HUNGRY GERALD

HG’S beloved daughter, Victoria Freeman, the renowned New York restaurateur (Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s), spent three happy days with HG/BSK at their Prince Edward Island home. As usual, much travail for Vicki in getting to this blessed green isle (canceled flights, etc.). The weather? Some rain but plenty of sun ideal for BSK/Vicki beach walks. Feasting: Shucked oysters (Brackley Beach and Colville Bay); Sevruga caviar (a gift from generous Vicki); cod, tofu, spinach, soba noodles in scallion broth; fresh caught seared tuna salad with a plethora of greens, zucchini ribbons, avocado (a Vicki request). Culmination was a huge meal at Clamdiggers Restaurant in Cardigan. Crabcakes. Crisp onion rings. Steamed soft shell clams. Giant platters of seafood (fried clams, haddock, scallops) and French fries, of course. There was a problem. We had to wait for 90 minutes before the food arrived. Busy night and HG presumes the kitchen was understaffed. The wait didn’t blunt HG’s appetite. Usually moderate, HG was a “Clean Plate Ranger”. HG had a credit card in hand but stealthy Vicki had paid in advance. A super generous woman. This was in addition to the gifted caviar and two loaves of hard to find Pepperidge Farm Thin White Bread (perfect as a base for caviar when lightly toasted and buttered and also a worthy companion to softly scrambled eggs). BSK has been searching for more convenient ways for Vicki (and her husband, Marc Meyer, the pioneering farm-to-table chef) to travel to PEI. And, HG has promised to stay alive for more Vicki (and Marc) visits.

The great Jewish writer (an emigre to the USA and Manhattan’s Upper West Side), Isaac Baashevis Singer (1902-1991), wrote in Yiddish exclusively. He said: “Yiddish contains vitamins that other languages don’t have.” His work–short stories, serialized novels, novellas–appeared in the Yiddish language Jewish Daily Forward (“Forvertz”) newspaper. “I have never stopped writing for The Forward. It is my laboratory.” Singer was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1978 “for his impassioned narrative art which, with roots in a Polish-Jewish cultural tradition, brings universal human conditions to life.” His acceptance speech before the Nobel audience was in Yiddish. This was the first (and probably last) Yiddish speech before that body. Singer was skeptical of institutional religion and dogma but considered himself a religious man. “When I’m in trouble, I pray. Since I’m always in trouble, I pray a lot.” For the last 35 years of his life, Singer was a vegetarian. He felt there could be no peace on earth if humans slaughtered and ate innocent animals. “I am not a vegetarian for my health, it is for the health of the chickens.”

Ever alert for a merchandising opportunity, American industry has honored everything–human, animal,fruit, vegetable, etc., etc.–with a “Day.” There are the important “Days”–Mother’s Day,Father’s Day, Valentine’s Day–and scores of lesser “Days.” ( Christmas, of course, is the ultimate merchandising bonanza, its religious significance diminished). HG has often expressed contempt for “Days.” Nevertheless. HG always gifts BSK on Mother’s and Valentine’s Days. And, HG was grateful to be warmly remembered by son, Jeremy, and daughter, Lesley, on this Father’s Day. Obviously, HG is not consistent in HG’s “Days”criticism. It is HG’s intention to give Toby, The Wonder Dog, a special treat (plus extra belly rubs) on National Dog Day.

Yiddish is a language that is always on the verge of death but manages to stay alive. Now that it is being taught in some American colleges, it may have increased longevity. In the New York of the 20th Century, there were four competitive Yiddish daily newspapers: The Forward (Furvertz); Jewish Morning Journal; Der. Tag; Freiheit. Most important was The Forward, resolutely Socialist (its radio station, WEVD, had call letters derived from the Socialist leader Eugene Victor Debs). It was the favorite newspaper of HG’s father, a Socialist, early labor union member (joined the Jewish Bund when still a youngster in Belorussia). Founded in 1897, The Forward had a circulation of 275,000 in the 1920’s (diminished to 170,000 in 1939 as immigrant Jews learned English). The Morning Journal was politically conservative and an advocate of Orthodox Judaism (it had a peak circulation of 80,000). Der Tag was directed at intellectual Jews and had a modest circulation. Freiheit was the Yiddish newspaper of the American Communist Party. It promoted the interests of the International Fur and Leather Workers Union headed by fiery Ben Gold. The union had a bloody history battling gangsters and New York police. Gold often landed in jail. Abraham Cahan was the editor of anti-Communist Forward. He was the target of much Ben Gold vitriol. After relentless US government harassment, Gold retired at age 56 to –where else?–Miami Beach. Lived a long life, wrote novels and short stories. Looked like the average Miami Beach “alteh cocker.”

Sad, sad day, HG/BSK just learned beloved New Mexico friend and neighbor, David Fowler, has died. He was 87. Born in Connecticut, David was educated at Colby College in Maine and Wesleyan University. in Connecticut. David was many things. Ex-Marine. Football linebacker (at Colby). Poet. Historian. Educator. Novelist. From 1971-1985 he was Headmaster (Head of School) at Proctor Academy, Andover, NH., an institution where he introduced many academic innovations. He moved to New Mexico after retirement with his sparkling wife, Polly Brown, a brilliant photographer who called herself “a social documentarian”. Polly predeceased David in 2016 (See HG archive October 26, 2016 for HG’s tribute to Polly). HG/ BSK had many joyous meals with David and Polly at HG/BSK’s home and at D. and P.’s splendid adobe with majestic views of the Jemez Mountains. David was a bon vivant who enjoyed drinking vodka with HG. Watching the Super Bowl on David’s giant TV while eating barbecue and drinking cold Gahan’s Ale was as close to heaven as HG will ever get. Yes, losing David is a blow. Will miss him immensely.

One good thing is Mortadella, the large Italian sausage. It originated in the city of Bologna and the best still comes from there. Mortadella is made from finely ground pork and the addition of cubes of pork fat. The pork fat gives Mortadella a marbled appearance. Sliced pistachios are also in the mix so a slice of Mortadella is a pleasing still life. Baloney (or “bologna”, the inexpensive lunch meat that is in supermarkets throughout the United States and Canada is a staple foodstuff for low income families. Fried bologna has some fans among epicures, however. There’s a little eatery in Montreal that is famous for fried bologna sandwiches and there’s usually a line up of folks who relish them. Mortadella has become fashionable in a number of American cities. It’s being used in a number of cooked dishes and (accompanied by various condiments) is a favored appetizer. An Italian grocery in Providence, RI, imports true Mortadella from Bologna. Generous daughter Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo, gifted HG/BSK with a pound to make their trip to Prince Edward Island savory (ate the last delicious slice yesterday accompanied by PEII mustard pickles). The second good thing is Bagaco, an after dinner spirit distilled by Matos Winery and Distillery on PEI. Matos calls it a “Distilled Grape Pomace.” Basically, it’s a Marc, made from the skins and seeds of wine grapes. The Marc HG has drunk in France (and Grappa in Italy) has a powerful alcoholic punch. Bagaco has strength but it has subtlety and levels of flavor. HG is sipping some while writing this post. Yum.

The French dining authority, Curnonsky, said two important things about cuisine: “Things should taste of what they are.” and “Keep it simple.” BSK follows his example while adding an emphasis on locavore ingredients. Tonight, BSK cooked a classic Prince Edward Island dinner. The meal was prefaced by six PEI oysters (for HG). Then there was fresh Atlantic fried haddock; local potatoes moistened with olive oil and dusted with sea salt (PEI potatoes are grown in red tinged soil and have a mineral tang that makes them special); plump steamed seasonal asparagus topped with butter and lemon juice. BSK has a patch of rhubarb near BSK’s studio. Earlier in the day, BSK cooked some rhubarb and then mixed it with local strawberry jam. The resultant compote was extraordinary—sweet with a tart underpinning. HG topped vanilla ice cream with the compote and enjoyed a fabulous dessert. Yes, living is good on this democratic peaceful island. And, guns are not worshiped.

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June 3 was BSK’s birthday. Age is 81. Looks 35/40 years younger. Still slender, shapely, flexible with energy, creativity, strength, skills of all kinds undiminished by age. Some forty years ago, BSK was diagnosed with an allergy to crustaceans. In other words, if a sea critter had claws—lobster, shrimp,crab —BSK couldn’t eat it. Earlier this year, an examination revealed that the crustacean allergy had disappeared. So, BSK began enjoying shrimp again, But, it was only last night that BSK rediscovered lobster. Birthday dinner at Ocean Mist Farm, the verdant Prince Edward Island home of Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother in law). Yossi carefully steamed large lobsters. Noel made a tasty, herbaceous potato salad Despite the passing decades, BSK hadn’t forgotten her lobster cracking expertise. First taste of lobster. “Wow, so sweet, tender and delicious,” said BSK. Guess there will be much lobster in BSK’s future (including sumptuous lobster rolls at The Lobster Shack in the Town of Souris). Meal concluded with vanilla ice cream smothered in Noel’s rhubarb/strawberry compote. The meal ingredients were locavore. Potatoes, rhubarb, strawberries, and herbs were from Ocean Mist Farm. Lobsters came from the sea a few miles away. Ice cream from a PEI dairy. Yes, PEI provides a foodie feast.

Joy. HG/BSK have arrived on Prince Edward Island. Oceanfront home is clean and orderly. Alas, no propane gas and no internet. All remedied overnight. So, seafood feasting can begin. BSK was off to the local seafood market at nearby St. Peter’s landing and bought cod (infinitely better than USA or Norwegian cod); mussels (PEI mussels are best in North America); Red Head oysters (yum!). BSK made a lusty chowder with clam juice, hondashi flakes, chopped Italian parsley, chopped onion and garlic, and red pepper flakes. Mussels were big and plump. Cod was cooked to a perfect succulent point. Oh, my!! Good news was the fact that the dish was a “double header.” Explanation: Enough leftovers for a second dinner. The leftovers will be served over linguine tonight. Double dose of culinary pleasure.

HG/BSK had a jolly meal tonight in a St, John, New Brunswick, motel room (will be at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island summer paradise tomorrow). Tonight the feast was old-fashioned tomato and meat sauce lasagna plus much red wine.Gifted daughter Lesley R. bought the lasagna at a very good Italian grocery-delicatessen-restaurant in Providence. (Also purchased prosciutto, white anchovies, etc. for her hungry parents’ motor voyage. Lucky HG/BSK). As HG enjoyed the lasagna, HG speculated on food fashions. Lasagna, “Sunday gravy”, and other traditional southern Italian dishes are making a comeback (Northern Italian cuisine took over from “red sauce” some years ago). Yes, food fashions come and go. Kale was the fashionable vegetable for a few years and has been overtaken by cauliflower (Many fast food highway restaurants are serving fried cauliflower nuggets as a French fry alternative. Salt caramel is now a very popular ice cream flavor. Some fast food places now offer salt caramel smoothies. HG’s favorite ice cream flavor is Maple Walnut. Butter Pecan remains but Maple Walnut has disappeared. A pity.