The Providence, R.I., area has become one of the great culinary destinations in the United States. In previous posts, HG has lauded the joyous Los Andes restaurant and the down to earth Blount Clam Shack. (Splendid cooking is always provided by Gifted Daughter Lesley R. at her home. But, of course, this is only available for fortunate family and friends). Before leaving for Prince Edward Island, HG/BSK, Lesley and Brilliant Granddaughter Arianna R., dined at Metacom Kitchen in Warren, a town that’s a short drive from Providence. Metacom offers a cuisine that utilizes the flavors and spices of many cultures—Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, etc. Every ingredient in a Metaom dish is fresh, seasonal and treated with respect; a respect tempered by a creativity that makes it memorable. Here are some of the things the happy quartet tasted: Freshly shucked oysters on the half shell nestled on an excellent Japanese seaweed salad. Usually, HG prefers oysters to be served au naturel. No sauce. For HG, the natural brine is enough. But, at Metacam the oysters were served with a light lemongrass sauce that enhanced but did not overpower the oysters. This was followed by plump mussels, steamed in an inventive broth of green curry, zucchini, dry vermouth. Poached cherry tomatoes added a dash of color. The extraordinary broth was soaked up by squares of house baked focaccia and an herbal compound butter. Then some dishes were variations on Italian themes. Feather light polenta gnocchi in a sauce of shredded, braised veal breast; young turnips, pea greens and pecorino romano cheese. Porchetta with a tonatto sauce. Earthy tagliatelle with shredded duck confit and porcini mushrooms. There was a shift to a French Provencal specialty: Crisp fried rectangles of chickpeas with aioli. There were two conventional but perfectly prepared dishes: MK Burger, with sharp cheddar, lettuce, tomato, aioli and chickpea fries. Roasted black sea bass with couscous. Desserts were lush. Green apple cobbler with creme anglais, Marcona almonds and vanilla ice cream; creme brûlée; cheesecake with a spiced pistachio crust. Two very good Italian wines were served (both specials that evening)–a Pinot Grigio and a Sangiovese. Service was by a charming young woman. Prices were modest. Decor was soothing and contemporary. Metacom is everything a modern American restaurant should be.
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