HUNGRY GERALD

HG is a very lucky old chap–married for 60 years (and still in love). Yes, wife BSK is wondrous–superlative caretaker, financial manager, artist, photographer, potter–talents and abilities galore. HG is 94 and this advanced age is due to BSK’s devoted care. And, BSK is a top flight home cook making every dinner a happy feast. Witness last night’s meal–broiled salmon, seasonal asparagus, sheet pan Prince Edward Island potato slices. Invariably, salmon (in restaurants and dinner parties is overcooked and tasteless. Raoul’s in Greenwich Village gets it right. And, so does BSK–lush medium rare salmon with tasty, silken flakes. (it gets a good covering of herbs and spices before going under the broiler). BSK follows the counsel of Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin–remove fish from heat while it’s still underdone–residual heat will continue the cooking giving the fish the correct texture and taste. BSK’s asparagus are steamed briefly, buttered and salted. The potatoes come from PEI and have a unique mineral taste. The peled spuds are cut into thin spheres (much like Sammy’s Roumanian), sprinkled with olive oil, salt and pepper and cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. Better than any French fries. Lucky, lucky HG.

So, Sammy’s Roumanian is reopening on the Lower East Side. Schmaltz, vodka, garlic tenderloin steaks, chopped liver.  HG and Jewish fressers rejoice. Cardiologists frown. HG wants the LES comebacks to continue–they are much missed by HG. The two culinary wonders that HG recalls wistfully are “Dairy”–Rappaport’s on Second Avenue in the former Yiddish theater neighborhood and the large Ratner’s on Delancey. In HG’s publicist days, HG ate often at Rappaport’s with journalists. (A particular favorite with the New York Post). Great blintzes, noodles with pot cheese; warmed (not toasted)  bialys. At Ratner’s, HG ate alone or with a variety of eccentric PR clients. Favorite dishes for HG were Nova smoked salmon and cream cheese on an onion roll (“pletzel”) and kasha varnishkes smothered in mushrooms and onions with sour cream on the side.  An odd client only ate mashed potatoes with fried onions–the skinny guy would eat three or four huge helpings. The portions were family style –meant to feed a table of four healthy eaters. Two cheese Danish for dessert. Never gained an ounce, Go figure.
                                                                                             

HG spotted a Melissa Clark (NY Times) recipe that seemed interesting for a wintry dinner—a soup/stew of cannellini beans, garbanzo beans, chicken stock, canned San Marzano tomatoes, and much garlic. HG tried to cook it but sous chef BSK took over midway. BSK served big bowls of the  mix and dusted them with parmesan and Spanish pimenton. Looked great. Alas. Because of throat problems caused by cancer surgery 32 years ago, the dish caused HG to choke and cough. Inedible. BSK eased HG’s hunger with Fearless Fish Market whipped cream cheese on lightly toasted potato bread.(Old guy ate every slice without distress). HG suggested that the tomato/bean dish be thrown out. BSK grew up with a “Waste Not” philosophy. BSK added chicken stock to the mix,and using the immersion blender created a silky, smooth, spicy soup. HG had three big hot bowls of the soup for lunch today without mishap. Warmed body and spirits. Thanks, wonderful, thrifty BSK.

Sammy’s Roumanian, where schmaltz (chicken fat) gilded everything from steaks to chopped liver and  eggplant salad, was HG’s favorite New York restaurant. There was an abundance of garlic enhancing the food and ice enclosed bottles of vodka on every table  (plus pitchers of schmaltz). Located on the Lower East Side,(Corner of Delancey and Christie), Pete Wells (NY Times) called it “the most wonderful terrible restaurant in New  York.”.  It was in your face Jewish. Loud,raucous, drunken. Jews danced between courses to Yiddish tunes from a piano player.   As Wells put it in a 2014 review: “Sammy’s is a permanent underground bar mitzvah where Gentîles can act like Jews and Jews can act like themselves.”  BSK went once and hated it. HG went often with SJ, the late beloved Adam Schlesinger, and male frênds and business colleagues.     Sammy’s closed three years ago. HG was tearful as a part of HG ‘s New York disappeared. HG is 94.  What’s left of the city’s old time culinary Jewishness? Some dairy restaurants, an eatery in the jewelry district –and stalwarts Katz’s, Zabar’s, Barney Greengrass, Russ &  Daughters, Murray’s. And, at 94, HG can’t last forever…But wait!!!  It was recently reported that Sammy’s will live again! Sammy’s owners have leased space on Stanton Street in the Lower East Side and promise an unchanged schmaltz heaven, frozen vodka fresser paradise. It will open soon. HG hopes to,be alive to eat, drink and exaggerate his inherent Jewishness.                                                                                      

Sun poured into Lesley R.’s Riverside, RI, home (her husband, Massimo, is in Paris lecturing and attending to scholarly duties–returns to Rhody tomorrow night). So, HG/BSK were gifted daughter’s early dinner guests. While food was prepared HG drank a sweet and dry vermouth/ grapefruit bitters cocktail while watching the sun send shafts of light over the expansive water views. HG sipped a glass of white wine while enjoying the appetizer of deviled eggs topped with Tobiko and Trout Roe. Fabulous bow to Easter. HG sipped red wine with Lesley’s extraordinary asparagus and leek risotto. Lesley purees the cooked asparagus stems and leek leaves before adding these ingredients to the rice (Asparagus tips adorn the top of the risotto). Nice touch. HG finished a last glass of red wine with a dessert of handmade pieces of dark chocolate enclosing creamy peanut butter. Another delightful meal Chez Lesley R.