HUNGRY GERALD

HG had a simple memorable meal last night. What made it happen was the visit (by auto and ferry) by daughter Lesley Riva and granddaughter Sofia Riva, to HG’s daughter, Victoria Freeman, and her husband Marc Meyer’s Long Island (the Hamptons) vacation home. The Rivas had a warm welcome and a  sumptuous meal prepared by Marc Meyer, renowned farm-to-table chef. (Marc and Vicki are partners in the group that owns and runs five popular New York restaurants founded by Marc and Vicki–Shukette, Shuka, Vic’s, Cookshop and Rosie’s). One of my favorite dishes–Brandade–the creamy garlicky salt cod, potato, olive oil puree. (The salt cod gets many soaks in cold water before cooking). Marc’s Brandade is perfectly balanced in terms of texture and taste–better than any Brandade HG ever tasted in Paris. Heavenly. Thughtful Marc, knowing HG tastes, packed a large container for Lesley to bring to HG in Central Falls, RI. HG had a large bowl last night topped with an egg poached by BSK  Wow!!  A zillion thanks, Marc. This was preceded by an excellent starter of pickled herring and onions. Drank Pilsener beer and was happy.

The weather was crisp and clear (no snow) on Christmas Day as HG/BSK and the Riva family (daughter Lesley and husband, Massimo, their beautiful daughters, Sofia and Artanna—Plus A’s companion,Adam) gathered at the Riva Riverside, RI, home for a day of fun, feasting and opening scores of presents. The gifts varied–glamorous, whimsical, useful, practical, health conscious—and funny. Breakfast/brunch featured Lesley’s tasty crepes topped with soft, buttery scrambled eggs, red salmon caviar and sour cream. Oh, my!!! Dinner was a Lesleyl extravaganza of lusciousness–Osso Bucchi (veal shanks) cooked into soft and tender meaty morsels. They were nestled in a fabulous sauce that topped a RIsotto Milanese (a Massimo specialty). Softly braised fennel was the vegetable. Gremolata and grated parmesan on the table to enhance the veal shanks and risotto. Massimo was the sommelier. He served a lovely Brunello with the main dish and a powerful Barolo with the cheese course. The family heralded the joy of being together with pre-dinner toasts of icy Prosecco. From the large variety of cheese, HG selected a slice of perfect gorgonzola with fig jam (the pungent cheese was the best ever). HG finished HG’s red wine with a bowl of homemade flan. While sipping white port, HG contemplated HG’s good fortune in having a loving, talented, activist family. They keep HG alive.

HG/BSK and the Riva clan–Daughter Lesley and her husband, Massimo; daughters Sofia and Arianna (plus Arianna’s companion, Adam)–have a delightful version of the Italian Christmas Eve food tradition–the “Feast of the Seven Fishes”. HG/BSK call the meal “Feast of six Jewish Fishes”. New York’s venerable Russ and Daughters  delivered the ingredients to Lesley and Massimo’s Riverside, RI. home. The fish (and fish salads) included smoked Nova Scotia salmon, sable, Alaska red salmon caviar, tobiko, pickled herring, whitefish salad, salmon salad. Star of the meal was the smoked salmon. Obviously, a virtuoso salmon slicer had been at work. The slices were paper thin, thus enhancing the taste and texture. Before tasting the salmon, Lesley made blini topped with red caviar and sour cream–( Reminiscent of the great dish served at the Russian Tea Room decades ago).Super yummy!! Lots of condiments–capers, chopped and sliced onions, cornichons. “Schmears”—horseradish cream cheese, scallion cream cheese. Breads–bialys, bagels, rye bread. HG had the fabulous “Novy” on warm bialys covered with horseradish cream cheese–ate the pickled herring with chopped onions and drank a splendid Massimo discovery—Yuengling’s Black and Tan beer (The sardonic Irish named the drink after the uniforms worn by the British troops who fought the Irish revolutionaries). The smoked salmon brought back London memories of years ago. At the beautiful Connaught Hotel dining room HG/BSK would have almost transparent slices of Scotch smoked salmon before the mixed grill main dish. When HG/BSK remarked on the slices, the waiter said: “Well, sir, the man slicing the salmon has been doing it for 30 years”. Drank port after the meal and opened presents. More to open on Christmas Day. Joy.

Yes, HG/BSK are fond of the healthy and tasty Middle Eastern dishes Yotam Ottolenghi serves at his London restaurants and offers at his delicatessens/shops. Happily, BSK utilizes many recipes from his cookbooks (clear directions and lovely photographs). Of course, creative BSK makes many changes and additions to the  recipes, making them unique collaborations between BSK and Israeli/Anglo Yotam., One such dish (enjoyed last week) was a wondrous casserole of ground lamb, eggplant and yogurt–inspired by Greek Moussaka. Oven was heated to 450 degrees  Lamb, eggplant, garlic, tomato paste, cinnamon, allspice , oregano, olive oil,  onions and a splash of hot sauce went into a roasting pan and were vigorously mixed before going in the oven for 35 minutes ( contents were stirred at intervals to brown the lamb and soften the eggplant). Oven was upped to 475degrees–roasting pan was removed and canned tdmatoes, chicken stock, chopped parsley were added (more mixing) and then back in the  hot oven for 15-20 minutes.until all is soft , bubbling and fragrant. When cooled slightly, BSK topped the roasting  pan with a mix of yogurt, egg yolks, feta cheese, parmesan ,garlic, parsley, hot sauce–and a bit of flour for thickening. Finally, tt gets a shower of toasted pignoli nuts. HG/BSK called this dish –Stupendous!!!. Drank much red wine with it.

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Birthday dinner for BSK’s kid sister, Noel M. She’s 75 but looks years younger—wiry, slim, muscular, flexible–fabulous equestrian and teacher of horse vaulting, a demanding equine discipline. Wonderful having Noel and husband, Yossi M., here in Rhody. They are on their way to Las Vegas, the home of their son, Erik and his wife, Lisa. Champion vaulters, they are the stars of their exciting horse show, “Gladius” (seen by appreciative audiences in numerous American arenas). The birthday celebration was at the Riverside, RI, home of HG/BSK’s brilliant and caring daughter, Lesley R., and equally brilliant and  talented husband, Massimo R. Many toasts (Massimo provided his usual excellent wines). Rousing songs. Dining table centerpiece featured a cluster of birthday candles. Lesley outdid herself by cooking a Sicilian swordfish pasta—lots of fish mixed  with olive oil, black olives, garlic, onions, peppers, tomatoes and other good things–all enhanced by a judicious use of herbs and spices, There was a big green salad plus cheese, Vanilla ice cream for dessert. A happy, festive family night.

Friday night at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft and HG/BSK had a wonderful supper dish from a Yotam Ottolenghi cookbook. It’s a one pan dish (less clean up for BSK)–paprika chicken with lentils, squash (BSK used yellow beets instead of squash) and vinegar. The ingredients included boneless/skinless chicken thighs, onions, garlic, sweet paprika and fiery paprika (Spanish Pimenton); cumin, yellow beets, olive oil, French green lentils, chicken broth, dill, chives, sour cream and Daqua. The dill and chives are mixed in a bowl of sour cream (or yogurt).  Daqua is an Egyptian condiment–a mix of cumin, garlic , vinegar, sugar, salt and a bit of water. At 450 degrees, chicken is browned and the beets, onions, lentils, etc. are softened –takes about 20 minutes–heat is turned down to 350 degrees–and the dish is cooked for an additional 40 minutes). When done, the Daqua is stirred into the dish and the baking pan is dotted with the yogurt  mix and a shower of toasted pignolia nuts  HG/BSK had generous helpings of this lush dish but left enough for lunch tomorrow with BSK’s sister , Noel M. and husband, Yossi M. They are staying at the Riva home in Riverside but lunch with HG/BSK tomorrow. HG is sure they’ll relish the chicken dish. Sunday is a birthday party dinner for Noel M. –75– at the Riva home. So glad N. & M are making a Rhody visit on their way to warm weather at son Erik’s home in Las Vegas, Nevada.                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

BSK (The love of HG’s life) cooks delectable meals every night at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI. loft. An eminent restaurant critic said that great restaurants must serve outstanding food–but also be consistent. That describes BSK’s home cooking. Yes, HG eats well at home but also at Rhody’s numerous ethnic restaurants, clam bars, oyster eateries, etc. The state’s official dish is squid with hot peppers–Ocean State folk enjoy robust food. However, sometimes wistful nostalgia overtakes HG when he recalls restaurants of the past when HG/BSK lived in New York and New Jersey. New York winners: Grand Central Oyster Bar and its fabulous Oyster Pan Roast. (Still open and thriving).  Gage & Tollner famed for its mutton chop, sauteed clam bellies and shad and shad roe when in season (Closed for some years but now reopened–lofty prices). Christ Cella–best steak in the world (long closed). Sammy’s Roumanian–schmaltz, icy vodka, very good Eastern European/Jewish food served in a room bursting with noise, music and Jews having a drunken good time. (Original location closed but now reopening in a new downtown location). Coach House–Superb lamb chops, black bean soup (long cllosed). Sweets–plain spoken seafood restaurant (Long closed). Russian Tea Room–salmon caviar and blini, borscht, karsky shashlik (HG refers to the RTR of years ago. It closed and reopened as a glitzy, insipid “luxury” restaurant). Rappaport’s–best Jewish “dairy” restaurant (long closed). Le Veau d’Or–A cozy happy bistro reminiscent of Paris and serving classic dishes like brains and black butter (long closed but has now reopened with excellent food and stratospheric prices). HG/BSK enjoyed Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean food in the Chinatown, Flushing and Sunset Park neighborhoods.They are still going strong. New Jersey: Belmont Tavern in Belleville has gained national fame with its Stretch’s Chicken Savoy and bowls of cavatelli in tomato and cheese sauce. Stretch is gone but the dishes remain lush with no changes. RT 46 in Clifton is home to many wonderful Italian restaurants and their many fans keep them busy.

HG/BSK’s wonderful daughter, Lesley Riva, is a renaissance woman–multi talented and brilliant. She’s the communications director of a major health service provider. She’s a wonderful cook; a clear sighted adviser to her two adult daughters–Arianna and Sofia; loving wife, partner and companion of Massimo Riva (happily married for many decades). She’s an irreplaceable aid to HG/BSK–her selfless assistance has helped HG  be 95 and reasonably mobile.  Lesley sings with RPM, a rousing interracial gospel chorus.  A few nights ago, HG/BSK attended a performance by RPM  at the Beneficent Church in Providence. A blessed night, indeed. There were outstanding solos and many songs punctuated by rhythmic hand clapping from the audience. Beneficent is a historic and beautiful church with a long history of social activism. It was a stop on the “Underground Railroad”,the escape route from the South by Blacks fleeing slavery. It welcomed Chinese, when Chinese were targets of hate and persecution.Today, the church notes it is “Queer Friendly”. In this time of darkness, Beneficent remains a beacon of light.

HG/BSK have a pleasant custom–alternate home dinners with daughter, Lesley R. and her husband Massimo. (They live in Riverside, RI, a moderate drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft). HG/BSK follow this custom at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home with BSK’s sister, Noel, and her husband, Yossi, even though this means a 40 minute drive. This Sunday it was dinner at the HG/BSK home.  Lesley and Massimo generously provided a Chinese feast  (L. and M. know that HG lusts for Chinese gourmand treats). The food came from Chengdu Taste, a restaurant that compares with the very good eateries in New York’s Chinatown, Sunset Park and Flushing neighborhoods. Sunday’s supper began with hot and sour soup (the best HG ever tasted). This was followed by Szechuan fish (spicy); wontons in chili oil(super spicy); mapo tofu  (moderate level of heat); minced pork (lusty veggie sauce); stewed eggplant (HG’s favorite vegetable dish–just slightly below in-season sweet corn); string beans (a BSK fave); ample rice noodles and white rice. HG was beyond happy–HG was ecstatic. Everyone drank Gansett Pilsener–very much like a Czech beer. Lesley and Massimo:  A zillion thanks from HG/BSK.

Supper last night was a tasty BSK improvisation—fish curry. BSK cooked monkfish on the range in a saucepan. The fish nestled in a sauce of fish stock, olive oil,garam masala, onions, garlic, curry powder and Indian spices. BSK added some chunks of zucchini. (HG made HG’s portion “picante” with Frank’s Hot Sauce). Served on a bed of rice and accompanied by Major Grey’s Chutney, the food warmed body and soul on a chilly night. Monkfish is a good choice for this dish. It stays firm and tender after simmering. Halibut would be an alternative. Alas, too pricey. Cod, unfortunately, would fall apart in the pan. BSK has never cooked monkfish before. HG is sure BSK will improvise sauteed and baked or roasted monkfish suppers. Monkfish tastes a bit like lobster so melted butter with a squeeze of lemon juice might be a good idea.