Many, many decades ago when HG was a young New York journalist, HG would join a raffish crowd of late night drinkers at Moe Dubiner’s bar/restaurant on Stanton Street (years before the Lower East Side became cool and trendy). The cuisine was Eastern European Jewish, relished alike by the Irish policemen and the Jewish mob guys and bail bondsmen who made the joint their hangout. HG’s nocturnal snack at Dubiner’s was a big plate of gefilte fish (for the unknowing–this is a type of robust quenelle of minced whitefish and carp poached in fish broth) accompanied by challah, rye bread, pickles and copious amounts of very strong horseradish. Four Roses rye whiskey and beer chasers. These tastes of yesteryear have, thankfully, been rediscovered. Kedem Gourmet Gefilte Fish from Israel (available at Whole Foods) is the real thing. As the label says: “No MSG. No egg yolk. No matzo meal.” The Kedem product has the right density and no sweetness. Its appropriate companion is Lou’s Famous Organic Horseradish. Most bottled horseradish is insipid and tasteless. Not Lou’s. This is powerful stuff with a real bite that must be used with a degree of caution. Clears the sinuses and makes HG feel young again.
I’ve been missing Hungry Gerald, but I’m back aboard, and ready to be upgraded in the pleasures of the table by HG…..
Log into the archive…the HG post (a few weeks ago) on seders of yesteryear might amuse you…
Yum and yay! SOunds great – have you discovered The Gefilteria? They are in NY and have gefilte fish, salmon loaf, horseradish sauce. And if someone is VERY lucky, he will be getting a bunch of it when someone very special comes to visit at the end of May. XXOO
CAN…..HARDLY……WAIT.
Cooks use the terms “horseradish” or “prepared horseradish” to refer to the grated root of the horseradish plant mixed with vinegar. Prepared horseradish is white to creamy-beige in colour. It will keep for months refrigerated but eventually will darken, indicating it is losing flavour and should be replaced. The leaves of the plant, while edible, are not commonly eaten, and are referred to as “horseradish greens”.:
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My mother grew up on the East Side and fondly remembers her father’s favorite restaurant, Dubiner’s. Would you happen to recall the address/cross streets or have any photographs of the place? I am searching the NYC Municipal 1940 Tax Photo site but nothing coming up.
Love this site!
It was on Stanton St. The proprietor was Moe Dubiner. Gefilte fish was supreme.