HUNGRY GERALD

Today, HG is a venerable age–95. Never in HG’s wildest dreams did HG ever think HG would live so long. Some 50 years of two pack a day cigarette smoking (plus cigars). Heavy drinking—Martinis at lunch and cocktail hour. Radical cancer surgery. Nevertheless, HG is still alive–infirm but hungry–looking forward to a celebratory dinner (hosted by gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her illustrious husband, Professor and author Massimo R.). Matunuck Oyster Bar is the destination. The reason for HG’s longevity–BSK. The glorious woman has given HG 24/7 care for many years. Vitamins and medications, healthy and tasty meals, help in walking, dressing, etc. The list of things BSK does for HG is encyclopedic. This has meant sacrifice for BSK. Meeting HG’s demands gives BSK little time for BSK’s creativity–painting and pottery. Obviously, the solution is grim–farewell to HG life. HG doesn’t want that to happen –yet. And, BSK battles to keep Mr. 95 alive.

HG’s favorite New Yorker cartoon—Penne on the telephone:  “Fusilli, you crazy bastard! How are you?”. For some obscure reason, HG has never liked Fusilli, the corkscrew shaped pasta. Why? A mystery–since HG loves every other pasta shape–long,short or chunky. Last night, BSK cooked fusilli with a savory sauce of olive oil, zucchini, chicken broth (modest amount) , feta cheese, garlic and bacon. The Fusilli gathered each bit of the sauce and each bite was heavenly. So, you crazy bastard, all is forgiven. BSK has made Fusilli a supper treat.

Glad that HG/BSK live in Rhode Island. While America voted for autocracy, Rhode Island stayed true to its traditions and elected a Democratic Senatorial candidate as well as other Dems running in the election (Of course, Harris won big in Rhody). A visionary minister and theologian, Roger Williams (1603 was expelled from Massachusetts because he believed that “liberty of conscience” be espoused by religion. He also believed in freedom of religion, separation of church and state, fair dealings with Native Americans.) .He founded Providence Plantation (later the State of Rhode Island) based on these principles. (Obviously, Rhody still believes in them.) George Washington summed it up in a letter to the Touro Synagogue in Newport –“to bigotry no sanction—to persecution no assistance.” Touro Synagogue, a national historic site, is still standing. Completed in 1763, Touro is the oldest synagogue in the United States. Rhody is a very diverse state–many working class neighborhoods (with immigrant majorities). Mansions galore ($10,000,000 to $29,000,000–Newport started it all). Elegant, affordable houses with water views. With water power available, Rhody was part of the industrial revolution. The loft buildings that once were mills have been converted to loft condominiums—HG/BSK live in a 3,200 square foot loft in Central Falls–loads of light from giant windows. The State is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and intersected by numerous bays and rivers. It is a seafood paradise–world’s best oysters, clams and squid (Calamari and hot peppers is the official Rhody dish). Loads of fresh fish–many line caught. There are also homey clam shacks and oyster bars for casual noshing. There are ethnic restaurants by the dozen–Portuguese, Cape Verde, Mexican, Spanish, Italian, Asian, etc. In Central Falls where HG/BSK live, Central American cuisine reigns. You won’t go  hungry in Rhody–valued stronghold of Democracy and Democrats.

When son Jeremy lived in Brooklyn with his family, he introduced HG/BSK to his version of New Orleans gumbo. SJ’s gumbo was filled with good things (chicken, sausage, okra, shrimp. the New Orleans “Holy Trinity” of celery, peppers, garlic, etc.) and thickened with  File spice. HG/BSK relished every bit of it. Noting the pleasure,  SJ made the dish many times. He and wife, Maiko, now live in Tokyo with son, Haru, and daughter, Teru. They have just celebrated the fourth anniversary of their busy izakaya, Freeman Shokudo, and gumbo is on the menu (along with pastrami and other much lauded barbecue specialties.) To honor the occasion, BSK made BSK’s own version of SJ’s gumbo using Bell & Evans tender chicken drumsticks, shrimp, spicy andouille sausage, okra, chopped spinach and fennel—plus the “Holy Trinity”. Fortunately, BSK made a big pot–a “double header” of BSK’s gumbo sensation—enough for two suppers and one or two lunches at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Weather is turning chilly in Rhody but BSK’s gumbo warms body and soul.

It is a joy to have a wonderful daughter, Lesley R., close (15-20 minute drive) to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Lesley R. and brilliant husband, Massimo R., live in Riverside, RI, with their sweet dog, Pip, and HG/BSK’s Wonder Dog, Toby—-The frisky little guy summers with HG/BSK on Prince Edward Island. The proximity is dear after so many years living thousands of miles apart. Lesley came to dinner last night alone (Massimo was working). Among a staggering bundle of skills and talents, Lesley has a flair for cooking lush and flavorful dishes. Last night, supper was a super bowl of shrimp and grits. Grits are an HG fave–a happy memory of some childhood years being fed by a motherly Black woman in Athens, Georgia. Lesley’s grits are the best–she cooks them with a blend of cream cheese, butter and chicken broth—creamy goodness that enhances all–Lesley tops her grits and shrimp with a perfect sunny side up fried egg. Oh. Boy!!  (When motoring with BSK, HG stops at Waffle House for grits topped with a poached egg and flanked by a syrup slicked waffle. No, not up to Lesley’s high standards—but serviceable on a long voyage).

BSK bought a superlative Bell & Evans chicken at Market Basket in nearby Attleboro, MA. (B & E are the best chickens in the USA). BSK spatchcocked the bird, marinated and roasted it to perfection. With some appropriate accompaniments, it was the star of supper at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.  HG/BSK managed to eat most of the chicken but there was enough left over for BSK to make a big pot of Vietnamese Pho, rich with shredded chicken and silken tofu. Pho for supper on the following night was a pleasure–enough Pho in the pot for some light lunches. Yes, BSK rivals HG’s late beloved Mom in making many meals from a plump chicken. (BSK made a robust chicken broth from the chicken carcass, skin, and innards). BSK also bought B & E drumsticks at Market Basket. Hopefully, BSK will use them for a creamy chicken fricassee (there’s a good recipe in the Oct. 25 NY Times). 

This was on every Jewish dairy restaurant menu when HG was growing up in The Bronx. No, it wasn’t super salty Lox that was mixed with scrambled eggs. Milder Novy was the smoked salmon used and genly sauteed sliced onôns were added to the mix. HG’s Mom served it many times and it was a Sunday brunch staple in the Freeman home. HG hasn’t tasted the dish for many decades but BSK brought back happy memories at lunch today. BSK served HG soft scrambles and excellent Novy. Golden oldy perfection. The champion of all smoked fish & egg dishes is the sturgeon and egg dish served at venerable Barney Greengrass on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. Of course, HG is fond of smoked salmon or sable on a cream cheese covered bialy.  Russ & Daughters has the best smoked fish and “schmears.”