HUNGRY GERALD

O, it’s good to be in the serene joy of HG/BSK/LESLEY R.’ S Prince Edward Island summer paradise. One day drive from Rhode Island with BSK and Lesley R. driving. Toby, The Wonder Dog, and Pip, the intelligent and sensitive female pooch are civilized travelers.  Prince Edward Island is unique. Anxieties and worries melt away in the sun, sea breezes and serenity in the family oceanfront “cottage” (In Canada, that’s what they call a vacation home, no matter if it’s grand, monumental, modest or minimal). Lots of unpacking and making the “cottage” ready for occupancy. Meals were swiftly prepared and tasty.  Lesley made an excellent linguine and sardine pasta one night and followed it up with a cornucopia of local mussels in tangy sea broth served over spaghetti. Good New York restaurants always label their mussel dishes as “PEI”. Not surprising. They are the best mussels in the world and many thousands are farmed and harvested in St. Peter’s Bay, just a mile away from the “cottage.”.

Toffenetti was a big (1,000 seats) glittery restaurant that occupied the northwest corner of Broadway and 43rd Street in New York’s Times Square neighborhood. It was open all night and prices were modest. HG ate there often in HG’s teen and preteen ages. It was famed for the exuberant food descriptions on its menu. This how its ham dinner (ham, sweet potatoes, coleslaw) was described: “Hot Roasted Sugar Cured Ham–Hickory smoked. Delightful beyond expression. Forever luscious, mild and juicy.  Smoking gives the ham an elusive fragrance and flavor. The King of all hams.” HG ate this dish often. Cost less than two dollars. Spaghetti with meat sauce was, according to the menu, inspired by a dish served by Count Bonpensier of Bologna (h-m-m!). It cost a dollar and was insipid but filling. Did the food live up to the lyrical hype?  No, the ham dish was quite ordinary; however the prose-heavy eatery had a long run—1940-1970. 

During one of HG’s early visits to Paris, HG frequently dined at La Coupole, the large and venerable (founded in 1927) brasserie in Montparnasse. It had a wonderful art deco interior enhanced by touches from  artists. HG’s first meal at La  Coupole was a half dozen briny oysters followed by sole meuniere (with tiny boiled potatoes). Chocolate mousse for dessert. Yes, a perfect Parisian meal. Alas, the brasserie went downhill after being acquired by a chain. Since then, under various ownerships, it has had ups and downs. HG doesn’t know if it’s good anymore or just a tourist trap. One of La Coupole’s featured dishes was chicken curry. Even during the brasserie’s best period, the dish was terrible. HG recalled that curry this week after dining on BSK’s superlative chicken and cauliflower curry (the addition of cauliflower was BSK’s innovative tweak). Major Grey’s Chutney and Sambal Oelek on the table for taste enhancements. HG had two big helpings of the curry and was pleased there was enough left over for another dinner. And, it was even better the second night. 

Six year old HG was living in an Athens, Georgia boarding house. HG had left The Bronx with his Mom–she was aiding in the nursing of HG’s older brother, Bernard, who had a below the knee leg amputation after an accident in a barnstorming plane (Medications were primitive then. Today, his leg would be saved and the recovery would be rapid). A Black woman with a warm and soothing personality was in charge of the kitchen at the boarding house. Each day she served hungry HG. a breakfast of ham and eggs, grits and red eye gravy, biscuits with butter and honey, orange juice and milky coffee. (Fabulous breakfast that is deposited in HG’s memory bank 88 years later). This was HG’s first taste of grits and HG was hooked. When on the road, HG always stops at Waffle House for grits and eggs (Waffle and syrup with plentiful coffee). Fortunately, BSK is an ace grits cook (adding cream cheese to the grits as they cook, a useful trick BSK learned from gifted daughter, Lesley R.) Last night, BSK served HG a very tasty bowl of shrimp and grits, a delight from the South.

This has been the rainiest Spring in Rhode Island weather history. More rain today but, happily, it eased up in late afternoon. Skies turned steel grey and the temperature, while still cool, was comfortable. HG/BSK dined with their gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Profesore Massimo R.,at their Riverside, RI, home. Seated on their breezy deck with its stirring water views, all toasted the Professor for his recent honors (Massimo heads the Italian Studies program at Brown University). Massimo has received the Brown Presidential Faculty Award and Lecture (he gets a $5,000 stipend for the lecture). Deserved recognition for his many academic contributions. As usual, dinner indoors was a delight–ricotta and anchovies was one appetizer; the other was prosciutto wrapped around bread sticks– both yummy and perfect with Spritzes. Main dish was creamy asparagus pasta. This was followed by a dessert of warm fruit crumble topped with vanilla ice cream. Oh, what a pleasure it is to live near family. Making Central Falls HG/BSK’s home was a smart choice.

Mapo Tofu is HG’s favorite Chinese dish and HG always orders it when in a Chinese restaurant. The best versions are in New York’s Chinese neighborhoods–Chinatown in Manhattan, Flushing in Queens, Sunset Park in Brooklyn. Fortunately, It’s easy to make at home (BSK has the necessary expertise). The ingredients: Ground pork, spicy bean paste, tofu (preferably silken); chili oil, chicken broth, cornstarch to thicken the sauce. This is usually poured over and mixed with egg noodles or rice noodles. BSK made it last night and used buckwheat soba noodles–a good choice. A fruity Malbec accompanied HG’s favorite dish. Tillamook French Vanilla Ice Cream for dessert. An ecstasy meal for the old guy.

HG loves pastry. French breakfast is a croissant (or brioche or buttered baguette ) with coffee. Italians like it sweet–pastry with their coffee or double espresso. HG favors the Italian breakfast version. Lesley (HG/BSK’s gifted and generous daughter) dropped off a box of Spanish pastries at HG/BSKs’ Central Falls, RI, loft. Had a splendid, sweet, good thing this morning and a lush custard filled pastry for dessert last night after a BSK-created dinner of flounder steamed over chopped spinach and broccoli di rabe. The dish was served with a pot of fluffy rice. That means a lunch of BSK congee tomorrow. Yumarooney pastries, comforting congee. Much bliss for HG.

There are many descriptives that can be used for old HG (95 in November, hopefully). One is “well fed”. That’s because HG’s nutrition and enjoyment of lush dinners has become one of BSK’s responsibilities. Happily, no matter how busy or tired BSK is, the wonderful woman daily prepares a tasty breakfast for HG (Smoothie, yogurt enhanced by maple syrup, coffee, sometimes a slice of celestial Babka) and a lush, creative dinner (Fish, shrimp, chicken,pork and tofu; omelets, vegetable pastas–and more, much more). Last night was a good example. BSK sauteed juicy shrimp in a honey and hot pepper glaze–a tongue tingling taste of heat and sweet. This was served with creamy grits and gently steamed baby spinach. Wow!! BSK is also an expert sommelier so there was a bottle of lovely Washington State merlot to drink. Lucky, lucky HG. 

At last, bright sunshine ended a long spell of grey (or rainy) Rhode Island weather. HG/BSK were off to Riverside,RI, home of gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her husband, Professor/author Massimo R. Their home has a spacious sun drenched deck facing Narragansett Bay. BSK assisted Lesley in flower planting. HG basked in a comfortable chair on the deck (Welcome after a long shut-in life in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft) read New York Review of Books and sipped Spritzes prepared by thoughtful Massimo. Wonderful way to spend a Spring afternoon. (Peckish HG ate a small bowl of cashews with the Spritzes). Massimo served tasty Lambrusco wine with dinner —Lesley’s lush pasta with vegetable sauce made creamy with feta and ricotta. Yums. After playing with Toby, The Wonder Dog and Pip, the gracious female dog, it was off to home for dessert, TV watching and peaceful sleep.

HG/BSK rarely eat any red meat (an occasional lamb chop is an exception).Yes, some pork–chops and ground. Fish, crustaceans, shellfish, vegetables in all varieties, canned Goya beans; fish/chicken/vegetable broth –these are the basic ingredients of BSK cuisine. BSK rarely uses butter but relies on extra virgin Italian and Sicilian olive oil. BSK’s favorite edible is chicken and HG  lovingly teases BSK about this lust. Happily, BSK makes wonderful chicken dishes that are relished by HG. BSK relies on a score of creations but here are three of HG’s favorites. Spatchcoked chicken–first marinated in an oil/ lemon/spice mix and then roasted to a crisp skinned juicy lushness. Chicken thighs glazed with oil and garlic and then drizzled with honey before going in the oven.  A sweet, spicy treat. Poached balls of ground chicken floating in Greek Avgolemono soup. A modest squirt of sriracha gives it a bit of the heat HG craves. Last night, BSK topped a sheet pan with chicken thighs, sliced potatoes, chopped peppers, and scallions.  Eggplant was added and all was topped with a mixture of yogurt, harissa, olive oil and spices. BSK served it with a yogurt sauce. Delicious food accompanied by pinot noir from Oregon. Cluck-cluck-cluck, indeed.