Esca, on New York’s west side, has long been one of the city’s best seafood restaurants. HG/BSK (accompanied by HG’s daughter, restaurateur Victoria), had a delicious lunch there some years ago. Ate crudo (slices of very fresh raw fish with appropriate oils and condiments) that was better than any Japanese sashimi HG ever encountered. This was followed by a perfect fried flounder. Wines and desserts were splendid. HG/BSK recalled this meal a few nights ago. The head chef and proprietor (with partners) of Esca is David Pasternack. BSK went to Pasternack’s cookbook: “The Young Man & The Sea.” BSK was beguiled by his recipe for “Cod With Polenta and Wild Mushrooms.” With fresh cod in hand, BSK made some changes in the recipe. Made creamy white grits rather than polenta. Browned cod in pan rather than the oven. No wild mushrooms, but some buttery cremini mushrooms with garlic, shallots and lemon zest. Upon serving, BSK added a modest splash of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Another BSK triumph.
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