HUNGRY GERALD

HG’s love for herring is inherited from HG’s late father, Harry Freeman. After all, HG’s beloved Dad’s first meal in the United States was schmaltz herring, half an onion, pumpernickel bread and a glass of beer. Before being anglicized, “Harry” was Hershele Zvi Freimann. Throughout his life, upon coming home from work Father poured “ah brumfen” (shot of rye whiskey) and ate a hunk of herring on pumpernickel.  As he got older, HG joined him in this pleasant ritual. When Father and son dined alone, Father made a big bowl of lettuce, tomatoes, onions and herring. Both drank beer. After decades and decades of herring fressing, HG’s favorite is raw herring from Holland. It is a seasonal treat and HG first tasted it in Amsterdam. The herring is sold by street vendors, The gutted herring is dipped in chopped onions, eaten whole and, of course, with a bottle of beer in hand. Incomparable. Fortunately, New York’s Russ and Daughters imports the herrings and thoughtful SJ always dispatched some to HG. HG is fond of herring in every guise–pickled, fried, smoked.–and in every type of sauce. HG’s present day favorite is Russ & Daughters schmaltz herring, HG’s favorite meal: Schmaltz herring, chopped onion, sour pickle, pumpernickel bread, icy Polish vodka and chilled beer chasers. When dining thus HG drinks much, much vodka. Seems like a nutritious meal, but oddly, BSK doesn’t approve.

When HG was in college (CCNY graduate 1950) and in the immediate years thereafter, HG ate in cheap, tasty ethnic restaurants. HG knew all of the ethnic neighborhoods. Rough hewn French food favored by the crews of French liners was found near the docks in the West 40’s. Eel stew, Pig’s feet. Offal. There was very cheap Spanish food on West 14th Street. German food in Yorkville. Hungarian food (splendid duck) on First and Second Avenues in the 90’s. Ukrainian pierogi and other filling dishes on First and Second Avenues on the Lower East Side. Fried catfish, ribs and soul food classics in Harlem. Italian food on Mulberry Street in Little Italy. There was only one Mexican restaurant in Manhattan and it was terrible. Good, inexpensive Greek restaurants in the West 40’s and West 30’s. The great multitude of Irish “Bar and Grills” throughout Manhattan served corned beef and cabbage of varying quality plus hard boiled eggs and pickled pig’s knuckles. There were two Japanese restaurants–one near Columbia and the other in the East 30’s. Chinese food was centered in Chinatown. An encyclopedic array of flavors and texture–Plus shockingly cheap. New York was quite Jewish in the 40’s and 50’s. Hundreds of Jewish bakeries, delicatessens (pastrami and corned beef heaven); “appetizing stores”; “dairy” restaurants. And, more. Much, much more. There was an exodus to the suburbs. The city, the food and restaurants all changed. New York now has an astounding number of ethnic eateries. Every continent with its tumultuous cities and groundbreaking cuisine is represented. Raise your forks (or chopsticks) !!

Before throat cancer surgery 31 years ago limited HG’s chewing and swallowing, HG relished New York’s best-in-world red meat. HG will indulge in the pleasure of  culinary nostalgia and list the best of the best: STEAK–Christ Cella produced masterpieces. Al Cooper’s in the Garment Center was the runner up. FILET MIGNON–Ben Benson’s was the champ. LAMB CHOPS–The chops at Coach House in Greenwich Village scaled new heights in flavor and juices when cooked medium rare. And, thankfully, they were thick. Surprise. Theater district Sardi’s had very good lamb chops and accompanied them with kidneys. STEAK TARTARE–At lunch, HG often liked this raw meat dish and its flavorful embellishments. Best was found at The Blue Ribbon, a German restaurant a few blocks from The New  York Times. When in Paris, HG ate steak tartare at Chez Georges and Le Stella. MUTTON CHOP–Keen’s, of course. Huge in size and deliciousness. The mutton chop (and corn fritters) at Gage & Tollner in Brooklyn was more modest in size but full of flavor. HAMBURGER–Cooked with a pink interior, these were equally good at P.J. Clarke’s and J.G. Melon. 

Marlon Brando said the late Paul Muni (1895-1967) was the best actor in the world. Looking back, HG agrees. These days, the only actor who is comparable to Muni is Daniel Day Lewis. HG doesn’t know if Muni is remembered. He was an authentic movie star and equally brilliant on the Broadway stage. When HG was growing up in The Bronx, Muni was a hero of HG’s family. Born in Ukraine, Muni was Jewish and his first language was Yiddish. He got his start on the Yiddish stage (where he was a star). He was very talented at makeup. When he was 12 years old, his makeup skills allowed him to play a convincing 82 year old man. Muni could play anything. His crime boss (loosely based on Al Capone) in the 30’s movie, “Scarface”, launched the genre of Hollywood “gangster” movies. A contemporary remake starred Al Pacino.  “Goodfellas” and the Godfather trilogy owe much to Muni’s original “Scarface”.  Muni’s makeup skills allowed him to make “The Life of Louis Pasteur” and “The Life of Emile  Zola ” —both convincing biographical movies. Muni was riveting on stage. ‘Inherit the Wind”, based on the Scopes trial, starred Muni as Clarence Darrow and Frederick March as William Jennings Bryan.  Fabulous!!