HUNGRY GERALD

Irish cuisine has never been noted for its gourmet quality. Of course,with the Celtic Tiger growling, cuisine,I gather, reached some very attractive heights. Don’t know what has happened since the Tiger has become a sickly Pussycat dependent on the kindness of strangers. Which brings me to the New York Irish saloons I frequented during my 1950’s carer as a journalist. Every Irish saloon served robust food to its clientele (admittedly more interested in alcohol than victuals.)  The bill of fare consisted of hard boiled eggs,pickled pig knuckles and corned beef and cabbage (this was the signature dish that confirmed the gin joint’s reputation.) One saloon,however, did achieve distinction in the kitchen with one dish. Because of it Conolly’s on Third Avenue and 23rd Street was always filled with cops,firemen,transit workers,steamfitters,longshoremen and impecunious journalists like Hungry Gerald. The dish was a pot roast sandwich on rye. The tender,juicy slices of roast were soaked in a rich, brown gravy. A bowl of the gravy was provided for dipping. As a bow to healthy eating a vegetable–a sour dill pickle–was provided. Accompanied by a bottle of Ballantine’s India Pale Ale one was in Gaelic heaven. Fie upon those who have described a seven course Irish banquet as a six pack and a potato.

It seems the French subsist on more than foie gras and teeny,tiny birds. Jacques Pepin the esteemed French chef and cookbook author (he once collaborated with Julia Child of sainted memory) has written:”I find the taste of hominy addictive. I always keep a few cans in my pantry.” Pepin suggests a hominy and corn chowder. He sautes onion,garlic and scallions in olive oil. Adds a can of tomatoes, Some extra hot salsa, dried thyme,cumin,a bit of cinnamon.Pops in a can of hominy. Brings it to a boil and cooks for 18 minutes before finishing it with corn kernels qnd chopped cilantro. Here in Santa Fe County we call hominy posole and HG takes a more Mexican approach. Saute ground pork with garlic and chopped onion. Dust it with generous shakes of Goya Adobo seasoning. Add some canned mild and hot jalapeno peppers, a can of posole and chicken broth. Heat to your liking. Serve with sides of sliced avocado,chopped onion,chopped cilantro,lime wedges and dried Mexican oregano. Proper accompaniments include warm,buttered tortillas; 100% agave tequila and dark beer. Viva and L’Chajm !!

Sweet potatoes are good as fries and this has given them new stature in the kitchens of food obsessives. Peter Hellman commented on HG’s recent post “Sweets and Mickeys.” Peter says Whole Foods in his Manhattan/West 97th and Broadway neighborhood now carries heirloom sweet potatoes. Virtuous Peter roasts them. Sometimes with a scrape of brown sugar or a pinch of cumin. No fat. He calls them the perfect winter food. A Hellman (no connection with the excellent mayonnaise) endorsement is big time. He is one of the country’s leading wine experts (wine columnist for the late lamented New York Sun and frequent contributor to Wine Spectator). He is just as discerning about food. However,drinking wine with Peter is a chore. He takes very tiny sips..rarely more than one or two. Essentially,it seems to me, he just likes to taste wine (albeit with a very refined palate). HG,on the other hand,like to drink wine. An understatement. HG likes to guzzle wine,swill wine,behave like Bacchus at an orgy. Somewhere there is a shining model of moderation. HG has never found it. (He has never looked too hard). Getting back to Peter: He is a remarkable writer/journalist,author of some eight books. What gives him particular distinction is his ability to write gracefully about human pleasures (like wine and music) while doing carefully researched and penetrating studies of some of the horrors of the 20th century. Witness his books “When Courage Was Stronger Than Fear” (moving and hopeful about the better angels of our nature) and “The  Auschwitz Album” (a look into man-made hell). Long may he write….and sip.