HUNGRY GERALD

For many years, young HG ate and enjoyed garlicky, chunky Brandade (potato, salt cod, garlic puree) at inexpensive French restaurants on Manhattan’s midtown west side. When HG/BSK acquired their first Cuisinart, BSK made a smoother version. The dish has disappeared from most restaurant menus since a top flight version is labor intensive. Balthazar, the popular New York brasserie, still serves it and HG often eats it after some oysters. Good, but not outstanding. The ultimate Brandade, a dish that transports HG to the heavenly realms of culinary delight, is made by the great chef Marc Meyer. Lucky, lucky HG. Knowing HG’s pleasure in his masterpiece. Marc made a big batch as a dinner finale before he and his wife, HG daughter, Vicki, left Prince Edward Island for New York the next morning. Marc used fresh cod, not salt cod,for this dish. PEI potatoes and garlic from Ocean Mist Farm. Extra virgin olive oil and local milk. Whatever else went in the Brandade is Marc’s secret. Marc whipped the ingredients into a smooth mix before the dish went into the oven with a shower of bread crumbs. The result was a dish that seemed to encompass the best flavors of land and sea while being smooth (but with texture). Proportions of garlic, cod, etc. were perfectly balanced. The browned bread crumbs added some color and a bit of crunch. HG had many helpings (oh, joy,there are some leftovers.) Other elements of this bravura farewell meal were shucked Colville Bay oysters, lobster salad, Blum’s sweet corn on the cob. Lesley R. and BSK collaborated on a delicious dish of haddock filets baked on a bed of chopped tomatoes, onions, garlic and fennel. A meal that will live in HG’s memory.

Many years ago, HG’s son in law, the brilliant Massimo R., introduced HG to a pasta favorite, spaghetti alla norma. Massimo was acting as tour guide on a family visit to Sicily. He ordered the dish for HG while lunching at an outdoor restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking Greek temple ruins. HG was entranced by the food and the view. Last night, the star chef Marc Meyer (visiting HG/BSK with his wife, HG daughter Vicki) made his version of the Sicilian dish–penne alla norma. Using fresh eggplants from the Prince Edward Island Farmers Market and local cherry tomatoes (some grown by BSK) Marc hit the Sicilian taste target. Voluptuous. Powerfully flavorful. The injunction against Marc cooking isn’t being obeyed and the family taste buds are being rewarded. The dinner started with Lesley R.’s refreshing salad of tiny pink Newfoundland shrimp. It ended with a cheese platter (the chevre was outstanding) plus Spanish quince jam as a condiment. Gourmands rule on PEI.

A rule was made. And, then broken. It was decided that chef, Marc Meyer, visiting Prince Edward Island with his wife, HG’s daughter, Vicki, would do no cooking. With staff shortages at Marc/Vicki’s five New York restaurants, Marc has been super busy filling in as line cook and doing other culinary tasks. However, possibly at Vicki’s urging, Marc cooked a momentous dinner tonight. It started with sea scallop sashimi. Marc trimmed the scallops of their fibrous edges, sliced them paper thin. Fanned out on a plate, they got a squeeze of lemon juice, a discreet shake of piquant spice, a few slices of fiery jalapenos. A sublime way to start a summer meal. Then, onto the main dish. Marc boiled little potatoes. Sliced red onions, radishes, fennel, cucumbers, etc. Added lettuce leaves. Tossed in a pungent dressing. It all went on BSK’s largest platter. The salad mix was topped with baked fresh tuna and, as a final touch, perfect hard boiled eggs. The dinner table was presented with a huge tower of great food. Not to worry. Modest amount of leftovers. Many thanks, Marc.

HG’s daughter, Vicki and husband, Marc, the two stars of New York restaurants (Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s) have arrived on Prince Edward Island. The generous duo brought a carton of excellent white wine and some superior tequila. Adding to the delight of their company, August sweet corn has arrived. Blum’s sells this wonder out of its truck. A pat of butter and some sea salt. Wow! Garrison Kellor said it all: “People have tried and tried. But, sex is not better than sweet corn.” It is tempting to have Marc, a trailblazing great chef, cook all of our meals. We will resist. He needs a rest from cooking.

Beautiful granddaughter Sofia has arrived on Prince Edward Island after a marathon drive from Santa Fe and Providence. Her exuberant personality is very welcome. And, accompanying Sofia, was Toby, The Wonder Dog. HG/BSK haven’t seen their ingratiating furry companion and guardian for more than a year. He has been much missed. HG/BSK have been concerned. Would Toby remember them after more than a year of loving care from Sofia and frolics with Mintern, granddaughter Arianna’s cat?? Not to worry. His memory is acute. This morning, Toby greeted HG by rolling over to receive his customary belly rubs. Happy way to start the day.

Paris has the reputation of being rude to foreigners. The reverse has been true for HG/BSK during the 55 years they have visited the glorious city. In clothing and shoe shops; drugstores, bakeries, groceries, wine stores., etc., HG/BSK have always been treated with courtesy and smiling service. Best of all have been bistros, restaurants and brasseries. Many decades ago, famished HG/BSK arrived during a crowded lunch hour at Chez Georges on Rue du Mail. No reservation. Chez Georges was well regarded then but it has gone on to great fame (and escalating prices). The then owner shook hands with HG and said: “Very short wait. Have a glass of Fleurie and enjoy.” And, HG /BSK did enjoy a meal of traditional French bistro classics and had numerous happy meals at Chez Georges over the years. On a first visit to Paris, the gracious maitre d’ of a restaurant on Boulevard St. Germain (before luxury merchants and high rents chased restaurants away) saw that HG/BSK needed menu assistance and composed a perfect meal for them: Fresh white asparagus with sauce mousseline followed by tender slices of leg of lamb and crisp French fries. Then, camembert and a small green salad. Dessert was wild raspberries with lightly whipped cream. Wine was Beaujolais. Paris perfection. On another foray on the left bank, HG/BSK had couscous at a small place owned and run by a rambunctious, lively woman. HG received a warm hug from the lady and HG/BSK had a generous meal of couscous and chicken stewed with preserved lemons. When the couscous began disappearing it was immediately replenished and given a pour of vegetable laden broth and a big spoonful of fiery harissa. This couscous experience was replicated a few years ago at the equally friendly Jour et Nuit restaurant in an Arab quarter of Montmartre. For many years, HG/BSK’s favorite dining place was Brasserie Le Stella in the tony 16th. Oysters, bulots, racks of lamb were superb and served with grace and sly humor. But, the best thing about Stella was Maitre d’ Christian. Grace and elegance personified, Christian was always ready to greet HG/BSK with double cheek kisses and complimentary flutes of champagne. More than a professional, Christian became a friend. Ah, Paree!! (Look at the illustration. Christian is at the rear of the photo with his arm around the chef).

BSK’s sister and brother in law, Noel and Yossi R., hosted a lively and tasty dinner at their blooming Ocean Mist Farm on the southeast shore of Prince Edward Island. First, there was an appetizer of hummus (Israeli flavor) and Noel’s home baked, zaatar covered pita (far superior to the supermarket version). Noel drank tea but Lesley and Massimo R.; Yossi, HG/BSK, enjoyed icy white wine. Lesley acted as sous chef by cooking linguine to Massimo’s demanding Italian standard. The pasta was covered by Noel’s clam sauce made with fresh local bivalves. HG relished a generous bowl sprinkled with red pepper flakes. Briny deliciousness. More white wine and a green salad. Then, a dessert of vanilla ice cream with Ocean Mist raspberries. Oh, my!! HG sipped after dinner red wine and contemplated HG’s good fortune at being alive on PEI.

Fishers snare many splendid tuna in the waters surrounding Prince Edward Island. Unfortunately, the fish are almost never found on PEI dining tables. They are purchased by Japanese buyers and flown immediately to the Tokyo fish market. So, if you are eating first class tuna sashimi or sushi in Tokyo, you are likely eating a PEI product. However, there was happy news yesterday. Julio’s Fish Market in St. Peters called and said they had scored some fresh tuna. BSK picked up some pounds and there was a joyous dinner. HG was a purist. HG’s feast was lightly seared, rare tuna which HG dipped in soy sauce and dotted with wasabi. This was accompanied by room temperature rice vermicelli flavored with sesame oil and soy sauce. The drink was cold white wine. Heaven.

HG has never been enthusiastic about most cooked oyster dishes. Yes, there are exceptions: Fabulous oyster pan roast at New York’s Grand Central Oyster Bar (Is it still operating?); fried oyster po’ boys in New Orleans. Don’t like Oysters Rockefeller and think San Francisco’s Hangtown Fry is overrated. HG’s preference is for chilled, freshly shucked Prince Edward Island oysters: Malpeque Choice, Red Head, Savage Harbor, Rollo Bay. Nothing added. Just briny heaven at 75 cents (US) each. But, last night, Gifted Daughter Lesley R. made a startling dish of stove top hot oysters. HG is a convert and can eat this dish every night. Lesley used HG/BSK’s cast iron oyster pan (It has 12 indentations to house a dozen oysters). Son in law Massimo R. shucked deftly 13 Red Heads (One raw specimen was saved for HG as a special treat and the remaining dozen went into the pan). Lesley made a miso butter mix (White miso, lime juice, butter, sriracha). These topped the oysters, The mix melted as the oysters cooked into succulence. Oysters were removed with tongs. “Fabulous” is an understatement. Baguette soaked up the savory juices in the pan. Wow!!

Artist & Writers, a bar/restaurant on W.40th street in Manhattan was a frequent hangout for young HG when HG was a journalist and then a public relations professional. It was in the same building as the Herald-Tribune newspaper (both H-T and A & W, sadly, have vanished along with many other culinary and journalistic landmarks that adorned a more gracious and colorful New York). HG wondered about the name of the eatery. Why was “Artist” singular and “Writers” plural? In any case, Artist & Writers was the canteen for “Trib” (that’s what everyone called the newspaper) journalists and others from the Times, Business Week, Newsweek–all with offices in the neighborhood. All referred to it as “Bleeck’s”, after the owner, John Bleeck. HG drank many a Martini and sipped much cognac there but HG also was fond of the food. It was German and hearty. HG’s favorite dish was Konigsberger Klopse. This was composed of meatballs ( pork and beef) mixed with fried onions, bread crumbs, beaten eggs, and loads of spices. Golf ball sized, they were poached in sturdy stock and finished in a cream and capers sauce. It was topped with a big shower of chopped dill. Served with boiled potatoes and pint glasses of dark German beer. Good stuff. It was recalled last night when BSK took handfuls of dill from the BSK herb garden and cooked the herb with garlic scapes, anchovies, butter, chopped onions, olive oil, lemon juice and capers. Poured over lovely salmon filets (cooked medium rare the way HG likes them) , this was lush eating. Brought back memories of Bleeck’s and “the match game” that was played at the bar. HG was a skilled player. Alas, the old guy has forgotten the rules.