chicken stock, olive oil, garlic, onions,potatoes. The stew contained fresh and dried herbs and spices plus an exuberant amount of fiery Spanish Pimenton. The stew was served on a bed of black lentils enriched with slices of golden beets. It was topped with spoonfuls of herbaceous Greek yogurt. The happy eaters drank a very good red—Salice Salentino. Joy.

Now that BSK is back in HG/BSK’s  Rhode Island loft, suppers have become astounding (yes, daughter Lesley R. cooked sumptuous suppers for HG when she took care of HG during BSK’s trip to Tokyo). BSK doesn’t mind the expense of super ingredients for special treats. Fearless Fish, the expensive seafood store in Providence, is pricey. All of its fresh and smoked fish, salads, etc., are remarkable and their specials are celestial. BSK picked out a special for supper last night–skate wing wrapped around a ball of herbaceous chopped scallops. BSK gave it a gentle saute and gilded the dish with the warm olive oil and lemon juice. This was the best fish dish HG ever ate –on a par (and very much cheaper) than Dover Sole at Le Dome in Paris.

Not everyone loves Tofu with HG’s passion. Many identify it with communes and “flower children” of earlier decades. On its own Tofu is tasteless—it absorbs flavors happily when added to other ingredients. HG prefers silken Tofu and adds it to egg drop soup, ramen, stir fries, stews and ragouts. It enhances everything. Moreover, Tofu is healthy, low in calories and a good source of protein and other nutrients. There are many recipes for fried tofu using firm or extra firm Tofu, pressed to remove liquid before sizzling. HG is not fond of these dishes. However, HG always enjoys Agedashi, the Tofu appetizer served at Japanese restaurants–fried with a gossamer thin coating and dipped in a pleasant sauce. On summer days, HG cuts slices of silken chilled Tofu–sprinkles them with a squeeze of lemon, sesame oil, fish sauce and a tiny bit of hot sauce. Tops them with finely chopped parsley—a refreshing dish when the weather is steamy.

Happy, happy HG. So glad to welcome the safe and sound BSK after BSK’s mammoth flight from Tokyo. BSK had a grand time there–enjoying BSK’s loving reunion with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, and their grown up children, Haru and Teru. (BSK will author posts in coming days giving all the details). Gifted daughter,Lesley R., took superlative care of HG in BSK’s absence–HG is very grateful. However, HG was lonely in HG/BSK’s king size bed–BSK’s fragrance, ambience and bed talk are very welcome—BSK’s presence warms up HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. (Yes, after 61 years, HG is still in love with BSK). Thoughtful Lesley left a welcoming pot of chickpea soup (a riff on Marcella Hazan’s recipe). Yum!!. The next night, a tired but active BSK cooked a fabulous linguine in a sardine sauce dish. The basic ingredient was Portuguese premium sardines bought at Portugalia (A giant Portuguese food and wine emporium in Fall River, MA.–must  go there and buy sardines for upcoming summer stay at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island).

Some followers of HG have queried HG: “What is the best restaurant meal you have ever had ?”  HG pondered and narrowed it down to meals in three cities—New York, London and Paris. Best New York meal was at long closed Christ Cella, the eminent steak house (Scotch Sour; lobster cocktail; medium rare sirloin steak and creamed spinach; eclair dessert. Beverage was Guinness/IPA Black and Tan);  Runner up was Gage and Tollner– Shad and Shad Roe in the Spring. Drank Chablis and had sauteed clam bellies as an appetizer. In third place was Keen’s (Mutton Chop for dinner and Roast Beef Hash for lunch). Drank ale. In London, the two great restaurants were the Savoy Grill in the Savoy Hotel and the Connaught Restaurant in the Connaught Hotel. HG ordered the same meal in both places. Smoked salmon with a flute of Champagne; Mixed grill with souffle potatoes. Drank English dark ale. J. Sheekey (seafood) was the runner up. (Fish Pie; mixed grilled fish). English dark ale, once more. Paris, glorious Paris. Le Stella Brasserie was a favorite.  A classic meal: Oysters. Bulots.(On the house Champagne reserved for favorite customers like HG/BSK); Rack of lamb with French fries; Marcellin cheese; IIe Flottante for dessert, Espresso and Martell Cognac.  Drank the good house Bordeaux with the lamb and the cheese, Champagne with the dessert.  HG/BSK had robust regional meals at Ma Bourgogne (Jambon persillé, quenelles in nantua sauce, apricot tart, Bourgogne red wine). Unquestionably, HG’s choice of the best restaurant meal HG has ever had was at Le Dome. Here’s the glory: Gillardeaux oysters; sauteed frog legs; Grilled Dover Sole with potato puffs in a rich, lemon juice enhanced butter sauce; Berthillon ice cream for dessert; espresso and cognac to finish; Muscadet and chablis throughout the meal. Astounding culinary pleasure that would cost 600-650 euros today.