HUNGRY GERALD

Bright sun. Soft breeze chasing away mosquitoes. Sea waters warm with gentle waves. Perfect for swimming. HG’s family was off to various beaches while HG unfolded a beach chair on the secluded patch of beach in front of the HG/BSK home. Solitude allowed HG a naturist day. The mature chap swam, sunned and read without the benefit of a bathing suit. Between swims HG read Inventing a Nation: Washington, Adams, Jefferson by Gore Vidal. The title is a bit misleading since Vidal spells out the role of two other illustrious Americans, James Madison and Alexander Hamilton, in the “invention” of the United States. The book is slender but very illuminating, written with Vidal’s usual brio and containing many mordant comments about the lamentable state of politics and government in the land of the free and the brave. HG was struck by the fact that the ongoing battle between two factions–the “states rights”/anti-strong central government faction and the Federalist/strong central government faction–began at the very inception of our republic. The present day Tea Party is just a modern manifestation of a very old trend. Reading the book, HG was reminded that our founding fathers were not only brave (if the American revolution failed they would swing from English gallows) but remarkably erudite. They could think and they could write. Yes, we’ve slid downhill. Intellectually stimulated and physically relaxed, HG was ready for some big time feasting as dinner approached. Equipped with a sturdy glass of ice and Myriad Strait Gin (a flavorful spirit distilled on Prince Edward Island at the Myriad View Distillery) listened to Bill Evans jazz as Exquisite Maiko and Lesley R. prepared dinner. First, there were cups of SJ’s hearty haddock chowder (left over from an SJ-hosted dinner the previous night). This was followed by what could only be called Magic Time. EM served her unique scallop pancakes (scallops, cabbage, onions, flour, etc.). Crisp, juicy wonders. These were showered with bonito flakes and adorned with squirts of Japanese mayonnaise or Bulldog sauce (a semi-sweet Japanese condiment). There was more. EM flattened slices of pork tenderloin, dipped them in beaten egg and Panko, fried them in peanut oil. Yes, this is Tonkatsu, an HG piggy favorite. Greaseless and crackling crisp. HG likes them with Frank’s Hot and Sweet Chili Sauce and Matouk’s fiery West Indian Hot Sauce. EM prepared a big bowl of cabbage slaw, a slaw mixed with sesame oil, lemon juice, etc. Marvelous. But, impossible to reproduce because it is dependent on EM’s knife skills which EM utilizes to cut a head of cabbage into thread like filaments. Lesley R. backed up the slaw with an exuberant salad of sliced cherry tomatoes, sweet onion and basil dressed with good olive oil. Later, there was poker and for HG (who hates games) there was brandy with Peychaud’s Bitters. A perfect day.

Birthday dinner for Gifted Daughter Lesley R. (looking particularly radiant) and the clan gathered at Terre Rouge Bistro in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. While completely delicious, the meal was an affront to the heath police and cardiology guardians. Featured were artery cloggers like roasted marrow bones, pork bellies, pate, ham, compound butter, macaroni and cheese. The birthday lady, who received gracefully some gifts, stuck to PEI sea bounty–scallops and mussels. BSK surprised HG. Usually, BSK denies the truism that fat is flavor. Does not eat chicken skin. Trims fat from pork chops, prosciutto, etc. But, on this festive night BSK ate with hearty appetite a very robust dish of pork bellies. Didn’t leave a sliver of fat. Of course, BSK’s appetite was tepid compared to that of Handsome Haru. Fresh from a vigorous day at tennis camp, HH attacked the shared plates with an enthusiasm that was a tribute to his HG lineage. Teru, the wee bundle of cuteness, was at the table for almost two and a half hours and maintained perfect aplomb. Found a special treat: A very good cherry jam condiment. The meal ended with an interesting creme brûlée and a variety of gelatos. Much fun. But, HG is going to heed Tony Soprano’s advice to a chubby colleague: Time to stick to salads.

Hooray!! At last. A sunny beach afternoon. Walking, swimming, lounging, wading, playing with the adorable dog companions—Toby and Pip. All beach activities contained special delight following days of Prince Edward Island rain and grey skies. Dinner was a mad delight. Six noisy kids. Nine ravenous adults. SJ and Exquisite Maiko were in charge of cuisine. The northeast coast classic: Lobster rolls. Plus, EM’s beautifully composed shrimp and avocado salad and Lesley R.’s tomato salad. SJ barbecued baby back ribs. Their brown sugar rub went up in flames creating a dense, salty char. SJ, a barbecue perfectionist, was distressed. HG loved them and they were gobbled up by an appreciative crew. Responsive to a range of food likes and dislikes, SJ was busy barbecuing steak, hamburgers and sausages plus boiling corn. The kids made noise and chomped away. The adults were a shade more restrained as tequila, vodka, white wine, red wine, beer, ale flowed in abandon. HG concluded: This is what summer is all about. Avoid restraint, quiet and delicate dining. Just have fun. (Of course, it’s very helpful to have Sj and EM acting as your caterers).

There is something very heartening about dining on food you’ve planted, harvested or caught. There is nowhere better to do this type of foraging than Prince Edward Island. There, abundance describes “found foods”. On yesterday’s grey Prince Edward Island morning, SJ, Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia and Handsome Haru drove to a harbor near Panmure Island and fished for mackerel. Garnered a dozen gleaming beauties. Later in the day, HG/BSK, Exquisite Maiko, darling little Teru joined them at Noel and Yossi M.’s nearby home. They were greeted by the baa-baa sounds of three adorable sheep (much admired by Teru). After examining the lettuce crop, the cherry trees and unearthing a gigantic horseradish root, the group was off to gather quahogs (hard shelled clams) from the shore of St. Mary’s Bay. Some of the group dug into the shoreline with clam rakes. HG/BSK, veterans of many years of clam hunting in Long Island’s Great South Bay off Fire Island, simply wriggled their toes in the muddy shore bottom. The seasoned HG/BSK toes could feel the difference, when they hit a hard object, if it was a clam or a rock. The collective effort produced some 30 clams. Tea and butter tarts at the M. residence. Back home with the catch the group was met by Adam S. (noted composer, Academy Award Nominee and founder of the power pop group Fountains of Wayne and SJ’s close friend since infancy). With Adam were his two young daughters; sister Laurie and her son and daughter, Handsome Haru acted as host of the younger set and took them off to explore bluffs and beach. The elders devoted themselves to vodka, tequila, white wine and laughter. EM got busy with mackerel. Fileted the fish with her usual expertise and saved some of them (preserved with salt) for later grilling For dinner, EM chopped some filets for her superb tataki and marinated some slices with onions and cherry tomatoes. A fabulous way to start dinner. The rest of the folk got busy with clams, scrubbing them clean, steaming and then chopping the big clams and cooking the smaller ones in a savory sofrito of clam juice, white wine, garlic and parsley. The sauce and clams adorned Garofalo linguine which the table of nine adults consumed with gusto. The younger set dined at the sun porch table on penne with oil, garlic and parmesan. Many happy and loud sounds were heard from that vicinity. The adult table was quieter but equally joyous. A glorious sunset added to the merriment.

Dinner was surf and turf (HG family style). “Turf” consisted of thin slices of pork belly –another savory performance by Exquisite Maiko. The pork bellies were sliced into bite size portions and tossed into a very hot black cast iron pan. A loud sizzle as the pork crisped and released much fat. Dried on paper towels, the pork went on a platter and was covered with chopped scallions mixed with sesame oil, lemon juice and salt. Perfect combination with the rich, crisp piggy. Pork bellies are versatile and inexpensive (HG likes to cook them Chinese style, glazed with honey, oyster sauce and hot mustard). Pork bellies are rarely found in New Mexico (where HG/BSK live) but are found in the meat section of every Prince Edward Island grocery. The “surf” was linguine with white clam sauce. The linguine was the Garofalo brand. In HG’s opinion, this is the best packaged pasta. (Even better than beloved De Cecco). Rarely found in the United States, HG/BSK stock up with numerous Garofalo shapes from Sobey’s Supermarket. The clam sauce dish was a collaboration between BSK, Lesley and Massimo R. BSK created the flavorful sofrito, using good clam juice, white wine, garlic, parsley and the broth resulting from the steaming of two dozen small quahogs. Lesley R. did much sous chef chopping of all the ingredients (Massimo R. assisted in the clam chopping). Massimo R. trained his vigilant and discerning Italian gaze on the pasta. Italians consider soft, overdone pasta a criminal assault on the taste buds. Massimo always aims to produce pasta that is “al dente”, that has a slight snap as it is chewed. This evening, Massimo R. hit the bullseye. Pasta perfection, a happy partner of the sea kissed sauce. The four cooks who prepared this great meal did so with grace and ease. HG paid tribute. HG ate a lot.

Happy Birthday. Have many more. Continue to enlighten, illuminate and amuse with inimitable Box Cox prose. Bob Cox is HG/BSK’s friend. They met in Colorado when Bob was a columnist and publisher of weekly newspapers. He was a very positive force in the Jefferson County community and his columns were witty and sharp political thrusts. Bob sold the papers some time ago and settled in Abiquiu, New Mexico (not far from Georgia O Keefe’s former home). Unlike HG, Bob takes a minimal interest in cuisine. He reserves his passions for political comment, the outdoors and horses. Though a bit too rickety these days for equestrianism, HG shares Bob’s affection for horses. During the years when HG/BSK lived on their Colorado mountain ranch, HG spent hours each day on horseback, riding through forests and admiring endless views from mountain slopes. HG can get quite sentimental remembering HG’s favorite mounts, Peaches and Twist. Bob is still writing (HG believes there is a novel in the works) and a good way, to become acquainted with his talent is to log into his blog oldgringosgazette.com. Recently, Bob did a very moving piece on the final days of a 35-year-old horse. Even if you’ve never been on a horse’s back you’ll enjoy the eloquence and emotion of Bob’s prose. At the same time, Bob skewered that eminent hypocrite, Jeb Bush. So, log into the Old Gringo and become acquainted with a singularly human and insightful writer.