Many decades ago, HG/BSK were strolling near the Place Des Victoires in Paris when they examined the menu posted adjacent to the entrance of Chez Georges, a traditional French bistro. Prices were affordable. Dishes offered were classic. HG/BSK entered and found a multi-mirrored long room. Every seat was filled with a chic, happy Parisians. No tourists. The gracious owner welcomed HG/BSK: “A table will soon be vacant. Meanwhile, have a glass of Brouilly.” The meal and the ambiance were fabulous. HG’s main dish was “Steak de Canard”. This was a succulent duck breast cooked medium rare (on the rare side) and served with a saute of wild mushrooms. Last night, BSK combined two traditions: The Chez Georges duck breast and the salad HG/BSK would eat for Sunday dinner with a barbecued duck from the long-closed Bretton Woods Rotisserie near 86th Street and Broadway on New York’s Upper West Side (this was when HG/BSK and children lived in a West Side rent-controlled paradise). Last night in New Mexico, duck breasts were pan broiled to pink perfection and the salad consisted of orange, sweet onion and ripe avocado slices gilded with an unusual vinaigrette utilizing balsamic vinegar and–surprise!!–shreds of stewed prunes and a bit of the stewing wine. Fabulous. Back to memories of Chez Georges. HG/BSK didn’t know this was Julia Child’s favorite Paris restaurant. Deservedly so. HG has joyous memories of of the many meals HG shared there with BSK over the years. Appetizers like frisee with lardons and a poached egg; jambon persille; big bowls of pickled herring passed around the tables as a “take all you want” gift. Robust main dishes: Kidneys in mustard sauce; grilled sole with butter and lemon sauce; steaks with sauce bearnaise, etc. Desserts: baba au rhum and profiteroles…Founded in 1964, Chez Georges is still going strong. Despite a change in ownership, nothing has changed according to food and Paris authority, Patricia Wells. With luck, HG might enjoy some more lusty lunches there.
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