HUNGRY GERALD

For many years, HG was an avid Martini drinker—after work at the cocktail hour or upon arrival home before dinner. HG had affectionate names for this potent (slightly lethal) beverage–“white lightning” or “icy steely.” Cocktail venue was Michael’s, a bar in Manhattan’s East 50’s. Customers were advertising industry men and women from the “Mad Men” era. Hard drinking folks. An extra dry Michael’s Martini was served in a dangerously huge goblet. The very strong drink led to many mishaps and misdemeanors. (Dorothy Parker put it this way: “One Martini. Two at most. Three Martinis. I’m under the host.”) At home HG followed a ritual. Pitcher and glasses in the freezer. Vodka or gin in the fridge. Pitcher was filled with ice. Alcohol poured with a slight trace of Noilly Prat dry vermouth. Quick robust stir. Then: Ice cold heaven. (No olives, tiny pickled onions or lemon peel. When offered at a bar, HG commented: “I didn’t order a salad.”))  BSK vigorously objected to HG’s Martini habit. BSK stressed the unpleasantness and dangers of falls and glassy eyed, thick tongued inebriation (Drunk? Hate that word.) So, sometime ago HG switched to Italian Negronis. HG’s Negroni is free form. Mix is a modest amount of bourbon or rye. Dry vermouth. Sweet vermouth. Campari. Lime or lemon juice. Served on the rocks. (The very best Negroni was served at a classy restaurant in Vancouver, B.C.’s W.Broadway.) Now, HG only has a Martini when the brilliant, effervescent Claudia Cragg is having one. A gentleman doesn’t let a lady drink a Martini alone

Yes, there’s joy in the HG/BSK Prince Edward Island home. That’s because Julio’s Seafood Market has opened in nearby St. Peters Landing. This replaces the sadly missed By The Bay Fish Mart which closed two years ago. Now a quick seven minute drive takes HG/BSK to Julio’s where pescatorian delights await. HG/BSK have dined on salmon, cod, haddock, hake, mussels,oysters, steamed soft shell clams. All have been sublime. The salmon, farm raised in Nova Scotia, was remarkable, as flavorful as wild caught. Julio’s has a lobster tank (you can buy lobsters live or cooked) and carries a full line of Maritime Madness sauces (locally made). There are also PEI potatoes, spices, local breading for fish fry, local frozen fish cakes and frozen lobster meat. For convenience, Julio’s also stocks milk, butter and eggs. And, typical of PEI, Julio Sanchez and his colleague are warm and friendly gents.

In 1955 HG began his long career as a public relations consultant and publicist. His office was eccentric (former dance studio) at 236 W. 56th Street (midway between Broadway and 8th Avenue). Over the years the offices became less singular and there were moves to Madison Avenue and, finally,New Jersey: Freeman Public Relations has longevity. Now in its 66th year, it flourishes under the brilliant leadership of its owner, Bruce Maguire. Street level of 236 W. 56th Street was occupied by Patsy’s Italian Restaurant. Founded in 1944 by Pasquale “Patsy” Scognamillo, it had quiet decor, professional service and very good food. Knowing that young HG was facing financial challenges, the generous Scognamillo family often offered HG a bowl of Spaghetti Bolognese at a fraction of the menu price. The waiter refused a tip. HG prospered and Patsy’s became HG’s favorite Italian eatery (it was also Frank Sinatra’s fave). The Scognamillo family still owns and runs Patsy’s with Neapolitan skill and exuberance. It has become a showbiz and celebrity hangout. Among the frequent customers are Al Pacino, Robert De Niro, Madonna, George Clooney, Oprah Winfrey, Alec Baldwin, Tony Bennet, Pacido Domingo and many others. (autograph requests are discouraged). In the old days, the only celebrity present (except for Sinatra) was the notorious Frank Costello. The food remains splendid. Rightfully so, since prices have become stratospheric. A bowl of tripe costs $35 (HG will stick to big bowls of fiery green chili tripe–five bucks– at El Parasol in New Mexico). Patsy’s spaghetti and meatballs, a proletarian dish, costs $29. Time–and prices–march on.

When HG was a New York journalist (1950-1955), a favorite restaurant of HG and HG’s newspaper and wire service pals was Patsy’s. It was located in an edgy neighborhood of Spanish Harlem, 2287 First Avenue (west side of the Avenue between 117th and 118th Streets). Many junkies and drug pushers in the neighboring streets. Since junkies needed money for their next fix, muggings were frequent. The restaurant was a neighborhood fixture and its pizzas (made in an ancient coal fired oven) were remarkable. It was very affordable. HG’s meal of crudo di vongole (clams on the half shell) and linguine aglio e olio (olive oil, garlic, parsley and a sprinkle of red pepper) cost less than two dollars. Sometime in the early 80’s HG took a group of friends there after a Gerard Schwartz concert at the 92nd Street Y. Restaurant was a bit run down and the neighborhood made much of the group nervous. Gerry Schwartz enjoyed the odd place and all agreed the food was terrific. At some juncture in the 1980s, Woody Allen stopped by Patsy’s with associates and raved about the food. Voila!! Patsy’ became a hangout for cool New Yorkers. (Rao’s, the super exclusive red sauce restaurant, is close to Patsy’s at 114th Street and Pleasant Avenue). Patsy’s is still in business. Prices are modest (by Manhattan standards). The clams are now $8.50 and the linguine is $9.95. The neighborhood is much improved if not totally gentrified.

Mothers (BSK, Lesley R., Exquisite Maiko) and Stepmother Victoria F. are–deservedly–much loved by their children (and grandchildren). All were honored on Mother’s Day. How about Dads? Well, Father’s Day is upcoming. HG once derided it as commercial exploitation. But, ”as the days dwindle down to a precious few”, HG will accept any plaudits that come HG’s way. Realistic appraisal of HG as Father: Mediocre. Realistic appraisal of SJ as a Father: Superb. His kids, Haru and Teru, are fortunate as is wife, Maiko. Most fortunate is HG because SJ continually amuses, entertains, stimulates with numerous talents. Photographer: Sad Chairs, Hairy Houses and more. Music: Reggae gems. Writing: Oishi Gevalt, the SJ blog, contains some of the best writing about food and the Tokyo atmosphere that HG has ever encountered. Big source of sadness: SJ and family live in Tokyo and you can’t get there by taking the A train and changing at 125th Street. Also–no dining on pastrami, ribs, tasso ham gumbo and other treats at SJ/Maiko’s Freeman Shokudo, their busy izakaya. Saving grace: Facetime. Hope: If Covid 19 allows and health holds out, HG/BSK will try to voyage to Japan.

Happiness!! BSK has made a big pot of “green soup aka empty the fridge soup.” BSK pulled out of the fridge a number of veggies (some a bit over the hill). Leeks, broccoli, spinach, bok choy,tomatoes, lettuce, fennel. Chopped onions, garlic and a handful of cilantro. All were cooked in olive oil until quite softened. Flavored with a host of spices–cardamom, nutmeg, Aleppo pepper (plus sea salt, of course). The mix was long simmered in chicken broth. BSK used an immersion blender to create a silky, smooth, intense soup. A baguette. Butter. A tomato salad. Red wine. The perfect meal for a chilly night. Sometimes the steaming bowls get a garnish of Greek yogurt dusted lightly with cayenne. SJ and wife, Maiko, have “Green Soup” on the menu of their Freeman Shokudo izakaya in Tokyo. Their customers love it (as well as Freeman Shokudo’s dazzling tasso ham gumbo).