HUNGRY GERALD

Garrison Keiller wrote that sweet corn is better than sex. HG, speaking from the vantage point of 61 years of happy marriage, must disagree. However, sweet corn is a blessing and eagerly awaited by HG/BSK. On Prince Edward Island (that’s where the HG/BSK/RIVA families have their oceanfront home), sweet corn arrives in early to mid August. Yes, it’s enjoyed much earlier in the United States. This morning BSK joined a long line in the Town of Montague to buy three dozen ears from the Keddy’s Farm truck (best corn on the Island). Dinner tonight started with sea scallop ceviche and a green bean salad. Main dish was sauteed haddock topped with garlic chips. All was tasty but the unquestioned star of the night was the abundance of buttered sweet corn. There were nine at the table–HG/BSK and their daughter, Lesley R. plus her husband, Massimo R; Son Jeremy and his Tokyo family, wife Maiko Sakamoto, their son, Haru and daughter Teru, plus Maiko’s Mom; HG’s daughter, Victoria Freeman, the New York restaurateur. Everyone ate at least two ears and some folks enjoyed three. There will be much corn in the immediate future–corn fritters, corn chowder, buckwheat pancakes speckled with corn kernels (pass the Canadian maple syrup). Heavenly fressing.

HG’s wonderful daughter, Victoria Freeman, has arrived. Usually, her annual trip for a family reunion at HG/BSK/RIVA’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home has been marred by mishaps–cancelled flights, inconvenient landings, etc.–a short flight would turn into an epic of delay and hours long tedium. Not this time. Everything went smoothly and a smiling Vicki made a grand entrance–beautiful as usual. Earlier in the day, Exquisite Maiko visited Naufrage Harbor in search of fresh mackerel; while there was no mackerel to be found, a boat returned with a freshly caught 300 pound tuna. After butchering the large fish, the kind fishermen gifted Maiko the head of the beast. She spent the day laboriously cutting apart the head, delivering up a large amount of delicious tuna. For dinner, EM served seared tuna with ponzu sauce and clams steamed in sake. This was served alongside sautéed vegetables and tahina-beet salad. There was a big salad of local greens and a cheese platter. Cheeses came from daughter, Lesley R. and husband, Massimo R.’s six hour ferry trip to the Magdalen Islands (strictly francophone,only French is spoken–no English –all signage is in French–lucky that Massimo has some fluency in French). Magdalen Islands produces spectacular goat cheese and other yummy cheese delights –tohght’s cheese platter was a gourmand treat.. HG/BSK will have to visit these Islands. HG has a vision of baguettes, sweet butter, cheeses, red wine–seated comfortably and with a good appetite gazing at miles of blue water and sandy beaches. These are French islands, part of Quebec and an exemplar of the French talent for cheese and pleasure.

Pleasantly cool and sunny day on Prince Edward Island. HG/BSK; son Jeremy; grandson Haru and granddaughter Teru; gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Massimo R., gathered around the dining table in HG/BSK/RIVA’s oceanfront home. The group awaited a superlative Japanese meal (HG had hoped for it but it would have been unmannerly to request it). The meal was in the talented hands of Jeremy’s wife and business partner, exquisite Maiko and Maiko’s Mom (Mom was the chef and Maiko was the sous chef.) On the dining table was a platter containing artfully mounded portions of cool soba noodles (They went into bowls of cold, dashi broth and accompanied the astounding array of tempura). Maiko and Mom stayed in the kitchen, frying morsels and serving them hot after seconds of cooking. Almost dazed with culinary pleasure, the table mates ate and ate while Maiko and Mom did their tempura magic. First came slices of vegetables (Asparagus, peppers, zucchini, etc.–there were also “piquillos al padron”, the small peppers that are usually pan fried with garlic. HG ate a mildly picante piquillo with pleasure). Then came seafood tempura–shrimp, haddock and scallops. Maiko and Mom never sat down and the group was concerned that they did not eat—not to worry, said Maiko, they ate the best bites. Everyone applauded the masterful cooks–many bows–all grateful for the masterpiece meal.

HG ate a pork chop tonight. For almost two years HG has been unable to eat chops, steaks and other meat delights (exceptions were ground meat and long simmered stews). The problem was HG’s increasing inability to swallow becase of throat constriction (unpleasant side effect of throat cancer surgery in 1992). Son Jeremy is an outstanding cook–and at Handsome Haru’s request–SJ fried thin (brined) pork chops in a winey sauce to delicious tenderness. It took some vigorous chewing, but HG  relished a large chop. And, the accompaniments were wonderful–basmati rice topped with black beans and bracing vinegar peppers. HG recalled that HG first tasted the pork chop and vinegar peppers combo decades ago at Delsomma, a New York Italian restaurant–loved it. BSK makes excellent vinegar peppers and there’s usually a jar in the fridge. Lucky HG.

HG/BSK’S Gifted Daughter Lesley R. is a profoundly multi-talented woman – a “Renaissance Woman” indeed.  She has a very demanding career in healthcare communications. Despite 24/7 pressure, she takes care of two frisky dogs and makes herself available for wise counsel essential for daughters Arianna and Sofia. And, yes, she cooks wondrous meals nightly for her and husband Massimo R. when they are at their Riverside, RI., home. Wait, there’s more!! Lesley is on workation at the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home on serene Prince Edward Island—and she cooks dinner (“supper” on PEI) for as many as eight hungry folks (sea air, salt water swims, sun bathing and shore walks sharpens appetites).  Yesterday, was super sultry…Lesley beat the heat with an artfully composed supper – sea scallop ceviche; Newfoundland tiny shrimp salad flavored with much dill; sliced tomato, onion, parsley, feta cheese salad enhanced by a tangy vinaigrette. The main dish was fish tacos (don’t know what fish–cod, haddock??) the tortillas contained–but they were scrumptious. Finished meal with French Vanilla ice cream topped with local strawberries and raspberries. A.supper that  was another Lesley R. triumph.

Shrimp and  Grits!! This is one of HG’s favorite dishes. HG first tasted it in New Orleans and became an addict.  This was many years ago when fortunate HG had a public relations client based in “N’Awlins”. Besides giving HG’s client sage counsel, HG indulged in oysters (fried and  raw on the half shell); grillades; rice and beans; “Po Boys”, and many other delights of Cajun and Creole cuisine. BSK has made many dinners of traditional Shrimp and Grits, much to HG’s delight. But, last night son Jeremy made his own version of Shrimp and Grits. The best ever. HG was transported to culinary heaven. SJ’s version had garlic scapes and other diced vegetables plus herbs,spices and a judicious amount of hot sauce. The grits were cooked to a lush soupy texture. (A bowl of firm grits was left for HG. The old guy will have it for lunch adorned with softly scrambled eggs. Thanks, SJ).                

Simplicity. And, simply delicious. Linguini Aglio & Olio–Pasta in a sauce of olive oil and gently sauteed sliced garlic. Additions are starchy pasta water (to thicken the sauce) and chopped parsley (to add veggie brightness). HG often adds anchovies because HG believes anchovies enliven any sauce without imparting a fishy flavor. The dish is identified with Naples but is enjoyed throughout Italy and the world. It is much favored by Roman men who have it as a late night snack following an evening of alcoholic carousing. HG first tasted the dish at Patsy’s, a pizzeria in New York’s Spanish Harlem. HG became an addict. (in later years, Woody Allen praised Patsy’s pizza making it the prime pizza destination for New York foodies). Last night, gifted daughter Lesley R. cooked her 94-year old Dad a big bowl of Linguini Aglio & Olio.  A joyous meal for HG, comfortable in HG/BSK/RIVA Prince Edward Island oceanfront home as HG drank much Pinot Noir and watched a glorious sunset.

Yes. HG/BSK, Gifted Daughter Lesley and her husband Massimo are bursting with joy at the reunion with HG/BSK’s Tokyo based family–son Jeremy looking trim and younger than his age; SJ’s wonderful wife and business partner, exquisite Maiko Sakamoto; their son Haru, now a man and preparing for college; daughter, 12-year-old Teru, a beauty. And, as a bonus, Maiko’s Mom. She joined the family in making the long journey to HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. (as HG writes this, the Tokyoites are frolicking on the beach in front of the HG/BSK home). Teru anticipates eating many PEI mussels (harvested in nearby St. Peter’s Bay). Lots of talented cooks are assembled so there will be many jolly feasts.

Sofia Riva, her friend, Julia, and other members of the Freeman/Riva families  drove to the shore of St. Mary’s Harbour (close to Panmure Island). They were there to harvest clams. Using their toes to find the clams they had a stupendous harvest—literally hundreds of little necks. So, of course, dinner at the HG/BSK/RIVA Prince Edward Island oceanfront home was “spaghetti con vongole”—bowls of briny deliciousness with tiny bits of clam and lots of good bread to soak up the juices. There were some larger clams and they were used for an appetizer of clams casino. The meal reminded HG of Fire Island many years ago when the unpolluted Great South Bay beckoned HG/BSK and palsl to harvest scores of lush cherrystones. HG owned a nifty clam opener so there were feasts of raw clams on the half shell; clams casino,clams oreganata ,clams posillipo and–no surprise–“linguine con vongole’.

Yossi M. turned 80 yesterday. A favorite “in-law”(He’s married to BSK’s sister, Noel, and they live on their verdant Ocean Mist Farm on the south shore of Prince Edward Island.) So, last night they drove to the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home on the north shore. A lavish birthday party for a mature 80 year old Yossi awaited them. Raised glasses of white wine (accompanied by smoked salmon) for toasts to the 80 year old fellow. Dinner was a classic Spanish paella cooked by Lesley R. (HG/BSK’s gifted daughter).  A big baking pan held delicious sauced golden colored rice. This was topped with juicy slices of chicken and fresh from the sea clams and mussels–plus remarkable–though previously frozen–shrimp. Green salad and cheeses followed. Dessert was French Vanilla ice cream mixed with in season sweet strawberries. (Oh, my!!) Yossi loves chocolate so his birthday gift was a bag of varied top quality chocolate bars (plus other sweet things). A sweet climax to the celebration as the group sipped exceptional dessert wine. HG drank red wine with nibbles of Brittle Brothers fabulous peanut brittle. Ah, life can have some glorious moments.