HUNGRY GERALD

Yes, HG has often written about HG’s love for fish cakes. HG doesn’t recall his beloved late Mom making fish cakes from scratch. Ida Kopkind Freeman fed young HG fish cakes from Citarella (the gourmet seafood chain had its original shop on Kingsbridge Road in The Bronx) and the local A & P supermarket (Young HG usually ate the A & P brand because they were much cheaper than Citarella’s).  During HG/BSK’s summertime residence at the home owned on Nantucket, the HG/BSK family often ate fish cakes with egg sauce at the Downy Flake diner and pronounced them best in the world. Well, Downy Flake no longer rules. Gifted Daughter Lesley R;. is the fish cake Empress.—Last night she made fish cakes from fresh cod bought at Julio’s Seafood ( A shop near the HG/BSK/RIVA Prince Edward Island oceanfront home). Lesley’s version: Crisp. Juicy, Full of sea flavor, Incomparable. They were served with in season PEI yellow beans. Fabulous meal.

Asian (Thai, Korean, Japanese, Chinese) noodle soup packages are a staple food at college dormitories–cheap, tasty, filling, available at almost every grocery. HG/BSK’s brilliant and beautiful granddaughter, Arianna R., was addicted to them during her college days. Each package contained a sleeve of “flavoring”–unhealthy stuff consisting of sodium and chemicals. Ari always mixed the “flavoring” in the noodle soup until she noticed that her blood pressure had climbed to a dangerous level. That ended her addiction. HG often lunches on these noodle soups (Thai Express and thicker noodle Korean ramens are HG favorites). HG throws away all of the additives. HG flavors his soup with a mix of sesame oil, Frank’s Hot Sauce, and soy sauce. Then adds silken tofu (for protein); chopped spinach, bok choy or zucchini (for veggie balance); chopped. parsley (for color). And, that’s it—healthy eating on hot or cold days. (Weather was cool today at HG/BSK/RIVA Prince Edward Island ocean front home, so gracious and gifted daughter, Lesley R., made her Dad a big bowl of packaged Korean ramen. She added tofu and HG’s flavor mix–a big bowl of steaming goodness that made HG happy and nourished. So lucky to have Lesley.

BSK made an HG fave for dinner a few nights ago–a roasted spatchcocked chicken. “Spachcock” refers to  cutting out the backbone of a chicken (Must be an old English word). The procedure flattens out the chicken enabling it to have crispy skin and juicy meat (Even the breast). The French refer to the method as “crapaudine” since the flattened chicken has the contours of a frog. BSK  served the chicken with PEI yellow beans (now in season) and PEI smashed potatoes. Delicious. (HG/BSK are happy locavores when living at their Prince Edward Island oceanfront home with its glorious sea views). On the next night, BSK was inspired by Vietnam and its wondrous “Pho”, a national treasure of soup. BSK cut the roast chicken into small pieces and added them to simmering Pho broth (Available at the Atlantic Supermarket in the nearby town of Montague). More good things–silken tofu, bok choy, spinach, many herbs and spices–went into the Pho plus plenty of quickly cooked rice noodles. Outstanding –and perfect on a grey day. So, that was the nightcap of the doubleheader. It became a tripleheader when there was enough leftover Pho for a hearty lunch for HG the next day–a gift that keeps on giving.

Halibut is expensive, rightfully so, as it is a culinary star. However, for some obscure reason, BSK has had problems cooking the fish. It has never come out right. Problem was solved last night resulting in flaky, lush halibut. BSK cut a thick filet into chunks and cooked them in Greek Avgolemono and rice soup. (The soup is composed of broth, lemon juice and egg yolks). BSK added an over- exuberant amount of rice so the dish was more of a congee than the intended soup, Nevertheless, with a splash of olive oil and hot sauce, it was a delight and the yummy chunks of halibut were praiseworthy.

HG lived in New York for some 30 years as an adult before moving with BSK to Montclair, NJ, in the 70’s. Wow, has Manhattan (and large sections of Brooklyn) changed. Seems to be inhabited by plutocrats (billionaires are a dime a dozen) and young, affluent financial services experts and equally young and affluent techies. Restaurants are shockingly expensive (Hey, even a hot dog costs five bucks). Living space? Four figures a month buys you a cramped, one room “studio”.  (There are still some affordable apartments in gritty areas of The Bronx and Staten Island–and there are bargain meals to be had–not many-in Chinatown, Flushing, Sunset Park). In HG’s day, there was good ethnic dining in Manhattan: German (Luchow’s and Blue Ribbon were the best); Czech (Roast duck on Second Avenue in Yorkville); Mexican and Spanish (Greenwich Village); Irish (Corned beef and cabbage in bars plus pot roast at Connolly’s on 3rd Ave.)- There were numerous good Italian restaurants in town. (Red sauce and fiery scungilli ruled). However, New York had a distinctly Jewish food flavor yesteryear. Savoury delicatessens featuring pastrami were omnivorous (Sadly, only Katz’s and 2nd Avenue Deli remain). Scores of “dairy” restaurants. (Ratner’s, Paramount, Rappaport’s–HG faves–are gone and only two decent dairy restaurants remain). The classic Jewish restaurant Moscowitz & Lupowitz is gone –Motto: “Where The Finer Jews Eat”– (Brains, chopped liver were treats). The cheap “Romanian Broilings” joints where HG’s beloved late Father took HG for garlic infused “karnatzlach” are no more (They were a favorite of Italian mobsters and their Jewish counterparts). Sammy’s Romanian (Bottle of ice enclosed vodka on each table), was a loud, crazy carnival of schmaltz, garlic and tenderloin steaks. HG, son Jeremy, friends (Including the much missed late Adam Schlesinger), business colleagues (Bruce Maguire, Donald Kitchen) went two (Or three) times a year More was life threatening. Suddenly, it closed. Happily, it’s reopening on the Lower East Side.  Cardiologists might picket.

HG is often asked: “What were your favorite restaurants when you lived in New York and New Jersey??” Okay. New Jersey faves: Vincent’s, Harrison NJ. (Best Italian restaurant ever–fried zucchini, steamed mussels, fabulous pastas); Belmont Tavern, Belleville, NJ. (Incomparable Stretch’s Chicken; cavatelli in cheese sauce, scungilli); Mama Lucia, Belleville, NJ. (Raucous, noisy, down home Italian–like having Sunday lunch with a big, voluble Neapolitan family). New York: Nom Wah, Doyers  Street, Chinatown. (Had dim sum there every weekend starting in the 1960’s when it was the only dim sum eatery in the city); Gitlitz Delicatessen, Upper West Side (The best Jewish treats–pastrami, corned beef, chopped liver, tongue, brisket, real rye bread. Better than Katz’s and 2nd  Avenue Deli); Christ Cella, E.44th St. (The ultimate steak house. HG meal:  Scotch sour, lobster cocktail; medium rare sirloin, pan fried potatoes, Guinness Stout, Cognac, coffee). Keen’s, East 30’s ( Wonderful mutton chop and roast beef hash); Gage & Tollner,  Downtown Brooklyn (It was affordable in the 1960’s and 1970’s before it closed and finally reopened in 2023 as a pricey venue. In the old days, HG ate succulent sauteed clam bellies, fried fish and a great springtime platter of shad, shad roe and a  rasher of bacon).

Yes, that’s what BSK did–and the result was delish. Thrifty and creative BSK noticed okra maturing in the refrigerator. BSK believes in old time advice: “Waste not. Want not.”  Before the okra spoiled it was time to use it in a stew. And, on this rainy, grey day at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home, BSK made a heart warming stew that challenged the weather. The ingredients: Okra, of course, plus chicken thighs– cut into bite size shapes–garbanzo beans, garlic, cilantro, mint, parsley, tomatoes, peppers and a bit of tomato paste plus some chicken stock–and a splash of olive oil when serving. Heat loving HG added Sambal Oelek to HG’s portion. So good–and HG was happy BSK made enough of the stew for two dinners. Abbondanza!!

Besides BSK, there has been a happy constant in HG’s long life–Pancakes. Yes, HG loves pancakes. The passion began when HG was eight years old. The hungry little guy would run home (2751 Claflin Avenue in the Kingsbridge neighborhood of The Bronx) from nearby PS 86 on Reservoir Avenue for noonday lunch. Most days, HG’s late beloved Mom, Ida Kopkind Freeman, would prepare buckwheat pancakes smothered in melted butter and Aunt Jemima syrup. (Whole milk, rich in butterfat, was the accompaniment).  Radio was tuned to the Yiddish language station, WEVD (The station’s politics were Socialist–the EVD stood for Eugene Victor Debs, the heroic Socialist leader and Presidential candidate). Sun lit up the dinette windows. Schoolboy HG experienced bliss. HG rarely eats pancakes for breakfast these days. However, BSK often makes savory pancakes for dinner (” Supper”  on Prince Edward Island where HG/BSK spend many months at their spectacular sea view oceanfront home). BSK made a lusty batter containing shredded cabbage, garlic scapes, parsley and juicy sea scallops from nearby Julio’s Seafood Shop. BSK sizzled spoonfuls of batter in sizzling olive oil making cakes with lacy edges and soft interiors. Topped with Bulldog Sauce, they were a tasty treat–HG ate many and drank Pinot Noir. Boyhood bliss was repeated. Brandade is a favorite HG dish–salt cod that is desalinated in many changes of water, garlic, potatoes, olive oil, bit of broth, splash of milk or cream–the mix is pureed and a warm mound is gilded with a bit more olive oil and crowned with chopped parsley. HG likes an emphatic amount of garlic in the brandade. If there are leftovers, BSK forms the brandade into small pancakes, fries them in olive oil and serves the good things as a dinner appetizer with PEI mustard pickle (BSK’s brandade fritters are similar to the codfish fritters hawked at Rome’s Campo De Fiori). Some years ago in Santa Fe, HG/BSK dined at a nearby neighbor’s beautiful home. Before HG went to the dining table, HG drank some glasses of icy vodka and watched a dazzling sunset (Yes, HG drank strong spirits in those days. No more. HG now drinks only wine–sparingly) . Dinner was a surprise–stacks of buttermilk pancakes drenched with melted butter and Canadian maple syrup—rashers of crisp, thick cut bacon and a baguette plus sweet butter.  It all went nicely with a French red Bordeaux. HG/BSK have to try this for dinner one night–but no vodka preface.

Three wonderful things are in season now on Prince Edward Island–Garlic scapes, baby zucchini and strawberries. BSK made splendid use of them for dinner last night. BSK constructed a fragrant, tasty pesto of garlic scapes, parsley, baby spinach, walnuts and olive oil. Whirled in the blender, the pesto was as good or better than conventional basil pesto. The small zucchini were sauteed with chopped garlic and sliced onion (Zucchini is splendid when very young–as the seasons progress, the vegetable grows,large and bloated–watery and tasteless). Instead of traditional pasta, BSK mixed the pesto and zucchini with tortellini. Heavenly. To complete the PEI culinary extravaganza, BSK topped salt caramel ice cream with an abundance of sliced strawberries. Yes, living good in HG/BSK’s PEI neighborhood.

A  classic of down home, savory comfort eating is Shrimp and Grits. Just typing those words sharpens HG’s appetite. BSK is an expert at making shrimp and grits. Simple cooking but each element must be cooked with masterly timing. BSK cooks the grits first and keeps them warm. They are lush and creamy because BSK adds a big chunk of cream cheese to the grits–a culinary trick learned from Gifted Daughter Lesley R. The sofrito (sauce) is composed of softened onion slices, chopped garlic, olive oil, tomato paste and a splash of Frank’s Hot Sauce. Must have some green for color and health so BSK steams some baby spinach and adds it to the creamy grits. Shrimp are tricky–even a slight overcooking makes them rubbery. BSK takes less than a minute to cook the shrimp into sweet, tender lushness. The shrimp nestle on a bed of spinach grits and doused with the tangy sauce–the joyous eating is enhanced by numerous glasses of red Argentine Malbec. Yes, much to HG’s pleasure, BSK makes dinner at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home, a culinary epic. (On PEI, the evening meal is called “supper” and lunch is “dinner”.)