Seems odd, but at one time New York had more German restaurants than Italian restaurants. In terms of time, the ubiquitous pizza joint is a fairly recent trend. Yorkville, the traditional German neighborhood in the East 70s and 80s (bordered by Lexington Avenue), had lots of German dining spots that fit all budgets. Despite World War Two and the Nazi-loving German American Bund (headquartered in Yorkville and run by the thuggish Fritz Kuhn), New York’s many German eateries flourished well into the 60’s. Luchow’s, of course, was one of the city’s greatest restaurants and did honor to the best traditions of German cuisine, wine and beer.
A particular HG favorite was the Blue Ribbon in the West 40’s, much favored by journalists. HG often lunched on steak tartare (better than any served in Paris then and now), kassler ripchen (smoked pork chops) and grilled bratwurst. The home fries were incomparable. After a boxing match, basketball game or hockey tussle at the old Madison Square Garden (then located at 50th and 8th Avenue), HG and buddies would gorge on the Blue Ribbon’s huge apple pancake (bigger than the biggest pizza) washed down with dark German beer.
The demise of German restaurants in New York, HG opines, had more to do with changed eating habits than politics. Cholesterol fear trumped anti-Nazi sentiments. What remains of German food glory is the great German pork, sausage and cured meat emporium, Schaller and Weber, located on Second Avenue and 85th Street. If you can’t get there order online and enjoy some of the best wintry treats. Oompah.
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