HUNGRY GERALD

HG is rapidly shaking off the effects of pneumonia. It seems transatlantic flights, with their endless delays and unhealthy, enclosed environments, do not agree with the old guy’s respiratory system. However, with the excellent care of the Barrington Urgent Care Center, HG is on the mend. The illness has not impacted HG’s appetite negatively. But, there is serious alcohol limitation. One glass of wine per day. No cheating. HG/BSK have been lunching at Miku, pleasant Japanese restaurant in Barrington, R.I.. Wonderful dragon rolls (eel, cucumber, avocado). Uni is fresh from the sea urchin (you get packaged uni in most sushi bars). Nicely cut tuna and fluke sashimi. Last night, HG/BSK enjoyed a memorable concert at Beneficent Congregational Church in downtown Providence. Beautiful church with good acoustics. The event was the 2015 Advent of Unity Concert–“Sing We All Noel.” The RPM Voices of Rhode Island, a choir directed by Dr. Clarice Laverne Thompson, performed alongside some talented and rousing vocal soloists and instrumentalists. Dr. Thompson is extraordinary. This is an inclusive, diverse, amateur choir. HG/BSK’s beloved daughter, Lesley R., is a member of the choir. Dr. Thompson brings forth from the group religious music that breaks the boundaries of sectarianism. It is pure love and warmth. HG, a card carrying atheist, felt himself illuminated. What, a wonderful antidote to the horrors of misguided religious fanaticism we seem to face daily. HG/BSK, Lesley R.and family, had a post concert feast at Providence Coal Fired Pizzeria. Very good roast chicken wings. broccoli di rabe and Italian sausage. Fresh baby arugula salads. Two pizzas: Another combination of greens and sausage and a vegetarian goat cheese, mushroom and olive creation The big restaurant was filled with young people having a good time. The HG/BSK/Lesley R. family added appreciative sounds to the holiday gaiety.

HG/BSK are in Rhode Island. Daughter Lesley R., son-in-law Massimo R. and granddaughter Arianna are besieged by work and academic pressures. (Lesley is also rehearsing with a gospel choir for a forthcoming holiday concert). So, BSK is doing the cooking. Dinner is in good hands. BSK is relying upon BSK’s kitchen classics — “Green soup”, a savory puree of broccoli, parsley and assorted greens; chicken curry; mapo tofu. These are dishes that span cultures and continents. They are welcome at the end of chilly December days. Massimo has enriched the cuisine by bringing home excellent prosciutto di Parma and ripe cheeses from an Italian grocery shop. When workloads lessen, HG is looking forward to oyster (and little neck clam) feasts at Hemenway’s in Providence and the Bristol Oyster Bar in Bristol. See how the Rhody bivalves compare to the wonders HG devoured in Reims recently. HG is sure the Rhody clams will be outstanding (HG has never had a tasty French clam. French bivalve cultivation genius has focused on the oyster). While in Rhode Island, HG will be sure to eat plenty of the Rhody specialty: Fried squid with hot peppers. The squid hauled in off Port Judith are incomparable.

All of HG/BSK’s French dining has been done in Paris during numerous visits beginning in 1967. Still love eating there though prices keep moving upwards, good brasseries have virtually disappeared and homey bistros are becoming a rarity. After spending a week dining in Reims and its immediate vicinity, HG has come to a number of conclusions, some surprising. The oysters at Boulingrin (two visits) and Le Bocal (one visit) are better than any oysters HG has ever slurped (BSK agrees). Proximity to Normandy and other oyster regions? Le Bocal is better (and much cheaper) than any seafood restaurant in Paris. Anna-S is as good as most of the new cutting edge bistros in Paris (most helmed by young Japanese chefs). Some Reims dishes are outshone by their Paris counterparts. Rare roast duck breast at Le Madelon is far inferior to the version served by Chez Georges in Paris. Boulingrin’s skate with capers doesn’t compare to the version served by Rech in Paris. Oddly, cheese in Reims is not great. In one restaurant HG had to send back a round of St. Marcellin. Ice cold and as hard as a hockey puck. A camembert bought at a cheese shop disappointed. The bread and rolls served in Reims restaurants are very good, better than Paris. HG has never had a great choucroute in Paris. The choucroute (a huge, lavish affair HG spied at a neighboring table at Boulingrin) looked like a class act. Will have it if good fortune brings HG back to Reims. If you did not have enough reasons already to want to visit Reims, then here is another: champagne. Reims is in the heart of champagne country and cafes and restaurants offer a staggering array of bubbly ambrosia, many from small local vineyards which one will never see in the US. Lots of splendid bottles priced at 30 Euros. HG/BSK drank some very good champagne for 7 Euros a glass (a very generous pour) in a charming cafe. A pleasant cocktail hour.

Some pleasant news for a change. The beloved Bialy is making a comeback (at least in New York, although they never really traveled beyond that city’s borders). The Bialy (full name is “Bialyostoker kuchen”) is a roll with an onion flavor (plus some fried onions clinging to the surface) and a chew like the crust of a very good pizza. It was created by Jews toward the end of the 19th century in the Polish city of Bialyostok. Jewish immigrants brought it to New York’s lower east side at the turn of the century and it quickly became a New York staple. For many decades, New York’s Jewish and non-Jewish working population started their day fueled by coffee and a “Bialy with a shmear (cream cheese).” Sadly, true bialys virtually disappeared a few years ago. Now, it’s back. Kossar’s, once the only reliable bialy source in New York (founded in 1936), closed but will reopen this year at a new and expanded space on Grand Street. Meanwhile (according to Jewish food authority Leah Koenig), Hot Bread Kitchen is selling good bialys at various food markets. In Brooklyn, Shelsky’s (the appetizing store) and Mile End (the delicatessen) are offering authentic bialys. Bagels, of course, are now universal. Horrors like chocolate chip bagels and blueberry bagels can be found at every supermarket. Of course, these bear no resemblance to the old fashioned boiled and then baked New York bagel. HG was never fond of bagels, either those of yesteryear or today’s aberrations. Always loved bialys. Kossar’s promises a revamped website for efficient ordering of bialys online. Happy news.

It can’t be a true Thanksgiving celebration without turkey. The HG/BSK/RIVA family ate excellent pork loin on Thanksgiving Day in the beautiful French city of Reims. Very good but it didn’t provide the ambience of tradition provided by the noble bird. Not to worry. The family had Thanksgiving Redux a day after arriving in Rhode Island (following the usual exhausting air journey of delays, uncomfortable seating, vile food, etc.). And, the festive meal took no more effort than the judicious use of the oven and microwave. The Rivas’ good friends and neighbors in their town of Riverside, R.I., are Ivan and Diane. They are both doctors serving the medical needs of the poor and homeless. Diane is a splendid cook. Ivan is a vegetarian but not an ascetic. He is a collector of Scotch single malt whiskys (He once gave HG a tasting of flights of these extraordinary spirits). Diane left a total Thanksgiving meal in the Riva kitchen: Turkey (of course); dressing; gravy; Brussels sprouts; cranberry sauce; a puree of carrots and ginger; haricots vert enhanced with sour cherries; crusty roast potatoes. Arianna’s friend, Jake (a student at Johnson and Wales) baked a pumpkin pie for dessert. Wonderful homecoming meal. Much to be thankful for.