HUNGRY GERALD

It is a joy to have a wonderful daughter, Lesley R., close (15-20 minute drive) to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Lesley R. and brilliant husband, Massimo R., live in Riverside, RI, with their sweet dog, Pip, and HG/BSK’s Wonder Dog, Toby—-The frisky little guy summers with HG/BSK on Prince Edward Island. The proximity is dear after so many years living thousands of miles apart. Lesley came to dinner last night alone (Massimo was working). Among a staggering bundle of skills and talents, Lesley has a flair for cooking lush and flavorful dishes. Last night, supper was a super bowl of shrimp and grits. Grits are an HG fave–a happy memory of some childhood years being fed by a motherly Black woman in Athens, Georgia. Lesley’s grits are the best–she cooks them with a blend of cream cheese, butter and chicken broth—creamy goodness that enhances all–Lesley tops her grits and shrimp with a perfect sunny side up fried egg. Oh. Boy!!  (When motoring with BSK, HG stops at Waffle House for grits topped with a poached egg and flanked by a syrup slicked waffle. No, not up to Lesley’s high standards—but serviceable on a long voyage).

BSK bought a superlative Bell & Evans chicken at Market Basket in nearby Attleboro, MA. (B & E are the best chickens in the USA). BSK spatchcocked the bird, marinated and roasted it to perfection. With some appropriate accompaniments, it was the star of supper at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.  HG/BSK managed to eat most of the chicken but there was enough left over for BSK to make a big pot of Vietnamese Pho, rich with shredded chicken and silken tofu. Pho for supper on the following night was a pleasure–enough Pho in the pot for some light lunches. Yes, BSK rivals HG’s late beloved Mom in making many meals from a plump chicken. (BSK made a robust chicken broth from the chicken carcass, skin, and innards). BSK also bought B & E drumsticks at Market Basket. Hopefully, BSK will use them for a creamy chicken fricassee (there’s a good recipe in the Oct. 25 NY Times). 

This was on every Jewish dairy restaurant menu when HG was growing up in The Bronx. No, it wasn’t super salty Lox that was mixed with scrambled eggs. Milder Novy was the smoked salmon used and genly sauteed sliced onôns were added to the mix. HG’s Mom served it many times and it was a Sunday brunch staple in the Freeman home. HG hasn’t tasted the dish for many decades but BSK brought back happy memories at lunch today. BSK served HG soft scrambles and excellent Novy. Golden oldy perfection. The champion of all smoked fish & egg dishes is the sturgeon and egg dish served at venerable Barney Greengrass on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. Of course, HG is fond of smoked salmon or sable on a cream cheese covered bialy.  Russ & Daughters has the best smoked fish and “schmears.”