That’s right. HG refers to cow’s (or calf’s) head. The interior (brains, tongue, cheeks) are wrapped in the calf-skin — a treat. Guidebooks warn Americans to avoid this dish (served at almost every modest bistro in Paris). Adventurous HG has never heeded this counsel. HG finds the dish lush. Don’t try to make it at home. The cooking and dismembering of the head is very complicated and is best left to a French-trained butcher. (HG doubts that many of HG’s followers are going to rush to their butchers for the heads of cows). HG has had splendid tete de veau in Paris at Le Stella brasserie. It’s good at Le Vaudeville near the Bourse. Enjoyed it at a (name forgotten) little workers bistro near the Bastille. The dish is unthinkable without a substantial amount of Sauce Gribiche. This is a sauce composed of mayonnaise, mustard, chopped parboiled eggs, capers, chopped herbs (and, sometimes, cold little boiled potatoes). HG makes this sauce at HG/BSK’s oceanfront summer home on Prince Edward Island. It is sublime topping fried hake, haddock or sole. Adds zest to poached cod or left over chicken breasts. HG gives the sauce added zing by adding a modest amount of cayenne. Food critics who like old fashioned, hearty French dishes, tout the tete de veau at a rough and ready wine bar on the right bank, Le Rubis. The Sauce Gribiche is served in gargantuan portions. Ah, yes. Next time in Paris.
Leave a Reply